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Direct Drive Motor Coupling – Part Number: 285753A
Direct Drive Motor Coupling – Part Number: 285753A Direct Drive Motor Coupling – Part Number: 285753A Direct Drive Motor Coupling – Part Number: 285753A https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/G3DQDMEU.gif

Direct Drive Motor Coupling

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PartSelect Number PS1485646
Manufacturer Part Number 285753A
Manufactured by Whirlpool

This direct drive motor coupling, also known as a coupling kit, is a newer version of the part and is used in your washer. The part includes 1 rubber coupling, 2 drive lugs, and has new metal sleeves that have been added in order to strengthen the part. This part works between the transmission and the motor; it is only used on direct drive washers with no belt. In order to replace this part, you will need a flat blade screw driver, a quarter inch nut driver, and a Phillips screw driver. Before making this repair remember to disconnect the power supply, and both fill hoses.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Inglis, Crosley, Amana, Maytag, Admiral, Magic Chef.

This part works with the following products: Washer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Will not agitate.
  • Noisy.
  • Spins slowly.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Most Helpful

Question:

When I’m using my washer it is no longer spinning but it is making sounds like it is, and it is still draining normally, what should I do?

Maddie
Answer:

Hello Maddie, we recommend that you inspect the motor coupling first. If the motor coupling is faulty, the tub will not spin properly. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

28 people found this helpful.
Question:

My washing machine is acting up and i think it could be the motor coupling or the agitator but would like to confirm. It is spinning during the wash cycle but during the spin cycle it isnt. The basket is spinning good but I think the agitator stopped spinning. Also not sure if it is relevant but the washer seems to be draining normally.

Ronnie
Answer:

Hi Ronnie, unfortunately it sounds like the transmission is bad and needs replacing. This is the transmission you would need for your model 3360629, best of luck with this repair.

8 people found this helpful.
Question:

After wash cycle it starts to spin but not drain the water out. I already replaced the direct drive pump.

Jason for model number GSX9885JQ0
Answer:

Hi Jason, There is one other part that might be causing your appliance not to drain. The Lid Switch Assembly. If that part fails your appliance will not drain. However you should also check all of your hoses to make sure that nothing is blocking them. That will also not allow your appliance to start to drain. Good luck with your repair!

6 people found this helpful.
Question:

The basket and the agitator were not working and I diagnosed that I needed to replace the motor coupling. That was a while ago. Now it stopped spinning and the motor coupling seems to still be in good condition, what else should I be looking for?

Cleve
Answer:

Hi Cleve, it sounds like you may have a problem with your lid switch. Try closing the lid of your washer, if you hear a clicking sound that is a good indicator that it is working. If you do not hear a clicking sound you most likely need to replace the lid switch. We also recommend checking the lid switch wiring harness connection, as it might have come loose during your motor coupling repair. I hope this helps.

6 people found this helpful.
Question:

My washer fills up normal but will not agitate and makes a sound like a drill also will not drain.

April for model number RAB5232EW1
Answer:

Hello April, thank you for contacting us. It does sound like the direct drive coupling has given out. This direct drive motor coupling, also known as a coupling kit, is a newer version of the part and is used in your washer. The piece includes new metal sleeves that have been added in order to strengthen the part. Hope this helps!

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

Washer makes a high pitch noise while draining water. It spins and dries clothes just fine. The noise is sporadic. Some times it will do it when spinning. Not sure if it's the mortor coupler or the clutch assembly.

Shannon for model number LSR7233BW0
Answer:

Hi Shannon, Thank you for your question. For a problem like that it sounds as though one of those two parts has either debris causing the noise or they have worn down a bit. I think you should check your clutch assembly first, and then also do a physical check on your coupler as well. Without looking at your appliance myself, I could not say which one it would be exactly because it could be either. Good luck with your repair.

4 people found this helpful.
Question:

Will this part fix....start a wash cycle, it fills up and agitates for a decent time but then starts spinning but not draining, it's pumping the water back up top into the washer and will continue to do so until you stop the machine

Jason for model number GSX9885JQ0
Answer:

Hello Jason, Thank you for the question. Sounds like you need to replace the Direct Drive Water Pump. This direct drive water pump, also known as washing machine drain pump. If this part is defective it will not pump the water out of the appliance. Good luck with this repair!

Related Parts: Direct Drive Water Pump
4 people found this helpful.
Question:

I changed the the agitator dogs and whole kit but washer still barely agitates and agitator turns easily both ways. Do i need the replace the motor couplings or get a new washer? Repairman wants to charge me $200 to come look at it. There is no belt that i can see. Please help i am a single woman on a tight budget , but very handy your videos have helped me repair dryer already.

Alana for model number ITW4300SQ3
Answer:

Hi Alana, Thank you for your inquiry. Some other parts that may fix the issue are the agitator, the agitator coupler and cap and bolt, the direct drive motor coupling, the drive belt, the transmission, the drive motor, the timer, the lid switch, the selector switch and the water level switch. To verify if the electrical parts are causing the issue you need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of each part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

My washer is draining.However the wash is sopping wet. When I open it during spin cycle it does appear to be moving, not sure if spinning as fast as it should.

