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Maytag Washer Switches

Popular Maytag Washer Switches

This dryer door switch is a simple on/off switch mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open, and operates the drum light. White in color and 6.5 inches long, this OEM switch is comprised of plastic and metal, and features the switch and three wires that comprise the part. Sold individually, this part attaches to the inside of the top end of the front panel. One end attaches to the wiring harness, the other goes through the panel to make contact with the door when the door is closed. Over time, this part can be subject to material fatigue or breakage due to frequent use or rough handling. If it breaks or is defective, you won't be able to start or stop your drying cycle, depending on the position your switch broke in. The easiest way to test this part for functionality is to test it by hand. Push on the black tab that sticks out of the front panel to make contact with your dryer door; if there is no resistance in the tab and it doesn't make a click sound, you may need to replace it.
This dryer door switch is a simple on/off switch mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open, and operates the drum light. White in color and 6.5 inches long, this OEM switch is comprised of plastic and metal, and features the switch and three wires that comprise the part. Sold individually, this part attaches to the inside of the top end of the front panel. One end attaches to the wiring harness, the other goes through the panel to make contact with the door when the door is closed. Over time, this part can be subject to material fatigue or breakage due to frequent use or rough handling. If it breaks or is defective, you won't be able to start or stop your drying cycle, depending on the position your switch broke in. The easiest way to test this part for functionality is to test it by hand. Push on the black tab that sticks out of the front panel to make contact with your dryer door; if there is no resistance in the tab and it doesn't make a click sound, you may need to replace it.
What this part fixes:
  • Door won’t close
  • Drum Not Spinning
  • Light not working
Installation Instructions
pat from lisbon,, OH
door switch was bad
i was able to go on line with your company , find my dryer, order the part and had it the next day. fast , great , service
This part is found in your washer. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed. This part includes the green grounding wire. If your machine is having trouble starting, is not agitating, spinning, or is not draining properly, this could be because the lid switch has broken. You will need a 5/16-inch nut driver for this repair. The package will contain one lid switch. You will need to access the back of the washer, and remove the two Phillips screws that hold the top back panel in place. Slide the panel forward to release. Use your nut driver to loosen the screw that holds the ground wire in place. Lift the lid of the washer to release the old lid switch.
This part is found in your washer. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed. This part includes the green grounding wire. If your machine is having trouble starting, is not agitating, spinning, or is not draining properly, this could be because the lid switch has broken. You will need a 5/16-inch nut driver for this repair. The package will contain one lid switch. You will need to access the back of the washer, and remove the two Phillips screws that hold the top back panel in place. Slide the panel forward to release. Use your nut driver to loosen the screw that holds the ground wire in place. Lift the lid of the washer to release the old lid switch.
What this part fixes:
  • Burning smell
  • Cycle Not Advancing
  • Lid or door won’t close
Installation Instructions
Clint from Kansas City, KS
Washer wouldn't run
I removed the two screws on the back of the control panel. The control panel then flips back. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. The new switch drops right in. I had a little trouble getting it in until I realized the washer lid had to be open. A little awkward but once it's in you can shut the lid and then I reattached the wire from the control panel and screwed in the grounding wire. Pretty easy. $20 for the part (with shipping) and 15 minutes. Way cheaper than a repairman.
This part is located behind the control panel. It helps determine the level of water in the washer. As the water fills the hose, while tub is filling, it will push the air against a diaphragm inside the switch. More water that enters the tub, more pressure is applied against the switch.
This part is located behind the control panel. It helps determine the level of water in the washer. As the water fills the hose, while tub is filling, it will push the air against a diaphragm inside the switch. More water that enters the tub, more pressure is applied against the switch.
What this part fixes:
  • Cycle Not Advancing
  • Draining Issues
  • Water Filling Issues
Installation Instructions
George from ORO VALLEY, AZ
Door locked because of faulty water level switch
First some background. The door locked up the first time when appliance was less than one year old. The "Maytag Repairman" finally succeeded in getting the door open after propping up the front of the machine and fumbling around underneath for a period of time and then assured me the problem was solved. The problem recurred less than a year later, and I called another repairman who seemed to have an easier time of it, and charged $293.42 to replace the water level switch. About six months later the same problem recurred and I took the cover off the top of the machine and found there a booklet "For Service Technician's Use Only". VERY HELPFUL. Told how extremely easy it was to unlock door - took about five seconds. Replacing the switch itself involved pulling one tubing off and disconnecting one elec connection from old switch and replacing on new switch. Total cost $50 plus a few dollars for shipping.
This washer/dryer lid or door switch kit serves as a critical safety component, designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the lid or door is open. It ensures that the washer does not fill or spin and the dryer does not start unless the door is securely closed, helping to avoid water spills and potential safety hazards. The kit includes all necessary components for installation and is compatible with a wide range of top-loading washers and front-loading dryers. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, accessing the control panel or door area, and replacing the switch using standard tools. The switch is compact and designed to fit seamlessly within the appliance’s housing, with dimensions approximately 2.5 inches in length, 1 inch in width, and 1 inch in height. It features a neutral color finish that blends with most appliance interiors.
This washer/dryer lid or door switch kit serves as a critical safety component, designed to prevent the appliance from operating when the lid or door is open. It ensures that the washer does not fill or spin and the dryer does not start unless the door is securely closed, helping to avoid water spills and potential safety hazards. The kit includes all necessary components for installation and is compatible with a wide range of top-loading washers and front-loading dryers. Installation typically involves disconnecting power, accessing the control panel or door area, and replacing the switch using standard tools. The switch is compact and designed to fit seamlessly within the appliance’s housing, with dimensions approximately 2.5 inches in length, 1 inch in width, and 1 inch in height. It features a neutral color finish that blends with most appliance interiors.
What this part fixes:
  • Will not agitate
  • Will not drain
  • Will Not Start
Installation Instructions
Peter from Westbury, NY
washer would not start
To see if the lid switch was the problem I first jumped it out and tried to start the washer. That was the problem. I removed the main controll so I could get to the lid switch. I made the mistake of removing the screws all the way out and the metal clip fell into the body of the washer, no problem since I was changing the drive beld anyway. I realized that you do not remove the screws all the way out, you just have to loosen them and then slide out the lid switch & then replace it.
What this part fixes:
  • Door not closing properly
  • Won’t turn on
Installation Instructions
LARRY from PARKERSBURG, WV
Microwave would say open and close door.
Removed panel and installed upper and lower switches. I did this because it did not do it all the time. When I removed the switches I used a ohms meter to check continuity but they all checked out at first then I started playing around with the buttons on each switch by pushing in on them and letting off and found one when you pushed in and out three or four times that one switch would jump back and forth by ohms meter that was the bad switch. If any one else has that problem the switch might show continuity when you first test but click the switch button a few times to see if you get a different reading. Microwave up running. Thanks Partselect.
Original Equipment Manufacturer

