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This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving, that is a sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 88 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving, that is a sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 88 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
Cynthia from Lexington, SC
Squealing noise
We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle.
This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if it is making a lot of noise, it could be an issue with this part. This is a ball-and-socket style bearing. You will need to replace this if the bushing has worn out, or if the ball support is damaged. This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws. Unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
This rear drum bearing kit is designed for use with dryers. It supports the rear of the drum in your appliance as it tumbles your clothes during the drying cycle. If your drum will not tumble, or if it is making a lot of noise, it could be an issue with this part. This is a ball-and-socket style bearing. You will need to replace this if the bushing has worn out, or if the ball support is damaged. This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant and installation screws. Unplug your dryer before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
charles from new holland, OH
Dryer squealed like a pig and at times the drum stopped rotating
First thought the problem was a stretched drum belt or bad idler pulley. Ordered a new belt and idler assy plus spring. Replaced those items with relative ease following suggestions obtained at this site.However, problem persisted and I now suspected a bad drum bearing. Odered the bearing kit and replaced same using the following procedu
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re.
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on.
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on.
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This dryer belt is one of the most important parts in a dryer and is what allows the dryer drum to spin/rotate. If the dryer belt is damaged or broken, the drum will not spin or will have difficulty in doing so, and your clothes will still be damp after a cycle as a result. This belt is made of durable material and can wear down over time and extended use of the dryer. Replacing a dryer belt will require some disassembly of your dryer, so a screwdriver and wrench will be needed to access and replace it. This belt is an individual OEM part.
This dryer belt is one of the most important parts in a dryer and is what allows the dryer drum to spin/rotate. If the dryer belt is damaged or broken, the drum will not spin or will have difficulty in doing so, and your clothes will still be damp after a cycle as a result. This belt is made of durable material and can wear down over time and extended use of the dryer. Replacing a dryer belt will require some disassembly of your dryer, so a screwdriver and wrench will be needed to access and replace it. This belt is an individual OEM part.
Installation Instructions
Philip from Oakland, CA
Noisy Dryer
When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replac
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ing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)
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This part is a heater, but may also be known as a heating element, and it is meant for your dryer. This is where the heat is generated during your machine cycle in order to properly dry your clothing. This model is a 5500 watt, and has three coils. If your heater is broken, that usually means there is a break in the coil element.If you are having trouble drying your clothes, you may want to check for a thermal cut out or a blown thermal fuse. For this repair you will need a number two square bit, a Phillips screwdriver, and a flat-head screwdriver.
This part is a heater, but may also be known as a heating element, and it is meant for your dryer. This is where the heat is generated during your machine cycle in order to properly dry your clothing. This model is a 5500 watt, and has three coils. If your heater is broken, that usually means there is a break in the coil element.If you are having trouble drying your clothes, you may want to check for a thermal cut out or a blown thermal fuse. For this repair you will need a number two square bit, a Phillips screwdriver, and a flat-head screwdriver.
Installation Instructions
Steven from MARIETTA, GA
Dryer wasn't heating properly, drying took too long.
Removed back of dryer with electric nut driver. Lots of screws. Removed old heating element to better access wires and thermostats. Removed baffle at end and transferred to new heater element. Transferred thermostats to new element, reconnected wiring in correct order. Installed new heater element in correct position using tab to loca
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te. Replaced back of dryer. Reconnected dryer vent. Toughest part was squeezing out of space after reconnecting dryer vent. Unfortunately, too short for my weight.
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This white drum glide is used in a clothes dryer to ensure the front of the dryer drum is supported as it does rotations. *Please note: these are sold individually, however there are two of these in your appliance. We recommend that these be replaced at the same time, this allows for optimal performance and ensures they wear evenly. Each drum glide is approximately 33 inches in length. If the following symptoms occur, consider replacing the drum guide as a solution: dryer is noisy, will not tumble, or leaves marks on clothes. Remember to unplug the power source to the dryer before installing this part. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions and guidance.
This white drum glide is used in a clothes dryer to ensure the front of the dryer drum is supported as it does rotations. *Please note: these are sold individually, however there are two of these in your appliance. We recommend that these be replaced at the same time, this allows for optimal performance and ensures they wear evenly. Each drum glide is approximately 33 inches in length. If the following symptoms occur, consider replacing the drum guide as a solution: dryer is noisy, will not tumble, or leaves marks on clothes. Remember to unplug the power source to the dryer before installing this part. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further instructions and guidance.
Installation Instructions
Sergio from Cromwell, CT
Clothes were getting caught in gap, leaving burn mark.
Took the face off, and replaced the worn down drum glide and felt. Works just fine now.
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Located at the front of the washing machine, this dryer lint filter traps lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing out of the dryer drum. This part measures approximately 14 inches long x 11 inches high. It has a plastic frame and a mesh body to catch debris. If your filter needs cleaning, the dryer cycle will take longer due to a buildup or lint or fabric softener affecting the air flow through the filter. If there is a buildup, try scrubbing the filter with hot water and soap. But if the filter is damaged, worn, or torn, it should be replaced. Cleaning the lint filter before starting the drying cycle is a great way to ensure your dryer performs properly.
Located at the front of the washing machine, this dryer lint filter traps lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing out of the dryer drum. This part measures approximately 14 inches long x 11 inches high. It has a plastic frame and a mesh body to catch debris. If your filter needs cleaning, the dryer cycle will take longer due to a buildup or lint or fabric softener affecting the air flow through the filter. If there is a buildup, try scrubbing the filter with hot water and soap. But if the filter is damaged, worn, or torn, it should be replaced. Cleaning the lint filter before starting the drying cycle is a great way to ensure your dryer performs properly.
