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Your Price 12.19
  In Stock
Dryer Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(291)
PartSelect Number PS11741460
Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519
This thermal fuse is used in dryers as a safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. This replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals, and is sold individually. When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. It attaches to the blower wheel housing. Blown fuses can be caused by clogged dryer vents. We recommend checking to make sure all of the vents are clear when you perform this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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Your Price 5.96
  In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(52)
PartSelect Number PS884734
Manufacturer Part Number 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part.
Installation Instructions
judie from mays landing, NJ
interior drawers were off their rollers
pulled the washer out and replaces the top roller system on both sides and the replaced the weels and brackets on the bottom drwaer. however i had trouble putting the dish washer back correctly and had to call a repairman to adjust the dishwasher and alighn it to open and close properly. but i did do good inside. i feel it was easy and a success. thank you for having the supplies for us to attempt to repair it on our own. Read more...
Your Price 16.80
  In Stock
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(276)
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This multi rib belt is an important part in your dryer, it is what helps rotate the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. As the armature of the motor rotates, the belt begins to move and turns the drum. If you notice the drum of your dryer is not spinning during the dry cycle, but you hear the motor running, your belt may have snapped and it will need to be replaced. This belt features four ribs and three grooves, however it replaces a wide variety of belts including wider styles that had five ribs and four grooves. When installing this part make sure the grooves are facing down, against the drum. This replacement part is 92 1/4 inches in length, and 1/4 inch wide. Before you begin any repair work, make sure your dryer has been unplugged.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself. Read more...
Your Price 4.04
  In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(54)
PartSelect Number PS11750108
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10196406
This drip bowl is used for electric cooktops and ranges, it is designed to sit under a six-inch surface burner. It catches the drips and spills coming from the cookware on the surface burner. This drip bowl is chrome, and it has a diameter of 8 inches. You need to remove the burner element to replace this part. Line the hole up with the element terminal blocks, and ensure the new bowl is flush with the surface of the cooktop before replacing the burner element. Drip bowls need to be replaced when they are lost, damaged, or you are no longer able to clean them adequately. This replacement part is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Joe from Greeley, CO
oven wouldn't heat
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then removed element and replaced with new
.
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Your Price 16.03
  In Stock
Dryer Cycling Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees, turns off, and then turns on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, it could indicate an issue with the thermostat. The installation of the cycling thermostat is simple and the only tool required is a 1/4 inch nut driver (and gloves for safety).
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Shuts off too soon
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Tom from High Point, NC
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise! Read more...
Your Price 18.40
  In Stock
M Series New Style Coil Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(102)
PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834
This is an M series new style coil kit, used in gas dryers. When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils work together to let the gas enter the dryer. The coils open the gas valve; if the valve does not open the heating element will not ignite. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. This kit comes with a three-terminal boost/hold coil, and a two-terminal main coil. Each part is approximately 1 1/4 inches in diameter. If the igniter glows but shuts off without igniting gas, it means one of the two valves is faulty. We recommend you replace these as a set. Before you begin this repair, unplug your appliance and shut off the gas supply.
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!
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Your Price 4.92
  In Stock
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(77)
PartSelect Number PS334230
Manufacturer Part Number 279570
This is a door catch kit, and it is designed for use with your dryer. On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. This kit includes two strikes, three catches, and a set of instructions. Each of the door catches included have a different tension. Make sure you use the one that matches the existing catch on your appliance. All three of these are color-coded, and have a number on the back. The instruction sheet will tell you which catch you need to use for your specific model type.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Door won’t close
  • Lid or door won’t close
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source. Read more...
Your Price 9.37
  On Order
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(77)
PartSelect Number PS347627
Manufacturer Part Number 349241T
The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does not include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to be replaced if the dryer is noisy or will not tumble. The tools needed to complete this repair are a putty knife, Phillips screw driver, and a 5/16 nut driver. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • Noisy
  • Will Not Start
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from Fremont, NE
Wife told me Dryer would make a funny sound, then stop + had an a funny smell as well. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was time to be replace.
The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.
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Your Price 5.40
  In Stock
Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(38)
PartSelect Number PS11750107
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10196405
This drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements, and catches drips and spills from the cookware on the burner. The diameter of the drip bowl is approximately 10 inches. This replacement might appear slightly different, but it will fit your appliance. You will need no tools to complete this repair. Simply remove the burner element, remove the old bowl, line up the hole on the new bowl with the terminal block and drop it into place. Make sure the bowl is flat before reinstalling the element. While you have the element out you should inspect the terminals for corrosion, damage, or discoloration. If you notice any of those things you should also replace the element and terminal block. You will need to replace your drip bowl if it is lost, damaged, or can no longer be cleaned. This replacement part is sold individually. To extend the life of your new drip bowl we recommend you clean it regularly with soap and water.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Joe from Greeley, CO
oven wouldn't heat
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then removed element and replaced with new
.
Read more...
Your Price 4.73
  In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(117)
PartSelect Number PS2376034
Manufacturer Part Number 8206232A
This exterior light bulb for your microwave is 40W and has a small screw-in base. To access the exterior light bulb, you will need to remove the panel on the bottom of the microwave using a Phillips screwdriver. If your exterior light bulb has not been changed before, it is probably held in place with some silicone. You will need to cut away this silicone to remove the old bulb. If you cannot access the silicone with a utility knife, it can be removed using dental floss. Once the silicone is removed, simply unscrew the old bulb, and replace it with the new one. Be sure to disconnect the power to the microwave before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
Chris from Cedar Hill, TX
Burned out light under microwave and Filters needed changing
I just removed the multiple screws which held the hood cover on. I then attempted to remove the light bulbs from the socket. This proved impossible because the bulbs were so fragile from the heat and grease build up. To make this task much easier and probably safer, just replace the bulb housing and light bulb. The bulb housing unplugs very easily. Just replace it then screw your new bulb in. P.S. Be sure to unplug appliance before you start.

The filters are very easy to replace. No tools needed.

Hope this helps.
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