Maytag Washer Bearings

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Popular Maytag Washer Bearings

Your Price
$54.16
  In Stock
Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(11)
PartSelect Number PS2003651
Manufacturer Part Number 12002213
This transmission pulley and bearing kit, also known as thrust bearing kit or washer pulley and bearing kit, includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, two upper race washers, and one lower race washer. These genuine Whirlpool parts are plastic and are not sold individually. The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin, will not drain, or has no agitation. The washer will need to be tilted on its back or side to access the bottom. The tools needed to complete this repair are a small flat blade screw driver and a pair of slip joint pliers.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Burning smell
  • Noisy
  • Pumps but will not spin
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
James from Hueytown, AL
Washer tub would not spin, pump would empty water from tub.
Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt. Read more...
Your Price
$114.28
  In Stock
Tub Seal and Bearing Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(10)
PartSelect Number PS3503261
Manufacturer Part Number W10435302
This kit includes the shaft, 3 bearings, seals , grease, adhesive and the spanner nut, which is NOT sold separately. Also may require a bearing driver tool to install. PS3503307
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
DENNIS from OELWEIN, IA
Washer was noisy, Top seal and bearing bad
You better be confident in your repair abilities before you try this. Get the washer to a large open area, like your garage, because there are a lot of parts. Take off the back, pop the top, unsnap and remove the top ring off outer tub, take out the agitator, take out the inner tub, disconnect the pumps and electrical wires, take screw out of rotor on bottom and remove rotor, take out 4 bolts to remove motor magnet ring, and now you may be ready to unhook the outer tub from the 4 supports (springs) and lift it out of the metal frame. Then unscrew the bottom nut on the shaft, use blocks to hold the tub in place, and carefully tap the old shaft and bearings out. The instructions that came with the kit helped. The shaft and top seal comes out the top first. Then you can tap out upper bearing and then the lower bearing and spacers.Instructions called for a special tool to install the bearings but you can carefully tap them in. You will need blocks to support the tub while you tap them. First block under the tub and install top bearing, then flip over and use several blocks to hold tub while you drop the shaft, spacers, and tap lower bearing in. I did not need to tap on the inner ring of the bearings, just the outer ring. Be very careful not to damage the seal in the bearings. That's why you must tap them in careful and slow. Them install the nut on the bottom. You need to hold the shaft with damaging it while you tighten the nut. I used the hard nylon gear from the inner tub which I was replacing with a new one. Then put it all back together. Read more...
Your Price
$20.20
  In Stock
Rear Bearing
PartSelect Number PS11739437
Manufacturer Part Number WP22003441
This part is located near the tub's brake assembly.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John from Spring Valley, CA
No spin. Pump working. Smell of burning rubber.
I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and installed the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah! Read more...
Your Price
$45.65
  On Order
Lower Bearing Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect Number PS2003141
Manufacturer Part Number 12001562
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
John M from Saint Paul, IN
Loud noise during the spin cycle
Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!! Read more...
Your Price
$7.80
  In Stock
Spin Tube Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS11746369
Manufacturer Part Number WP8546462
This spin tube T-Bearing is an inch long. Sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
Your Price
$62.43
  In Stock
Centerpost Bearing and Seal Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS334447
Manufacturer Part Number 285203
This assembly comes with one transmission stem seal, two center post bearings, and three agitator shaft seals.
Fixes these symptoms
Your Price
$47.93
  In Stock
Main Tub Bearing Assembly
PartSelect Number PS11742242
Manufacturer Part Number WP40004201P
This triangular main tub bearing assembly is five inches long. It is made of metal.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Gary from Dousman, WI
Noisy during spin cycle
This was the second time for the repair. The original bearing lasted 5 years then became noisy. Replaced it, and the unit worked great 5 more years and the noise came back. So I knew exactly what needed fixing what to order, parts wise. This is not a project for the faint of heart, you will completely disassemble your washer to change out the main bearing. Roughly here are the steps: 1, pull out the agitator with a good firm jerk up. 2, remove the rubber plug in the center of the drive hub, 3 remove the bolt you have just exposed. 4, pry up on the hub, use a puller if you have to to remove it. 5, pry off the cone shaped rubber seal and remove the large main nut from the drive shaft. 6, remove the 4 bolts holding tub, 7 remove the front panel and unscrew the front of the top panel, tip the top up. 8, lift out the tub, 9, remove the 6 large springs holdig the inner assembly to the base, 10, disconnect the water to tank hose and the fill level hose, 11, disconnect the motor cable at the motor, 12, free up the drain hose and pull it, 13, have a helper lift the inner assembly out and move it to a work area, 14, unbolt the drum from the base, motor, and counter weight 15, pry the drive hub off the transmission shaft, 16, remove the rubber seal from the drum, 17 flip the drum and remove the 3 bolts holding the bearing in place. Reverse to put it back. These steps are from memory so they may not be exact. The exploded views on PartsSelect.com web help, as to the instructions that come with the parts. Read more...
Your Price
$6.69
  In Stock
Ring, Thrust
PartSelect Number PS11743303
Manufacturer Part Number WP62658
Your Price
$14.86
  In Stock
BEARING
PartSelect Number PS10060009
Manufacturer Part Number W10708966
BEARING, BRAKE ROTOR
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect Number PS11738768
Manufacturer Part Number WP200835
Installation Instructions
John from Spring Valley, CA
No spin. Pump working. Smell of burning rubber.
I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and installed the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah! Read more...

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