Jennifer for model number TAWB600PQ0
Answer:

Hi Jennifer, Thank you for the question. Normally this is caused by a bad Clutch Assembly, PartSelect Number PS334641 or Direct Drive Motor Coupling,PartSelect Number PS1485646. I suggest taking the appliance a part and checking this two parts to see what part is damaged and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps!

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

I would like some advice before I start buying random parts, my washer fills up but will not agitate, rinse or spin. I had just completed a load of laundry before it quit working and it seemed to be working fine. Thank you so much for your help.

Patrica for model number ATW4475TQ0
Answer:

Hi Patrica, Thank you for the question.If the timer has just stopped and you can not hear it clicking or humming like it is working through the cycles, I suggest replacing the timer. Hope this helps!

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

Washer makes a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle until the tub stops spinning

Stefan for model number WTW57ESVW1
Answer:

Hi Stefan, Thank you for the question. Sounds like you need to replace the Center post Bearing and Seal Assembly. This can cause a banging or rubbing noise. I also recommend replacing the Direct Drive Motor Coupling. Both parts are knob to make noise when they wear out and when replacing one of the parts it is recommends to replace both. Hope this helps!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

The load in my machine was off balance and rocking my machine violently. I went over and opened the lid and it stopped spinning. Now it will not spin at all and doesn't make any sound when i put it on spin cycle. What do you think is wrong?

eric for model number 110.28803890
Answer:

Hello Eric, thank you for contacting us. It is possible that the lid switch could be defective. The machine will not start at all if the lid switch is faulty. You can test the lid switch with a multi-meter. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Lid Switch Assembly
2 people found this helpful.
Question:

The washer does not agitate and sounds like the motor is stuck, driving but not spinning, during the fill cycle. Everything works on the spin cycle. Will new couplings work or is this a transmission problem?

Michael for model number WTW57ESVW0
Answer:

Hi Michael, Thank you for your question. It could be either honestly. I would suggest checking your clutch assembly and your couplings to see if they are worn or damaged. If both of those parts are fine, it may be your transmission that is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

My machine was washing just fine and it quit just before the rinse cycle. There was a strong burning smell. I unplugged the machine for 15 minutes then plugged it back in and went to the extra rinse cycle and it worked fine. Any idea what this could be?

Steve for model number LSN2000JQ2
Answer:

Hi Steve, Thank you for your inquiry. If you are experiencing a burning smell from your washer, there are a few parts you may have to look at to see if they are causing the problem. The direct drive motor coupling, the clutch assembly, the lid switch, the plug, the direct drive water pump and the burner box to name a few. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

Second question is there any literature on "regular scheduled maintenance" for a Whirlpool washing machine: Model number lbr4121jq1 by that i mean, any manuals to hopefully head off any future problems? Thank you for your time, have a pleasant rest of the day. ~cody

Cody for model number LBR4121JQ1
Answer:

Hi Cody, That is good question. For information on scheduled maintenance for your appliance, you can try entering your model number on a website called manualsonline.com to see if you can find information or you may have to contact the manufacturer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

My washer agitates fine and spins as it should on the rinse cycle. It does not spin at all on the final spin cycle and clothes are soaked and a small amt of water is left in basket, or it spins for a short amt of time and clothes are still too wet. It does not make any difference the size or content of the load, ex, towels or a very small load of knits. Suggestions?

Karen for model number 110.27822790
Answer:

Hello Karen, thank you for contacting us. It sounds like an issue with the drain pump PS11741239. You can test this with a multi meter. Good luck with the repair!

Related Parts: Direct Drive Water Pump
1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Washer has a number of wash cycles ( normal, gental so on) but spin only works on one

John for model number LLR8245BWO
Answer:

Hi John, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the direct drive motor coupling, the clutch assembly, the agitator directional cogs, the agitator repair kit, the direct drive motor pump, and the lid switch assembly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

While in spin cycle it makes a whining sound but spins

Warren for model number Lsr8233eQ0
Answer:

Hi Warren, Thank you for your inquiry. There are a few parts that you will need to check to see what is causing the issue. You will need to check the direct drive motor coupling, the agitator directional cogs, the agitator repair kit, the clutch assembly, the drive block, the springs and the direct drive water pump. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My washer won't start agitating unless I slam the lid. I changed lid switch but still doesn't want to work unless I mess with lid. Sometimes it won't change cycles

Debbie for model number CAWS966RQ0
Answer:

Hi Debbie, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the lid hinges to see if they are bent or damaged. The lid will need to close properly and level in order to engage the lid switch and send it to the next cycle. Also check the small rubber bumpers and makes sure they are both there and keeping the lid level.Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

During last spin cycle after it is complete, instead of going into shut down mode this spin cycle restarts, completes the spin cycle and restats agin completes the cycle and repeats once more. Never going into the stop mode. The wash load is done and to get a new wash load going i have to hold down the start/pause button which shuts the machine down. I can then start the wash load in a normal manner until the finish of the last spin cycle with the problem re-occuring. Any cause ?

JOSEPH for model number Maytag Centennial Mod.MWCA425BW1
Answer:

Hello Joseph, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: lid switch, timer switch, and control board. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Hi, my washing machine does not agitate. It spins fine and everything seems to work fine. I replaced the agitator repair kit and checked the direct drive motor coupling, but there is no visible damage. Could it be that is just worn out or what other parts might be faulty?

