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KitchenAid Dryer Thermostats
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This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.
This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.
What this part fixes:
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Timer Not Working
Installation Instructions
Tom from High Point, NC
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
The thermal cut-off (Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit, Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit) prevents the dryer from overheating when the dryer high limit thermostat fails in a closed circuit condition. This part fails when the heater housing does not have adequate airflow through it; this is normally caused by restriction in the exhaust vent, plugged lint screen, or broken blower wheel. If this part fails, the dryer may not produce any heat. This kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees), jumper wires, and new female spade terminals. Both components are mounted on the heater housing, and measure approximately 2 inches long and 1.5 inches wide each. This kit comes in silver and is constructed of metal.
The thermal cut-off (Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit, Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit) prevents the dryer from overheating when the dryer high limit thermostat fails in a closed circuit condition. This part fails when the heater housing does not have adequate airflow through it; this is normally caused by restriction in the exhaust vent, plugged lint screen, or broken blower wheel. If this part fails, the dryer may not produce any heat. This kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees), jumper wires, and new female spade terminals. Both components are mounted on the heater housing, and measure approximately 2 inches long and 1.5 inches wide each. This kit comes in silver and is constructed of metal.
Installation Instructions
Vernon from Niceville, FL
No Heat
First tried heating element and thermal fuse with no luck. Ordered thermal cutoff and fixed problem. Had I used an ohm meter first I would have determined problem before having ordered heating element and fuse, as both had resistance. I wast just lazy and ordered the took the most common failed components first before taking dryer back
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off.
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A dryer high-limit thermostat (High Limit Thermostat, Hi-Limit Thermostat, Dryer High-Limit Thermostat) is a switch that is actuated by temperature change. This high limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism to keep the dryer from overheating. If your thermostat is malfunctioning, your dryer may not heat. This thermostat is located beneath the dryer vent at the back of the appliance. The terminal extension arm connects to the heater element terminal. You can test the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Test the thermostat for continuity at room temperature. If your reading indicates a defective thermostat, it must be replaced. This model is made of metal and plastic, and comes in silver/black. This part features 1 high limit thermostat with a terminal extension arm.
A dryer high-limit thermostat (High Limit Thermostat, Hi-Limit Thermostat, Dryer High-Limit Thermostat) is a switch that is actuated by temperature change. This high limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism to keep the dryer from overheating. If your thermostat is malfunctioning, your dryer may not heat. This thermostat is located beneath the dryer vent at the back of the appliance. The terminal extension arm connects to the heater element terminal. You can test the high limit thermostat with a multimeter. Test the thermostat for continuity at room temperature. If your reading indicates a defective thermostat, it must be replaced. This model is made of metal and plastic, and comes in silver/black. This part features 1 high limit thermostat with a terminal extension arm.
Installation Instructions
John from Indianapolis, IN
Dryer would take forever to dry clothes, even on high setting
I ordered all the thermal sensors for the dryer. They arrived two days later and they were the correct parts. It took me about 1/2 hour to replace all three sensors and now the dryer works like new again. My wife was very pleased, so was I.
This kit includes a high-limit thermostat rated at 250°F and a thermal cut-off fuse rated at 360°F, both designed to prevent overheating in dryers. The thermostat monitors internal temperatures and interrupts power if the dryer exceeds safe operating limits, while the thermal fuse acts as a backup safety device, cutting off power if temperatures rise too high. These components are essential for maintaining safe dryer operation and protecting against fire hazards. If your dryer is overheating or not running at all, replacing these parts may restore proper function. Always disconnect power before installation and consult your appliance’s manual for placement and compatibility.
This kit includes a high-limit thermostat rated at 250°F and a thermal cut-off fuse rated at 360°F, both designed to prevent overheating in dryers. The thermostat monitors internal temperatures and interrupts power if the dryer exceeds safe operating limits, while the thermal fuse acts as a backup safety device, cutting off power if temperatures rise too high. These components are essential for maintaining safe dryer operation and protecting against fire hazards. If your dryer is overheating or not running at all, replacing these parts may restore proper function. Always disconnect power before installation and consult your appliance’s manual for placement and compatibility.
Installation Instructions
Wesley from Boyds, MD
Dryer not heating
Our dryer is 8 years old and had been slowly taking longer and longer to dry clothes, to the point that I was ready to purchase a new one. When the dryer stopped heating completely, I removed the bottom panel and found that the heating element was no longer working. I checked online and found this website. The top two recommended fixes f
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or this issue was to replace the heating element and/or thermal cut-off kit (two sensors). I chose to purchase both, delivered to me very quickly (two days). I figured for $80 you can't go wrong. Here's the procedure I followed:
On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.
