Dryer Wire Plugs and Connectors

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Your Price

$34.87

Dryer Main Terminal Block Kit

★★★★★

13 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS471605

Manufacturer Part Number 5304409888

Terminal block kits are also known as terminal boards, or terminal strips, and they are found in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often in ranges, wall ovens, and dryers. This kit attaches the power cord to the inner wiring of your appliance. If the terminal block is faulty, your appliance will not get the power it needs to operate properly. When removing the old block pay close attention to the wire placement, this will make installing your new part much easier. If you notice any of the wires or wire terminals are corroded or damaged they will also need to be replaced.

Fixes these symptoms

Element will not heat
Little to no heat when baking
Little to no heat when broiling
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Installation Instructions

Timothy from Spring Valley, AL

Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful. Read more...

Your Price

$9.85

Dryer Wiring Harness

PartSelect Number PS11752344

Manufacturer Part Number WPW10298258

Your Price

$49.42

Dryer Terminal Block

★★★★★

3 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS17629326

Manufacturer Part Number W11705611

This terminal block assembly does not come with any hardware. It it three inches long and made of plastic and metal.

Your Price

$18.76

Dryer Terminal Block

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS11741489

Manufacturer Part Number WP3397659

This part is an electrical connector where you can attach wires. This part does NOT included the wires, screws, and nuts. Must be order separately

Installation Instructions

DAVID from LEESBURG, FL

One of the power cord connections on the terminal block was loose. Screw on terminal block was cross threaded when installed. Took six years to smoke the wire.

Removed and replaced terminal block, power cord and black wire to timer. Read more...

Your Price

$36.21

Dryer Terminal Block And Grounding Strap

★★★★★

3 Reviews

PartSelect Number PS1015628

Manufacturer Part Number WE4M325

This part is connected to the rear bulkhead of the dryer with screws. It provides a way of connecting individual electrical wires and offers protection of the device from electrical surges (voltages and/or currents).

Installation Instructions

Vincent from Washington, PA

Dryer not heating. When moving it away from wall it was sparking badly where the cord hooks up.

Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow! Read more...

Your Price

$24.95

Dryer Heating Element Terminal & Insulator Kit

★★★★★

1 Review

PartSelect Number PS1760665

Manufacturer Part Number Y304596

This kit comes with two ceramic insulators.

Fixes these symptoms

Not Heating
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Installation Instructions

Christopher from GLENWOOD SPGS, CO

Dryer Not Heating

The dryer would run, but not heat up, so nothing was getting dry. I ended up replacing the heating element, and that did the trick. I’ll speak to the repair later, which is not hard. But, it may be more helpful if I share what I did to troubleshoot. Hopefully that saves you from ordering the wrong parts.

First, I verified voltage (240V) at the outlet, then tested each of the thermostats for continuity using my multimeter. They were fine, but when I tested the heating coil it showed open (no continuity). When I removed the coil, I found it was broken about 1/2 way back. So that was all verification I needed.

I made the repair following the video on this site, and they do a great job of walking you through everything. The trickiest part was just taking the slack out of the heating element enough to put the shroud back together. It was cumbersome, but doable. Just gotta work the coil through each insulator to keep it from hanging up as you go. And keep tension on it, without pulling so hard that you stretch the wire. Definitely a good DIY job with only basic tools required. Read more...