David for model number WTW5200VQ2
Answer:

Hello David, Thanks for your question. We would advise checking the drive block as well for any signs of damage and replacing it if it is not intact. I hope this helps.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Admiral washer( atw4475vq1 ) gets stuck in the rinse cycle. I have to manually turn the knob to spin cycle if i want to drain the water and complete the load. Help me find a solution please? Admiral dryer (aed 4675yq1) will dry clothes only after several times. It gets a little hot but not much. I run it all day to dry one single load. Please recommend a part? I want to fix both the washer and the dryer.

Kary for model number ATW4475VQ1
Answer:

Hello Kary, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend the following parts to fix your issue with the washer: lid switch, direct drive motor coupling, and check your timer switch. You can do so with a multimeter. To fix the dryer issue, we recommend the following parts: Thermal Cut-Off Kit, the internal bias and high limit thermostats (you can check these with a multimeter as well), and Heating Element Connection Wire Kit. Also make sure that your lint filter is clean and no air leaking from the seals. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My washer spins during rinse cycle but clothing is still wet after the spin is completed what could be the problem

Mary for model number LSR7233EQ0
Answer:

Hello Mary, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: drain pump, drain hose, lid switch, direct drive motor coupling and the clutch. With the drain hose, make sure there are no kinks, clogs or leaks. With the other parts, you can test them with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My washer fills up at the beginning of the wash cycle and will agitate vigorously, like it's supposed to, then drain, but won't fill back up with water. It will just agitate with out it. Sometimes the washer will just sit there with water in it doing nothing and i'll have to reset it to wake it back up so it will drain. The warm water hose (the end connected to the washer) has a small drip coming from the metal piece. After the washer is done spinning my clothes still have excess water in them although, they are not sopping wet. And lastly, i have been noticing spots showing up on my clothes after they are taken out of the dryer even though i do not use fabric softener. The spots on the clothes have been showing up for a couple months now, but the washer not filling up, pausing and not spinning correctly just happened last night. I did a few small loads of laundry to find out what was going on and i found all these issues. Is there just one part that is causing all the problems or multiple parts that need to be replaced? If multiple parts need to be replaced would it be better to buy a new washer instead? I was told that my model was dependable and worth fixing, but is it really? Doesn't seem too dependable now.

Amanda for model number LSR8233EQ0
Answer:

Hello Amanda, Thank you for your inquiry. I would start with the drain pump, you can test this with a multimeter to see if it has continuity. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Check your hoses as well to make sure there are no leaks or clogs. I would also check your agitator parts, such as the cogs and repair kit. Test the water inlet valve and timer switch as well. The other part to check is the filter plugs. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Does this part work with my Whirlpool washer? I'm confused, because when i type in the model number, it took me to this part, but when i check on compatibility, it shows Kenmore models. Also, when i try to go the spin cycle, the washer makes a loud sound, but does not spin at all. It drains and fills just fine. I'm assuming i need this part. Please advise...thanks!

Josh for model number LXR7244JQ2
Answer:

Hi Josh, Thank you for the question. This part works on your model and some Kenmore as well. You can remove the part to check for damage before placing the order to ensure this is the part you need. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

Hello, my washer wouldn't spin, so I replaced the motor coupling. Your video was very helpful in teaching me how to do that. I put every thing back together and the washer seemed to be working so i put a few towels in and started washing them and then there was a burning smell coming from the washer so i turned it off and now it won't turn back on. It makes a noise, but doesn't do anything. Did i mess something up or is there another issue? Thanks!

Diane for model number LXR9245EQ1
Answer:

Hi Diane, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the Clutch Assembly,PartSelect Number: PS334641. While installing the couplings something made have come lose and might just need to be reinstalled. Hope this helps!

Question:

My machine spins with it empty or very little laundry in it. As soon as it has some weight in the tub it will not spin. Motor coupling looks in good shape when i took it out. What else should i look at

Doug for model number 11023032101
Answer:

Hello Doug, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: clutch, direct drive basket drive kit with clutch, transmission gear case, drive block, bearings, drive motor, lid switch and agitator cogs.Hope this helps!

Question:

The washer will not spin and it will not agitate. I have inspected the direct drive motor coupling and it is fine. It makes noises as though it is agitating and spinning but nothing happens. Does this mean the transmission is bad?

B.C for model number Wtw5300sq0
Answer:

Hi B.C, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the Agitator Directional Cogs, Part Number: PS388034 and under the Agitator Base, Part Number: PS11741151 for wear or damage. If you can hear that the appliance is agitating and spinning that usually means the transmission is ok. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My washer fills with water but that is about it. It will not drain, spin or agitate. When i prompt it to do any of those things i hear a soft humming sound but nothing happens. Please help!

Mike for model number WTW57ESVW1
Answer:

Hi Mike, Thank you for your question. If your washer is not working after filling with water, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the lid switch, the direct drive motor coupling, capacitor, motor start, the drive motor, the power cord, the pump, the clutch assembly, the agitator directional cogs and the connector. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Hi. My washer will not agitate or spin. It fills and empty's no problem. You can hear a sound like the motors running but no spinning or agitating. I can get the sound to stop and stop by opening and closing the lid.

Mike for model number whirlpool lsc8244bq0
Answer:

Hello Mike, thank you for your question. It sounds like the lid switch is the problem. If the unit will not agitate or spin, and you're getting the noise as you open and shut the lid, I would recommend replacing the Lid Switch Assembly Part Number: 285671. Good luck with your repair!

