Maytag Dryer Parts
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Popular Maytag Dryer Parts
Your Price
$26.00
Drum Support Roller Kit
Thank you. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS1570070
Manufacturer Part Number 12001541
The drum support roller (Dryer Drum Support Roller, Drum Roller and Washer Assembly) holds the drum in the proper position while it spins on the support wheels. This part rotates on the roller shaft which is attached to the rear bulkhead. This part should be replaced whenever it does not rotate easily on the roller shaft. If you’re noticing a thump, scrape, or squeal while your drum is spinning, it may be your drum support rollers. Take a look at your existing drum rollers; if one or both of them are worn or broken, you’ll need to replace them. The drum support roller is subject to constant wearing when your dryer is in use, which causes them to break down over time. This part features 1 roller and 2 small washers, and measures approximately 3 inches in diameter. It is constructed with a combination of plastic, metal and rubber. This model comes in black/beige.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
gerry from west covina,, CA
noisy rollers, broken latch
first, I unplug the power supply of the dryer then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the dryer then pulled out the front part of the dryer,unplugged the blue & yellow wire for the on/off switch for the door,at the back of the dryer I unscrew the pannel for the belt,disconect the belt,and I unscrew the four screws on both side of the front pannel to remove the front cover of the drum. Once I removed the front cover of the drum I can now remove the drum itself to access the drum support roller. I unscrew the rollers then replace it with the new once. It was an easy job. Thank you. Read more...
Your Price
$31.44
Tumbler and Motor Belt
PartSelect Number PS11757542
Manufacturer Part Number WPY312959
The tumbler and motor belt in your dryer allows the drum to spin during the drying cycle. At 100 inches in length, this dryer drum belt is 3/8 of an inch wide and has five ridges. The belt is black in color and it is made entirely of rubber. If your dryer will not tumble, is noisy during operation, or will not start you may need to replace the belt. To complete this repair, you will need to remove the front panel as well as the drum. You will need a 5/16 nut driver and a stubby Phillips screwdriver to complete the repair. Be sure to disconnect power to the dryer before you begin this repair. During the repair, make sure the belt doesn't fall into the groove in the drum, which will cause it to be too loose. You should be able to access the belt and replace it by removing the front panel and bulkhead.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Raymond from West Bend, WI
electric dryer was rumbling - wheel or belt?
Unplugged dryer. Front came off easily. Removed front of blower. Wheel came off fairly easily - could then see that shaft of motor was circular with flattened side but inside of old wheel was rounded. New wheel popped right on. Took tumbler off so I could clean lint out more easily and get a good view of how the belt threaded through. Put the tumbler back on and reached back with both hands to thread it. Took a half dozen tries until I was sure it was seated correctly and not twisted. Put front... of dryer back on. So far (a week or so) the rumble is gone. Seems blower wheel was the cause of the rumble. Belt didn't seem worn but replaced anyhow.
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Your Price
$29.84
M Series New Style Coil Kit
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834
When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil may not be opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective coil, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can break as a result of material fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary coil
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- Shuts off too soon
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
Your Price
$7.88
Retaining Ring
PartSelect Number PS11746909
Manufacturer Part Number WP9703438
This part is a retaining ring, sometimes called a retaining clip, that holds the drum support roller onto the shaft of a dryer. It is made entirely of metal and measures less than an inch in diameter. The retaining ring is a genuine OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. The ring may vary in appearance due to manufacturer substitution, but the function is the same. You may need to replace this part if the dryer is noisy during tumbling, will not tumble, or takes too long to dry. Be sure to check drum support roller kit and shaft before ordering parts.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
gerald from park city, MT
dryer squeeking
removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.
Read more...
Your Price
$12.96
Roller Support Tri-Ring
PartSelect Number PS11755850
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- Will not tumble
- See more...
Installation Instructions
John from Tucson, AZ
worn out part
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.
Read more...
Your Price
$14.20
Front Glide Kit
2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.
3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.
4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.
5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.
6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.
7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.
8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).
9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.
I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.
In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.
I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS1804752
Manufacturer Part Number 306508
The front glide is located at the front of the dryer, the drum rides along it. If you hear a metal-on-metal noise when your dryer is running, your front glide may be worn out and require replacing. This front glide kit comes with a blue plastic glide, a brown cork pad, and two metallic rivets. Two kits are required per appliance. While you have the front bulkhead removed for this repair, you may want to inspect the felt that lines it. If the felt is damaged, it is recommended that you replace it at the same time. You will need a rivet tool for this installation, as well as a stubby Phillips screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, and a drill with a 1/8-inch bit.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
John from Charlottesville, VA
Belt broke on old machine.
1. Removed front of machine (2 screws at the bottom).2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.
3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.
4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.
5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.
6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.
7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.
8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).
9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.
I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.
In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.
I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine. Read more...
Your Price
$16.60
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Fixes these symptoms
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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Your Price
$21.92
Dryer Drum Support Roller
2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-connect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11752609
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10314173
This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the drum roller only and does not include the tri-rings. This part is sold separately. Most dryers require two drum rollers. It is recommended to check and replace both drum support rollers at the same time to ensure proper drum rotation and because they often wear at the same rate. The drum support roller holds the drum in the proper position while it spins on the support wheels. If rollers are worn out, they will cause the dryer to be noisy. This repair has been rated as "medium" difficulty by our customers, generally taking between 30 and 60 minutes. Make sure to disconnect the power, gas, vent lines before commencing this repair. You may require a nut driver, pliers, screwdriver, and wrench for this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- Will not tumble
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jeff from Phoenix, AZ
noisy and slow drum speed
1. disconnect power,gas and vent lines2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-connect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products Read more...
Your Price
$9.48
Roller Shaft
PartSelect Number PS11743031
Manufacturer Part Number WP6-3129480
This roller shaft is also known as a support roller shaft or a drum roller axle, and is a part for your dryer. The function of this piece is to act as the axle for the drum roller; it provides a place for the roller to spin. The tools required for this repair are a stubby Phillips screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, a pair of snap ring pliers, and a 9/16 wrench. The first step before replacing this part should be to disconnect your dryer from the power source.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- Will not tumble
- See more...
Installation Instructions
gerald from park city, MT
dryer squeeking
removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.
Read more...
Your Price
$22.12
Blower Wheel with Clamp
PartSelect Number PS2200270
Manufacturer Part Number Y303836
This comes with a metallic hub clamp to hold it firmly in place. The blower wheel with clamp is part of your dryer assembly. You will find this part attached to the drive motor shaft, which disperses air through the drum and out of the exhaust vent. This part might need to be replaced if you notice your dryer is taking too long to dry clothing, it is not tumbling, or is making any unusually loud noises. The blower wheel measures about 7.5 inches in diameter by 3-3/8 wide. The blower wheel can be accessed by removing the front panel of your appliance.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Lafayette, IN
The blower fan (nylon) stripped off the motor shaft (steel)
Removed the front cover (screws on bottom 0f face)...removed blower cover....spring pliers to remove and install blower fan. the rest of the time was spent cleaning the inside of the shell as well as the vent. Reassembled and dryer runs better than it has for many years.
Read more...
Appliance Type
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- Maytag Dryer Knobs
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- Maytag Dryer Panels
- Maytag Dryer Pulleys
- Maytag Dryer Seals and Gaskets
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- Maytag Dryer Switches
- Maytag Dryer Thermostats
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- Maytag Dryer Wire Plugs and Connectors
Popular Maytag Dryer Models
Below are the most popular Maytag Dryer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
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- MDE9316AYW Residential, Electric, Gas
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