Inglis Dryer Parts
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Popular Inglis Dryer Parts
Your Price
$17.19
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
PartSelect Number PS346995
Manufacturer Part Number 341241
This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the rotation of the motor to turn the drum. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
Read more...
Your Price
$19.63
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Thermal Fuse
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11741460
Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519
The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.
Fixes these symptoms
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Too hot
- See more...
Installation Instructions
ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes. Read more...
Your Price
$37.48
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Maintenance Kit
PartSelect Number PS373087
Manufacturer Part Number 4392065
The drum support roller kit (Dryer Repair Kit) allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The idler pulley provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. The belt attaches to the drum, idler pulley, and motor pulley. If your dryer is damaged, it may be making loud, squeaking, and/or squealing noises while the drum is turning. This is from normal wear and tear. The drum may eventually stop turning all together. This is a sign the part should be replaced. This is one complete maintenance kit. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. The parts are constructed of plastic, metal, and rubber, and come in black/white/silver.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
DENNIS from ALTOONA, FL
Broken drive belt
Grow a second set of hands. Always unplug any appliance. Remove lint screen. remove two screws (philips Head). I took a wooden shim lightly tapped w/hammer to pop front of dryer top free. Mine worked on hinges and just flipped back til it rested against the wall. Removed two 5/16 screws inside holding face on carefully raise face section off the support clips at either side on the bottom. Pull drum out (I have the large style drum commercial size [approx.). Clean the inside free of all lint (known to be fire hazard). Sling new belt around drum. Get newly grown set of hands to hold drum in place. Pinch belt to fit between tensioner, lift tensioner and place belt around motor pulley. Spin drum couple times to make certain belt isn't twisted. Reverse dismantle proccess to put back together. Replace all parts that come with kit, you'll feel better knowing you got a new dryer, almost.
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Your Price
$27.97
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Cycling Thermostat
PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heater also allows this thermostat to provide a low heat temperature of approximately 140 degrees when the low temperature setting is selected. The part measures 2 by 1.5 inches, comes in black/silver and is constructed of plastic and metal. The thermostat attaches to the blower wheel housing.
Fixes these symptoms
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Too hot
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Tom from High Point, NC
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!
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Your Price
$14.37
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Rear Drum Support Roller Kit
1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble
While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS347627
Manufacturer Part Number 349241T
The drum support roller kit allows the dryer to tumble properly by supporting the drum cylinder. The kit includes two drum rollers, four tri-rings, and one palnut (or retaining washer). The kit does not include a belt or idler pulley and rollers are not sold individually. The drum support roller kit may need to be replaced if the dryer is noisy or will not tumble. The tools needed to complete this repair are a putty knife, Phillips screw driver, and a 5/16 nut driver. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from Fremont, NE
Wife told me Dryer would make a funny sound, then stop + had an a funny smell as well. The Electric motor that drove the unit was overheating and locking up, It was time to be replace.
The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble
While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates. Read more...
Your Price
$4.31
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Door Catch Kit
PartSelect Number PS334230
Manufacturer Part Number 279570
This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, while the catch is mounted on the dryer door. These two parts work together to keep your dryer door closed. The catch holds the door strike to keep the door closed during the drying cycle. If the door does not latch closed, you won’t be able to start a drying cycle. If this part is malfunctioning, you may not be able to open or close your door. In some instances, it may seem like your door is closing, but if it is not latching properly you won’t be able to start your drying cycle. You should replace this part as soon as it’s malfunctioning. Your dryer may run even though the latch is malfunctioning, but it is unsafe if the dryer continues to run while the door is open. This replacement part features 1 door latch kit which includes 2 strikes, 3 catches, and a set of instructions. This model is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white/silver.
Fixes these symptoms
- Door Pops Open
- Door won’t close
- Lid or door won’t close
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Terri from Saint Augustine, FL
Door Catch part had fallen out,/ was missing
Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.
