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Your Price 18.40
  In Stock
M Series New Style Coil Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(102)
PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834
This is an M series new style coil kit, used in gas dryers. When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils work together to let the gas enter the dryer. The coils open the gas valve; if the valve does not open the heating element will not ignite. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. This kit comes with a three-terminal boost/hold coil, and a two-terminal main coil. Each part is approximately 1 1/4 inches in diameter. If the igniter glows but shuts off without igniting gas, it means one of the two valves is faulty. We recommend you replace these as a set. Before you begin this repair, unplug your appliance and shut off the gas supply.
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Shuts off too soon
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!
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Your Price 14.72
  In Stock
Multi Rib Belt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(89)
PartSelect Number PS11742271
Manufacturer Part Number WP40111201
This dryer drum drive belt attaches to the motor pully and works the drum as the motor rotates. The belt has a length of 93- 3/6 inches, and wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pully. Replacing the rib belt could solve symptoms such as a screeching noise when the dryer tumbles, a broken belt (dryer will not tumble if its broken), no heat or not enough heat, or the dryer will not start. The tools needed for this repair are a nut driver and a putty knife. Remember to unplug the dryer before installing the part and protect your hands by wearing gloves.
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Robert from Skokie, IL
Replace drive belt
Remove front panel, lint basket, motor mounts,exhaust hood, front drum brackets. Then slip serpentine belt around drum, pressure w/ tension idler pulley and slip around drive motor spindle. Replace all parts in reverse order (a two person job).
Vacuumed inside of dryer (full of lint.)
Read more...
Your Price 9.72
  In Stock
Drum Support Roller
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect Number PS11741913
Manufacturer Part Number WP37001042
This drum support roller is used for square-ported model clothes dryers. This part is sold individually; however, rollers tend to wear at the same rate, so it is suggested that both should be replaced at the same time. It has a metallic bearing in its center. The drum support roller holds the drum in place while it rotates on the support wheels. You may have a faulty or damaged roller if your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry clothes, or starts making loud noises. Customers have ranked this repair as easy and should take 15-30 minutes to complete.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Noisy
  • Takes too long to dry
  • Will Not Start
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Chris from Hopedale, MA
Drum not centered , clothes getting stuck in dryer
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it. Read more...
Your Price 16.80
  In Stock
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
★★★★★
★★★★★
(276)
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This multi rib belt is an important part in your dryer, it is what helps rotate the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. As the armature of the motor rotates, the belt begins to move and turns the drum. If you notice the drum of your dryer is not spinning during the dry cycle, but you hear the motor running, your belt may have snapped and it will need to be replaced. This belt features four ribs and three grooves, however it replaces a wide variety of belts including wider styles that had five ribs and four grooves. When installing this part make sure the grooves are facing down, against the drum. This replacement part is 92 1/4 inches in length, and 1/4 inch wide. Before you begin any repair work, make sure your dryer has been unplugged.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Heat stays on after drum has stopped
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself. Read more...
Your Price 6.26
  In Stock
Thrust Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect Number PS11740482
Manufacturer Part Number WP233520
This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found on dryers around the drum support rollers and idler pulleys, and helps prevent the rollers and pulleys from bumping up against the brackets they are installed on. Your thrust washer could be defective if you notice your dryer wont tumble, rotate, or turn; or there is a load squealing or whining noise when the dryer tumbles. The repair is a relatively easy job. You will require a putty knife, 5/16 inch nut driver, and E-Ring pliers. Remember to disconnect the power to your dryer before you begin the repair.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Burning smell
  • Noisy
  • Pumps but will not spin
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Chris from Hopedale, MA
Drum not centered , clothes getting stuck in dryer
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it. Read more...
Your Price 9.63
  In Stock
Drum Glide
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect Number PS11741931
Manufacturer Part Number WP37001298
If your dryer is noisy, will not tumble, or is leaving marks on your clothes, you may need to replace the drum glide. The drum glide is installed on the front bulkhead either at the top or the bottom, regardless of the brand of dryer. To gain access to the drum glide, you will have to open the cabinet on the dryer. This drum glide is sold individually but it is important to note that they should be replaced in pairs. Before beginning this repair, it is important to disconnect the dryer from the power source. The tools required for this repair are a putty knife and a 5/16 nut driver.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • Noisy
  • Will not tumble
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
David from Underwood, IA
Loud banging sound. Worn out roller.
Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all. Read more...
