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Popular Jenn-Air Dryer Parts
Your Price
$16.60
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Fixes these symptoms
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
Read more...
Your Price
$30.72
M Series New Style Coil Kit
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS334310
Manufacturer Part Number 279834
When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils (Coil Valve, Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit, Dryer Valve Coil Kit, Gas Valve Solenoid) work together to open the gas valve and allow the gas to enter the burner. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. The coils are attached to the dryer gas valve. If the dryer does not heat or heats intermittently, the coil may not be opening the gas valve. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. No continuity would indicate a defective coil, but they can be intermittent and fail when they get hot. Both coils should be replaced when one of them is broken. This part can break as a result of material fatigue from normal use. This part measures approximately 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch in height, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/beige. This part features a 3-terminal boost/hold coil and a 2-terminal secondary coil
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- Shuts off too soon
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
Your Price
$35.60
High Limit Kit
2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift.
3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum
4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse
5. Unplug red wires to the heating element
6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse
7. Remove high limit thermal fuse
8. Remove heating element
9. Remove high limit fuse
10 Clean heating box
Installation is reverse order but do the following first!
Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer
1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right
2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom
3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list.
4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on.
5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2162282
Manufacturer Part Number LA-1053
The high limit kit comes with three separate thermal fuses for dryers. One electric thermal fuse with a limit of 258, one gas high limit at 240, and one gas and electric high limit thermostat with a limit at 300. The thermal fuse kit shuts off the motor in the dryer when it begins to overheat. If the dryer will not heat, is overheated, shuts off too soon, or takes too long to dry then the thermal fuse might have exploded and need to be replaced. For replacement instructions refer to the diagram by manufacturer. For safety, unplug the dryer before installing the part.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Shuts off too soon
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Ronald from Fredericksburg, VA
Electric dryer would not heat - Thermal fuses - $25 fix - I love DIY
1. Unplug dryer from power outlet2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift.
3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum
4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse
5. Unplug red wires to the heating element
6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse
7. Remove high limit thermal fuse
8. Remove heating element
9. Remove high limit fuse
10 Clean heating box
Installation is reverse order but do the following first!
Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer
1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right
2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom
3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list.
4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on.
5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape. Read more...
Your Price
$31.40
Door Catch Kit
PartSelect Number PS2162263
Manufacturer Part Number LA-1003
This door catch kit is designed for use in dryers. This is an authentic OEM replacement part. This catch assembly ensures the door of your appliance will close, and remain closed. It allows your appliance to both start and complete a full drying cycle. There are two pieces included in this kit, one catch, and one strike. You open and close the door on such a regular basis that this mechanism can wear out. It is a fairly common part to replace. You will need to remove the door of your dryer to install the replacement catch assembly.
Fixes these symptoms
- Door won’t close
- Shuts off too soon
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Paul from Mt. Pleasant, SC
catch mounted on door broke
The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.
Read more...
Your Price
$49.06
Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11741429
Manufacturer Part Number WP338906
If your gas dryer is not heating up or igniting, then replacing the flame sensor, located in the burner assembly, could solve it. This part senses heat from the igniter to monitor if it is hot enough to ignite gas to light the burner. Once the igniter is hot enough it will open the valve and allow gas to flow. This is a safety mechanism to prevent dangerous levels of gas from building up. To repair, the main top of the dryer should be lifted, as well as the front panel to access the component. This flame sensor assembly is made of both plastic and metal.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Shuts off too soon
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Michael from Kirkwood, MO
Gas Dryer would not ignite
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
Your Price
$34.33
Lint Filter
PartSelect Number PS11742807
Manufacturer Part Number WP53-0918
This is an OEM lint filter for a dryer. This lint filter screen has two side guides on either of the screen. One measures 3/8 of an inch wide, while the other measures 5/8 of an inch wide. This part is white and is made of plastic. You may need to replace the filter if the plastic is broken or warped. Simply slide the lint filter out of the slot and slide the replacement filter in. The lint filter collects lint from drying clothes and prevents lint from building up in internal moving parts, specifically the heating coil. Neglecting to clean your lint filter is a fire hazard, be sure to clean it on a regular basis.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jane from Grand Forks, ND
lint filter broke
I pulled out the broken lint filter and put the new one back in, real easy. I am so happy with the prompt delivery I got from PartsSelect.com. I ordered on a Monday and and it was delivered on a Wednesday
Read more...
