Maytag Washer Bearings

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Popular Maytag Washer Bearings

Your Price
$53.90
  In Stock
Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect Number PS2003651
Manufacturer Part Number 12002213
This transmission pulley and bearing kit, also known as thrust bearing kit or washer pulley and bearing kit, includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, two upper race washers, and one lower race washer. These genuine Whirlpool parts are plastic and are not sold individually. The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin, will not drain, or has no agitation. The washer will need to be tilted on its back or side to access the bottom. The tools needed to complete this repair are a small flat blade screw driver and a pair of slip joint pliers.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Burning smell
  • Noisy
  • Pumps but will not spin
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Installation Instructions
James from Hueytown, AL
Washer tub would not spin, pump would empty water from tub.
Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt. Read more...
Your Price
$9.11
  In Stock
Spin Tube Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS11746369
Manufacturer Part Number WP8546462
This spin tube T-Bearing is an inch long. Sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
Your Price
$113.71
  In Stock
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect Number PS3503261
Manufacturer Part Number W10435302
This kit includes the shaft, 3 bearings, seals , grease, adhesive and the spanner nut, which is NOT sold separately. Also may require a bearing driver tool to install. PS3503307
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
DENNIS from OELWEIN, IA
Washer was noisy, Top seal and bearing bad
You better be confident in your repair abilities before you try this. Get the washer to a large open area, like your garage, because there are a lot of parts. Take off the back, pop the top, unsnap and remove the top ring off outer tub, take out the agitator, take out the inner tub, disconnect the pumps and electrical wires, take screw out of rotor on bottom and remove rotor, take out 4 bolts to remove motor magnet ring, and now you may be ready to unhook the outer tub from the 4 supports (springs) and lift it out of the metal frame. Then unscrew the bottom nut on the shaft, use blocks to hold the tub in place, and carefully tap the old shaft and bearings out. The instructions that came with the kit helped. The shaft and top seal comes out the top first. Then you can tap out upper bearing and then the lower bearing and spacers.Instructions called for a special tool to install the bearings but you can carefully tap them in. You will need blocks to support the tub while you tap them. First block under the tub and install top bearing, then flip over and use several blocks to hold tub while you drop the shaft, spacers, and tap lower bearing in. I did not need to tap on the inner ring of the bearings, just the outer ring. Be very careful not to damage the seal in the bearings. That's why you must tap them in careful and slow. Them install the nut on the bottom. You need to hold the shaft with damaging it while you tighten the nut. I used the hard nylon gear from the inner tub which I was replacing with a new one. Then put it all back together. Read more...
Your Price
$17.14
  In Stock
Rear Bearing
PartSelect Number PS11739437
Manufacturer Part Number WP22003441
This part is located near the tub's brake assembly.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John from Spring Valley, CA
No spin. Pump working. Smell of burning rubber.
I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and installed the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah! Read more...
Your Price
$59.31
  In Stock
Centerpost Bearing and Seal Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS334447
Manufacturer Part Number 285203
This assembly comes with one transmission stem seal, two center post bearings, and three agitator shaft seals.
Fixes these symptoms
Your Price
$48.26
  In Stock
Lower Bearing Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect Number PS2003141
Manufacturer Part Number 12001562
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John M from Saint Paul, IN
Loud noise during the spin cycle
Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!! Read more...
Your Price
$9.42
  In Stock
Ring, Thrust
PartSelect Number PS11743303
Manufacturer Part Number WP62658
Your Price
$132.00
  In Stock
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS2177502
Manufacturer Part Number W10116791
Please check your model# to verify this is correct for your appliance.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Mike from Houston, TX
Spin cycle sounded like freight train
Spin cycle sounded like freight train, bad bearing, apparently they all fail the same way, this revised parts kit should prevent premature failure in future.

The following is easy for an experienced mechanic of any type, fully doable by an accomplished DYI'er, between this writeup and the kit instructions (which I do not fully follow) you should be fine. Probably avoid this task if you aren't either of the aforementioned.

