Roper Range Parts
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Popular Roper Range Parts
Your Price
$11.73
In Stock
Roper Range Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect Number PS884734
Manufacturer Part Number 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Installation Instructions
judie from mays landing, NJ
interior drawers were off their rollers
pulled the washer out and replaces the top roller system on both sides and the replaced the weels and brackets on the bottom drwaer. however i had trouble putting the dish washer back correctly and had to call a repairman to adjust the dishwasher and alighn it to open and close properly. but i did do good inside. i feel it was easy and a success. thank you for having the supplies for us to attempt to repair it on our own.
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Your Price
$7.67
In Stock
Roper Range Chrome Drip Bowl - 8 inch
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PartSelect Number PS11750107
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10196405
This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookware on the burner. The diameter of the drip bowl is approximately 10 inches. This replacement might appear slightly different, but it will fit your appliance. You will need no tools to complete this repair. Simply remove the burner element, remove the old bowl, line up the hole on the new bowl with the terminal block and drop it into place. Make sure the bowl is flat before reinstalling the element. While you have the element out you should inspect the terminals for corrosion, damage, or discolouration. If you notice any of those things you should also replace the element and terminal block. You will need to replace your drip bowl if it is lost, damaged, or can no longer be cleaned. This replacement part is sold individually. To extend the life of your new drip bowl we recommend you clean it regularly with soap and water. We recommend only using the recommended drip bowl for your appliance; generic versions will not fit properly which could affect the performance of your elements and cause long-term damage.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Joe from Greeley, CO
oven wouldn't heat
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then removed element and replaced with new. Read more...
Your Price
$6.96
In Stock
Roper Range Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
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PartSelect Number PS11750108
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10196406
This drip bowl is used for electric cooktops and ranges, it is designed to sit under a 6-inch surface burner. It catches the drips and spills coming from the cookware on the surface burner. This drip bowl is chrome, and it has a diameter of 8 inches. You need to remove the burner element to replace this part. Line the hole up with the element terminal blocks, and ensure the new bowl is flush with the surface of the cooktop before replacing the burner element. Drip bowls need to be replaced when they are lost, damaged, or you are no longer able to clean them adequately. This replacement part is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Joe from Greeley, CO
oven wouldn't heat
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then removed element and replaced with new. Read more...
Your Price
$11.02
In Stock
Roper Range Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect Number PS217532
Manufacturer Part Number 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges, microwaves, and dryers. It features a frosted glass bulb with a standard metal socket base, which allows you to easily unscrew the burnt-out light and twist the new bulb into place. Depending on your appliance, there may be a guard or cover protecting the lightbulb, in which case you may require additional tools to remove the cover. We recommend disconnecting the power supply to your appliance before changing the lightbulb.
Installation Instructions
J. Douglas from Grass Valley, CA
Broken plastic parts
Cleaned the refrigerator as the old parts were removed. Installed new parts as the old parts were removed so as to easily identify the replacement parts. Very easy and wife was extremely happy after old plastic parts self destructed over a period of months and refrigerator was essentially unusable on the bottom two drawers.
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Your Price
$17.64
In Stock
Roper Range Idler Pulley Assembly
PartSelect Number PS11743765
Manufacturer Part Number WP691366
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may need to replace the idler pulley assembly. Make sure to disconnect power before installing this part, and wear work gloves to protect your hands. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, consider replacing the drive belt as well. You will need a putty knife, a Phillips screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver for this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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Your Price
$9.81
In Stock
Roper Range Roller Shaft
Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.
I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.
Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.
Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.
Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc
Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.
Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).
Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11743031
Manufacturer Part Number WP6-3129480
This roller shaft is also known as a support roller shaft or a drum roller axle, and is a part for your dryer. The function of this piece is to act as the axle for the drum roller; it provides a place for the roller to spin. The tools required for this repair are a stubby Phillips screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, a pair of snap ring pliers, and a 9/16 wrench. The first step before replacing this part should be to disconnect your dryer from the power source.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Frederick W. from Austin, TX
Motor buzzed and dryer drum would not spin when pressing start
From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.
I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.
Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.
Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.
Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc
Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.
Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).
Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse. Read more...
Your Price
$72.96
In Stock
Roper Range Bake Element - 2600W 240V
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PartSelect Number PS11740695
Manufacturer Part Number WP308180
The bake element in your oven is the part that provides heat when cooking. If your oven is too hot, or not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, you may need to replace the bake element. This part is 2600 Watts and 240 Volts. It is a closed hinged style bake element which is 15-3/4 inches long and 16-5/8 inches wide. The terminal depth is three inches and they are 1-3/4 inches apart. This part is made of metal and is black in color. Be sure to disconnect power to the oven before completing this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Oven is too hot
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Joe from Greeley, CO
oven wouldn't heat
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then removed element and replaced with new. Read more...