Your Price
$12.86
Blower Wheel Clamp
Thanks, Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740752
Manufacturer Part Number WP312967
This blower wheel clamp, used in a clothes dryer, is a clamp that holds the blower wheel to the motor shaft. This part helps hold the blower wheel in place to function easily and properly. If your clothes dryer has any of the following symptoms then replacing the clamp can be a solution: making loud noises, not producing enough heat or no heat at all, and/or clothes are taking too long to dry. Make sure to unplug thedryer from power source before installing this part and refer to the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
- Takes too long to dry
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Tim from Jacobus, PA
Dryer was making horrible noise,
First I removed the 2 screws behind the door just below the slot for the lint trap(t-15 torx screws). I then popped the top of the dryer off using a flat tipped screw driver and using a 8mm. socket and extension I removed the 2 sheet metal screws from inside of the top corners of the front panel which attach it to the side panels. After that I could lean the front panel away from the unit and unplug the door switch being careful to mark the wires so I wouldn't have to take it apart again in the instance that I hooked them up wrong. I then leaned the front panel out a little more and lifted it off of the pins that lock the bottom of the front panel in. After that, I removed the sheet metal screws(8 mm.) that secure the fan housing cover and removed the old fan which was easy as it had spun the center out of itself and basically fell off, this is what was making all the racket. I removed the c-clip which rides in the groove at the end of the shaft with a flat tip and a pair of pliers, slid the new fan blade over the shaft, gave it a few light taps with the end of a hammer handle to seat it properly and installed the tension clamp with some pliers and popped the c-clip back on. I reversed the tear down procedures and reassembled the drier. Thanks to a little no-how, mechanical inclination, and the right parts, I was able to restore my drier to like new, virtually silent operation for about $40 as opposed to buying a new unit or paying a repairman $80 to $100 per hour plus parts to do the job. PartSelect.com made specifying and ordering the correct parts the first time a breeze and their prices are a bargain to boot.Thanks, Read more...
Your Price
$72.70
Heating Element Kit - 240V 4750W
This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$:
(1) Disconnected power
(2) Opened the top of the dryer
(3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor.
(4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor
(5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element.
(6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element.
(7) Reassembled new element.
(8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.
Worked like a charm! Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2162280
Manufacturer Part Number LA-1044
This dryer heating element kit is 240 volts and 4750 watts. The function of the heating element is to produce the heat that allows you to dry your clothing during your dryer cycle. If your clothes take too long to dry, or if your dryer is not getting any heat or enough heat, you may need to replace your element. Before you begin your repair, make sure to disconnect the power from the dryer. The tools you will need for this repair include a putty knife, a quarter-inch nut driver, and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fixes these symptoms
- No heat or not enough heat
- Takes too long to dry
- Too hot
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Brianna from Littleton, CO
Dry stopped heating - still had good air flow
I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair. This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$:
(1) Disconnected power
(2) Opened the top of the dryer
(3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor.
(4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor
(5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element.
(6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element.
(7) Reassembled new element.
(8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.
Worked like a charm! Read more...
Your Price
$29.29
Drum Felt Seal
Since I had this done by a repairman last time 6 years ago for $180 I decided to try it myself this time. First, this job isn't hard, just very inconvenient to do.
You have to remove the drum by taking off the front panel of the dryer. Then lift up slightly on the drum and remove. Then you unscrew the existing drum support wheels in the back and replace. The instructions for installing the new drum wheels are in the package with the wheels. Replace both even if one looks ok. The trick to getting the retaining clips on is to get them placed on the groove in the front of the wheel shaft and use plyers to clamp down on the clip and shaft - then they just snap into place.
