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This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving, that is a sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 88 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving, that is a sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 88 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
Cynthia from Lexington, SC
Squealing noise
We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle.
This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if it is making a lot of noise, it could be an issue with this part. This is a ball-and-socket style bearing. You will need to replace this if the bushing has worn out, or if the ball support is damaged. This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws. Unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if it is making a lot of noise, it could be an issue with this part. This is a ball-and-socket style bearing. You will need to replace this if the bushing has worn out, or if the ball support is damaged. This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws. Unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
charles from new holland, OH
Dryer squealed like a pig and at times the drum stopped rotating
First thought the problem was a stretched drum belt or bad idler pulley. Ordered a new belt and idler assy plus spring. Replaced those items with relative ease following suggestions obtained at this site.However, problem persisted and I now suspected a bad drum bearing. Odered the bearing kit and replaced same using the following procedu
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re.
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on.
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on.
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The door catch on your dryer is an important part as it keeps your dryer door closed, in order to ensure no air or clothes can escape. This part works by holding the door strike, which allows the door to stay secure. Before you begin this repair make sure to disconnect the power supply to the dryer. The tools you will need for this installation include a Phillips screwdriver and a small flat blade screwdriver. A pair of pliers may also come in handy. Users ranked this repair as easy, and say that it will take fifteen minutes or less to complete.
The door catch on your dryer is an important part as it keeps your dryer door closed, in order to ensure no air or clothes can escape. This part works by holding the door strike, which allows the door to stay secure. Before you begin this repair make sure to disconnect the power supply to the dryer. The tools you will need for this installation include a Phillips screwdriver and a small flat blade screwdriver. A pair of pliers may also come in handy. Users ranked this repair as easy, and say that it will take fifteen minutes or less to complete.
Installation Instructions
Glenda from Covington, LA
hinges had broken over time
easily found correct parts at good price on parts select, ordered. Received the next day and repairs went smoothly, about 20 min and we were good as new.Saved us a repairman visit. thanks.
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet. You will need to remove the dryer drum before completing this repair. Although replacing the drum support bearing is a fairly easy job, you will need tools to complete it. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, a Phillips screw driver, a 5/16 nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screw driver.
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet. You will need to remove the dryer drum before completing this repair. Although replacing the drum support bearing is a fairly easy job, you will need tools to complete it. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, a Phillips screw driver, a 5/16 nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screw driver.
Installation Instructions
Cynthia from Lexington, SC
Squealing noise
We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle.
This dryer heating element produces heat to dry clothes and is located in the rear of a dryer. If the heater element is burned, the dryer does not heat or over heats, or clothes are taking too long to dry, replacing this part could solve your problem. The tools needed for this repair project are a Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, and needle nose pliers. To repair, first remove the main top of the dryer and ground strap at the rear. Disconnect the two wire harnesses and remove the screws that hold the front panel to the cabinet, in order to pull out the front panel. Now that you have access to the inside of the dryer, refer to the manual for further installation instructions and detailed guidance. Remember to unplug your appliance from the power source before beginning this repair project.
This dryer heating element produces heat to dry clothes and is located in the rear of a dryer. If the heater element is burned, the dryer does not heat or over heats, or clothes are taking too long to dry, replacing this part could solve your problem. The tools needed for this repair project are a Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, and needle nose pliers. To repair, first remove the main top of the dryer and ground strap at the rear. Disconnect the two wire harnesses and remove the screws that hold the front panel to the cabinet, in order to pull out the front panel. Now that you have access to the inside of the dryer, refer to the manual for further installation instructions and detailed guidance. Remember to unplug your appliance from the power source before beginning this repair project.
Installation Instructions
Juan Carlos from Weston, FL
short circuit with a brasier metal support
Disconect the dryer from the main power source.
1) Remove the two screws from the rear / upper panel (below the control panel).
2) Snap the front side using a flat head screw driver.
3) On the inside front, remove two screws (one on each side) from the upper side and snap the door assembly off.
... Read more 4) Remove the rear motor access panel (two screws) and appying tension to the spring remove the belt.
5) Pull the drum upwards (verticaly) unnapping it from the rear wall and remove it horizontally through the front panel.
6) Disconect the four leads to the heating element and remove the four screws from the rear of the dryer and replace the heating element.
Follow the same steps backwards to put the dryer together again.
1) Remove the two screws from the rear / upper panel (below the control panel).
2) Snap the front side using a flat head screw driver.