Question:

Kenmore washer leaves clothes drenched depending on the heaviness of the load i'm washing. Sometimes it takes 5 6 more times of me hitting the spin cycle to get the water out of the clothes. I've found if i do smaller loads, it will spin them dry the first time but not always. Heavier loads such as towels or blankets will cause me to have to remove half of the wet items, run the spin cycle 1 to 3 more times to finally remove all of the water from them, when that happens, i remove them, add to dryer, then add the other half of soaked clothes and repeat until all water is removed. I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Tonya for model number 11020902990
Answer:

HelloTonya, thank you for your question. It sounds like, on larger loads, the unit isn't getting up to a very fast speed to get all the water out of the clothes. There are a few parts you will want to check for wear and tear. Sometimes, you can't tell, visually, if these parts are bad, so you might have to replace them, to figure out which part is bad. The first parts I would recommend checking/replacing are Clutch Assembly Part Number: 285785, Direct Drive Motor Coupling Part Number: 285753A, Drive Block - 2 5/16" High Part Number: WP389140. I hope this helps!

Question:

My washer only seems to be agitating in one direction. I replaced the agitator dogs, but it is still only agitating in one direction. Everything else functions fine, fills, spins, and drains. Not sure where to go from here.

Crystal for model number WTW5100VQ2
Answer:

Hi Crystal, Thank you for the question. I suggest removing the agitator and checking the teeth in the bottom of the agitator and the Direct Drive Motor Couplings,PartSelect Number: PS1485646 for wear. Hope this helps!

Question:

Hi, my washer would`t drain and the timer would`nt advance, so after checking for any blockages i found that the lid switch was broken off at the screws. I replaced the switch, hooked everything up thinking i was good. The washer filled with water but nothing is happening. The timer is advancing through the cycles but it isn`t agitating nor is it draining.

David for model number LSR5233AW0
Answer:

Hello David, thank you for writing. If the lid switch was replaced, but the unit still doesn't agitate or spin, I would check the switch itself first to be sure the part is not defective. If you test the part and it is functioning properly there are a few parts to check next. You will need to check the You will need to check the direct drive motor coupling, the agitator cogs, the clutch assembly, and the drive block, I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My washer stopped on the final spin cycle and had a strong burning smell. I manually stopped the cycle. I have unplugged it and taken the cover off and manually drained the water out. Iam on a tight budget and would like to fix this myself. Any suggestions?

Susan for model number LSR7233DQ1
Answer:

Hello Susan, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: direct drive motor coupling, clutch assembly and direct drive motor. Check the motor couplings and clutch for any visible wear and tear. You can test the motor with a multimeter to see if it has continuity. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The washer stops spinning but I still hear the motor running and making a sound - a fast clicking sound. Would that be the motor coupling that was damaged?

Tony for model number LSQ9650PW2
Answer:

Hello Tony, Thanks for your question. The motor coupling is a common reason why this situation could occur. The agitator directional cogs may also want to be examined for signs of wear and tear, along with the clutch assembly. I hope this helps.

Question:

I have read as many threads as i could and didn't see anything simular - here is my issue: 1) washer making different clanking noises during low speed only or will completely not do anything for that cycle 3) whines before going into spin cycle before rinse 3) whines for final spin cycle for 5seconds thens shuts off. If i let it alone for about 30 minutes and pushs and pull knob it will start the spin cycle.

Belinda for model number LSR7233EZ0
Answer:

Hi Belinda, Thank you for your question. If your washer is making noise and is shutting down during a cycle, you will need to investigate where the sound is coming from. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the direct drive motor coupling, the agitator cogs, the clutch assembly, the drive block, the suspension and tub springs, the pump, the thrust spacer, the water inlet valve, the gearcase and the tub wear pads. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

We had a burning smell coming from the washer, we replaced the drain pump and it got better but it still smelled. Next we replaced the motor coupling. When doing a test load with just water, it seemed better, it agitated better than before - until it got to the spin cycle and now the burning rubber smell is worse than ever, and then it started making a loud squealing noise. What should we try next? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Nancy for model number 11028912790
Answer:

Hello Nancy, thank you for your question. It sounds like the issue is with the Clutch Assembly Part Number: 285785. I would suggest replacing this part. I hope this helps!

Question:

Pretty sure i need to order a direct drive coupling for my Whirlpool washer. Need to know the easiest way to diagnose it and fix it. Here is the serial number as well. #crq127162

Josh for model number LXR7244KQ2
Answer:

Hi Josh, Thank you for your question. To verify if the direct drive motor coupling is preventing your washer from working correctly, try doing a regular wash cycle. If your washer fills with water to the desired level and it agitates as it should through the cycle, then motor coupler is fine. If the washer does not agitate, try setting the dial to the spin cycle. If the washer drains, but does not spin and you hear a the motor making a noise, then the coupler is broken and it will need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My washer spins and drains but the clothes still seem very wet. I purchased the agitator repair kit and made that repair, but it did not fix the problem. What else should i try? Thank you

Lisa for model number LSR8010PQ2
Answer:

Hi Lisa, Thank you for your question. If the clothes are still very wet after after a cycle is complete, there are are few thing you will need to check. Make sure the washer is level and that the load is balanced as this can sometimes cause an issue with the water not being spun out of the clothes. If there are excessive suds in the washer this can an issue with the cycle not completing and spinning the clothes out. Also, check to see if the drain hose is clogged and there is no debris in the pump. If there is an issue with the pump you may have to replace it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Washer makes loud clicking noise during agitation only , any help with what parts i need?

ted for model number TAWS700EQ1
Answer:

Hello Ted, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: Agitator Directional Cogs, Direct Drive Motor Coupling, Agitator Repair Kit, the clutch assembly and the gearcase. Hope this helps!

