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Popular Snapper Parts
Your Price
$9.62
In Stock
Snapper Engine Fuel Filter
PartSelect Number PS9285148
Manufacturer Part Number 530095646
This Genuine OEM fuel filter is designed to maintain the performance and longevity of your equipment by preventing dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Located inside the fuel tank, this essential component ensures clean fuel delivery, protecting the engine from potential damage caused by contaminants. Sold individually, the filter is built to meet original equipment standards for fit and function. Over time, the filter may become clogged, restricting fuel flow and making engine starts more difficult. For optimal performance, it should be replaced—not cleaned—at the first sign of blockage or wear.
Fixes these symptoms
- Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY
Deterioration of fuel line system
Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark
Read more...
Your Price
$34.74
In Stock
Snapper Mulching Blade
PartSelect Number PS9169783
Manufacturer Part Number 942-0741A
This authentic replacement blade is manufactured for use with Craftsman walk-behind lawnmowers and is designed to deliver clean, efficient cuts. Measuring 21 inches in length, the blade features an angled design that promotes optimal airflow, allowing grass clippings to circulate through the cutting deck for effective side discharge and mulching. Over time, mower blades can dull or wear down, leading to torn grass blades and a less polished lawn appearance. Replacing a worn blade with this high-quality part ensures a sharper, cleaner cut that keeps your lawn looking its best. This blade is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Mower blade does not cut
- See more...
Your Price
$58.89
In Stock
Snapper Grass Catcher Frame Assembly
PartSelect Number PS9988561
Manufacturer Part Number 647-04271-0637
Are you tired of a disorganized freezer? We've got the perfect solution for you - a genuine LG Tray Assembly, Drawer. Crafted with impeccable precision, this tray assembly helps breathe new life into your freezer by making it clutter-free and thoroughly organized. Constructed to boost the efficiency of your freezing system, this assembly might come with several components to ensure your appliance?s peak performance. You can easily identify all the items included in this assembly by referring to your parts diagram. For a straightforward assembly, simply follow the instructions from your owner?s manual. When it comes to installation, you won?t experience any hitches - every step has been made as user-friendly as possible. By choosing an authentic LG part, you're guaranteed exceptional compatibility and durability, because who better to trust for your LG appliance than LG itself. To ensure this is the perfect match for your model, however, please double-check before making your purchase. In a nutshell, our aim with this LG Tray Assembly, Drawer is to effectively solve the problem of your messy freezer, so you can get back to cooking and enjoying your food in record time. Discover the joy of an organized freezer today!
Your Price
$11.28
In Stock
Snapper Spark Plug
PartSelect Number PS8996057
Manufacturer Part Number 503235111
Compatible with over 150 models of lawn equipment, this Spark Plug has been sourced directly from the original manufacturer. It is sold individually, made of metal and ceramic components, and is not part of a kit or assembly. The spark plug is used to ignite the air-fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber.
You may need to replace the Spark Plug if your 1 cylinder engine won't start, or if your more-than-1 cylinder engine runs rough. Spark Plugs will wear over time and should be inspected regularly.
Customers rate this repair as Easy.
Your Price
$12.81
In Stock
Snapper Fuel Line (25" Length)
PartSelect Number PS9008183
Manufacturer Part Number 530069247
This 25-inch fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor, ensuring proper engine operation. Made from durable clear plastic, it is designed to withstand regular use but may become clogged or brittle over time. Replacing a worn or damaged line can help prevent leaks and restore reliable starting and performance.
Fixes these symptoms
- Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY
Deterioration of fuel line system
Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark
Read more...
Your Price
$17.55
In Stock
Snapper Purge Line
PartSelect Number PS9008180
Manufacturer Part Number 530069216
This is the Genuine Craftsman replacement part. It is made out of Flexible Rubber and is Sold Individually. The purpose of the 530069216 Tank Purge Line is to return the excess fuel that is in the carburetor after the primer bulb has been pushed. The excess fuel is forced through the purge line back into the fuel tank. Over time the Tank Purge Line will become brittle and crack and will need to be replaced.
Fixes these symptoms
- Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY
Deterioration of fuel line system
Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark
Read more...
Your Price
$26.27
In Stock
Snapper Snow Blower Drive Belt
PartSelect Number PS8891963
Manufacturer Part Number 1733324SM
This is an authentic OEM sourced driver belt, not an aftermarket equivalent. It is specially designed for a variety of snow throwers. This is the main drive belt for the unit that will spin the augers. Please make sure to check appropriate diagrams for correct location and application of this item. It is made from durable rubber material and it is sold individually. You would need a set of wrenches to complete this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Auger will not turn
- Drive system does not work
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Kenneth from ALDAN, PA
Refurbishing for next winter season
I replaced the auger belt and drive belt by separating the machine. The auger belt alone can be replaced by simply tilting without separating but the drive belt can not. So after separating the machine, I removed the auger belt by loosening the belt guide and removing the tensioner. I then loosened the nut that secures the drive wheel. This gave me enough play to remove the drive belt from the drive tensioner and then wiggle it from the drive wheel and out of the machine. Install by wiggling the belt back behind the drive wheel until you can slip it on the wheel. pull tensioner pulley out of the way to get the belt on the top pulley. Tighten the nut to secure the drive wheel. Reconnect the machine at the bottom of the auger housing and replace the auger belt, tensioner, and belt guide. Complete by replacing the upper bolts that hold the two parts together. I have not replaced the friction wheel as of yet. My process took 30 - 45 minutes for both belts.