3) On the inside front, remove two screws (one on each side) from the upper side and snap the door assembly off.
... Read more 4) Remove the rear motor access panel (two screws) and appying tension to the spring remove the belt.
5) Pull the drum upwards (verticaly) unnapping it from the rear wall and remove it horizontally through the front panel.
6) Disconect the four leads to the heating element and remove the four screws from the rear of the dryer and replace the heating element.
Follow the same steps backwards to put the dryer together again.
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The dryer thermal limiter, also known as a thermal fuse, blows the fuse to cut off power to the dryer when the dryer begins to overheat. Once the dryer reached 220 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat cuts out. If the thermal fuse is defective, damaged, or blown up then the dryer wont start, especially since it cannot be reset. It must be replaced if the following symptoms occur: the dryer overheats, takes too long to dry clothes, or there is not enough heat in the dryer. The tools needed for this repair are, a screwdriver, putty knife and needle-nose pliers. This part is manufactured for both gas and electric dryers.
The dryer thermal limiter, also known as a thermal fuse, blows the fuse to cut off power to the dryer when the dryer begins to overheat. Once the dryer reached 220 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat cuts out. If the thermal fuse is defective, damaged, or blown up then the dryer wont start, especially since it cannot be reset. It must be replaced if the following symptoms occur: the dryer overheats, takes too long to dry clothes, or there is not enough heat in the dryer. The tools needed for this repair are, a screwdriver, putty knife and needle-nose pliers. This part is manufactured for both gas and electric dryers.
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Newnan, GA
Thermal Limiter opened
Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.
This high limit thermostat is used in a dryer and monitors the temperature to make sure it does not exceed 260 degrees Fahrenheit. When your dryer temperature reaches 260 it will cut it out and only comes back when it drops by at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. If your dryer is overheating, taking too long to dry clothes, or is not producing enough heat, replacing the thermostat could be the solution to your problem. The tools needed for this part are a Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, and needle nose pliers. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for installation instructions and guidance.
This high limit thermostat is used in a dryer and monitors the temperature to make sure it does not exceed 260 degrees Fahrenheit. When your dryer temperature reaches 260 it will cut it out and only comes back when it drops by at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. If your dryer is overheating, taking too long to dry clothes, or is not producing enough heat, replacing the thermostat could be the solution to your problem. The tools needed for this part are a Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, and needle nose pliers. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for installation instructions and guidance.
Installation Instructions
MELISSA from OKEECHOBEE, FL
dryer does not get very hot, takes two cycle's to dry
removed the screws, disconnected the wires. installed the new elements replaced the wires.
The front lower drum seal is used in the assembly of dryers. This seal helps keep your appliance running quietly. It allows the drum to smoothly rotate on the front panel. If you notice brown marks on your clothing, if the dry cycle is taking long, or if there are unusually loud noises, the seal might be worn down. If that is the case, you will need to replace the seal. This replacement part is made out of felt. The high temperature adhesive required to install this seal is sold separately. Before you begin any repair work, make sure the appliance has been unplugged.
The front lower drum seal is used in the assembly of dryers. This seal helps keep your appliance running quietly. It allows the drum to smoothly rotate on the front panel. If you notice brown marks on your clothing, if the dry cycle is taking long, or if there are unusually loud noises, the seal might be worn down. If that is the case, you will need to replace the seal. This replacement part is made out of felt. The high temperature adhesive required to install this seal is sold separately. Before you begin any repair work, make sure the appliance has been unplugged.
Installation Instructions
Dan from Portland, OR
Brown spots on clothing
I was getting brown spots on my clothing since I bought this used dryer. Went to partselect.com Fine with me, but not my wife and daughter! Anyway, after ruling out rust, I ended up here and found Randy's story - without it, I'd be lost! Basically, the felt seal crushes over time, and clothing gets caught in the gap stuck against this
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nasty old brown felt and leaves a mark.
Replacing the belt was a very good idea, though as mentioned, the drum support bearing is just a "nice to do" - not necessary, but it gives you the excuse to re-grease it (I used a thick Molly impregnated grease from my motorcycle).
The only other advice I can give is that I used a chisel to scrape off the old felt - it came off in very little time, and I didn't end up needing to really do much cleaning of the drum afterwards. Just use a sharp one you're not afraid to dull - it'll be metal-on-metal contact.
Using the spring-loaded clamps that you can get from the hardware store was also a huge help - it just needs to keep the upper glide stuck to the drum for the 30 minutes for the glue to cure - I used 6, but 3 would work. The bottom seal doesn't need them as the felt will tend to stick to the drum when the glue is applied.
