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This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 i
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nch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. If your dryer is damaged, it may be making loud, squeaking, and/or squealing noises while the drum is turning. This is from normal wear and tear. The drum may eventually stop turning all together. This is a sign the part should be replaced. This is one complete maintenance kit. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. The parts are constructed of plastic, metal, and rubber, and come in black/white/silver.
The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. If your dryer is damaged, it may be making loud, squeaking, and/or squealing noises while the drum is turning. This is from normal wear and tear. The drum may eventually stop turning all together. This is a sign the part should be replaced. This is one complete maintenance kit. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. The parts are constructed of plastic, metal, and rubber, and come in black/white/silver.
What this part fixes:
- Drum Not Spinning
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Marks left on clothes
Installation Instructions
DENNIS from ALTOONA, FL
Broken drive belt
Grow a second set of hands. Always unplug any appliance. Remove lint screen. remove two screws (philips Head). I took a wooden shim lightly tapped w/hammer to pop front of dryer top free. Mine worked on hinges and just flipped back til it rested against the wall. Removed two 5/16 screws inside holding face on carefully raise face section
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off the support clips at either side on the bottom. Pull drum out (I have the large style drum commercial size [approx.). Clean the inside free of all lint (known to be fire hazard). Sling new belt around drum. Get newly grown set of hands to hold drum in place. Pinch belt to fit between tensioner, lift tensioner and place belt around motor pulley. Spin drum couple times to make certain belt isn't twisted. Reverse dismantle proccess to put back together. Replace all parts that come with kit, you'll feel better knowing you got a new dryer, almost.
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The heating element (Flat Can Heating Element 5400W, Heating Element, Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, Dryer Heating Element) provides heat to the dryer. It is metal and measures 10.5 inches long, 7.5 inches wide, 2 inches deep. The element attaches to the heater housing. This part can break as a result of wear and tear. This can be material fatigue or prolonged high temperature exposure. If broken your clothes may not dry because of a lack of heat. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. First check the thermal fuse on the blower housing before deciding to replace the heating element.
The heating element (Flat Can Heating Element 5400W, Heating Element, Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, Dryer Heating Element) provides heat to the dryer. It is metal and measures 10.5 inches long, 7.5 inches wide, 2 inches deep. The element attaches to the heater housing. This part can break as a result of wear and tear. This can be material fatigue or prolonged high temperature exposure. If broken your clothes may not dry because of a lack of heat. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. First check the thermal fuse on the blower housing before deciding to replace the heating element.
Installation Instructions
Gadi from Irvine, CA
Dryer motor runs, but no heat
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element wi ... Read more th an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Good luck.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element wi ... Read more th an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Good luck.
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The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
Installation Instructions
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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This Whirlpool Dryer Repair Kit is a convenient solution for fixing noise and drum movement problems in 27-inch dryers. Compatible with models from Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and more, the kit includes a drive belt, drum support rollers, an idler pulley, mounting clips, and a washer. It’s designed for straightforward installation using standard tools, and should only be installed after disconnecting power. Ideal for restoring smooth, quiet dryer performance, this kit combines essential components in one package to save time and effort during repairs.
Installation requires disassembling the dryer to replace parts using standard tools. Ensure the dryer is unplugged before starting. This durable OEM kit provides reliable repairs for quieter, more efficient operation.
This Whirlpool Dryer Repair Kit is a convenient solution for fixing noise and drum movement problems in 27-inch dryers. Compatible with models from Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and more, the kit includes a drive belt, drum support rollers, an idler pulley, mounting clips, and a washer. It’s designed for straightforward installation using standard tools, and should only be installed after disconnecting power. Ideal for restoring smooth, quiet dryer performance, this kit combines essential components in one package to save time and effort during repairs.
Installation requires disassembling the dryer to replace parts using standard tools. Ensure the dryer is unplugged before starting. This durable OEM kit provides reliable repairs for quieter, more efficient operation.
Installation Instructions
jason from HOLDEN, MA
very loud squeeling sound
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to re
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move and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
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MAKE THIS REPAIR A GUARANTEED WIN
OVER 2 MILLION PARTS TO ENSURE VICTORY
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside the heater housing inside the dryer. Wear and tear on the heater coil from use will eventually cause the coil to break and the element to fail. When this part fails it can cease to produce any heat. Alternately, the coil could break and short to ground allowing the dryer to continue to heat even when turned off. The latter is a fire hazard and the dryer should be disconnected from power until the element is replaced. If the element coil breaks, the element needs to be replaced. This model is 11 by 5 inches with 5/16” terminals, metal and ceramic, and comes in black. It is sold individually.
