Speed Queen Dryer Parts
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Popular Speed Queen Dryer Parts
Speed Queen Dryer M Series New Style Coil Kit
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834
When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil may not be opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective coil, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can break as a result of material fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary coil
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- Not Heating
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
Your Price
$13.92
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer Multi Rib Belt
Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.) Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11742271
Manufacturer Part Number WP40111201
This dryer drum drive belt attaches to the motor pully and works the drum as the motor rotates. The belt has a length of 93- 3/6 inches, and wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pully. Replacing the rib belt could solve symptoms such as a screeching noise when the dryer tumbles, a broken belt (dryer will not tumble if its broken), no heat or not enough heat, or the dryer will not start. The tools needed for this repair are a nut driver and a putty knife. Remember to unplug the dryer before installing the part and protect your hands by wearing gloves.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Robert from Skokie, IL
Replace drive belt
Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.) Read more...
Your Price
$35.80
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11741429
Manufacturer Part Number WP338906
If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
Fixes these symptoms
- Not Heating
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
Your Price
$22.52
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer Drum Support Roller
PartSelect Number PS11741913
Manufacturer Part Number WP37001042
This drum support roller is used for square-ported model clothes dryers. This part is sold individually; however, rollers tend to wear at the same rate, so it is suggested that both should be replaced at the same time. It has a metallic bearing in its center. The drum support roller holds the drum in place while it rotates on the support wheels. You may have a faulty or damaged roller if your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry clothes, or starts making loud noises. Customers have ranked this repair as easy and should take 15-30 minutes to complete.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Chris from Hopedale, MA
Drum not centered , clothes getting stuck in dryer
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.
Read more...
Your Price
$35.80
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer Idler Assembly
Followed other people's excellent instructions. Clean out all the dust bunnies. Schematics were a great resource. Those and the prices made me a repeat customer.
The shaft of the Idler Lever wheel was the cause, but decided, since I had it apart, to spend a little more money and replace both Drum Support Rollers and the Roller Bracket and Shaft Assembly. They showed some wear, and the parts were very inexpensive. Make sure you have snap ring pliers with prongs that are smaller than the standard 0.40 to save some aggravation with the Drum Rollers. $5 tool. Total parts were less than $60. Probably saved $150+ in labor. Quieter than ever now. Thanks! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11741930
Manufacturer Part Number WP37001287
The spring for this part is sold separately.
This idler assembly is for dryers.
Idler assembly includes the idler arm and the idler pulley that maintains tension on the drive belt, allowing the belt to turn.
Disconnect the power before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Steven from Holderness, NH
Squeeling and grinding noise
Wasn't the belt!! Changed it anyway. Should have come here earlier. That mistake added several days to the repair waiting for a second batch of the right parts. Became a pro at taking the dryer apart and reassembling, though! Easy job, just take your time and mark your wires, if you need to.Followed other people's excellent instructions. Clean out all the dust bunnies. Schematics were a great resource. Those and the prices made me a repeat customer.
The shaft of the Idler Lever wheel was the cause, but decided, since I had it apart, to spend a little more money and replace both Drum Support Rollers and the Roller Bracket and Shaft Assembly. They showed some wear, and the parts were very inexpensive. Make sure you have snap ring pliers with prongs that are smaller than the standard 0.40 to save some aggravation with the Drum Rollers. $5 tool. Total parts were less than $60. Probably saved $150+ in labor. Quieter than ever now. Thanks! Read more...
Your Price
$21.45
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer Idler Pulley Wheel W/ Bearing
PartSelect Number PS11757553
Manufacturer Part Number WPY54414
The idler pulley wheel helps the belt to rotate the drum in your dryer. If your dryer will not start, will not tumble, or is noisy during operation, the idler pulley wheel may need to be replaced. This part is located beneath the drum of the dryer, so the drum will need to be removed before you can access the idler pulley wheel. It is also recommended to remove the blower housing and motor from the dryer itself, for easier access to the idler pulley wheel. It is connected by a set of two 5/16 screws. This two-inch-wide idler pulley wheel is beige or black in color and is made of plastic. This pulley wheel comes with its own metallic bearing in its center. Be sure to shut off power to the dryer before beginning this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
William from Round Mountain, NV
Squeeling/Screeching
First I read all of the other stories about this problem so I would have the correct parts. At $6 a roller, decided to get all 3 & a belt. Pulled the lower panel off (2 bolts), then the door (2 bolts). Marked the door switch wires. Took 2 bolts out of the top & tilted it back. I found this the easiest way to access the drum. Mark 2 wires before disconnecting them from the top. All bolts are 5/16". Removed the plastic piece that connects the lint trap to the blower (3 screws). Have to access these from inside the drum. Removed the belt, then the drum. The bad roller was the belt tension roller. Can't get to the snap ring from the front of the dryer for this roller. The 2 rollers in the back you can get to without removing the drum completely. Very easy to replace all rollers with the drum out. Also very easy to re-assemble. Buy or borrow a good set of snap ring pliers. Make sure you diagram the proper belt route if you don't have a picture. I printed a picture off this web site. Have someone hold the drum up so you can get the belt on, otherwise the entire repair is a 1 person job. Went back together in about 10 minutes. Total cost $40.00 parts & shipping.
