Appliance Parts
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Enter your model number or a part number and click "Search"Popular Appliance Parts
Your Price
$7.44
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect Number PS884734
Manufacturer Part Number 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Installation Instructions
judie from mays landing, NJ
interior drawers were off their rollers
pulled the washer out and replaces the top roller system on both sides and the replaced the weels and brackets on the bottom drwaer. however i had trouble putting the dish washer back correctly and had to call a repairman to adjust the dishwasher and alighn it to open and close properly. but i did do good inside. i feel it was easy and a success. thank you for having the supplies for us to attempt to repair it on our own.
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Your Price
$12.53
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect Number PS217532
Manufacturer Part Number 40A15
Installation Instructions
J. Douglas from Grass Valley, CA
Broken plastic parts
Cleaned the refrigerator as the old parts were removed. Installed new parts as the old parts were removed so as to easily identify the replacement parts. Very easy and wife was extremely happy after old plastic parts self destructed over a period of months and refrigerator was essentially unusable on the bottom two drawers.
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Your Price
$26.08
Temperature Sensor
PartSelect Number PS304103
Manufacturer Part Number WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.
Fixes these symptoms
- Doesn’t stop running
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Gerald from San Clemente, CA
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
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Your Price
$30.26
BELT DRIVE
Removed the top cover and front assembly w/door and front drum support, right where the unit was located. Had to gain rear access to loosen drum drive belt so undid the dryer vent hose to floor connection through a front acess hole. Moved the unit out to the breakfast nook as well as disconnecting the power cable from the wall socket. Removed the rear access panel covers and unhooked the drive belt. At the front removed the top screws off the lower cross member to allow spreading of the side covers to allow the removal of the drum. Removed drum and found the bearing bushing gone, reduced to powder.
Using the supplied instuction sheet, replaced the rear bearing assembly, replaced the drum after vacumming the whole interior and started the reassembly of the unit using the new belt and moved the unit back into place. Reconnected the power cable and dryer vent then lastly replaced the lint filter and selector knob. Closed the breaker and turned on the machine, no noise!!!
Incidently I am 78 years old. Thanks PartSelect. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS16542496
Manufacturer Part Number WE03X29897
This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley, allowing all the parts to work together, spinning the drum as the motor rotates. If the drum will not turn when the dryer is turned on the belt is likely broken. It is common for belts to stretch or become brittle over time, which is what leads to the breakage. If broken, it should be replaced; the drum simply cannot spin without this belt. Refer to your model number and user manual to check if this part is right for you. Ensure you use work gloves to protect your hands from sharp internal parts during this repair. Please note: When comparing the length of your old belt to the length of the belt as stated here, remember that a small amount of stretching and contortion may occur with belts over time for a range of different reasons. Unless your belt is drastically different in length, this belt is what you are looking for despite any small inaccuracies. You will need to remove power to your appliance, remove the main panel, and access the motor drive to slip your new belt back into place.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- Shuts off too soon
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Edwin from Seattle, WA
Dryer making grinding noises
We live in a Condominium, space is tight especially in the Utility room where the washer/dryer are located. Turned dryer breaker off at the electical panel. Removed the top cover and front assembly w/door and front drum support, right where the unit was located. Had to gain rear access to loosen drum drive belt so undid the dryer vent hose to floor connection through a front acess hole. Moved the unit out to the breakfast nook as well as disconnecting the power cable from the wall socket. Removed the rear access panel covers and unhooked the drive belt. At the front removed the top screws off the lower cross member to allow spreading of the side covers to allow the removal of the drum. Removed drum and found the bearing bushing gone, reduced to powder.
Using the supplied instuction sheet, replaced the rear bearing assembly, replaced the drum after vacumming the whole interior and started the reassembly of the unit using the new belt and moved the unit back into place. Reconnected the power cable and dryer vent then lastly replaced the lint filter and selector knob. Closed the breaker and turned on the machine, no noise!!!
Incidently I am 78 years old. Thanks PartSelect. Read more...
Your Price
$2.60
Door Catch Kit
PartSelect Number PS334230
Manufacturer Part Number 279570
This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. The catch holds the door strike to keep the door closed during the drying cycle. If the door does not latch closed, you won’t be able to start a drying cycle. If this part is malfunctioning, you may not be able to open or close your door. In some instances, it may seem like your door is closing, but if it is not latching properly you won’t be able to start your drying cycle. You should replace this part as soon as it’s malfunctioning. Your dryer may run even though the latch is malfunctioning, but it is unsafe if the dryer continues to run while the door is open. This replacement part features 1 door latch kit which includes 2 strikes, 3 catches, and a set of instructions. This model is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white/silver.
Fixes these symptoms
- Door won’t close
- Lid or door won’t close
- No heat or not enough heat
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Installation Instructions
Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
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Your Price
$16.60
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Fixes these symptoms
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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Your Price
$17.95
Drum Bearing Slide - White
PartSelect Number PS755842
Manufacturer Part Number WE1M504
This authentic, white Drum Bearing Slide, also known as the bearing drum slide, glide, or pad, is a plastic, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Check both slides for signs of wear, because they often wear at the same rate, and should be replaced at the same time; there are 2 of these particular slides per dryer. This part is sold individually, so you'll need to purchase multiple parts if replacing both at the same time.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Matthew from Plainfield, IL
Due to over loading of the dryer the drum ruined the slides and was making a bad noise due to plastic rubbing plastic
It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.
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Your Price
$13.80
Drum Bearing Slide - Green
PartSelect Number PS6447706
Manufacturer Part Number WE1M1067
This original equipment manufacturer Drum Bearing Slide is a plastic, green, easy-to-install part for your dryer. It replaces the dryer's front drum slide to allow for easier movement. You'll know if this part is an issue if your dryer is unable to tumble properly or is very noisy. Damage can come from regular use. As the slides start to break down it may cause your dryer to make noise or not dry clothes in the usual amount of time. You will need to purchase two for both sides of your dryer. They attach to the outer-most sides of the bearing. The manufacturer recommends replacing both slides at the same time. Take this opportunity to clean out the lint and dust in the dryer, to keep it running smoothly. This is a genuine replacement part that comes directly from the manufacturer. This item is sold individually. The part attaches to the outermost side of the bearing. Although this part is denoted as being "Green" in its title, many users and technicians have noted that its true colour is closer to a dark gray or black.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Matthew from Plainfield, IL
Due to over loading of the dryer the drum ruined the slides and was making a bad noise due to plastic rubbing plastic
It was pretty easy. After already taking apart the dryer to install a new belt I knew exactly my plan of action. I removed the two screws that hold the top panel of the dryer to the front panel. I then removed the top panel and removed the screws that hold the front to each side panel. I than pulled the front away from the cabinet and drum. I put the new slides in place and installed a new felt strip. I put it back together and that was that. Very easy.
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Your Price
$18.96
Dryer Thermal Fuse
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11741460
Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
Fixes these symptoms
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- No heat or not enough heat
- Shuts off too soon
- See more...
Installation Instructions
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes. Read more...
Your Price
$208.87
Ice Maker
PartSelect Number PS1993870
Manufacturer Part Number WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
Fixes these symptoms
- Ice maker dispenses too little ice
- Ice maker dispenses too much ice
- Ice maker not making ice
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Bradenton, FL
ice maker not working properly and door seal worn
Two screws held the icemaker on. You do not even have to take them all the way out to remove the IM. Replacement of the water valve was just as easy except they (parts manufacturer) updated the flange nut with a compression fitting and it took me a minute looking at it before I realize what was going on. The door seal could not be easier, no tools just a few minutes of time
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