Question:

My washer works, but it makes a high pitched whine when it runs. The only time it doesn't make the noise is when filling up. What could be the problem?

Daniel for model number LSR6332KQ0
Answer:

Hi Daniel, Thank you for the question.You may need to listen to see where the sound is coming from. It might be the water inlet valve at the back of the appliance where the fill hoses connect to the appliance. PartSelect Number PS334646. Hope this helps!

Question:

My washer washes fine and then will also rinse. When it does the last spin it makes a very loud squeaking noise.

Billie for model number TAWS800JQ1
Answer:

Hi Billie, Thank you for your question. If your washer is making a squeaking noise during the final spin cycle, it sounds like the main tub bearing is worn out. There are some other parts that you will need to check. You will need to check the direct drive motor coupling, the agitator coupling, the clutch assembly, the drive belt, the springs, the thrust spacer, the pump, the water inlet valve, the tub wear pads and the gearcase. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Just replaced the clutch and coupling (washing machine works great) but now there is a small leak that I noticed right before the rinse cycle. I checked all of the hoses and do not see a leak. It looks like it must be coming from the vicinity of the pump. Do you think I should replace the pump?

Cheryl for model number 110.24732300
Answer:

Hi Cheryl, Thank you for the question. While replacing the clutch and coupling a seal may have come loose.I suggest taking a look to see if there is a seal that is loose or damaged. Hope this helps!

Question:

My washer works fine, but there is a high pitched whine during the wash, rinse, drain and spin cycles. I was told that the belt need to be replaced and i wanted to check here first before attempting to replace it myself. Is my belt too worn and needing replacement? Or could it be something else?

Daniel for model number LSR6332KQ0
Answer:

Hi Daniel, Thank you for the question. The best way to tell is to look at the belt and see if it shows signs of wear. Hope this helps!

Question:

The washer makes a clank noise when it stops and it does not spin fast enough to remove all the water

Taeho for model number RAS6233PQ0
Answer:

Hi Taeho, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Direct Drive Motor Coupling first and if this did not correct the issue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. Hope this helps!

Question:

Washer stops when on spin. Makes buzzing nose but won't turn or drain. Where do i start?

Jeremiah for model number WTW5200VQ2
Answer:

Hi Jeremiah, Thank you for your question. If your washer is not spinning I hope this helps. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the direct drive motor coupling, the clutch assembly, the agitator directional cogs, the direct drive motor pump and the lid switch. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Washer fills agitates then stops i believe it it the control timer switch it seems to just stop after it agitates there is a hum but nothing happens the dial does not advance and it will not drain so i'm thinking it is the timer switch because it had no issues till this

john for model number LSQ8543JQ1
Answer:

Hello John, Thank you for your inquiry. You can check the timer switch with a multimeter to see if it has continuity. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter works, there are videos available on YouTube to assist you. Hope this helps!

Question:

The dial on the upper right side doesn't turn anymore. I can't set the time for the wash cycle. How do I replace this?

Barbara for model number 11092591200
Answer:

Hi Barbara, Thank you for the question. If the timer shaft is not turning with out without the knob, you will need to have it replaced, PartSelect Number: PS11741998. Here is a link to a video on how to replace a timer. The appliance is not the same but it will have the same basic installation steps. Hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=336SzDWtcs0

Question:

My washer makes a weird noise (not a thumping, more like a low pitch squeal) when it starts up and starts spinning. It doesn't remove all of the water. The clothes are real wet. I've over rode the safety switch to watch all cycles and it looks fine. The coupling change looks very easy but is there anything else that might be a problem.

Carey for model number LSR7233DQ0
Answer:

Hi Carey, Thank you for your inquiry. If the water is not draining from your washer, then There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the pump, the lid switch assembly, the direct drive motor coupling, the clutch assembly and the lid strike. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My agitator moves back and forth but does not ever rotate? What is the solution part# 285753a?

Gary for model number RTW4100WQ0
Answer:

Hi Gary, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the direct drive motor coupling, the lid switch, the clutch assembly, the fabric softener dispenser and the gearcase. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 242 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 242

964 of 1023 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Jeff from Wayne, NJ

No movement from basket & agitator

The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy.
First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump.
The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed.
One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary.
Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.

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439 of 513 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Dexter from Milwaukie, OR

Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose

After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom." I figured out from there which symptom the washer had and read what other people were saying and how they made the repairs. Basically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator. I focused on the loud noise first and decided I needed to replace the clutch/brake assemblies. I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video! After removing the console, back panel and cabinet then laying the machine on its back just as seen on the video, I had access to the water pump, motor, transmission and related clutch/brake parts. As it turned out I did not need the clutch/brake assembly but as a precaution and because the parts were cheap, I replaced the motor coupling, water pump and tub wear pads. I decided to replace the agitator assembly because of several worn parts associated with the dog ears/drive shaft ETC. I put the machine back upright and took off the top cap on the agitator, then there is an inner cap with seal that gives access to the 7/16" bolt you must remove to remove the agitator. However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring (has several clips around the outer tub), then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic. In this process I also noticed where my leaks (did I say Leaks) were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. and you should be good to go.