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$104.41
In Stock
This water level switch senses the level of water in the inner tub.
This water level switch senses the level of water in the inner tub.
What this part fixes:
  • Water Filling Issues
  • Will not drain
Installation Instructions
Joseph from BINGHAMTON, NY
Washer was reporting F20 (Water Pressure)
After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.
This part is located behind the control panel. It helps determine the level of water in the washer. As the water fills the hose, while tub is filling, it will push the air against a diaphragm inside the switch. More water that enters the tub, more pressure is applied against the switch.
This part is located behind the control panel. It helps determine the level of water in the washer. As the water fills the hose, while tub is filling, it will push the air against a diaphragm inside the switch. More water that enters the tub, more pressure is applied against the switch.
What this part fixes:
  • Water Filling Issues
Installation Instructions
Anthony from MIDDLETOWN, NY
Water level selector inoperable, washer stuck in "Med" load.
Using the guidance listed on your website for part #PS3408149, Water Level Pressure Switch, I removed two screws on each side of the rear Control Panel, removed the dial from the front, lifted the panel on the right side from rear, removed the hose and the electrical plug, twisted off the broken part and installed the new one in absolute reverse! Reassembled panel, plugged in unit to electric and performed function check to great satisfaction! (by doing one med load and one super load over next 2 hours)
This is an actuator switch to trigger bleach, detergent, or fabric softener housings to be dispensed into the tub of your washing machine. If your detergent cups are not dispensing, you may need to replace this part. The part is made of off-white plastic and metal.
This is an actuator switch to trigger bleach, detergent, or fabric softener housings to be dispensed into the tub of your washing machine. If your detergent cups are not dispensing, you may need to replace this part. The part is made of off-white plastic and metal.
What this part fixes:
  • Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
  • Will Not Start
Installation Instructions
Martha from Pine Island, TX
The washer machine didn’t start the cycle. Had a weird sound. Then f 30 was ther error code. With research internet it was easy to know about the motor dispenser problem
I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.
$80.90
In Stock
Installation Instructions
David from ROUND LAKE PK, IL
PARTSSELECT IS THE PROBLEM
I asked PS if I purchase from them, will I get the new version level sensor or the old version in a sealed bag that has the new number on the bag.
They guaranteed I would get the newest version level sensor inside of the bag. I had this problem with the past 3 vendors) So i spent double the $ to purchase from them. it arrived, bag had new part # inside was the OLD PART numbered item! The would not respond! The link for the install wont work! I just need the newer part and the calibration procedure t make this right or a refund!

NO SUPPORT for PARTSSELECT!
This water level switch senses the level of water in the inner tub.
This water level switch senses the level of water in the inner tub.
What this part fixes:
  • Water Filling Issues