Dryer Parts

Shop By Brand Shop By Part Type

Popular Dryer Parts

Your Price
$11.57
  In Stock
Drum Bearing Slide - White
★★★★★
★★★★★
(149)
PartSelect Number PS755842
Manufacturer Part Number WE1M504
This authentic, white Drum Bearing Slide, also known as the bearing drum slide, glide, or pad, is a plastic, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Check both slides for signs of wear, because they often wear at the same rate, and should be replaced at the same time; there are 2 of these particular slides per dryer. This part is sold individually, so you'll need to purchase multiple parts if replacing both at the same time.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Matthew from Plainfield, IL
Due to over loading of the dryer the drum ruined the slides and was making a bad noise due to plastic rubbing plastic
It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy. Read more...
Your Price
$8.92
  In Stock
Drum Bearing Slide - Green
★★★★★
★★★★★
(24)
PartSelect Number PS6447706
Manufacturer Part Number WE1M1067
This original equipment manufacturer Drum Bearing Slide is a plastic, green, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. As the slides start to break down it may cause your dryer to make noise or not dry clothes in the usual amount of time. You will need to purchase two for both sides of your dryer. They attach to the outer-most sides of the bearing. The manufacturer recommends replacing both slides at the same time. Take this opportunity to clean out the lint and dust in the dryer, to keep it running smoothly. This is a genuine replacement part that comes directly from the manufacturer. This item is sold individually. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Although this part is denoted as being "Green" in its title, many users and technicians have noted that its true colour is closer to a dark gray or black.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Matthew from Plainfield, IL
Due to over loading of the dryer the drum ruined the slides and was making a bad noise due to plastic rubbing plastic
It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy. Read more...
Your Price
$15.05
  In Stock
Dryer Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(302)
PartSelect Number PS11741460
Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Read more...
Your Price
$4.92
  In Stock
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(82)
PartSelect Number PS334230
Manufacturer Part Number 279570
This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. The catch holds the door strike to keep the door closed during the drying cycle. If the door does not latch closed, you won’t be able to start a drying cycle. If this part is malfunctioning, you may not be able to open or close your door. In some instances, it may seem like your door is closing, but if it is not latching properly you won’t be able to start your drying cycle. You should replace this part as soon as it’s malfunctioning. Your dryer may run even though the latch is malfunctioning, but it is unsafe if the dryer continues to run while the door is open. This replacement part features 1 door latch kit which includes 2 strikes, 3 catches, and a set of instructions. This model is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white/silver.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Door won’t close
  • Lid or door won’t close
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source. Read more...
Your Price
$16.80
  On Order
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(289)
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself. Read more...
Your Price
$25.56
  In Stock
Drive Belt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(103)
PartSelect Number PS1766009
Manufacturer Part Number WE12M29
This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley, allowing all the parts to work together, spinning the drum as the motor rotates. If the drum will not turn when the dryer is turned on the belt is likely broken. It is common for belts to stretch or become brittle over time, which is what leads to the breakage. If broken, it should be replaced; the drum simply cannot spin without this belt. Refer to your model number and user manual to check if this part is right for you. Ensure you use work gloves to protect your hands from sharp internal parts during this repair. Please note: When comparing the length of your old belt to the length of the belt as stated here, remember that a small amount of stretching and contortion may occur with belts over time for a range of different reasons. Unless your belt is drastically different in length, this belt is what you are looking for despite any small inaccuracies. You will need to remove power to your appliance, remove the main panel, and access the motor drive to slip your new belt back into place.
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Edwin from Seattle, WA
Dryer making grinding noises
We live in a Condominium, space is tight especially in the Utility room where the washer/dryer are located. Turned dryer breaker off at the electical panel.
Removed the top cover and front assembly w/door and front drum support, right where the unit was located. Had to gain rear access to loosen drum drive belt so undid the dryer vent hose to floor connection through a front acess hole. Moved the unit out to the breakfast nook as well as disconnecting the power cable from the wall socket. Removed the rear access panel covers and unhooked the drive belt. At the front removed the top screws off the lower cross member to allow spreading of the side covers to allow the removal of the drum. Removed drum and found the bearing bushing gone, reduced to powder.
Using the supplied instuction sheet, replaced the rear bearing assembly, replaced the drum after vacumming the whole interior and started the reassembly of the unit using the new belt and moved the unit back into place. Reconnected the power cable and dryer vent then lastly replaced the lint filter and selector knob. Closed the breaker and turned on the machine, no noise!!!
Incidently I am 78 years old. Thanks PartSelect.
Read more...
Your Price
$25.68
  In Stock
M Series New Style Coil Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(104)
PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834
When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil may not be opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective coil, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can break as a result of material fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary coil
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!
Read more...
Your Price
$20.72
  On Order
Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
PartSelect Number PS347627
Manufacturer Part Number 349241T
The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does not include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to be replaced if the dryer is noisy or will not tumble. The tools needed to complete this repair are a putty knife, Phillips screw driver, and a 5/16 nut driver. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • Noisy
  • Will Not Start
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from Fremont, NE
Wife told me Dryer would make a funny sound, then stop + had an a funny smell as well. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was time to be replace.
The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.
Read more...
Your Price
$43.91
  In Stock
Front Drum Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(52)
PartSelect Number PS960316
Manufacturer Part Number WE3M26
This Front Drum Bearing (Top Bearing, Dryer Drum Front Support Bearing, Drum Support Bearing, Dryer Drum Glide Bearing) holds the drum bearing and slides for the drum to turn on. The front drum bearing attaches onto the inside of the dryer front panel. When this part fails, the drum may no longer turn freely, make odd sounds, and not dry properly due to the drum no longer sealing. This part needs to be replaced if it is broken (often due to normal wear and tear), no longer able to hold the drum bearing slide securely, or has been eroded by the drum movement. This part is about 10 inches in height and 22 inches in width, and comes in white plastic. Sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Daniel from Chicago, IL
Dryer was squeeling when running.
I removed the two screws at the front above the drum opening (with the dryer door open). The top panel then lifts off. I removed the screw at each side that holds the front panel to the side panels, tilted the front panel forward, which disengages the front of the drum from the front drum glide bearing. I then lifted the front panel slightly, unhooking the bottom of the panel from the dryer base, and swung the front panel aside. I removed the existing top drum bearing guide, which was disintegrated, and snapped in the new bearing guide, with the nylon slide strips installed in the bearing guide. Next pulled out the old felt strip, and pressed the new one in place. I then put the bottom of the front panel back into the bottom of the dryer front, and while lifting the drum to asure it fit over the bearing guide, pushed the front panel back to a vertical position to mate with the side panels. I then replaced the side panel screws, replaced the top, and replaced the front top panel screws. Read more...
Your Price
$10.20
  In Stock
Roller Support Tri-Ring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect Number PS11755850
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John from Tucson, AZ
worn out part
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair. Read more...

Brands

Related Parts

Popular Dryer Models

Below are the most popular Dryer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.