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The idler pulley with bracket ensures proper tension on the dryer’s drive belt, allowing the drum to spin effectively. This assembly includes the pulley and arm, making it ideal for replacing a worn or damaged component. Designed for various Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef dryers, this genuine OEM part guarantees reliability and performance. If your dryer is noisy or the drum is not turning properly, this part may be the solution. Always disconnect power and wear gloves during installation.
The idler pulley with bracket ensures proper tension on the dryer’s drive belt, allowing the drum to spin effectively. This assembly includes the pulley and arm, making it ideal for replacing a worn or damaged component. Designed for various Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Inglis, and Magic Chef dryers, this genuine OEM part guarantees reliability and performance. If your dryer is noisy or the drum is not turning properly, this part may be the solution. Always disconnect power and wear gloves during installation.
Installation Instructions
Stacy B. from MUKWONAGO, WI
Insanely loud squeaking
With the correct parts and watching the video, it was so easy to repair. We ordered the wrong part (for the Electric Dryer when it should have been for the Residential Dryer) but the return was easy and we got the new parts super fast. Next time I would probably look at the offending part first before ordering just to make certain. But w
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e used a socket set and Philips screwdriver and actually had our teens do all the work for experience. Fixed the loud noise one and for all.
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This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If damaged or broken the dryer will not dry properly, will not tumble properly, or may not even start. Installation is rated as "Medium" difficulty. This part is located on the dryer drum, around the tension pulley. Refer to your user manual and model number for repair instructions and to ensure this part is right for you. For this repair project, the tools needed are a Phillips screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver, putty knife, small flat blade screw driver, and needle nose pliers.
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If damaged or broken the dryer will not dry properly, will not tumble properly, or may not even start. Installation is rated as "Medium" difficulty. This part is located on the dryer drum, around the tension pulley. Refer to your user manual and model number for repair instructions and to ensure this part is right for you. For this repair project, the tools needed are a Phillips screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver, putty knife, small flat blade screw driver, and needle nose pliers.
Installation Instructions
eric from Boulder, CO
Belt Wheel was broken at axle. Terrible noise.
Removed the top and back of dryer with screw socket. It was quite easy. Then, I removed the broken wheel by releasing the tension spring. I replaced the wheel. The toughest part was re-threading the belt. But, even that was simple. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly again!
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may need to replace the idler pulley assembly. Make sure to disconnect power before installing this part, and wear work gloves to protect your hands. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, consider replacing the drive belt as well. You will need a putty knife, a Phillips screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver for this repair.
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may need to replace the idler pulley assembly. Make sure to disconnect power before installing this part, and wear work gloves to protect your hands. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, consider replacing the drive belt as well. You will need a putty knife, a Phillips screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver for this repair.
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 i
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nch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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The WP8066184 is a dryer motor pulley that is used in some dryer models. It supports the motor belt where it connects with the motor. Symptoms of failure include squealing or grinding noise during drum rotation. Please use the model number of the appliance to check for compatibility before purchasing.
The WP8066184 is a dryer motor pulley that is used in some dryer models. It supports the motor belt where it connects with the motor. Symptoms of failure include squealing or grinding noise during drum rotation. Please use the model number of the appliance to check for compatibility before purchasing.
Installation Instructions
holly from LONG BCH TWP, NJ
Drum not turning; accompanied by loud "screeching" sound.
Followed instructional video provided for this type of repair after diagnosing problem via of 'troubleshooting' on PartsSelect site. Simple, safe, and relatively easy (minimal mechanical knowledge helpful).
Second time using PartSelect; washing machine repair ~ 6 mo. previous.
PartSelect was spot-on with that repair as well, sa ... Read more ving hundreds of dollars.....my go-to site for appliance repairs and pats....make it yours as well and you will NOT be disappointed! Fast, prompt shipping.
Second time using PartSelect; washing machine repair ~ 6 mo. previous.
PartSelect was spot-on with that repair as well, sa ... Read more ving hundreds of dollars.....my go-to site for appliance repairs and pats....make it yours as well and you will NOT be disappointed! Fast, prompt shipping.
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This part is used to help the belt to rotate the drum. It is white and made of plastic with a metallic bearing in the center.
This part is used to help the belt to rotate the drum. It is white and made of plastic with a metallic bearing in the center.
Installation Instructions
John from Charlottesville, VA
Belt broke on old machine.
1. Removed front of machine (2 screws at the bottom).
2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.
3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.
4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they ... Read more run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.