Your Price 10.26
  In Stock
Idler Pulley Wheel with Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
PartSelect Number PS11757553
Manufacturer Part Number WPY54414
The idler pulley wheel helps the belt to rotate the drum in your dryer. If your dryer will not start, will not tumble, or is noisy during operation, the idler pulley wheel may need to be replaced. This part is located beneath the drum of the dryer, so the drum will need to be removed before you can access the idler pulley wheel. It is also recommended to remove the blower housing and motor from the dryer itself, for easier access to the idler pulley wheel. It is connected by a set of two 5/16 screws. This two-inch-wide idler pulley wheel is beige or black in color and is made of plastic. This pulley wheel comes with its own metallic bearing in its center. Be sure to shut off power to the dryer before beginning this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
William from Round Mountain, NV
Squeeling/Screeching
First I read all of the other stories about this problem so I would have the correct parts. At $6 a roller, decided to get all 3 & a belt. Pulled the lower panel off (2 bolts), then the door (2 bolts). Marked the door switch wires. Took 2 bolts out of the top & tilted it back. I found this the easiest way to access the drum. Mark 2 wires before disconnecting them from the top. All bolts are 5/16". Removed the plastic piece that connects the lint trap to the blower (3 screws). Have to access these from inside the drum. Removed the belt, then the drum. The bad roller was the belt tension roller. Can't get to the snap ring from the front of the dryer for this roller. The 2 rollers in the back you can get to without removing the drum completely. Very easy to replace all rollers with the drum out. Also very easy to re-assemble. Buy or borrow a good set of snap ring pliers. Make sure you diagram the proper belt route if you don't have a picture. I printed a picture off this web site. Have someone hold the drum up so you can get the belt on, otherwise the entire repair is a 1 person job. Went back together in about 10 minutes. Total cost $40.00 parts & shipping. Read more...
Your Price 16.03
  In Stock
Dryer Cycling Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(78)
PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees, turns off, and then turns on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, it could indicate an issue with the thermostat. The installation of the cycling thermostat is simple and the only tool required is a 1/4 inch nut driver (and gloves for safety).
Fixes these symptoms
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Shuts off too soon
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Tom from High Point, NC
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise! Read more...
Your Price 24.03
  In Stock
Cylinder Felt Seal
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
PartSelect Number PS11741917
Manufacturer Part Number WP37001132
This cylinder felt seal is used in dryers and is located between the back of the drum and the rear dryer panel. If your dryer is experiencing any of these symptoms, replacing the felt seal could solve your problem: squealing or banging noise, clothes are getting stuck between tub and felt pad, takes too long to dry, not heating enough or not heat at all, or does not tumble. The tools needed for this installation are a 5/16 nut driver and a putty knife. Make sure to unplug the dryer from the power source before beginning this project. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further instructions.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Marks left on clothes
  • No heat or not enough heat
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Tim from South Glens Falls, NY
The Felt Gasket between drum and door ripped, vent manifold from Dryer to fan and lint screen broken
I pulled the bottom panel and the door panel to replace the manifold and felt gasket around the drum. I removed old gasket very easily, it peeled right off. I use brake cleaning fluid (Spray Can from Auto Zone about $1.45) to remove old glue. Used spray contact cement (Elmer's about 4.50 at Ace) and sprayed the panel and gasket surfaces and let dry. I then applied a 2nd coat and let get "tacky" and installed the gasket. You will need an extra set of hands to hold the gasket in place while you stretch it over the the panel. The vent manifold is held in place with 3 phillips screws and was installed in about 10 minutes. The only gripe I had was in the Parts-Select illustrated breakdown they don't tell you the lint screen comes with the manifold assembly, so I bought one of them too. Now have an extra lint screen Read more...
Your Price 19.23
  In Stock
Door Catch Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
PartSelect Number PS2162263
Manufacturer Part Number LA-1003
This door catch kit is designed for use in dryers. This is an authentic OEM replacement part. This catch assembly ensures the door of your appliance will close, and remain closed. It allows your appliance to both start and complete a full drying cycle. There are two pieces included in this kit, one catch, and one strike. You open and close the door on such a regular basis that this mechanism can wear out. It is a fairly common part to replace. You will need to remove the door of your dryer to install the replacement catch assembly.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Door won’t close
  • Shuts off too soon
  • Takes too long to dry
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Paul from Mt. Pleasant, SC
catch mounted on door broke
The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in. Read more...

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