General Electric Dryer Hardware
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General Electric Dryer Lid Bumper
1) Remove all shelves and ice dispencer
2) Remove (x2 screws / a green wire that's clipped on) and the evap cover
3) Remove (x3 screws) cover motor/solenoid and unplug harness
3) Remove (x2 screws) icemaker and unplug harness
4) Remove/Loosen (x2 screws bottom / x2 screws top) Duct air freezer
5) Remove (x2 screws) Orifice evap fan and unplug harness
note: will need to remove right screw to get green ground wire off. And be careful on to damage the gasket.
6) Once Orifice out of refrig, disassemble.
7) Main thing to replace is the Motor DC Evap fan, and maybe CapDust, BumperLid, GrommetEvpFan.
8) now just go in reverse order...
That's it . . . wasn't too hard and NO MORE whining!!! Save at least a couple of hundred by not having a prof. come out and do it. Easy enough for most DIY person. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS284979
Manufacturer Part Number WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down or missing, and the sound could be a result of the motor scraping the side bracket. You will find it between the fan motor and the side bracket on the evaporator fan motor assembly. To access the bumper, you will need to remove the evaporator fan motor assembly from the freezer. This part is made of orange rubber and is less than half an inch in diameter. It has a rounded top and a slightly pointed bottom, and is sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Fridge too warm
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Darren from Renton, WA
Loud high pitch whining noise behind freezer
Ref. still worked but had this loud high pitch whining noise coming from inside freezer for a few months. It's probably a bad bearing or motor.1) Remove all shelves and ice dispencer
2) Remove (x2 screws / a green wire that's clipped on) and the evap cover
3) Remove (x3 screws) cover motor/solenoid and unplug harness
3) Remove (x2 screws) icemaker and unplug harness
4) Remove/Loosen (x2 screws bottom / x2 screws top) Duct air freezer
5) Remove (x2 screws) Orifice evap fan and unplug harness
note: will need to remove right screw to get green ground wire off. And be careful on to damage the gasket.
6) Once Orifice out of refrig, disassemble.
7) Main thing to replace is the Motor DC Evap fan, and maybe CapDust, BumperLid, GrommetEvpFan.
8) now just go in reverse order...
That's it . . . wasn't too hard and NO MORE whining!!! Save at least a couple of hundred by not having a prof. come out and do it. Easy enough for most DIY person. Read more...
General Electric Dryer SCREW
PartSelect Number PS3501388
Manufacturer Part Number WE2M302
Installation Instructions
Chris from WACO, TX
Reversing the dryer door.
Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.
Read more...
General Electric Dryer Hub Nut
PartSelect Number PS3501416
Manufacturer Part Number WH01X10618
This hub nut is a genuine OEM replacement part for your stackable washing machine. Removing the hub nut may require a spanner wrench, as per the manufacturer specifications. Replacing this part requires some disassembly of the agitator assembly. The nut should be turned clockwise to remove it.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Lee from GRANDVILLE, MI
Tub seal leaking, grinding noise on spin.
Purchased spanner wrench for tub nut wouldn’t budge, impacted off. Then spin tub took 2days to get loose, lots of WD40 , also heated up center area, used a small sledgehammer head to hit a socket on the large part of the shaft . Had to take out outer tub to replace seal and support bearing unit.
Read more...
General Electric Dryer Screw
PartSelect Number PS234226
Manufacturer Part Number WB1K5157
This screw is black in color and sold individually.
General Electric Dryer Screw
5 screws off the back
2 in the front - Husky screws in the front
panel clips - the top panel was opened.
1 more screw for starter switch
DONE - under 15 minutes. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS271689
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Mikhail from Framingham, MA
8 screws and done
After taking off:5 screws off the back
2 in the front - Husky screws in the front
panel clips - the top panel was opened.
1 more screw for starter switch
DONE - under 15 minutes. Read more...
General Electric Dryer Screw - 10-18 Hi/Lo hxw 1/2
PartSelect videos helped, watched several times until I felt comfortable. Pulled old icemaker first then removed assembly with anger motor, replaced motor per video and put assembly back in. Put new icemaker in and was done is a little over 30 minutes. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS1483095
Manufacturer Part Number WR01X10619
Sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Vicki from APOLLO BEACH, FL
Anger motor died about a year ago, ice maker just quit so replaced both
The auger motor died because two of the screws attaching it had come loose so the motor wasn't properly aligned. Wasn't sure from diagram which was the right screw so ordered two different ones from the parts diagram.PartSelect videos helped, watched several times until I felt comfortable. Pulled old icemaker first then removed assembly with anger motor, replaced motor per video and put assembly back in. Put new icemaker in and was done is a little over 30 minutes. Read more...
General Electric Dryer WASHER HUB
Order the washer hub, hub nut, and the spring washer above the hub nut.
Get the agitator out. a pair of flat bars and some hammering on the agitator retaining bolt helps a lot. Loosen the retaining nut a few turns, pry and hammer at the same time, repeat until he agitator comes out.
On the bottom of the tub assembly is a brown plastic bracket that holds the spin solenoid. Remove it before you dismount the tub assembly. It's easy to break, and it costs $65.
Dismount the tub assembly from the cabinet. Turn it over and remove the motor. Unbolt everything that can be unbolted. Cut away enough of the large metal plate that was bolted to the bottom of the tub so that the tub assembly will stand upright on a five gallon bucket.
Stand the tub assembly upright on the five gallon bucket. Cut away the hub nut. Try not to cut into the black steel disk on the bottom of the tub. Soak the metal parts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar. Slip a three foot long piece of 1 1/4 pipe or conduit over the stem that held the agitator. Hold the pipe upright. Drop a four foot long steel rod into the pipe. Use the steel rod as a slide hammer and whale away. Stop frequently to spray your penetrant, and keep hammering. Eventually you'll drive the old washer hub out of the drum. Remember, everything is plastic and not indestructible..
Before reassembly turn the tub over and clean up the mating surfaces, ditto the agitator. When reassembling use antisieze compound on the mating surfaces. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS3501415
Manufacturer Part Number WH01X10617
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
David from ABINGDON, IL
Tub seal leaking, hub nut stuck, tub stuck.
If you're handy with a right angle grinder and a cutoff wheel, it can be done.Order the washer hub, hub nut, and the spring washer above the hub nut.
Get the agitator out. a pair of flat bars and some hammering on the agitator retaining bolt helps a lot. Loosen the retaining nut a few turns, pry and hammer at the same time, repeat until he agitator comes out.
On the bottom of the tub assembly is a brown plastic bracket that holds the spin solenoid. Remove it before you dismount the tub assembly. It's easy to break, and it costs $65.
Dismount the tub assembly from the cabinet. Turn it over and remove the motor. Unbolt everything that can be unbolted. Cut away enough of the large metal plate that was bolted to the bottom of the tub so that the tub assembly will stand upright on a five gallon bucket.
Stand the tub assembly upright on the five gallon bucket. Cut away the hub nut. Try not to cut into the black steel disk on the bottom of the tub. Soak the metal parts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar. Slip a three foot long piece of 1 1/4 pipe or conduit over the stem that held the agitator. Hold the pipe upright. Drop a four foot long steel rod into the pipe. Use the steel rod as a slide hammer and whale away. Stop frequently to spray your penetrant, and keep hammering. Eventually you'll drive the old washer hub out of the drum. Remember, everything is plastic and not indestructible..
Before reassembly turn the tub over and clean up the mating surfaces, ditto the agitator. When reassembling use antisieze compound on the mating surfaces. Read more...
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