Maytag Washer Parts
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Popular Maytag Washer Parts
Your Price
$39.84
Belt Kit
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2005284
Manufacturer Part Number 12112425
This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both V-shaped. If your washer does not toss, spin, or drain water properly, this might be because one of these belts has worn or stretched out. This results in the belt losing its grip and no longer driving the pump. The pump belt is black and made of rubber. The pump belt is located between the motor and pump underneath the washer. Simply remove the belt and hook the new one around the pulley. You may need to loosen or tighten the belt to ensure it is set in place properly.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Leaking
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Charles from Whitman, MA
Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes. Read more...
Your Price
$7.68
Hose Clamp
PartSelect Number PS11743008
Manufacturer Part Number WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
jeff from lindenhurst, IL
Washing Machine was leaking water
Loosened the hose clamp, removed the injector valve and injector nozzle assembly, replaced both and tightened with new hose clamp. Fixed the problem for less than $20!! Washing machine is 20 years old and this was the first problem--hopefully it is now good for another 20 years!
Read more...
Your Price
$53.84
Washer Drive Pulley
PartSelect Number PS10057144
Manufacturer Part Number W10721967
This is a replacement clutch assembly or cam kit for your washer. The clutch assembly is mounted on the drive shaft on the bottom of your washer. You may need to replace the clutch assembly if the splines on the clutch assembly are stripped and the washer is making noise, or if you are having problems with the wash and spin cycles. You will need to access the bottom of the washer for this repair. It is easiest to if you disconnect your washer from both the water and power source, and lay it on its back. The clutch assembly contains 6 parts, and all are included with the kit. It is also important to change out the entire assembly, rather than individual pieces.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Spins slowly
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jerry from WALLA WALLA, WA
Noise on bottom of Washer louder as time went on. 1 1/2 years
Well, first investigated and found loose nut on drive clutch. First take off the two screws with nut drive then cover off using a screwdriver blade to snap off the cover. Then socket ratchet to take off the nut on drive clutch. take off belt by slowly rotating the drive gear. two screws that hold the electronics to the upper drive clutch and put aside, so you can snap off the cover for drive clutch on upper part with screwdriver and off the parts come and install whole unit back as took it apart. Line up the new upper clutch so that is position as was before. (Using parts diagram helps a lot as www. partsselect.com has for you or Maytag.com.) Then put the electronic part board back on and the gear and nut. Make sure it is tight by several attempts to make sure it's snugged up good and then slowly roll belt back on the pulley and motor drive. Put your cover guard back on with two screws and done.
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Your Price
$10.72
Hose Clamp
PartSelect Number PS11740613
Manufacturer Part Number WP285655
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Laveen, AZ
Drive Pump Leaked
It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project. 1. Take the front covers off. 2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt 3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel. 4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses. 5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4) 6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor. 7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft. 8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned. 9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes. 10. Attach the belt and test the pump. 11. Put the front back on.
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Your Price
$4.76
Suspension Spring
First I disconnected the washer from the water and power supply, then I laid it on its back.
The tub rested on the back of the washer, making two of the three suspension springs relax, and they were pretty easy to pull out with pliers. After the first two were out, I had to support the tub with a couple 2x4s to relax the third suspension spring.
Installation was the reverse of removal - install the lower suspension spring, remove the 2x4s, then install the two other suspension springs.
The tub balancing spring was easy to replace, and probably wasn't the cause of the problem.
With $25 in parts and about 15 minutes, my washer spins much more quietly. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11743345
Manufacturer Part Number WP63907
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could cause the load to be off-balance which can lead to excessive shaking, moving, noise, and leaks. For this repair, you will need a 1/4 nut driver, a putty knife, a flat blade screwdriver, and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power supply, fill hoses, and drain hose to give you safe and easy access (have a container nearby for water left in drain hose). This item is sold individually, which is important as you may need to repair multiple springs in your appliance, which carries three suspension springs. As an inexpensive part, we recommend purchasing several at a time, as they can be very useful to have on-hand.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Shaking and Moving
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Brian from Seattle, WA
Washer tub slammed into washer body during spin cycle
If you load a washing machine unevenly, it will spin out of balance. But our washer seemed to make noise during the spin cycle regardless of how the load was distributed. I suspected that the suspension or balancing springs were getting tired, and ordered a replacement set.First I disconnected the washer from the water and power supply, then I laid it on its back.
The tub rested on the back of the washer, making two of the three suspension springs relax, and they were pretty easy to pull out with pliers. After the first two were out, I had to support the tub with a couple 2x4s to relax the third suspension spring.
Installation was the reverse of removal - install the lower suspension spring, remove the 2x4s, then install the two other suspension springs.
The tub balancing spring was easy to replace, and probably wasn't the cause of the problem.
With $25 in parts and about 15 minutes, my washer spins much more quietly. Read more...
Your Price
$53.69
Tub Bearing Kit
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2347235
Manufacturer Part Number 6-2040130
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is not spinning. The tub bearing kit is fastened in the middle of the outer tub of your washer. The tub bearing ensures the inner tub is spinning effortlessly. If the rub bearing is faulty it might lock up and cause the washer to stop spinning. This is an OEM part that is obtained straight from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Dan from Mason, OH
Washer Leaking and Spin Cycle stopping frequenly
* Remove front Panel* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK Read more...