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Your Price
$31.30
In Stock
Snapper Snow Blower Belt
PartSelect Number PS9042546
Manufacturer Part Number 585416MA
This Auger Drive Belt is an original part from Craftsman for use with Craftsman Snowblowers. The auger drive belt rotates the auger on the snowblower. The most common reason for replacing the drive belt is when the snowblower auger won't turn.This part is sold individually. Her is a list of tools that are needed to replace the auger drive belt are a 3/8 inch socket, 9/16 inch wrench, adjustable wrench and a clamp.
Fixes these symptoms
- Auger will not turn
- Will not blow snow
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Kenneth from ALDAN, PA
Refurbishing for next winter season
I replaced the auger belt and drive belt by separating the machine. The auger belt alone can be replaced by simply tilting without separating but the drive belt can not. So after separating the machine, I removed the auger belt by loosening the belt guide and removing the tensioner. I then loosened the nut that secures the drive wheel. This gave me enough play to remove the drive belt from the drive tensioner and then wiggle it from the drive wheel and out of the machine. Install by wiggling the belt back behind the drive wheel until you can slip it on the wheel. pull tensioner pulley out of the way to get the belt on the top pulley. Tighten the nut to secure the drive wheel. Reconnect the machine at the bottom of the auger housing and replace the auger belt, tensioner, and belt guide. Complete by replacing the upper bolts that hold the two parts together. I have not replaced the friction wheel as of yet. My process took 30 - 45 minutes for both belts.
Read more...
Your Price
$6.40
In Stock
Snapper Nut-flglk 5/16-18
PartSelect Number PS9092936
Manufacturer Part Number 712-04063
This nut is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for various lawn and garden equipment. It is sold individually, not as part of a kit or assembly. Also referred to as a Lock Nut, it is resistant to loosening when threaded on a bolt. It has a variety of applications and is used in multiple locations on most models. Please refer to your owners manual to determine the exact location.
While made of durable metal, the ends can round off from improper use of a wrench or socket. Depending on the location, this part may also become worn through regular use of your machine. It should be replaced when visibly cracked, worn or damaged. To complete this repair, you will need a wrench or socket, and a torque wrench. Ensure you torque the bolt according to the manufacturer recommendations.
Customers rate this repair as Easy.
Your Price
$47.98
In Stock
Snapper Upper Handle
PartSelect Number PS16424685
Manufacturer Part Number 749-05084B-0637
This replacement handle is a genuine OEM sourced part. It is specially manufactured for walk behind and push lawn mowers. Upper handle allows user to control the lawn mower. It is attached to the lower handle assembly that is sold separately. This part is made out of metal and is sold individually. Please note, the control bar, knobs and cables are all sold separately. You will need a wrench to replace this upper handle. • Disconnect the bail bar • Detach the control cable • Remove the bolts and the nuts that secure upper handle • Secure the new handle using the same hardware • Reattach the bar and the control cable
Popular Snapper Models
Below are the most popular Snapper models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- SS822E (1695880) () 22" 8Tp Single Stage Snowthrower 2010
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- 2812523BVE (7800104) Rear-Engine Riding Lawn Mower
- 3201 (86477) 20 Inch Snow Thrower, 3hp
- 3201 20" 3 Hp Single Stage Snow Thrower Series 1
- I7243 24" 7 Hp Two Stage Intermediate Snow Thrower Series 3
- I7243 (80593) 24 Inch Snow Thrower, 7hp
- SS822EX Snowblower
- SS822EX ((1696169-01)(2013)) 22-Inch 8 Gross Tp Single Stage Snowthrower
- SS822EX ((1696169-00)(2012)) 22-Inch 8tp Single Stage Snowthrower
- M1227E (1696173-02) 27-Inch 11.5tp Intermediate Snowthrower
- M1227E (1695908) () 27" 11.5Tp Two Stage Intermediate Snow Thrower
- M1227E (1696001) 27" 11.5Tp Two Stage Intermediate Snowthrower
- M1227E 27" 11.5Tp Intermediate Snowthrower
- M1227E (1695734) () 27" 11.5Tp Intermediate Snow Thrower
- ST2046 (2691202-00) 46-In. 20 Gross Hp Tractor
- SS7522E 22" 7.5Tp Single Stage Snowthrower (2012)
- SS7522E (1696168-01) 22-Inch 7.5 Gross Tp Single Stage Snowthrower