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Popular Maytag Dryer Parts
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 i
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nch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. If your dryer is damaged, it may be making loud, squeaking, and/or squealing noises while the drum is turning. This is from normal wear and tear. The drum may eventually stop turning all together. This is a sign the part should be replaced. This is one complete maintenance kit. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. The parts are constructed of plastic, metal, and rubber, and come in black/white/silver.
The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. If your dryer is damaged, it may be making loud, squeaking, and/or squealing noises while the drum is turning. This is from normal wear and tear. The drum may eventually stop turning all together. This is a sign the part should be replaced. This is one complete maintenance kit. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. The parts are constructed of plastic, metal, and rubber, and come in black/white/silver.
What this part fixes:
- Drum Not Spinning
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Marks left on clothes
Installation Instructions
DENNIS from ALTOONA, FL
Broken drive belt
Grow a second set of hands. Always unplug any appliance. Remove lint screen. remove two screws (philips Head). I took a wooden shim lightly tapped w/hammer to pop front of dryer top free. Mine worked on hinges and just flipped back til it rested against the wall. Removed two 5/16 screws inside holding face on carefully raise face section
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off the support clips at either side on the bottom. Pull drum out (I have the large style drum commercial size [approx.). Clean the inside free of all lint (known to be fire hazard). Sling new belt around drum. Get newly grown set of hands to hold drum in place. Pinch belt to fit between tensioner, lift tensioner and place belt around motor pulley. Spin drum couple times to make certain belt isn't twisted. Reverse dismantle proccess to put back together. Replace all parts that come with kit, you'll feel better knowing you got a new dryer, almost.
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The heating element (Flat Can Heating Element 5400W, Heating Element, Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, Dryer Heating Element) provides heat to the dryer. It is metal and measures 10.5 inches long, 7.5 inches wide, 2 inches deep. The element attaches to the heater housing. This part can break as a result of wear and tear. This can be material fatigue or prolonged high temperature exposure. If broken your clothes may not dry because of a lack of heat. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. First check the thermal fuse on the blower housing before deciding to replace the heating element.
The heating element (Flat Can Heating Element 5400W, Heating Element, Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, Dryer Heating Element) provides heat to the dryer. It is metal and measures 10.5 inches long, 7.5 inches wide, 2 inches deep. The element attaches to the heater housing. This part can break as a result of wear and tear. This can be material fatigue or prolonged high temperature exposure. If broken your clothes may not dry because of a lack of heat. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. First check the thermal fuse on the blower housing before deciding to replace the heating element.
Installation Instructions
Gadi from Irvine, CA
Dryer motor runs, but no heat
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element wi ... Read more th an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Good luck.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element wi ... Read more th an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Good luck.
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The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
Installation Instructions
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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This Whirlpool Dryer Repair Kit is a convenient solution for fixing noise and drum movement problems in 27-inch dryers. Compatible with models from Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and more, the kit includes a drive belt, drum support rollers, an idler pulley, mounting clips, and a washer. It’s designed for straightforward installation using standard tools, and should only be installed after disconnecting power. Ideal for restoring smooth, quiet dryer performance, this kit combines essential components in one package to save time and effort during repairs.
Installation requires disassembling the dryer to replace parts using standard tools. Ensure the dryer is unplugged before starting. This durable OEM kit provides reliable repairs for quieter, more efficient operation.
This Whirlpool Dryer Repair Kit is a convenient solution for fixing noise and drum movement problems in 27-inch dryers. Compatible with models from Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, and more, the kit includes a drive belt, drum support rollers, an idler pulley, mounting clips, and a washer. It’s designed for straightforward installation using standard tools, and should only be installed after disconnecting power. Ideal for restoring smooth, quiet dryer performance, this kit combines essential components in one package to save time and effort during repairs.
Installation requires disassembling the dryer to replace parts using standard tools. Ensure the dryer is unplugged before starting. This durable OEM kit provides reliable repairs for quieter, more efficient operation.
Installation Instructions
jason from HOLDEN, MA
very loud squeeling sound
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to re
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move and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
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OVER 2 MILLION PARTS TO ENSURE VICTORY
The drum support roller (Dryer Drum Support Roller, Drum Roller and Washer Assembly) holds the drum in the proper position while it spins on the support wheels. This part rotates on the roller shaft which is attached to the rear bulkhead. This part should be replaced whenever it does not rotate easily on the roller shaft. If you’re noticing a thump, scrape, or squeal while your drum is spinning, it may be your drum support rollers. Take a look at your existing drum rollers; if one or both of them are worn or broken, you’ll need to replace them. The drum support roller is subject to constant wearing when your dryer is in use, which causes them to break down over time. This part features 1 roller and 2 small washers, and measures approximately 3 inches in diameter. It is constructed with a combination of plastic, metal and rubber. This model comes in black/beige.