(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!
Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!
On my particular model, the back does NOT come off and all of my repairs had to be made via the front, bottom panel.
(1) disconnected 6 wires (3 pairs) from the heating element and two thermal sensors
(2) removed entire heating element 'sleeve" which contained both the heating element AND the two sensors. The space is way too tight to try and do this any other way (and I highly recommend this method to save a ton of time and frustration.)
(3) vaccummed out the entire inside of the dryer, clearing all lint and debris, including tons of lint creating a blockage, thus slowing the ability to dry over the years
(4) replaced sensors and heating element
(5) installed heating element & Thermal sensors back inside and reconnected all wires
(6) tested dryer to ensure that heating element lit up and produced heat - it worked beautifully!
Besides fixing the heating issue, cleaning out the clogged lint pipe at the back of the dryer and wall have made the old dryer new again. It's working better than ever!
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$46.34
In Stock
Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.
Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.
Installation Instructions
Vince from Kathleen, GA
Clothes would not Dry
I simply removed the back of the dryer to gain access to the heating element. Once I removed the heating element I figured I would also replace the thermostat and thermal fuse as preventive maintenance.
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Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature within the dryer. This particular cycling thermostat can be adjusted between 135 and 155 degrees Fahrenheit. The differential of this thermostat is 20 degrees, meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 20 degrees.
Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature within the dryer. This particular cycling thermostat can be adjusted between 135 and 155 degrees Fahrenheit. The differential of this thermostat is 20 degrees, meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 20 degrees.
Installation Instructions
Raymond from Marlton, NJ
Dryer not staying hot. Heat shuts off and doesn't come back on.
Detach front door and pop off front panel. Replaced heating unit on right and all parts on unit. Replaced cycling timer and thermostor on left. The thermostat was the last item replaced. We did this on three stages. First we replaced heating element, still had problem. Then we replaced the high limit and cycling thermostats, still had pro
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blem. Had a repairman out. He could not figure it out, because there were no error codes. He suggested replacing the thermostor. We did that and it fixed our problem. We could have saved alot if we did that first, but no one mentioned that part.
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This hi-limit thermostat acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element.
This hi-limit thermostat acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element.
Installation Instructions
Vince from Kathleen, GA
Clothes would not Dry
I simply removed the back of the dryer to gain access to the heating element. Once I removed the heating element I figured I would also replace the thermostat and thermal fuse as preventive maintenance.
With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 250 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 190 degrees Fahrenheit. Differential of 60 degrees.
With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 250 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 190 degrees Fahrenheit. Differential of 60 degrees.
Installation Instructions
Tom from High Point, NC
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
This high-limit thermostat monitors temperature and interrupts operation if safe limits are exceeded. Designed for protection and accuracy, it helps prevent overheating and supports safe performance.
This high-limit thermostat monitors temperature and interrupts operation if safe limits are exceeded. Designed for protection and accuracy, it helps prevent overheating and supports safe performance.
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 225 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 185 degrees Fahrenheit - the differential of 40 degrees.
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 225 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 185 degrees Fahrenheit - the differential of 40 degrees.
Installation Instructions
William from BURNET, TX
Dryer was getting hotter than blue-blazes, melted synthetics, damaged belt
Removed back of dryer, there were 3 screws on each side. There were two thermostats on the output vent and one thermostat on the heating element housing. Adjusted the temp settings on the thermostats per the instructions received with each thermostat (cross-refernece of original number required). Each thermostat had two screws and two
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wires. Terminals were coded "1" and "3," must get correct wires back in same place. The heating element thermostat required to splice new connector on one wire (per instructions enclosed with thermostat).. Easy as pie. BELT: Remove screws from lint screen housing, then pry up front of top of dryer and swing back (make sure you are next to the wall so it doesn't fall.) Remove the bottom front panel, remove the door tension springs, remove the two screws on the front of the front panel and remove the two top screws on the inside of the door panel (leave the door attached, but use tape to hold it shut so it doesn't hit you on the head) Careful of the door switch wire, carefully lean door up so it doesn't fall. The Drum will fall when front panel is removed, so have someone to help you hold it up. You do not have to remove the drum. With your frend holding the drum, go under and pull the tension spring roller back to slack up the belt and remove the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley. Remove belt from drum. Wrap new belt around drum (ribs down facing drum) and re-route belt around pulleys according to diagram in instructions (same way you pulled it off). I did it by myself, but I got konked in the head by the door, so be careful. Easy, but awkward. Watch for sharp sheetmetal edges.
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