Your Price
$95.44
In Stock
Roper Range Surface Burner Element Switch, Large Burner
PartSelect Number PS11740783
Manufacturer Part Number WP3149400
This surface burner element switch is for an 8-inch surface burner on an oven, stove, or range. The element switch controls the heat of the surface burner. Disconnect power to your range before completing this repair because you will be working closely with electrical circuits. Remove the screws from back panel and the console, and remove the console to expose the switch. It is recommended to check for overheating or arcing on the wiring harness in case they need to be replaced as well. The harness that connects to the switch features a slip-on terminal for easy installation.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- Oven is too hot
- Oven not heating evenly
- See more...
Installation Instructions
chaz from fairplay, CO
the element did not turn compleatly off, the on light stayed on.
removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. removed each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well
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Your Price
$67.12
In Stock
Roper Range Oven Bake Element
PartSelect Number PS11752501
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10308477
This bake element is located at the bottom of the oven to supply heat and it has push-on terminals. If your baking element is burnt out, the heat is not consistent, or is defective, then replacing the element could be a solution to your appliance problem. The tools needed for this replacement are: a screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. The first step in is to unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker before starting. Unscrew the black of the oven cavity to pull out wires from the defective element. Reconnect wires to the new element and screw it back on. Make sure the element is sitting flat.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Oven is too hot
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Esther from San Antonio, TX
heating element burnt up
first I pulled the stove from the wall. Then unplugged the stove from the wall (electric stove) for safety. then I removed the middle back panel screws(2) and then the panel. I then pulled the wires off the heating element that was bad. I took the screws (2) off the heating element inside the oven. I had to use WD-40 to loosen the screws because with the heat they were really stuck. I removed the heating element and replaced it with the one I got through partselect.com. Put everything back and walla finished. Partselect.com sent me the right part at the right price and fast. No hassles at all.
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Your Price
$10.10
In Stock
Roper Range Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
PartSelect Number PS2366565
Manufacturer Part Number W10196406RW
If your element will not heat, there could be an issue with your drip bowl. This chrome drip bowl is 8 inches in diameter, and fits most electric ranges. Before you replace the drip bowl, make sure the element is turned off and cool to the touch. Installation is easy, just remove the element, replace the current drip bowl, and replace the element. Make sure the small hole on the bowl lines up with the element socket. The manufacturer has substituted this part, it now has a hole in the center, and no longer has a solid bottom. For a step by step guide, click the video below.
Fixes these symptoms
- Element will not heat
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kings Park, NY
Drip bowls were rusty and rotting through
I simply removed the elements and replaced the drip bowls with new ones. Put the elements back in and my stove looks %1000 better!
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Roper Range Appliance Types
Related Roper Range Parts
- Roper Range Drip Bowls
- Roper Range Elements and Burners
- Roper Range Hardware
- Roper Range Switches
- Roper Range Igniters
- Roper Range Wire Plugs and Connectors
- Roper Range Valves
- Roper Range Knobs
- Roper Range Racks
- Roper Range Seals and Gaskets
- Roper Range Doors
- Roper Range Hinges
- Roper Range Handles
Popular Roper Range Models
Below are the most popular Roper Range models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- FEP310VQ0 Freestanding, Electric
- FGP305KW3 Freestanding, Gas
- FEP310KW4 Freestanding, Electric
- FEP310KW0 Freestanding, Electric
- FEP310KW1 Freestanding, Electric
- FGP305KW0 Freestanding, Gas
- FEP320KW0 Freestanding, Electric
- FES330KQ0 Freestanding, Electric
- FGP305KW2 Freestanding, Gas
- FEP310KW2 Freestanding, Electric
- FGP305KW5 Freestanding, Gas
- FEP310KW5 Freestanding, Electric
- FES310BW1 Freestanding 30" Electric, Self-clean
- FGP305KW4 Freestanding, Gas
- FEP310BW1 Freestanding 30" Electric, Conventional
- FEP310BW0 Freestanding 30" Electric, Conventional
- FEP310KW6 Freestanding, Electric
- FEP310GW0 Freestanding 30" Electric
- FGP305KW6 Freestanding, Gas
- FEP310KW3 Freestanding, Electric
