Genuine OEM Blower Parts – PartSelect.com

Engine Fuel Filter – Part Number: 530095646

Your Price

$4.99

Blower Engine Fuel Filter

★★★★★

2 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS9285148

Manufacturer Part Number 530095646

This fuel filter is for lawn and garden equipment engines. Fuel filter cleans the fuel before it reaches the carburetor. Work in a well-ventilated area when installing this part. Drain the fuel tank and disconnect the spark plug wire before beginning the repair.

Fixes these symptoms

Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
Will Not Start
See more...

Installation Instructions

Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY

Deterioration of fuel line system

Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark Read more...

Your Price

$6.62

Blower Fuel Line

★★★★★

5 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS9472280

Manufacturer Part Number 530069247

This is the replacement fuel line 25 Inch for several OPE products that use small engines. The fuel line carries fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Over time, the fuel line can become badly clogged, and it can become brittle as well. When the fuel line is badly clogged or cracked, fuel can leak out and it can make it difficult to start or run the engine. To replace the fuel line, carefully disconnect the old line from the carburetor and from the fuel grommet, then replace it with the new line. This fuel line is 25 inches in length and is made of clear plastic. The fuel line is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Fixes these symptoms

Engine stops after a few seconds or minutes
Will Not Start
See more...

Installation Instructions

Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY

Deterioration of fuel line system

Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark Read more...

Tank Purge Line – Part Number: 530069216

Your Price

$6.21

Blower Tank Purge Line

★★★★★

2 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS9472264

Manufacturer Part Number 530069216

This part is the replacement tank/purge line for your outdoor power equipment. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The tank/purge line returns excess fuel from the carburetor to the fuel tank after the primer bulb has been pushed. If the line is cracked or damaged, it can affect engine performance and will need to be replaced. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Fixes these symptoms

Will Not Start
See more...

Installation Instructions

Mark from LYNDONVILLE, NY

Deterioration of fuel line system

Removed the top cover (T25 torx), and side cover (T25 torx) with recoil starter. Drained all fuel, and removed all pieces of fuel old fuel line and the weighted filter from inside the tank by shaking out and the (long forceps). A spot headlamp makes it easier to see inside the tank for much of the procedure. Remove the foam filter to find the two 8mm nuts and remove the air filter housing and carburetor (nut driver, 8mm socket) the choke lever slides out of its slot with some wiggling and moving the carb back off the mounting studs. Leave the throttle cable attached to the filter housing and move both assemblies out of the way to access the top wall of the fuel tank. There is a cover over the carb adjust screws that wiggles out also. The fuel line and purge line both pass through the wall of the tank and need to be pulled out with some effort (long curved forceps) from inside the tank through the fuel fill port. They are a tight fit. Pay attention to the lines size and location. Large line is in the position away from the recoil starter with the little plastic fitting hanging near the top of the tank. The smaller line is closest to the recoil starter. Both new lines will need to pass through the tank wall (this is the most difficult part). To facilitate the initial entry through the wall of the tank, cut a tapered end on your new lines. Use a very slippery lube to coat the end of the line and push it into the tank as far as you can from the top (forceps or soft grip pliers) help. Look inside the tank and pull the lines through fully out of the tank fill (long curved forceps and head spot light). Don't pull all the way through the fuel fill, just enough to install the new fuel line fitting in the return purge line and the new weighted filter on the fuel line and pull the lines back inside the tank. The return line with fitting close to the top of the tank and the filter hanging so it lays at the bottom of the tank, and able to swing around so it keeps contact with fuel at all times. Remove the old purge/primer bulb two screws (Phillips). The short stem is suction, long stem is pressure. Don't mix them up and connect lines backwards, don't ask me how I know! Lol! If you have such a saw like mine, that has no fuel lines intact, it is difficult to vision the line routes. There are helpful schematics on the internet. Just remember that the purge bulb long fuel stem sends pressure back to the tank through the return line (larger line in the tank with the line fitting away from the recoil). That line can now be cut to length and pushed on the bulb long stem. The suction side of the bulb short stem, connects to the purge line on the side of the carburetor (short line). You need to cut that line to the same length as the old one. It has to curve twice to get to the suction side of the purge bulb without kinking. The only other line left is the fuel line with the filter attached hanging inside the tank. Be sure you have the filter able to lay on the floor of the tank and move around. That line connects to the carburetor opposit side from the purge bulb. Dont cut that one until the carb is installed for proper length. The fuel routes from that filtered line into the carb, then out of the carb to the purge bulb suction side, then out to the return line in the tank with the fitting end. That fitting installed into the line serves only to keep the line from pulling back out of the tank, nothing attaches to it. Make sure all lines are clear of the mounting area of the carb, and throttle function. Pass the bulb lines through the slot in the side of the case being sure the lines don't kink. Secure the bulb with the two phillips screws. Position the carb on the studs and slide the choke lever into its place in the case as you go. Place the filter housing on the studs and push the carb and housing down watching the fuel lines for any kinks, especially where the throttle cable is in close proximity to the short carb purge line. Check the throttle function for interferance, and Install the two 8mm nuts. Now route the fuel line around the throttle mechanism out of the way, hold it to the barb on the side of the carb and cut it to length and install. Put some fuel mix in the tank (dont fill it) to test. Press the primer bulb, tilting the saw with fill cap removed, and see if anything leaks, also watch fuel flow back to the tank inside as you press the bulb. You should see fuel and air bubbles from the purge line. When all air bubbles are gone the system is purged. Install the new foam filter in the housing and then the top and side cases. I did not reinstall the cover of the carb adjust needle screws so I could adjust the fuel/ air mixture to run at peak performance. Hope this helps! The kit that I got was perfect and there are some useful instructions included. Thank you! Respectfully Mark Read more...

