KitchenAid Dryer Parts
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Popular KitchenAid Dryer Parts
- Drum Not Spinning
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Noisy
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- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Too hot
- See more...
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes. Read more...
- Door Pops Open
- Door won’t close
- Lid or door won’t close
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- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
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2. pop off top of unit
3. remove front of dryer
4. lay unit on its back
5. remove drum and replace pulley assembly,belt,drum rollers of which it has 2 rear and 2 front
6. reverse above and then remove filter-vent housing and scrape off old seal install new seal
7. re-connect power,gas and vent use again
8. only sad part to whole job was seeing how cheaply whirlpool now makes thier products Read more...
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Too hot
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- Noisy
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- Noisy
- Not Heating
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2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.
3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.
4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.
5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.
6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.
7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.
8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.
9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on.
10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out.
11.Replaced the black vent plastic.
12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.
13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite.
14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure.
15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck! Read more...
- Noisy
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- Drum Not Spinning
- Noisy
- See more...
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Too hot
- See more...
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Good luck. Read more...
KitchenAid Dryer Appliance Types
Related KitchenAid Dryer Parts
- KitchenAid Dryer Brackets and Flanges
- KitchenAid Dryer Hardware
- KitchenAid Dryer Hinges
- KitchenAid Dryer Knobs
- KitchenAid Dryer Seals and Gaskets
- KitchenAid Dryer Switches
- KitchenAid Dryer Thermostats
- KitchenAid Dryer Valves
- KitchenAid Dryer Wire Plugs and Connectors
Popular KitchenAid Dryer Models
Below are the most popular KitchenAid Dryer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.