The drum support roller (Dryer Drum Support Roller, Drum Roller and Washer Assembly) holds the drum in the proper position while it spins on the support wheels. This part rotates on the roller shaft which is attached to the rear bulkhead. This part should be replaced whenever it does not rotate easily on the roller shaft. If you’re noticing a thump, scrape, or squeal while your drum is spinning, it may be your drum support rollers. Take a look at your existing drum rollers; if one or both of them are worn or broken, you’ll need to replace them. The drum support roller is subject to constant wearing when your dryer is in use, which causes them to break down over time. This part features 1 roller and 2 small washers, and measures approximately 3 inches in diameter. It is constructed with a combination of plastic, metal and rubber. This model comes in black/beige.
Installation Instructions
gerry from west covina,, CA
noisy rollers, broken latch
first, I unplug the power supply of the dryer then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the dryer then pulled out the front part of the dryer,unplugged the blue & yellow wire for the on/off switch for the door,at the back of the dryer I unscrew the pannel for the belt,disconect the belt,and I unscrew the four screws on both side of t
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he front pannel to remove the front cover of the drum. Once I removed the front cover of the drum I can now remove the drum itself to access the drum support roller. I unscrew the rollers then replace it with the new once. It was an easy job.
Thank you.
Thank you.
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When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside the heater housing inside the dryer. Wear and tear on the heater coil from use will eventually cause the coil to break and the element to fail. When this part fails it can cease to produce any heat. Alternately, the coil could break and short to ground allowing the dryer to continue to heat even when turned off. The latter is a fire hazard and the dryer should be disconnected from power until the element is replaced. If the element coil breaks, the element needs to be replaced. This model is 11 by 5 inches with 5/16” terminals, metal and ceramic, and comes in black. It is sold individually.
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside the heater housing inside the dryer. Wear and tear on the heater coil from use will eventually cause the coil to break and the element to fail. When this part fails it can cease to produce any heat. Alternately, the coil could break and short to ground allowing the dryer to continue to heat even when turned off. The latter is a fire hazard and the dryer should be disconnected from power until the element is replaced. If the element coil breaks, the element needs to be replaced. This model is 11 by 5 inches with 5/16” terminals, metal and ceramic, and comes in black. It is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Alan from Brooksville, FL
Burned out heater element
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in a
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n open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
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This genuine OEM dryer drum support roller is designed to hold the drum in place while allowing it to rotate smoothly and quietly during operation. Built for durability and reliable performance, it helps reduce noise and ensures consistent tumbling. Ideal for replacing worn or damaged rollers, it resolves issues such as squeaking, rumbling, or poor drum movement, helping restore efficient and dependable dryer operation.
This genuine OEM dryer drum support roller is designed to hold the drum in place while allowing it to rotate smoothly and quietly during operation. Built for durability and reliable performance, it helps reduce noise and ensures consistent tumbling. Ideal for replacing worn or damaged rollers, it resolves issues such as squeaking, rumbling, or poor drum movement, helping restore efficient and dependable dryer operation.
Installation Instructions
Jeff from Phoenix, AZ
noisy and slow drum speed
1. disconnect power,gas and vent lines
2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-co ... Read more nnect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products
2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-co ... Read more nnect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products
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This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.
This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.
What this part fixes:
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Timer Not Working
Installation Instructions
Tom from High Point, NC
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
This dryer door switch is a simple on/off switch mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open, and operates the drum light. White in color and 6.5 inches long, this OEM switch is comprised of plastic and metal, and features the switch and three wires that comprise the part. Sold individually, this part attaches to the inside of the top end of the front panel. One end attaches to the wiring harness, the other goes through the panel to make contact with the door when the door is closed. Over time, this part can be subject to material fatigue or breakage due to frequent use or rough handling. If it breaks or is defective, you won't be able to start or stop your drying cycle, depending on the position your switch broke in. The easiest way to test this part for functionality is to test it by hand. Push on the black tab that sticks out of the front panel to make contact with your dryer door; if there is no resistance in the tab and it doesn't make a click sound, you may need to replace it.