Your Price
$103.34
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
PartSelect Number PS2351899
Manufacturer Part Number 6-2095720
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and will need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
douglas from bonita springs, FL
water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag washers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
Read more...
Your Price
$50.60
Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect Number PS1583805
Manufacturer Part Number 205613
This is a water inlet valve which is used in washing machines. The valve controls and monitors the flow of water into the washer. It has a multi-mount bracket and outlet adaptor. The tools needed for this repair are: a 5/16 nut driver, 1/4 nut driver, and a small flat blade screwdriver. If cold water does not flow into washer, or the washing machine will not fill with hot water, replacing the valve can be the solution. To gain access to the water valve, locate the back of the washer and remove the hot and cold hoses, as well as the whole assembly. Next, remove the four wires and loosen up the clamp. After removing the old valve, replace it with the new one and reconnect the wires and hose. Remember to disconnect the washer from the power source before starting this project.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- No hot or cold water
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Brian from El Cajon, CA
Cold water valve only opened to a trickle
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outlet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.
Read more...
Your Price
$22.88
Lid Switch
PartSelect Number PS11723153
Manufacturer Part Number W10820036
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
Fixes these symptoms
- Will not agitate
- Will not drain
- Will not shut off
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Peter from Westbury, NY
washer would not start
To see if the lid switch was the problem I first jumped it out and tried to start the washer. That was the problem. I removed the main controll so I could get to the lid switch. I made the mistake of removing the screws all the way out and the metal clip fell into the body of the washer, no problem since I was changing the drive beld anyway. I realized that you do not remove the screws all the way out, you just have to loosen them and then slide out the lid switch & then replace it.
Read more...
Your Price
$20.59
Rubber Injector Valve
PartSelect Number PS11738945
Manufacturer Part Number WP216201
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle. It is black in color and measures approximately 2 inches in length. To access this part, you will need to remove the front panel of your washer. There will be 2 screws holding it in place. Once these have been removed, the top will pivot to open, which will give you access to the injector assembly. This is an OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Catherine from Wyandotte, MI
Front load washing machine leaking on floor while in fill mode.
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel and then removed front panel. Then removed two self-tapping bolts (one on each side) holding top panel in place and swung the panel up, out of the way, to expose top of tub and water injection components. Cut off one pinch clamp and loosened screw clamp holding two injector hoses to the injector sleeve. Removed these water injector hoses from injector sleeve assembly which is mounted on top of left side panel upper flange. Replaced deteriorated rubber injector valve, nozzle and the sleeve for the injector (plastic housing containing the injector valve and nozzle). Also replaced deteriorated injector tube seal where injector tube elbow mounts to top of tub assembly. Reinstalled injector hoses with a replacement screw clamp to replace the one cut off. tightened the new clamp and the other, original, screw clamp and checked for leaks. This solved the leakage problem. Secured top panel and re-installed front panel. Hardest part of the task was determining where the leak emanated from but once found and parts ordered, it was a relative snap to fix.
Read more...
Appliance Type
Related Parts
- Maytag Washer Agitators
- Maytag Washer Bearings
- Maytag Washer Belts
- Maytag Washer Brackets and Flanges
- Maytag Washer Caps and Lids
- Maytag Washer Circuit Boards and Touch Pads
- Maytag Washer Dispensers
- Maytag Washer Drums and Tubs
- Maytag Washer Filters
- Maytag Washer Handles
- Maytag Washer Hardware
- Maytag Washer Hinges
- Maytag Washer Hoses and Tubes
- Maytag Washer Knobs
- Maytag Washer Latches
- Maytag Washer Legs and Foots
- Maytag Washer Motors
- Maytag Washer Panels
- Maytag Washer Power Cords
- Maytag Washer Pulleys
- Maytag Washer Pumps
- Maytag Washer Seals and Gaskets
- Maytag Washer Springs and Shock Absorbers
- Maytag Washer Switches
- Maytag Washer Timers
- Maytag Washer Transmissions and Clutchs
- Maytag Washer Valves
- Maytag Washer Wire Plugs and Connectors
Popular Maytag Washer Models
Below are the most popular Maytag Washer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- MAH5500BWW Residential
- MAH8700AWW Residential
- MVWX655DW1 WASHER
- MAH2400AWW Residential
- PAV2300AWW Residential
- MAH4000AWW Residential
- MAH6500AWW Residential
- MAH6700AWW Residential
- MVWX655DW0 WASHER
- MAH3000AWW Residential
- MHWE200XW00 AUTOMATIC WASHER
- FAV6800AWW Residential
- LAT9416AAE Residential
- MAV7600AWW Residential
- MVWC416FW0 WASHER
- MVWB835DW4
- MVWB835DW0 WASHER
- MVWB765FW3
- MHWE201YW00 AUTOMATIC WASHER
- MFW9800TQ0 Residential