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside the heater housing inside the dryer. Wear and tear on the heater coil from use will eventually cause the coil to break and the element to fail. When this part fails it can cease to produce any heat. Alternately, the coil could break and short to ground allowing the dryer to continue to heat even when turned off. The latter is a fire hazard and the dryer should be disconnected from power until the element is replaced. If the element coil breaks, the element needs to be replaced. This model is 11 by 5 inches with 5/16” terminals, metal and ceramic, and comes in black. It is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Alan from Brooksville, FL
Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in a
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n open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
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Installation Instructions
Jeff from Phoenix, AZ
noisy and slow drum speed
1. disconnect power,gas and vent lines
2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-co ... Read more nnect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products
2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-co ... Read more nnect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products
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This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley, allowing all the parts to work together, spinning the drum as the motor rotates. If the drum will not turn when the dryer is turned on the belt is likely broken. It is common for belts to stretch or become brittle over time, which is what leads to the breakage. If broken, it should be replaced; the drum simply cannot spin without this belt. Refer to your model number and user manual to check if this part is right for you. Ensure you use work gloves to protect your hands from sharp internal parts during this repair. Please note: When comparing the length of your old belt to the length of the belt as stated here, remember that a small amount of stretching and contortion may occur with belts over time for a range of different reasons. Unless your belt is drastically different in length, this belt is what you are looking for despite any small inaccuracies. You will need to remove power to your appliance, remove the main panel, and access the motor drive to slip your new belt back into place.
This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley, allowing all the parts to work together, spinning the drum as the motor rotates. If the drum will not turn when the dryer is turned on the belt is likely broken. It is common for belts to stretch or become brittle over time, which is what leads to the breakage. If broken, it should be replaced; the drum simply cannot spin without this belt. Refer to your model number and user manual to check if this part is right for you. Ensure you use work gloves to protect your hands from sharp internal parts during this repair. Please note: When comparing the length of your old belt to the length of the belt as stated here, remember that a small amount of stretching and contortion may occur with belts over time for a range of different reasons. Unless your belt is drastically different in length, this belt is what you are looking for despite any small inaccuracies. You will need to remove power to your appliance, remove the main panel, and access the motor drive to slip your new belt back into place.
Installation Instructions
Edwin from Seattle, WA
Dryer making grinding noises
We live in a Condominium, space is tight especially in the Utility room where the washer/dryer are located. Turned dryer breaker off at the electical panel.
Removed the top cover and front assembly w/door and front drum support, right where the unit was located. Had to gain rear access to loosen drum drive belt so undid the dryer v ... Read more ent hose to floor connection through a front acess hole. Moved the unit out to the breakfast nook as well as disconnecting the power cable from the wall socket. Removed the rear access panel covers and unhooked the drive belt. At the front removed the top screws off the lower cross member to allow spreading of the side covers to allow the removal of the drum. Removed drum and found the bearing bushing gone, reduced to powder.
Using the supplied instuction sheet, replaced the rear bearing assembly, replaced the drum after vacumming the whole interior and started the reassembly of the unit using the new belt and moved the unit back into place. Reconnected the power cable and dryer vent then lastly replaced the lint filter and selector knob. Closed the breaker and turned on the machine, no noise!!!
Incidently I am 78 years old. Thanks PartSelect.
Removed the top cover and front assembly w/door and front drum support, right where the unit was located. Had to gain rear access to loosen drum drive belt so undid the dryer v ... Read more ent hose to floor connection through a front acess hole. Moved the unit out to the breakfast nook as well as disconnecting the power cable from the wall socket. Removed the rear access panel covers and unhooked the drive belt. At the front removed the top screws off the lower cross member to allow spreading of the side covers to allow the removal of the drum. Removed drum and found the bearing bushing gone, reduced to powder.
Using the supplied instuction sheet, replaced the rear bearing assembly, replaced the drum after vacumming the whole interior and started the reassembly of the unit using the new belt and moved the unit back into place. Reconnected the power cable and dryer vent then lastly replaced the lint filter and selector knob. Closed the breaker and turned on the machine, no noise!!!
Incidently I am 78 years old. Thanks PartSelect.
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The Dryer's Lint Filter is used to collect lint during the dryer cycle as it passes through the dryer vent, in order to prevent damage to the machine. This manufacturer-approved part comes in gray, measures around 12 inches wide by 11 inches high, and is easy to install. It slides into the lint filter slot in your dryer. If there is visible damage to the screen then it's time to replace the part. We recommend that you thoroughly clean the lint filter before every load, but even with good maintenance, this hard-working part is often damaged or worn over time. If your dryer isn't drying quickly, the filter may be responsible. The manufacturer has made an authorized substitution to the lint filter. Special details: When replacing lint screen ADQ56656401 you may need to also replace lint screen housing MCK49049101 and lint screen guide MEA49050001 to prevent items from catching on the lint screen, depending on your model.
