Maytag Washer Bearings
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Popular Maytag Washer Bearings
Your Price
$59.47
In Stock
Maytag Washer Two-piece Split Ring Bearing
Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.
I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem.
With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.
I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.
Your return policy is great.
Edward Brennan Read more...
PartSelect Number PS334199
Manufacturer Part Number 279441
This dryer drum bearing ring kit is a vital component that supports the front of the drum, reducing friction and ensuring smooth rotation during operation. Engineered for durability and quiet performance, it helps minimize noise and vibration while preventing wear between the drum and the dryer casing. Replacing a worn or damaged bearing ring can restore proper drum movement and prevent further damage to internal components. Common symptoms of a failing bearing include loud noises, excessive vibration, and difficulty with drum rotation. Installing this part helps maintain efficient and safe dryer operation.
Fixes these symptoms
- Drum Not Spinning
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
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Installation Instructions
Edward from Andover, NJ
Dryer was sqeaking loudly when running
I Looked on internet sites for this type of problem.Most sites said the support rollers could cause this.
I found your site PartSelect and with help of your diagrams of the machine ordered the parts I thought were needed plus other parts that might cause the problem.
With machine torn down I replaced the rollers.
I had also ordered the main drive belt and idler assembly with the rollers and these also needed replacement. It is a good idea to order other suspect parts when doing this type of repair since you can return the parts not needed.
Your return policy is great.
Edward Brennan Read more...
Your Price
$104.33
In Stock
Maytag Washer Tub Seal And Bearing Kit
PartSelect Number PS3503261
Manufacturer Part Number W10435302
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
- Spinning Issues
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Installation Instructions
DENNIS from OELWEIN, IA
Washer was noisy, Top seal and bearing bad
You better be confident in your repair abilities before you try this. Get the washer to a large open area, like your garage, because there are a lot of parts. Take off the back, pop the top, unsnap and remove the top ring off outer tub, take out the agitator, take out the inner tub, disconnect the pumps and electrical wires, take screw out of rotor on bottom and remove rotor, take out 4 bolts to remove motor magnet ring, and now you may be ready to unhook the outer tub from the 4 supports (springs) and lift it out of the metal frame. Then unscrew the bottom nut on the shaft, use blocks to hold the tub in place, and carefully tap the old shaft and bearings out. The instructions that came with the kit helped. The shaft and top seal comes out the top first. Then you can tap out upper bearing and then the lower bearing and spacers.Instructions called for a special tool to install the bearings but you can carefully tap them in. You will need blocks to support the tub while you tap them. First block under the tub and install top bearing, then flip over and use several blocks to hold tub while you drop the shaft, spacers, and tap lower bearing in. I did not need to tap on the inner ring of the bearings, just the outer ring. Be very careful not to damage the seal in the bearings. That's why you must tap them in careful and slow. Them install the nut on the bottom. You need to hold the shaft with damaging it while you tighten the nut. I used the hard nylon gear from the inner tub which I was replacing with a new one. Then put it all back together.
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Your Price
$45.29
In Stock
Maytag Washer Transmission Pulley And Bearing Kit
PartSelect Number PS2003651
Manufacturer Part Number 12002213
This transmission pulley and bearing kit, also known as thrust bearing kit or washer pulley and bearing kit, includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, two upper race washers, and one lower race washer. These genuine Whirlpool parts are plastic and are not sold individually. The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin, will not drain, or has no agitation. The washer will need to be tilted on its back or side to access the bottom. The tools needed to complete this repair are a small flat blade screw driver and a pair of slip joint pliers.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Spinning Issues
- Spins slowly
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Installation Instructions
James from Hueytown, AL
Washer tub would not spin, pump would empty water from tub.
Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt.
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Your Price
$70.95
In Stock
Maytag Washer Tub Bearing Kit
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2347235
Manufacturer Part Number 6-2040130
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is not spinning. The tub bearing kit is fastened in the middle of the outer tub of your washer. The tub bearing ensures the inner tub is spinning effortlessly. If the rub bearing is faulty it might lock up and cause the washer to stop spinning. This is an OEM part that is obtained straight from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Spinning Issues
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Dan from Mason, OH
Washer Leaking and Spin Cycle stopping frequenly
* Remove front Panel* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK Read more...
Your Price
$90.87
In Stock
Maytag Washer Centerpost Bearing And Seal Assembly
PartSelect Number PS334447
Manufacturer Part Number 285203
This assembly comes with one transmission stem seal, two center post bearings, and three agitator shaft seals.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Your Price
$9.62
In Stock
Maytag Washer Spin Tube Bearing
PartSelect Number PS11746369
Manufacturer Part Number WP8546462
This spin tube T-Bearing is an inch long. Sold individually.
Your Price
$9.62
In Stock
Maytag Washer Agitator Cam Bearing
PartSelect Number PS11741241
Manufacturer Part Number WP3363661
Introducing the Whirlpool Agitator Cam Bearing, a genuine OEM part compatible with specific models from Whirlpool. This essential appliance part is perfect for ensuring a proper and smooth surface for your agitator cam to rotate on. Designed with precision, this bearing may slightly differ in size and shape compared to other parts but promises uncompromised quality and performance. The installation process is straightforward, though we advise you to unplug the washer before starting and to wear work gloves for protection. Trust in Whirlpool's commitment to durability and efficiency with this Agitator Cam Bearing. Please verify your model before order placement for perfect fit.
Fixes these symptoms
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Craig from Polk City, FL
Washer not agitating
On top of the agitator is a flat cap that is held in place by the friction of an o-ring, there are no fasteners. I would imagine one could get under the lip with a small screwdriver or butter knife to pop it off but I chose simply using my fingernails so as to not disfigure the cap. Under the cap you will find the head of the only bolt that holds the assembly together it is a 7/16 head and because it is in a 4" deep well your will need a 6" extension for your ratchet. Once the bolt is out the top of the agitator, the assembly with the cogs removes by hand. Set the assembly upside down on the counter, slide the black plastic ring off, pull the cogs out with your fingertips, install the new cogs put a new black ring on and set the assembly back in the agitator. Reinstall bolt. As the bolt is down in a tube, you cannot set it in place with your fingers and it will fall out of the socket. To hold the bolt in the socket during positioning you can either put a gob of Vaseline on the bolt head to hold it in the socket or form a small piece of paper over the bolt head and set it into the socket, the friction of the paper will hold the bolt into the socket. Took me less then 10 minutes, good luck
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Your Price
$16.07
In Stock
Maytag Washer Bearing
PartSelect Number PS12348055
Manufacturer Part Number W11168238
Introducing the genuine OEM BEARING Lid hinge bushing from Whirlpool, an essential part designed for certain Whirlpool models. This Lid hinge bushing plays a crucial role in reducing friction between the hinge and the washer top, ensuring a smooth operation each time the lid opens and closes. It is highly recommended that this part be installed by unplugging the washer first, and putting on work gloves for safety. Please remember to confirm that this component fits your model before making a purchase, as parts may slightly differ in size and shape. Trust in Whirlpool for durable, reliable appliance parts.
Your Price
$18.22
Special Order
Maytag Washer Rear Bearing
PartSelect Number PS11739437
Manufacturer Part Number WP22003441
This part is located near the tub's brake assembly.
Installation Instructions
John from Spring Valley, CA
No spin. Pump working. Smell of burning rubber.
I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and installed the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah!
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Your Price
$12.85
In Stock
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