Your Price

$6.59

Blower Primer

★★★★★

3 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11826485

Manufacturer Part Number P005003120

This Primer Bulb is a clear, plastic, individually sold part with an Outer Diameter of 0.720 inches (18.30 mm) and a Height of 0.674 inches (17.12 mm). With Flange: 0.842" (21.40 mm). This part is rated as Easy to install by customers, and attaches to the primer pump assembly. If the part shows signs of breakage, such as cracks appearing due to the bulb drying out, or fatigue, then it must be replaced. Refer to your owners manual/model number to ensure you are choosing the correct part.

Fixes these symptoms

Will Not Start
See more...

Your Price

$5.36

Blower Fuel Filter

★★★★★

2 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS11826311

Manufacturer Part Number A369000480

This OEM Fuel Filter is a silver and white, steel/felt, part measuring about 1.25 inches in length and 3/4 inch wide. It can be installed with pliers and is rated as Easy to install by customers. This part attaches inside the fuel tank to clean the fuel of debris, and should be replaced during regular maintenance, check your manual for recommended replacement time. If the filter is leaking or it has a blockage preventing fuel flow, then it should be replaced. If the engine sounds like it is not getting enough fuel, then remove the filter and check it for blockage.

Installation Instructions

Paul from SENECA, SC

Fuel line grommet rotted

This blower is quite old looked on YouTube. Removed grommet with needle nose pliers. Removed tank to install new parts. I had trouble getting return line off carb so planned to reuse it after grommet was in place. Thin was a mistake because the seated grommet compresses the holes. Took unnecessary time to get it through. With my trimmer with all lines in place. Hardest part was to get the grommet to seat even with silicone. Read more...

Fuel Line Grommet – Part Number: 13211546730

Your Price

$4.99

Blower Fuel Line Grommet

★★★★★

7 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS8859978

Manufacturer Part Number 13211546730

This fuel line grommet is compatible with several types of outdoor power equipment. The fuel line grommet creates a seal where the fuel line enters and exits the fuel tank. It is made of black rubber and this version has 3 holes. If your fuel tank or fuel lines are leaking fuel, or your current fuel grommet is worn out, you should consider replacing it. This item is sold individually.

Installation Instructions

Donald from ORANGE PARK, FL

fuel tank leaking around where lines went in tank

took all the old parts off and replaced them Read more...

Button-Feed, Bump – Part Number: 144-4105

Your Price

$17.77

Blower Button-Feed, Bump

PartSelect Number PS16666051

Manufacturer Part Number 144-4105

Your Price

$4.98

Blower Primer Pump

PartSelect Number PS8858167

Manufacturer Part Number 12318140630

The Primer Pump, aka the Pump Bulb, is a clear, individually sold, plastic part, sourced from the original equipment manufacturer. It has an Outer Diameter of 0.616 Inches, 15.66mm and is 0.558 Inches and 14.19mm in height. This part is used to pump fuel from the tank to the carburator and is rated Easy to install. This part installs onto the primer assembly. If the part dries out or starts leaking that means it is broken (likely due to fatigue or general wear) and must be replaced. Check the model number to ensure you are choosing the right part.

Spark Plug Bpm-8Y – Part Number: 15901019830

Your Price

$3.99

Blower Spark Plug Bpm-8Y

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS9263506

Manufacturer Part Number 15901019830

This Spark Plug Bpm-8y is a silver and white OEM part. Made of steel and ceramic it is individually sold, and is an electrical part. It is installed with a spark plug socket and is rated as Easy to install. It is attached inside of the cylinder head, and is used to ignite the air fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber. You can clean the spark plug with a fine sandpaper of 180 or more, then spray it with carburator cleaner and wipe dry. However, even after regular maintenance, spark plugs need to be changed as part of good engine fine-tuning. Regap to manufacturer specifications. Refer to your owners manual or model number to ensure you are choosing the correct product. Note: If your engine has more than one cylinder and sounds like it has a miss, you can remove each spark plug wire one at a time to find the miss. If the engine drops in rpm when you remove the wire, then that cylinder is fine, if it does not drop then you have found your miss!

Bulb-Purge "snap-in" – Part Number: 530047721

Your Price

$6.21

Blower Bulb-Purge "snap-in"

PartSelect Number PS9471212

Manufacturer Part Number 530047721

This primer bulb, also known as a purge bulb, is used to push more fuel from the fuel tank into the carburetor of your small engine equipment, to help the engine start easier. Over time and through extended use and exposure to gas and oil, the bulb of the primer will eventually lose its elasticity and crack or break. This bulb is made of plastic and can be replaced by accessing the ignition system. Disconnect the fuel lines and pop out the bulb with a set of pliers, and once you pop in the new bulb, you just reconnect the fuel lines. This bulb is compatible with a variety of makes and models of small engine equipment and is sold as an individual part.

Installation Instructions

Robert from MANVILLE, NJ

Replace the fuel lines

Replaced all fuel lines. Followed instructions found on Partselect.com, which said to insert cut fuel line in tank and use forceps to reach back in the tank and pull the fuel line through. The problem was that I did not have forceps, or needle nosed pliers that could reach the end of the hose.

Instead of running the line into the tank, I found another suggestion online to run the line from inside the tank outward, allowing me to grab the line with any pliers and thread it. The way I did this was used about a foot length of 14 gauge copper wire. Put an inch or two into the hose (that has been cut on an angle), and use a little black tape to secure the hose on the wire. Now you should be able to route the stiff wire from inside the tank to the fuel hole in the tank. Fish the wire through, and it should be enough to get the tapered end through the tank. Pull the copper wire, mine came out, but there was enough of the hose exposed on the outside of the tank for me to grab with pliers and pull it through. Read more...

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