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Your Price
$64.90
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Heating Element - 240V 5400W
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Good luck. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS334313
Manufacturer Part Number 279838
The heating element (Flat Can Heating Element 5400W, Heating Element, Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element, Dryer Heating Element) provides heat to the dryer. It is metal and measures 10.5 inches long, 7.5 inches wide, 2 inches deep. The element attaches to the heater housing. This part can break as a result of wear and tear. This can be material fatigue or prolonged high temperature exposure. If broken your clothes may not dry because of a lack of heat. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. First check the thermal fuse on the blower housing before deciding to replace the heating element.
Fixes these symptoms
- Heat stays on after drum has stopped
- Not Heating
- Too hot
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Gadi from Irvine, CA
Dryer motor runs, but no heat
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Good luck. Read more...
Your Price
$13.42
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Roller Support Tri-Ring
PartSelect Number PS11755850
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10512946
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
John from Tucson, AZ
worn out part
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.
Read more...
Your Price
$11.40
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Leveling Foot
PartSelect Number PS1609293
Manufacturer Part Number 49621
If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, check that the leveling legs are even. To ensure that the washer is firmly on the ground using all four legs, adjust the legs so that the machine is level, and tighten the locking nuts on the legs that are threaded. Keep the washer as close to the floor as possible. Your model might have rear legs that level themselves, or it might have threaded legs all around. Make sure the rubber feet have not worn out. Replace any missing or damaged legs and feet. This replacement part is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Bryan from west valley city, UT
dryer had no heat, all other functions worked
After replacing the heat element as a guess, (which did not fix it), I measured voltage with a DVOM, found lower cut off switch in op, And thanx to some tips on parts select I ordered the the Thermal cut off kit, fast shipping, installed very easily and all is working properly
Read more...
Your Price
$17.64
In Stock
Inglis Dryer Idler Pulley Assembly
PartSelect Number PS11743765
Manufacturer Part Number WP691366
This part provides the tension required for a multi-ribbed belt. It also helps the belt rotate the drum and attaches to the idler pulley wheel. If your dryer will not start or tumble, takes too long to dry, or is noisy during operation, you may need to replace the idler pulley assembly. Make sure to disconnect power before installing this part, and wear work gloves to protect your hands. While the dryer is disassembled for this repair, consider replacing the drive belt as well. You will need a putty knife, a Phillips screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver for this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Ray from Denton, TX
Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
Read more...
Inglis Dryer Appliance Types
- Inglis Dishwasher Parts
- Inglis Microwave Parts
- Inglis Parts
- Inglis Range Parts
- Inglis Refrigerator Parts
- Inglis Washer Parts
Related Inglis Dryer Parts
- Inglis Dryer Brackets and Flanges
- Inglis Dryer Circuit Boards and Touch Pads
- Inglis Dryer Doors
- Inglis Dryer Drums and Tubs
- Inglis Dryer Hardware
- Inglis Dryer Knobs
- Inglis Dryer Seals and Gaskets
- Inglis Dryer Switches
- Inglis Dryer Thermostats
- Inglis Dryer Valves
- Inglis Dryer Wire Plugs and Connectors
Popular Inglis Dryer Models
Below are the most popular Inglis Dryer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- IED4400VQ1 Residential
- IED4400SQ0 29" Electric
- IP82000 Residential
- IV85001 Residential
- IJ80001 Residential
- IP80000 Residential
- IES5000RQ1 Residential
- YIED7200TW10 RESIDENTIAL DRYER
- IED4300SQ0 Residential
- YIED4400VQ1 Residential 29" Electric
- IEX3000RQ1 Residential
- IES5000RQ0 Residential
- YIED4671EW1 ELECTRIC DRYER
- IGD4400VQ1 Residential
- IEX3000RQ0 Residential
- IJ82001 Residential
- IGD4400SQ0 29" Gas
- YIED4600YQ0
- IS80000 Residential
- IS82000 Residential