The other thing I replaced was the felt gasket at the rear of the drum. Getting the old worn one off was easy. Scrape off as much of the old adhesive as you can, clean with some Goo Gone or similar adhesive remover and dry. I used the hi-temp adhesive from this website to attach the new felt gasket - this stuff is runny! If it gets on your hands or other surfaces, miner spirits or goo gone will get it off. I found it easier to apply a bit to the felt then hold it on the while the stuff started curing (a few minutes). Once you have glued the felt all the way around the drum, let it sit for an hour or so before trying to put the drum back on. Before you reinstall the drum, gently fold over the felt toward the back of the machine so it forms a "U" shape. Then carfully put the drum back on, making sure you have it sitting on the new wheels. Since the felt is new, you will have to work the drum a bit to get it seated evenly on the wheels and the new gasket.
Since there were no instruction on the tube of hi-temp adhesive about cure time, I waited a full day before running the dryer. It's been a week and 4 loads of laundry later and everything is running fine. I saved about $120. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740735
Manufacturer Part Number WP31001747
The drum felt seal, used in dryers, allows the drum to smoothly glide with minimal friction. If any of the following symptoms occur with your dryer, replacing the felt seal can be a solution to your problem: makes noises, does not tumble, takes too long to dry, not enough heat, or no heat at all. First take off the front panel of the dryer and remove the drum. Next, unscrew the old drum support wheels by following the instructions from the manufacturer manual. To get the retaining clips on, place them in front of the wheel shaft and clamp down on the clip and shaft as you snap it in. This part can be used for both the front and rear in some models. Remember to unplug your dryer from the power source before beginning this project.
Fixes these symptoms
- Marks left on clothes
- No heat or not enough heat
- Noisy
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Installation Instructions
Nancy from Largo, FL
Dryer was grinding metal on metal
I was replacing the rear drum support wheels and the felt gasket in the back of the drum.Since I had this done by a repairman last time 6 years ago for $180 I decided to try it myself this time. First, this job isn't hard, just very inconvenient to do.
You have to remove the drum by taking off the front panel of the dryer. Then lift up slightly on the drum and remove. Then you unscrew the existing drum support wheels in the back and replace. The instructions for installing the new drum wheels are in the package with the wheels. Replace both even if one looks ok. The trick to getting the retaining clips on is to get them placed on the groove in the front of the wheel shaft and use plyers to clamp down on the clip and shaft - then they just snap into place.
The other thing I replaced was the felt gasket at the rear of the drum. Getting the old worn one off was easy. Scrape off as much of the old adhesive as you can, clean with some Goo Gone or similar adhesive remover and dry. I used the hi-temp adhesive from this website to attach the new felt gasket - this stuff is runny! If it gets on your hands or other surfaces, miner spirits or goo gone will get it off. I found it easier to apply a bit to the felt then hold it on the while the stuff started curing (a few minutes). Once you have glued the felt all the way around the drum, let it sit for an hour or so before trying to put the drum back on. Before you reinstall the drum, gently fold over the felt toward the back of the machine so it forms a "U" shape. Then carfully put the drum back on, making sure you have it sitting on the new wheels. Since the felt is new, you will have to work the drum a bit to get it seated evenly on the wheels and the new gasket.
Since there were no instruction on the tube of hi-temp adhesive about cure time, I waited a full day before running the dryer. It's been a week and 4 loads of laundry later and everything is running fine. I saved about $120. Read more...
Your Price
$7.54
Clamp-Motor
PartSelect Number PS11743369
Manufacturer Part Number WP660658
This clamp is used to secure the drive motor.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Eric from Fort Dodge, IA
dryer drum not turning and no air circulating
replaced motor and drum rear seal as well as idler wheels, the old rear drum seal was completly worn out, since I had it all apart, I replaced lint chute and trap seals and belt and tensioner. I spent less money on parts than if I would have bought a new dryer. The motor was the main problem as the bearings were shot.
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Appliance Type
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