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204 of 215 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Hugo from Frisco, TX

Broken coupling

Very easy -
1. Removed hoses from the pump
2. Removed Wiring harness from the motor
3. Unscrewed saftey screws from both clamps which hold the motor against the motor bracket.
4. Using a screw driver I easily removed/pryed the clamps from the motor.
5. I then removed the broken plastic coupler from the motor shaft and installed the new one coupler.
6. I did the same thing on the clutch side.
7. I set the Rubber coupler in clutch side.
8. Put motor back on until couplers joined together.
9. Placed Brackets back on Motor (patience here).
10. screwed back saftey screws on clamps.
11. connected hoses back.

Thats it... 45 minutes at most .. Save me from having to buy a new easher. I was convinced I was going to have too until I peeked underneatch the washer and saw the rubber coupler on the ground...

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99 of 116 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Ernest from Oakdale, CT

Would not spin unless helped

Turned off water supply, disconnected hoses so I could lay on its back.( drain hose also ) have something to catch all the water in. There will be some residual water so have something to wipe it up. Removed agitater, then I removed the spanner nut with hammer and punch. layed it on its back, removed the three mounting bolts that hold the gearcase to the tub support. Removed wire harness and ground wire , pulled gearcase and shaft out . Removed spin tube thrust washer, removed support ring from groove in shaft , removed retaining ring , slid clutch off shaft ,installed new clutch. Take care to watch how parts are removed so that they are installed in proper orientation. Since I had it this far apart I decided I should replace the coupling. I removed the two motor retainers , seperated coupling , pulled both halves off shafts , installed new halves , they go on a lttle tight , newer couplings have metal inserts , aligned coupling halves , inserted together , put motor retainers back on , tightened small screws,done.

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93 of 112 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Troy from Storm Lake, IA

Tub wouldn't turn, but motor would allow it to drain.

I took the two screws for the control panel out and tilted it up and back. Then remove the two metal clips which held the outer panel to the back panel. After disconnecting the power and water I tipped the washer on its back. I had to remove two clips to take the water pump off of the motor, then removed the two screws and clips which held in the motor. After removing the motor, I found the coupler was bad. To remove the gearcase, I took out the softener dispenser and removed one bolt to take out the agitator. Under the agitator was a clip. Three bolts held the gearcase to the frame. After removing them, the gearcase pulled straight out the bottom. Replacement was just a reverse process, with the addition of a light coat of grease to the gearcase shaft.

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76 of 82 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Ron from bellbrook, OH

Would not completely spin all the water out of clothes

I replaced the clutch and coupler. The clutch was well worn. My wife had washed three or four loads of heavy rugs and we think that was the cause of the premature wear. We now take the rugs to a commercial laundry. The coupler was OK but the new coupler has metal instead of plastic inserts so I decided to replace it while I had it torn apart. The machine is now running like it was new.

0.Disconnect supply hoses and electrical. Refer to the parts breakdown pictures on the PartSelect website. I refer to only the numbers so you may have to match the part to a particular diagram.
1. Remove the agitator by pulling up on the fabric softener dispenser #1. Clean out the excess liquid and "residual gunk". Grab one off the tabs of the plastic cap #23 and pull gently. The plastic cap (~ 3" in dia) is held in place by a rubber O-ring #24. The cap comes out easily exposing the bolt that holds the agitator to the drive shaft. Remove the bolt. and the agitator comes right out.
2. Turn the machine over on its front. You do not need to remove the back panel.
3. Get plenty of rags to soak up the water before you remove the hoses from the water pump #22 on the end of the motor. A quart or more remains in the pump and hoses. Remove the two hoses.
4. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor#29. There is a small plastic "catch" on the bottom of the connector that must be lifted to remove the connector. It's kind of hard to see but it's there and it's part of the connector.
5. Remove the three bolts #10 that hold the gearcase #9 to the bottom of the tub assembly.
6. Remove the gearcase, the drive shaft, the motor, and the water pump as one unit. You will need to lift them a little to get clearance because the tub has settled down. Just lift the tub and all and pull the assembly out. Get them out to a spot where you have room to work on them. The water pump may still have bit of water.
7. Replacing the clutch. Remove the clutch parts from the bag and lay them out where you can see everything. Refer to the instructions in the bag to select the correct spring and to see how the keeper spring is installed. Remove the washer, keeper ring, and clutch assembly, and plastic clip#15 remembering the order and the orientation. Install the new clutch in reverse order.
8. You will have one plastic part #15 left over. It goes on the bottom of the tub after you remove a key ring.
9. Replacing the coupler. note the orientation of the water pump#22 and remove it by removing the two retainers #21. set it aside.
10. Remove the screws#23 and retainer clips#17. Separate the motor#20 from the gearcase#9 to expose the coupler. Replace the coupler, reattach the motor to the gearcase, and the water pump to the motor.
11. The reassembly is pretty much a reverse of the assembly.

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70 of 79 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Roger from Swainsboro, GA

Wouldn't agitate or spin.