Remove lower pannel, top pannel, lift top back. Remove fill hose to outer tub, clear tube to outer tub. Remove entire outer cabinet from base, exposing base and tub. Remove augur assy by popping off cap removing inner bolt, lifting augur out. Remove top of outer tub cap assy by pressing down where each latch is and gently prying latch open with screwdriver. Remove bolts holding in inner tub and remove inner tub. Unscrew the pastic nut on transmission shaft using channel locks (counterclockwise from top), don't worry about destroying this part since a new one is in the kit. Remove (pry off with your hands, don't worry about breaking it) the 'lint filter' (looks like a frisbee) and trash it. Remove the large (about 8")aluminum hub (that the inner tub bolts to) by unscrewing counterclockwise. No special tool needed, just use air hammer if available against one of the T shaped castings to get it loose, otherwise use a drift and hammer same way. Don't worry about messing up the part since a new one is in the kit. Remove the outer tub drain hose, remove six screws holding outer tub, lift outer tub out. Turn outer tub upside down and use a wide crowbar/nail puller to CAREFULLY pry out the bearing/seal assy from the bottom of the tub. Take your time working your way completely around the bearing/seal several times so it doesn't get too crooked while removing it. Clean everything thoroughly. Inspect the area of the bottom of outer tub where you removed the bearing/seal. If all is well and there are no gouges, get it wet with clean water and then carefully press the new bearing/seal assy in with the heal of the palm of your hand, working your way around it so it doesn't get crooked while pressing in. Do not use sealer (unless there are gouges) and do not hammer this. Make sure it is fully seated in the outer tub. Do reverse to put everything back together. I tightened the aluminum hub the same way I loosened it, no problem. There are some rubber plugs in the kit to install in some holes in the tub, scrape or clean any gunk off the inner tub around these holes so the rubber plugs will seat properly. Carefully snug the plastic nut with channelocks by gripping it from the top as opposed to the side (so the fins don't break). Note there is a small o-ring on the transmission shaft to change before replacing the augur. Nice and quiet after the repair, hopefully the new kit (and trashing the 'lint filter') makes it last longer... LOL, it's a bit disturbing seeing the gunk under the augur knowing that has been there all this time while 'cleaning' the laundry! I'll probably start removing the augur every so often to clean under there.
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Your Price
$9.42
  In Stock
BEARING
PartSelect Number PS2580540
Manufacturer Part Number W10293230
Your Price
$45.17
  In Stock
Upper/Lower Bearing
PartSelect Number PS11742241
Manufacturer Part Number WP40004001
Bearing only.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
RAYMUND from WEST COVINA, CA
Maytag Washer Leaks, Noisy
1. I unplugged the machine. Using a socket wrench set, I removed the washer housing (bottom, front and sides) and flipped over the top to its service position. This exposes all the inner parts of the washer.
2. I pulled out the softener cup, unbolted the auger using a socket wrench with a long adaptor. I then pulled out the auger, exposing the "Seal Nut" and bottom of the inner basket (metal)where the transmission arm rises through.
3. I removed the seal nut using the hub (or spanner) wrench, which I had purchased from the Home Depot for $9.00;
and removed the bolts of the inner basket using a socket wrench. I unclipped the large plastic ring which holds together the inner metal basket and the outer plastic tub. This ring sits on top of both. I then removed all the counter-balance springs attached around the tub assembly.
4. I pulled out the inner basket exposing a metal disc called the "hub", which holds the inner tub in place.
5. Using a large flat screwdriver and a hammer, I tapped on the "T" shaped protrusions around the hub to loosen the hub, as it is tightly screwed onto the tub. Remember that the hub is "uncrewed" counter-clockwise. I didn't take much care in tapping the hub because I knew that this part will be replaced.
5. I then unscrewed the hub using the hub wrench.
6. I carefully pulled out the inner tub throught the transmission arm.
7. I inverted the tub, placing it on a towel on the floor (I didn't want to crack the lip). Using a flat screwdriver (or a nail puller), I slowly pried out the triple lip seal and bearing (the metal ring in the center of the tub bottom), making sure that I DO NOT DAMAGE THE PLASTIC BOTTOM OF THE TUB where the bearing sits. At this point, I pushed out all the little plastic lint strainers around the bottom of the tub (as per the instruction leaflet) and replaced them with the provided rubber plugs. YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PLUGS ARE FIRMLY IN PLACE.
8. I now washed the auger (you will find residue/softener build up inside), the inner basket, and the outer tub. I also found dirt, sand, grime and mold in these parts and cleaned them thoroughly. This got rid of that smelly odor that my washer had for quite a while now.
9. I checked and saw water on the transmission disc where the lower bearing is. I figured that the lower bearing needed replacement as well.
10. I removed the lower transmission by removing the blots on the motor, and undid the belt from the pulley and gear.
11. While I had the brake pads exposed, I also applied a touch of automotive brake cleaner and brake spray.
11. I replaced the lower bearing with the new part, reattached the transmission ( I replaced the small "o-ring" on the transmission arm) and the motor and belt.
12. I replaced the tub seal bearing following the instructions provided with the new part.
13. I put the tub back, screwed on the new hub using the hub wrench, then CAREFULLY gave a couple of taps with my hammer and falthead screwdriver to tighten it. I placed a new gasket on the hub, screwed on the new seal nut, then repositioned the inner basket on.
14. After re-installing the tub and the inner basket, I put back the plastic ring that holds both tub and basket. I re-installed the auger and the cup.
I ran the machine for a test before I put the housing back in place to check for any leaks. THERE WERE NO MORE LEAKS, AND THE MACHINE SOUNDED AS GREAT AS IT DID WHEN WE PURCHASED IT 5+ YEARS AGO!
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