5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.
6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.
7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.
8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).
9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.
I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.
In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.
I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine.
2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.
3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.
4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they ... Read more run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.
5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.
6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.
7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.
8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).
9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.
I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.
In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.
I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine.
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MAKE THIS REPAIR A GUARANTEED WIN
OVER 2 MILLION PARTS TO ENSURE VICTORY
The idler pulley wheel serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
The idler pulley wheel serves to help the belt to rotate the drum. This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
Installation Instructions
GARY from CEDAR CITY, UT
metal rubbing sound at drum edge: found seal cut and idler bearing frozen
Getting the cabinet open is always fun. Prying the top open without breaking the clips. I took a small pry bar, covered the end with gray tape and found the the clips located on the front outer edges. You push in on the metal clips from the front and lift the top off the plastic alignment dowels. Remove the back, and two front panels. Re
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moved the drum and vacuumed out everything (inspect). Remove old seal, idler pulley assembly from back of dryer (spring & bolt & note belt routing). Glue new felt seal on drum, slide on drive belt, bolt on new idler assembly & attach spring. Attach lower inner front panel screws. Flex out front panel and lower in the drum (make sure the felt seal lip is not folded over). Complete installing front panels. Slide belt towards center of drum (see old mark). Flex idler assembly and route drive belt. Hand spin drum to align belt. Plug in and run dryer briefly to confirm things run smoothly. Align lid clips and close. Unplug and attach back panel and vent hose. ALL DONE.
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The spring for this part is sold separately.
This idler assembly is for dryers.
Idler assembly includes the idler arm and the idler pulley that maintains tension on the drive belt, allowing the belt to turn.
Disconnect the power before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
The spring for this part is sold separately.
This idler assembly is for dryers.
Idler assembly includes the idler arm and the idler pulley that maintains tension on the drive belt, allowing the belt to turn.
Disconnect the power before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
Installation Instructions
Steven from Holderness, NH
Squeeling and grinding noise
Wasn't the belt!! Changed it anyway. Should have come here earlier. That mistake added several days to the repair waiting for a second batch of the right parts. Became a pro at taking the dryer apart and reassembling, though! Easy job, just take your time and mark your wires, if you need to.
Followed other people's excellent instru ... Read more ctions. Clean out all the dust bunnies. Schematics were a great resource. Those and the prices made me a repeat customer.
The shaft of the Idler Lever wheel was the cause, but decided, since I had it apart, to spend a little more money and replace both Drum Support Rollers and the Roller Bracket and Shaft Assembly. They showed some wear, and the parts were very inexpensive. Make sure you have snap ring pliers with prongs that are smaller than the standard 0.40 to save some aggravation with the Drum Rollers. $5 tool. Total parts were less than $60. Probably saved $150+ in labor. Quieter than ever now. Thanks!
Followed other people's excellent instru ... Read more ctions. Clean out all the dust bunnies. Schematics were a great resource. Those and the prices made me a repeat customer.
The shaft of the Idler Lever wheel was the cause, but decided, since I had it apart, to spend a little more money and replace both Drum Support Rollers and the Roller Bracket and Shaft Assembly. They showed some wear, and the parts were very inexpensive. Make sure you have snap ring pliers with prongs that are smaller than the standard 0.40 to save some aggravation with the Drum Rollers. $5 tool. Total parts were less than $60. Probably saved $150+ in labor. Quieter than ever now. Thanks!
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Installation Instructions
Mark from OSHKOSH, WI
1 of 4 Drum Rollers Froze Preventing drum rotation.
Replaced idle pulley wheel, worn drum belt and all 4 rollers (1 frozen) due to dryer age. Site video re general disassembly/re-assembly easily adapted to this model and very helpful with exception of replacement of drum rollers. New rollers received (AGM75510755) were pre-mounted on included shafts. This required removal of existing roll
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er shafts to replace with new shaft/roller units. Site video shows placing a new roller on existing shafts after removing a plastic retaining clip. New roller/shaft assembly is a better option and fortunately I did not order extra retainer clips! Rear drum roller shafts have small carved out space to fit a box end wrench to remove shaft nut. Watch out for sharp edges on internal steel parts!
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Installation Instructions
robert from phenix city, AL
belt was broken.
remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.
This is an authentic idler pulley, which works with dryers.
This is an authentic idler pulley, which works with dryers.
Installation Instructions
David from LAKE CHARLES, LA
Pulley was broken
Just remove and replaced no tools required