This dryer door switch is a simple on/off switch mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open, and operates the drum light. White in color and 6.5 inches long, this OEM switch is comprised of plastic and metal, and features the switch and three wires that comprise the part. Sold individually, this part attaches to the inside of the top end of the front panel. One end attaches to the wiring harness, the other goes through the panel to make contact with the door when the door is closed. Over time, this part can be subject to material fatigue or breakage due to frequent use or rough handling. If it breaks or is defective, you won't be able to start or stop your drying cycle, depending on the position your switch broke in. The easiest way to test this part for functionality is to test it by hand. Push on the black tab that sticks out of the front panel to make contact with your dryer door; if there is no resistance in the tab and it doesn't make a click sound, you may need to replace it.
Installation Instructions
pat from lisbon,, OH
door switch was bad
i was able to go on line with your company , find my dryer, order the part and had it the next day. fast , great , service
Genuine OEM Maytag Dryer Parts
Maytag dryers have been a popular household choice among consumers for decades. These machines are known for their durability and affordability. If your Maytag dryer is having difficulties heating up and drying clothes properly, or it is suddenly banging, shaky, and unstable when you are using it, we are here to help!
PartSelect has been helping customers with their home repairs since 1945. So, trust us when we say that there’s no need to rush and purchase a whole new dryer. You can repair your Maytag dryer instead and save yourself some time and money. Take advantage of our expert-approved repair guides, which are designed to help you troubleshoot a variety of dryer problems. Browse our extensive catalog of Maytag dryer parts to find the exact part you need from our extensive inventory. From lint filters, and drums to sensors and timers, PartSelect has you covered.
- Fit
- Quality
- Warranty
Common Maytag Dryer Issues and DIY Fixes
Maytag dryers are reliable, so it might seem overwhelming if problems arise. But there is no need to worry, troubleshooting and fixing these common issues is simple. Dryers have a lot of moving parts, so it is not odd for parts to wear out and need replacement after years of dedicated service. We walk you through the parts you will need to check to solve these problems.
Noisy Maytag Dryer – Identifying the sound your Maytag dryer is making is the first step towards fixing the issue. The sound it is making will give you the information you need to find the root cause. For instance, if you hear squeaking there is a good chance this is coming from a rotating part like the idler pulley, drum bearings, or roller. If you hear grinding it could be that the drum glide or seal has been worn down from the friction, and now the drum is making contact with the frame of the appliance. The most common dryer noises are squeaking, thumping or banging, and grinding. Some of the most common parts that cause noisy Maytag dryers are the drive belt and pulley, the drum rollers and bearing, and the blower wheel.
Maytag Dryer Will Not Start – A Maytag dryer not starting and not turning on are two different issues, both of which we can help with. If it is not turning on at all, that indicates there is an electronics issue or a power failure. A power failure is most likely, so start by inspecting the power cord, outlet, breaker, and fuses that are linked to the dryer. If your Maytag dryer turns on but a cycle will not start, it may be an issue with the door switch, which is a safety feature. Your dryer will not run if it thinks the door is open, so you should be looking to see if the part is broken, faulty, or obstructed. If you have ruled out the door switch you will then want to test and inspect the thermal fuse, start switch, timer, and thermostats.
Maytag Dryer Not Heating Properly – There are few issues as frustrating as heating issues, especially if you are running cycle after cycle trying to get your clothes to dry. But if your Maytag dryer is not heating properly or at all it could just be a sign you need to check the airflow and clean out your vents. Keeping the exhaust vents clear will solve this problem, and it will help reduce the risk of any hazards as well. Vent cleaning should be part of your routine dryer maintenance. If you have ruled out airflow issues you should then move on to inspecting the heating element, thermal fuse, power cord, and thermostats.
Maytag Dryer Will Not Tumble – Before you start opening your appliance to inspect and test parts you should make sure you are loading your Maytag dryer properly. If you overload the appliance the drive motor will not have enough power to rotate the drum. If you routinely do this it could cause bigger issues as you overwork the motor. If you have ruled this out the part most likely to be causing this is the drive belt. Stick your hand into the drum and rotate it, if it rotates too freely that is a sign you have an issue with the drive belt. It might be broken or stretched. If it is not the belt, we recommend you test the motor to see if that is faulty.
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