The Dryer's Lint Filter is used to collect lint during the dryer cycle as it passes through the dryer vent, in order to prevent damage to the machine. This manufacturer-approved part comes in gray, measures around 12 inches wide by 11 inches high, and is easy to install. It slides into the lint filter slot in your dryer. If there is visible damage to the screen then it's time to replace the part. We recommend that you thoroughly clean the lint filter before every load, but even with good maintenance, this hard-working part is often damaged or worn over time. If your dryer isn't drying quickly, the filter may be responsible. The manufacturer has made an authorized substitution to the lint filter. Special details: When replacing lint screen ADQ56656401 you may need to also replace lint screen housing MCK49049101 and lint screen guide MEA49050001 to prevent items from catching on the lint screen, depending on your model.
Installation Instructions
David from Annapolis, MD
Filter parts chipped - replaced
Removed existing parts using screwdriver, positioned new parts in dryer and re-inserted screws, tightened - done. Piece of cake, even for someone who cannot saw a straight line with a chop saw.
This authentic, white Drum Bearing Slide, also known as the bearing drum slide, glide, or pad, is a plastic, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Check both slides for signs of wear, because they often wear at the same rate, and should be replaced at the same time; there are 2 of these particular slides per dryer. This part is sold individually, so you'll need to purchase multiple parts if replacing both at the same time.
This authentic, white Drum Bearing Slide, also known as the bearing drum slide, glide, or pad, is a plastic, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Check both slides for signs of wear, because they often wear at the same rate, and should be replaced at the same time; there are 2 of these particular slides per dryer. This part is sold individually, so you'll need to purchase multiple parts if replacing both at the same time.
Installation Instructions
Matthew from Plainfield, IL
Due to over loading of the dryer the drum ruined the slides and was making a bad noise due to plastic rubbing plastic
It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and
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drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.
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Genuine OEM Kenmore Dryer Parts
Kenmore dryers are well known for their energy efficiency and innovative features, such as the use of steam power to remove odors, wrinkles, and static. If you are experiencing difficulties with your dryer, for example your clothes are still damp at the end of the cycle, or your dryer is suddenly so loud and noisy that it’s hard to ignore, then you may need to look at performing some repairs.
For your convenience, take advantage of our model search feature to find the right part for your dryer. Rest assured that you do not have to worry about measurements or fit, as OEM parts are specially designed to fit your model. As a sign of our confidence in our products' quality, we offer a 1-year warranty on all our Kenmore electronic parts and a 365-day return period for your peace of mind.
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DIY Kenmore Dryer Repair
If you are having problems with your Kenmore dryer, we are here to help you. There is no need to worry, troubleshooting these common dryer symptoms is simple. We will tell you where to start, and what parts you need to get your dryer up and running again.
Noisy Kenmore Dryer – It is no surprise that it takes a lot of moving parts to keep your Kenmore dryer running. Whether it is due to friction or increased wear on parts, it is not uncommon for your dryer to be noisy. If you have noticed new or increasing noises coming from your Kenmore dryer there is often a simple fix. Some common noises you may hear are squeaking, squealing, thumping or banging, knocking, and grinding. What type of noise you hear can be a hint, for instance, if your dryer is squeaking it might be the idler pulley or drum bearings or rollers, and if you hear scraping or grinding it could be the drum glide or seal. Identifying the sound is the first step. You’ll want to inspect the drive belt and pulley, the drum rollers and bearing, and the blower wheel, these are the most common parts that cause a Kenmore Dryer to be noisy.
Kenmore Dryer Will Not Start – If your Kenmore dryer will not turn on at all it is a sign of power failure or an electronic problem. If this is what you are experiencing you are going to want to check the power cord, the outlet, fuses, and the breaker. It makes sense to rule those issues out first. If your Kenmore dryer has power but will not run or start a cycle you are going to want to start by inspecting the door switch. It is a safety feature that your Kenmore dryer will not run if it thinks the door is open. If there is any debris preventing it from working, or if the part has failed or is broken, your dryer will not run. If you have ruled that out you should then inspect and test the thermal fuse, start switch, timer, and thermostats.
Kenmore Dryer Not Heating Properly – It can be a problem if your Kenmore dryer is not getting hot enough; it means your clothes will not dry properly. Running cycle after cycle trying to dry your clothes can be frustrating, but this could be as simple as an airflow issue. We suggest you start by inspecting and cleaning the exhaust vents and lint screen. Once you have ruled out airflow issues, you can then move to looking at and testing the heating element, thermal fuse, power cord, and thermostats.
Kenmore Dryer Will Not Tumble – If the drum in your Kenmore dryer will not spin you will want to make sure if it is not overloaded. When you overload your dryer it may struggle to rotate, and can do more damage as it is overworked. If the load is not the issue you are going to want to make sure the belt is not broken, damaged, or stretched, that is the most common issue. A simple test before taking the dryer apart is rotating the drum by hand, if it moves too freely and there is no resistance at all that is a sign the belt is the issue. If the drive belt is fine, you should ensure the motor is operational; if the motor is faulty there is no way to drive the drum.
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