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Your Price
$7.44
  In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(63)
PartSelect Number PS884734
Manufacturer Part Number 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Installation Instructions
judie from mays landing, NJ
interior drawers were off their rollers
pulled the washer out and replaces the top roller system on both sides and the replaced the weels and brackets on the bottom drwaer. however i had trouble putting the dish washer back correctly and had to call a repairman to adjust the dishwasher and alighn it to open and close properly. but i did do good inside. i feel it was easy and a success. thank you for having the supplies for us to attempt to repair it on our own. Read more...
Your Price
$18.96
  In Stock
Dryer Thermal Fuse
★★★★★
★★★★★
(340)
PartSelect Number PS11741460
Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Read more...
Your Price
$16.60
  In Stock
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(353)
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself. Read more...
Your Price
$2.60
  In Stock
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(117)
PartSelect Number PS334230
Manufacturer Part Number 279570
This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. The catch holds the door strike to keep the door closed during the drying cycle. If the door does not latch closed, you won’t be able to start a drying cycle. If this part is malfunctioning, you may not be able to open or close your door. In some instances, it may seem like your door is closing, but if it is not latching properly you won’t be able to start your drying cycle. You should replace this part as soon as it’s malfunctioning. Your dryer may run even though the latch is malfunctioning, but it is unsafe if the dryer continues to run while the door is open. This replacement part features 1 door latch kit which includes 2 strikes, 3 catches, and a set of instructions. This model is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white/silver.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Door won’t close
  • Lid or door won’t close
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source. Read more...
Your Price
$30.55
  In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(74)
PartSelect Number PS12728638
Manufacturer Part Number W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Clint from Rayville, MO
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again. Read more...
Your Price
$8.56
  In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(151)
PartSelect Number PS2376034
Manufacturer Part Number 8206232A
This 40w light bulb is a replacement bulb constructed of glass and metal. It is an easy-to-install electrical part which produces 40w of light. If the bulb won't light up then it may be broken and should be replaced. The bulb attaches directly to an appropriate light socket and has a small screw-in base. To access the exterior light bulb, you will need to remove the panel on the bottom of the microwave using a Phillips screwdriver. If your exterior light bulb has not been changed before, it is probably held in place with some silicone. You will need to cut away this silicone to remove the old bulb. If you cannot access the silicone with a utility knife, it can be removed using dental floss. Once the silicone is removed, simply unscrew the old bulb, and replace it with the new one. Be sure to disconnect the power to the microwave before you begin this repair. This light bulb measures about 1 1/8 inches. We do not recommend using a higher-wattage bulb for this appliance, and can only recommend this specific bulb. If fixing the bulb does not solve your microwave light issue, it's possibly a problem with the socket, which means the socket and/or board will need to be replaced. This can be a more dangerous repair, so consult your user manual or a technician before attempting.
Installation Instructions
Chris from Cedar Hill, TX
Burned out light under microwave and Filters needed changing
I just removed the multiple screws which held the hood cover on. I then attempted to remove the light bulbs from the socket. This proved impossible because the bulbs were so fragile from the heat and grease build up. To make this task much easier and probably safer, just replace the bulb housing and light bulb. The bulb housing unplugs very easily. Just replace it then screw your new bulb in. P.S. Be sure to unplug appliance before you start.

The filters are very easy to replace. No tools needed.

Hope this helps.
Read more...
Your Price
$12.96
  In Stock
Roller Support Tri-Ring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect Number PS11755850
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John from Tucson, AZ
worn out part
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair. Read more...
Your Price
$66.59
  In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer with Humidity Control
★★★★★
★★★★★
(378)
PartSelect Number PS11739119
Manufacturer Part Number WP2188656
The crisper drawer (Crisper Pan, Refrigerator Crisper Drawer) with humidity control is meant to keep your vegetables and fruit as fresh as possible by allowing you to regulate the humidity levels within the drawer. It attaches on the inside of your refrigerator to the bottom of the crisper shelf. This drawer can break from misuse or accidental damage. It is also subject to material fatigue over time. If broken or damaged, it may be difficult to slide the drawer in and out, and it should be replaced. This plastic drawer measures 14.92 inches long, 7.6 inches high, and 16.5 inches wide and comes in white/clear.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Clicking sound
  • Door Sweating
  • Door won’t open or close
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
JULIA from BRONX, NEW YORK, NY
replacing parts only
the prices you had were great, now I see there was an increase in the parts.
thank you
Read more...
Your Price
$10.36
  In Stock
Lower Door Closing Cam
★★★★★
★★★★★
(86)
PartSelect Number PS11739042
Manufacturer Part Number WP2182179
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack or wear down over time. If your door will not open and close properly you may need to replace the door closing cam. To successfully install this part, you will need a 5/16 nut driver and a small flat blade screwdriver. Before you begin, unplug your appliance and disconnect the water supply. Lubricating this part may help with installation. This replacement part is sold individually. This part will fit both the left and right side of your refrigerator door. To make the repair, remove the top hinge cover, then the top hinge support. Lift the door from the bottom support and remove the old door cams. Replace the cams, using a little lubricant if necessary, and place the door back on the lower hinge support. Replace the top hinge support and your repair is complete!
Fixes these symptoms
  • Clicking sound
  • Door Sweating
  • Door won’t open or close
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Norbert from Sugar Land, TX
Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is closing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
Read more...
Your Price
$4.24
  In Stock
Agitator Directional Cogs
★★★★★
★★★★★
(331)
PartSelect Number PS388034
Manufacturer Part Number 80040
This kit is used for replacing the agitator directional cogs (Agitator Dogs, Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Dogs, Agitator Dog Ears). The agitator is what creates the thrusting motion in your washer to tumble your clothes during the washer cycle. Your agitator will rotate one way, and not the other. The agitator dogs are what prevent the agitator from rotating in both directions, while allowing it to rotate in one direction. Your agitator cogs may be malfunctioning if you can manually rotate the agitator in both directions. If broken they will need to be replaced. Cogs can be found by simply removing the softener dispenser and then removing the agitator cap. The are attached to the agitator. This replacement part features 4 agitator directional cogs. There are 4 cogs per package that are made up of high-quality plastic. This part comes in white/beige.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
  • Marks left on clothes
  • Not cleaning dishes properly
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
mike from Kent, WA
washer wouldn't agitate
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs.
Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out).
Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
Read more...

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