Installation Instructions
Yvette from RUTHER GLEN, VA
Lint filter unusable due to age
Inserted lint filter into slot.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.
Replacement is exact match to original filter.
The door catch on your dryer is an important part as it keeps your dryer door closed, in order to ensure no air or clothes can escape. This part works by holding the door strike, which allows the door to stay secure. Before you begin this repair make sure to disconnect the power supply to the dryer. The tools you will need for this installation include a Phillips screwdriver and a small flat blade screwdriver. A pair of pliers may also come in handy. Users ranked this repair as easy, and say that it will take fifteen minutes or less to complete.
The door catch on your dryer is an important part as it keeps your dryer door closed, in order to ensure no air or clothes can escape. This part works by holding the door strike, which allows the door to stay secure. Before you begin this repair make sure to disconnect the power supply to the dryer. The tools you will need for this installation include a Phillips screwdriver and a small flat blade screwdriver. A pair of pliers may also come in handy. Users ranked this repair as easy, and say that it will take fifteen minutes or less to complete.
Installation Instructions
Glenda from Covington, LA
hinges had broken over time
easily found correct parts at good price on parts select, ordered. Received the next day and repairs went smoothly, about 20 min and we were good as new.Saved us a repairman visit. thanks.
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet. You will need to remove the dryer drum before completing this repair. Although replacing the drum support bearing is a fairly easy job, you will need tools to complete it. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, a Phillips screw driver, a 5/16 nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screw driver.
If your dryer does not tumble, will not start, is noisy, or is leaving marks on your clothing, you may need to replace the drum support bearing. The drum is supported at the rear by a bearing, which attaches onto the inside of the rear panel of the cabinet. You will need to remove the dryer drum before completing this repair. Although replacing the drum support bearing is a fairly easy job, you will need tools to complete it. For this repair, you will need a putty knife, a Phillips screw driver, a 5/16 nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screw driver.
Installation Instructions
Cynthia from Lexington, SC
Squealing noise
We followed the instructions for the drum glide replacement and changed the belt and drum support bearing piece, cleaned it out too. Works like a charm. Thanks for saving us a bundle.
This dryer heating element produces heat to dry clothes and is located in the rear of a dryer. If the heater element is burned, the dryer does not heat or over heats, or clothes are taking too long to dry, replacing this part could solve your problem. The tools needed for this repair project are a Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, and needle nose pliers. To repair, first remove the main top of the dryer and ground strap at the rear. Disconnect the two wire harnesses and remove the screws that hold the front panel to the cabinet, in order to pull out the front panel. Now that you have access to the inside of the dryer, refer to the manual for further installation instructions and detailed guidance. Remember to unplug your appliance from the power source before beginning this repair project.
This dryer heating element produces heat to dry clothes and is located in the rear of a dryer. If the heater element is burned, the dryer does not heat or over heats, or clothes are taking too long to dry, replacing this part could solve your problem. The tools needed for this repair project are a Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, and needle nose pliers. To repair, first remove the main top of the dryer and ground strap at the rear. Disconnect the two wire harnesses and remove the screws that hold the front panel to the cabinet, in order to pull out the front panel. Now that you have access to the inside of the dryer, refer to the manual for further installation instructions and detailed guidance. Remember to unplug your appliance from the power source before beginning this repair project.
Installation Instructions
Juan Carlos from Weston, FL
short circuit with a brasier metal support
Disconect the dryer from the main power source.
1) Remove the two screws from the rear / upper panel (below the control panel).
2) Snap the front side using a flat head screw driver.
3) On the inside front, remove two screws (one on each side) from the upper side and snap the door assembly off.
... Read more 4) Remove the rear motor access panel (two screws) and appying tension to the spring remove the belt.
5) Pull the drum upwards (verticaly) unnapping it from the rear wall and remove it horizontally through the front panel.
6) Disconect the four leads to the heating element and remove the four screws from the rear of the dryer and replace the heating element.
Follow the same steps backwards to put the dryer together again.
1) Remove the two screws from the rear / upper panel (below the control panel).
2) Snap the front side using a flat head screw driver.
3) On the inside front, remove two screws (one on each side) from the upper side and snap the door assembly off.
... Read more 4) Remove the rear motor access panel (two screws) and appying tension to the spring remove the belt.
5) Pull the drum upwards (verticaly) unnapping it from the rear wall and remove it horizontally through the front panel.
6) Disconect the four leads to the heating element and remove the four screws from the rear of the dryer and replace the heating element.
Follow the same steps backwards to put the dryer together again.
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The dryer thermal limiter, also known as a thermal fuse, blows the fuse to cut off power to the dryer when the dryer begins to overheat. Once the dryer reached 220 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat cuts out. If the thermal fuse is defective, damaged, or blown up then the dryer wont start, especially since it cannot be reset. It must be replaced if the following symptoms occur: the dryer overheats, takes too long to dry clothes, or there is not enough heat in the dryer. The tools needed for this repair are, a screwdriver, putty knife and needle-nose pliers. This part is manufactured for both gas and electric dryers.
The dryer thermal limiter, also known as a thermal fuse, blows the fuse to cut off power to the dryer when the dryer begins to overheat. Once the dryer reached 220 degrees Fahrenheit, the heat cuts out. If the thermal fuse is defective, damaged, or blown up then the dryer wont start, especially since it cannot be reset. It must be replaced if the following symptoms occur: the dryer overheats, takes too long to dry clothes, or there is not enough heat in the dryer. The tools needed for this repair are, a screwdriver, putty knife and needle-nose pliers. This part is manufactured for both gas and electric dryers.
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Newnan, GA
Thermal Limiter opened
Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.