Read more...
Your Price
$24.67
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer Door Switch Kit
PartSelect Number PS1964648
Manufacturer Part Number W10169313
This part replaces two terminal switches in a dryer and prevents the dryer from running when the door is open. This includes two connectors. If your dryer will not shut off, start, or does not tumble, replacing the door switch can solve this appliance problem. The tools needed for replacement are a screw driver and wire strippers. Make sure to attach the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch, to do this you can check the resistance of the switch. Unplug the dryer before installing this part, also refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- Running With Door Open
- Won’t Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Don from Jacksonville, FL
Switch sticking in on position
FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.
Read more...
Speed Queen Dryer Thrust
PartSelect Number PS11748620
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10121334
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Spins slowly
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Chris from Hopedale, MA
Drum not centered , clothes getting stuck in dryer
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.
Read more...
Your Price
$10.70
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer High Limit Thermal Fuse
PartSelect Number PS11742274
Manufacturer Part Number WP40113801
Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do need to replace it. It's letting you know that something is wrong with your dryer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Not Heating
- Too hot
- Won’t Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from West Chester, PA
Timer won't advance for auto-sensing cycles. Low Heat.
First I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet. Then, removed the access panel in the lower front (held on by 2 screws near the floor). Then, I removed the black plastic air duct (held by 3 screws) in front of the blower. Then, with a Sharpie marker, next to each wire terminal lug, I labeled on the chassis the COLOR of each wire where it plugs on to a terminal lug (for proper wiring re-assembly later). Then, thru the lower front, I reached into the lower left rear of the dryer to remove the heating element assembly from its metal duct (held by 3 or 4 screws) - it slides down a bit, then it is easily removable. I layed the element on the floor in front of the dryer - all wiring still intact. Then, using the NEW HEATING ELEMENT and SENSORS ordered, I assembled them to match the original, re-using screws off of the old unit - and moving the wiring one-by-one from the original to the new assembly. I then installed the new heating element assembly into the duct at the lower rear of the dryer. I then replaced the 2 sensors on the front metal panel of blower housing, with new parts from my order, re-using the original wiring and screws. Then I re-installed the black plastic duct onto the front of the blower. Then, on the top of the dryer, I dissassembled the control panel from the rear, by removing 5 screws. I then found the resistor mounted on the back of the timer, and replaced it with the new one. Since the new resistor did not come with terminal lugs crimped on its wires, I had to cut the terminal lugs off of the original resistor and solder them onto the new resistor. I then reassembled the control panel. I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet and did a test run with no clothes. IT WORKED !! Then I reinstalled the lower front access panel and ran the dryer with wet clothes. IT WORKED !!
Read more...
Your Price
$8.55
In Stock
Speed Queen Dryer Door Latch Kit
Thank you. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2029855
Manufacturer Part Number 306436
This is a door latch kit, but you may also know it as a door catch kit. It is designed for your dryer. This part helps hold the door shut on your appliance. This dryer door latch kit comes in two pieces: a door latch, and a door strike or clip. Both parts are a beige white color and made entirely of plastic. Together they are 2 inches wide, 1 inch long, and about 1 inch high. To replace the door latch kit, you will need a pair of needle-nose pliers and a number 2 Phillips screwdriver.
Fixes these symptoms
- Door Pops Open
- Door won’t close
- See more...
Installation Instructions
gerry from west covina,, CA
noisy rollers, broken latch
first, I unplug the power supply of the dryer then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the dryer then pulled out the front part of the dryer,unplugged the blue & yellow wire for the on/off switch for the door,at the back of the dryer I unscrew the pannel for the belt,disconect the belt,and I unscrew the four screws on both side of the front pannel to remove the front cover of the drum. Once I removed the front cover of the drum I can now remove the drum itself to access the drum support roller. I unscrew the rollers then replace it with the new once. It was an easy job. Thank you. Read more...
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