First, I removed two screws holding the bottom fiberboard panel in place, and the panel, to gain access to the motor, transmission, and pump. Unfortunately, I had the machine tilted to the front, and didn't have room to release the pump. I had to set the machine back up, and get manuvered around so I could lay it on it's back (I was working in the confines of a small laundry room). Once on it's back, I released the two clips holding the pump with a flat head screwdriver, lifted it up and out of the way without having to disconnect any of the piping, then I released the two clips holding the motor, again with a flathead screwdriver, disconnected the wiring plugs, and capacitor wires, then lifted the motor up and out of the machine. I then removed the two bolts holding the motor mounting plate to the transmission. Then, again using a large flat head screwdriver, I pried the transmission coupling half off the transmission shaft, I had to work it up, while turning the shaft, and then the same for the motor half. I then wiped off both shafts, and gently tapped both coupling halves back onto the shafts,
( this is easier using a socket that is just large enough to go over the shafts). Then I reinstalled the motor mounting plate, slipped the rubber coupling onto the transmission coupling half, lifted the motor into place, and rotated from the pump end to line up with the remaining holes on the rubber coupling. I then reinstalled the clips used to hold the motor in place, reinstallation only took thumb pressure to snap back into place, then, I reinstalled the pump, using the same method, and reconnected the wiring plugs and copacitor leads. Lastly, I reinstalled the fiberboard panel into the bottom, and set the machine upright, slid back into place, and reconnected the hoses and electrical, and tested the machine. Worked perfectly.
In actually took longer to disconnect the machine, and get it out and back in, than it did to replace the coupling.

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43 of 47 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Paul from Boonton, NJ

Washer wouldn't spin or agitate. Made louder-than-usual noise during those cycles.

1. Read many other repair stories for similar symptoms. PartSelect Forum was an excellent resource.

2. Posted my problem on PartSelect Forum and awaited reply. Read replies, and followed provided link to step-by-step guide for the procedure. PartSelect forum moderators were excellent advisors!

3. Performed the first half of the procedure to get to the diagnosed root cause. In some of the stories I had read, people had turned the washer on its back or tilted it up to get at the area from underneath. I am so glad I followed the conventional instructions, and left the washer standing and simply removed the cabinet. It was surprisingly easy. There's a reason why it was designed that way. I am also glad that I chose to remove the pump from the motor. While it is true that you don't *have* to remove the pump from the motor to get at the coupling...it hardly seems to make sense to remove the hoses instead. Removing the pump was incredibly easy, and by doing so, I never had to break any "wet" connections, and not one drop of water spilled over the course of the entire repair. (Even though I forgot to shut the water supply valves before I got started. Ooops! At least I remembered to unplug the power cord.)

4. But despite the open valves, the galoshes came into play not for their ability to repel water, but for their value as an electric insulator. I wrapped the galoshes around the handle of a long screwdriver when I discharged the motor's capacitor. :)

5. Ordered parts. Washed clothes in sink. Waited. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited some more. Washed more clothes in sink. Waited still more. Came very close to stopping payment to PartSelect because the very simple, commonly-requested part I ordered, which was supposedly in stock on the day I ordered it, didn't ship until the day it was supposed to arrive--even though I paid extra for expedited shipping. And I was never sent an e-mail to warn me that the parts were going to be delayed. And then to top it all off, rather than make up for some of the lost time caused by their own error, and ship it overnight, PartSelect chose to ship it 2nd day. All that good will generated by the excellent website completely evaporated by the failure to correctly complete the simple tasks that the business has needed to be good at since before computers were even invented. I will never use PartSelect again.

6. Prying the old coupler halves off of the motor and the washer took some effort, but was not overly difficult. I wound up removing the motor mounting plate in order to get better access to the half that was stuck on / needed to be attached to the drive train of the washing machine. Mounting plate was a breeze to remove and attach with a socket driver. I used one of those stubby flat-head screwdrivers to pry the old parts off. This was the one time where I thought it might have been easier to have the washing machine tilted up or on its back...but I muddled on through without even removing the bottom panel, and it wasn't too awkward. I used a large socket and a full-size hammer to not-so-gently tap the new parts into place. Putting all of the parts back together took a bit longer than it took to break them down, but it was easy. The instructions for putting the electronic control panel into test mode had been rolled up and taped to the cabinet inside the top panel. After I put the cabinet back on, I used those instructions to test all the cycles before fastening the top panel and testing the machine with an actual load. So far, so good...

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41 of 45 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Michael from Schuylkill Haen, PA

Washer would drain, agitate but not spin and was very noisy and would vibrate heavily