You might not NEED to replace the lower seal, but I'd suggest it. It's cheap enough, and this job is "not fun" enough that it only adds a few minutes total - good insurance that you do a complete job.
You also might want to get some aluminum foil tape and re-tape your blower extension tube - mine was ripped off from moving from house to house over the years.
Replacing the belt was a very good idea, though as mentioned, the drum support bearing is just a "nice to do" - not necessary, but it gives you the excuse to re-grease it (I used a thick Molly impregnated grease from my motorcycle).
The only other advice I can give is that I used a chisel to scrape off the old felt - it came off in very little time, and I didn't end up needing to really do much cleaning of the drum afterwards. Just use a sharp one you're not afraid to dull - it'll be metal-on-metal contact.
Using the spring-loaded clamps that you can get from the hardware store was also a huge help - it just needs to keep the upper glide stuck to the drum for the 30 minutes for the glue to cure - I used 6, but 3 would work. The bottom seal doesn't need them as the felt will tend to stick to the drum when the glue is applied.
You might not NEED to replace the lower seal, but I'd suggest it. It's cheap enough, and this job is "not fun" enough that it only adds a few minutes total - good insurance that you do a complete job.
You also might want to get some aluminum foil tape and re-tape your blower extension tube - mine was ripped off from moving from house to house over the years.
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This kit contains two coils, one is a two-wire secondary coil and the other is a three-wire booster coil. Both coils in the ignition coil kit should be used together in the clothes dryer. Some of the symptoms that this kit could be a solution for are: If there is no heat, not enough heat, or clothes takes too long to dry. In this case, the gas valve coils can be defective and replacing this part will help. Customers rate this project as easy. Refer to the installation diagram for further instructions. For safety, unplug your dryer before repair.
This kit contains two coils, one is a two-wire secondary coil and the other is a three-wire booster coil. Both coils in the ignition coil kit should be used together in the clothes dryer. Some of the symptoms that this kit could be a solution for are: If there is no heat, not enough heat, or clothes takes too long to dry. In this case, the gas valve coils can be defective and replacing this part will help. Customers rate this project as easy. Refer to the installation diagram for further instructions. For safety, unplug your dryer before repair.
Installation Instructions
Brett from Monticello, MN
Dryer would heat initially then cool down
The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils we
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re easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.
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This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open. The most common issue that might arise that would indicate the flame sensor needs to be replaced is your dryer is not giving off enough heat. If your clothes are not drying at a reasonable time, this might be your first indication of an issue. You will need to remove the two screws underneath the lint cover to remove the top of the appliance. Release the door switch wiring, remove the front panel, and remove the belt off the pully. You should now be able to completely remove the drum from the dryer. This will give you access to the sensor for the repair.
This part senses the flame for heat allowing the gas valve to open. The most common issue that might arise that would indicate the flame sensor needs to be replaced is your dryer is not giving off enough heat. If your clothes are not drying at a reasonable time, this might be your first indication of an issue. You will need to remove the two screws underneath the lint cover to remove the top of the appliance. Release the door switch wiring, remove the front panel, and remove the belt off the pully. You should now be able to completely remove the drum from the dryer. This will give you access to the sensor for the repair.
Installation Instructions
Dirk from Sonoma, CA
dryer won't stay hot, gas smell
Pulled unit out from wall to access back panel. Top needs to be removed to get to the screws that hold on the front panel and door. These need to be removed to get to the valve and burner.
Once your in, the sensor, thermostat, and igniter are right up front. Sensor and thermostat were easy, the igniter breaks very easily... ... Read more how do I know? Cause I broke the one I bought and had to get a new one.
I also replaced the coil set for the gas valve, because I had read that they can go bad and cause a gas fume smell. The coils are cheap, so you may as well as do them at the same time.
Anyway, once the repair was complete, I reassembled the unit and hooked up the vent.
Runs like new, and the clothes dry quickly.
Once your in, the sensor, thermostat, and igniter are right up front. Sensor and thermostat were easy, the igniter breaks very easily... ... Read more how do I know? Cause I broke the one I bought and had to get a new one.
I also replaced the coil set for the gas valve, because I had read that they can go bad and cause a gas fume smell. The coils are cheap, so you may as well as do them at the same time.
Anyway, once the repair was complete, I reassembled the unit and hooked up the vent.
Runs like new, and the clothes dry quickly.
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