I first watched the youTube vidio on yhe PartSelect web site. After getting a visual of the repair, I decided to tackle the job with a better understanding and knew the repair was easy to purform. First I took the two screws out of the contrl panel on top of the washer, rolled the panel back to expose the clips that hold the metal cabinet to the back panel of the washer. After removing the cabinet I was ready to lay the washer on it's back and had a clear view of the pump, motor and clutch... I was able to easly identify these parts because I took time to watch the video. Using a flat head screwdriver I removed the clips that hold the pump to the motor... Without disconnecting the hoses connected to the pump I pushed the pump to the side and out of the way. This further exposed the motor. Using the flat head screwdriver, I removed the clips holding the motor to the transmission (they just snap off like they did on the pump). The motor was now ready to be removed from the transmission ( it just lifts off) before removing it I disconnected the power suply wire from the motor... Now the motor can be completely removed. I identified the drive couupler 1/2 was on the motor shaft the other 1/2 was on the transmission shaft.. On both halfs the splines were broken. I removed the old broken drive coupler. Since I already had the machine so far apart i figured i would replace the clutch also. Using a deep socket ratchet wit an extention I removed the agator... I then unbolted the transmission (only three bolts) I gentely pulled the transmission and shaft out of the bottom of the washer. This exposed the clutc assembly, I removed the clutc ( which wasn't bad or wore by the way) and replaced it.... I figured I had it and I was this far into the repair why not. After relpasingvthe clutch, I slid the shaft and transmission back into place tightened the bolts and that was done. I then slid/replaced the drive coupler... Placing one half on the motor shaft the other on the transmission shaft, placed the rubber bushing on the oneside of the plastic drive coupler. And mounted the motor back on the transmission utilizing the clips I took off earlier. Once the motor was in place I installed the waterpump fastened by the clips. Flipped yhe washer up, replaced the cabinet... Tightened down the the control panel and was ready to do some wash..: the washer runs perfect now and I saved myself about $700.00. It was allot easier than I thought it would be... Watching the youTube video is the secret to success. The washer is running like the day I bought it new... All for only 53.00. Hats off to everyone at PartsSelect for going above and beyond. Regards, ~ Michael

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73 of 164 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: Bob from East Palestine, OH

The motor turned with loud noise ,but nothing else worked

I used "Emley's Cheap and Easy Repair" book to remove,install and reassemble the machine.
A lot of time was used to clean the filthy tub and basket.
While replacing the broken motor coupling I decided to replace some of the seals.
PartSelect got the ordered parts to me in a couple of days.
I wouldn't hesitate to do the job again.

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29 of 34 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: Ted from SOUTH MILWAUKEE, WI

Washer would fill/empty but would not agitate nor spin

Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

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30 of 38 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Gilbert from Fair Lawn, NJ

Washer would not spin and the agitator would not turn

I basically dismantled the washer and turned the washer over to access the motor,transmission and pump.I disconnected the electrical connections first.I then released the clips for the pump and the clips for the transmission.The coupler was broken in little pieces.I went to Google to search for parts and happened to reach your Web Site.I found the part number for the coupler from the schematic and ordered it.It was then I discovered the part number for the cam dogs for the agitator so I ordered it also.While on you site I read the various troubleshooting stories and how each was repaired.I put myself through a lot of unnecessary work by dismantling the whole washer when all I had to do was turn it over and access it from the bottom.The parts arrived in three days and the install was rather simple thanks to the direction of your site.I had a heck of a time reassembling the washer but all in all $42.00 was a lot cheaper than a repairman or a new washer.We now have a working washer and no leaks.
Thanks to your site ,I have a happy wife and clean clothes.

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27 of 37 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Bryant from Jacksonville, FL

Leak from the front, bottom edge

First I watched the vid, from this website that showed how to replace a pump on the Whirlpool model I have. It was very helpful. Then, on the same web page as the vid for washer pump replacement several DIYers describe how they did the repair and rate how difficult it was. This also was very helpful. The info from these two sources confirmed to me that it was the pump that was leaking. Tilting the washer back far enough so I could see the pump also visually confirmed it was the pump.
If the pump had come off easily I would not have had to take the cabinet off. All I would have had to do was lay the washer on its' back to get the pump off. But noooo, the pump was rusted so tightly to the motors' shaft that I had to be more aggressive, to remove the pump, than the measures mentioned in the vid.
After finally getting the pump off I saw that the end of the motors' shaft had corroded and was misshapened enough so that I had to "persuade" the new pump onto the shaft.
I also ordered these parts (1. Direct Drive Coupling 2. Agitator Repair Kit and 3. Clutch Assembly) after I read in the DIYers descriptions that many of them, who changed their pump, also changed these parts. Since my washer was 15 yrs old it made sense to replace these parts which usually wear out before the pump.
Unfortunately, after I got everything reassembled the new pump leaked more than the old one. Guess I over-"persuaded" the new pump onto the shaft. That, and I don't think the new pump is as well built as the original so it couldn't take much persuasion.
Now I either: 1. buy a new pump and motor or 2. buy a new washer which is what I'll most likely do.
If I had a do-over I would only get the pump. If it worked properly with no leaks, then I would buy the other 3 parts, if it didn't work, I would only be out $40 instead of the $95 I'm out for the 4 items. Being frugal or, as my family says, "cheap," I do have to be careful. There is a point where repairing something old is more a point of pride than good sense. I don't know where that point is and I definitely wouldn't have brought this up if the new pump had fixed the washer.
Also, after struggling for quite some time to put the cabinet back on, I Googled "how do I get a Whirlpool washer cabinet back on?" After watching one of the vids Google answered back-I was able to put the cabinet back on in less than 10 minutes.
I hope this has been helpful. Happy DIYing!

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21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: ANTHONY from NY, NY

In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted

First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!

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22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Direct Drive Motor Coupling
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Roger from Palmyra, IN

Agitator was locked up

I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger

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1-15 of 242

Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS1485646
Manufacturer Part Number: 285753A
Brand Model Number Description
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