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Your Price
$47.29
  In Stock
Washing Machine Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(187)
PartSelect Number PS3579318
Manufacturer Part Number 4681EA2001T
The drain pump and motor assembly may also be known as the washer drain pump and is a part for your washer. The drain pump helps expel water from the washing machine. The drain pump is activated after the spin cycle speed is maintained for a specific period of time. To make this installation you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a pair of slip-joint pliers. Note that the pump casing is not included. This medium-difficulty repair may vary, but can generally be started by disconnecting power, then removing the top of the washer by taking out the four back screws and two small brackets. Then, remove the front panel by taking out the two screws and eight tabs that should be taken from the top. Moving down the front of the washer, remove the door, latch, tub gasket, and drain cover. Disconnect the drain hoses and clip from under the drain assembly, and install new assembly from there. Reassemble parts in direct reverse order -- taking photos during disassembly and keeping parts clearly organized can help here. Despite the number of steps, you will only need a standard Phillips screwdriver to complete this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Engine runs but does not pump water
  • Leaking
  • Noisy
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Jorge from Apple Valley, CA
Washing maching wouldn't drain
Removed the top of the washer by removing the 4 back screws and 2 small brackets. Then I removed the front panel, this was actually the hardest part, 2 screws and 8 tabs that you pop out carefully from the top of the panel. I only disconnected the power button and was able to rest the panel on top of the washer. The rest of the washer came apart quickly just moving down the front of the washer and removing the door, latch, tub gasket, drain cover. Removing the pump was just a mater of disconnecting the drain hoses, and one clip under the drain assembly. 3 screws attach the drain to assembly to the pump and only 2 wires that are clearly marked. Reassembly is just going back through in reverse order of disassenbly. The best thing about this is that it all comes apart with a standard phillips screwdriver. Read more...
Your Price
$21.82
  In Stock
Water Inlet Valve - Hot
★★★★★
★★★★★
(70)
PartSelect Number PS3527427
Manufacturer Part Number 5220FR2006H
The hot water inlet valve on your washing machine controls the water flow into the washer. This inlet valve has a standard hose fitting inlet and one water outlet. The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the washer may leak, fill slowly, or not fill at all. To test your valve, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then your inlet valve is defective. This part is approximately 3 inches long x 3 inches wide.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Khanh from CHICAGO, IL
Water continued to fill into the drum slowly after the load was done.
Watched a you tube video and followed the instructions. Even had my 11 and 13 yo old help and do most of the work. Very easy to fix both hot and cold inlet at the same time. Didn't know which one was causing the problem so I decided to replace both. Read more...
Your Price
$8.89
  In Stock
Magnetic Door Plunger
★★★★★
★★★★★
(50)
PartSelect Number PS3618292
Manufacturer Part Number AGM73610701
This magnetic door plunger, also known as the magnet holder, is built for your washer. When you order this part, you will receive the plastic housing and a spring that goes with it. The magnetic door plunger attaches to the inner door panel of the washer. It holds the door open when the washer is not running, and allows the door and tub seal to dry. This prevents mold and mildew from building up. Occasionally, the plastic tabs on the housing can break, and when this happens the part will need to be replaced. You may also notice that your washer lid or door will not close; this can also be a sign of a damaged magnetic door plunger.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Omnitech from Warrenville, IL
Door would not close
There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replace the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger Read more...
Your Price
$29.24
  In Stock
Rotor Position Sensor Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
PartSelect Number PS3529186
Manufacturer Part Number 6501KW2002A
This is a replacement sensor assembly for your washer. It may also be known as a motor rotor position sensor. The sensor assembly monitors the direction and speed of the spinning rotor and communicates this information to the electronic control board. If your washer pumps but will not spin or agitate, you may have a damaged sensor assembly. This part is sold individually, and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. Be sure to shut off the power to your washer before you begin this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Pumps but will not spin
  • Spins slowly
  • Will not agitate
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from Harrisburg, PA
LE Error Message and won't spin drum properly
I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming. Read more...
Your Price
$41.22
  In Stock
Shock Absorber Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect Number PS3522313
Manufacturer Part Number 383EER3001J
This kit includes 1 shock absorber and 2 pins.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Terry G from FORT WORTH, TX
Excessive vibration
I followed the video -- to take apart and reversed the steps to re-install. It was fairly straight forward and corrected the issue. Read more...
Your Price
$34.85
  In Stock
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
★★★★★
★★★★★
(13)
PartSelect Number PS3523345
Manufacturer Part Number 4738ER1002A
This is a tub-to-pump drain hose for a front load washer. The hose features flexible bellows which allow it to expand and contract when necessary. It carries the water from the tub of the washer to the drain pump so the used water can properly empty from the tub. This part is made of rubber, is black in color and measures 13 inches long. Be sure to drain the excess water from the washer before completing this repair. This is an authentic OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Leslie from STOWE, VT
leaking tub-to-pump drain hose
Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel. Read more...
Your Price
$48.55
  In Stock
Water Inlet Valve - Cold
★★★★★
★★★★★
(63)
PartSelect Number PS11728995
Manufacturer Part Number 5220FR2075L
The cold water inlet valve on your washing machine dispenses the cold water and bleach into the washer in the prewash cycle. This inlet valve has a standard hose fitting inlet and 2 water outlets facing 45 degrees to the left. The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the washer may leak, fill slowly, or not fill at all. To test your valve, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then your inlet valve is defective. This part is approximately 4 inches long x 3 inches wide.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
  • Leaking
  • Will not fill with water
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
John from Northport, NY
Inlet valve leak
Followed directions on the video and went like a charm. Very impressed with service and video Read more...
Your Price
$25.44
  In Stock
Rear Tub Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(15)
PartSelect Number PS3522855
Manufacturer Part Number 4036ER2004A
If you notice your washing machine is leaking water from the top of the transmission, it might be due to the gasket being damaged or worn down. When replacing your gasket, consider replacing your tub bearings at the same time. The gasket (or seal) is located at the back of the outer tub of your washing machine. To access this part you will need to pull the top off of the appliance by releasing the screws holding it in place. This part is sold individually, is black in color, and measures 3 inches in diameter.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
Todd from STOCKTON, KS
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order. Read more...
Your Price
$52.01
  In Stock
Door Lock Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(20)
PartSelect Number PS3533609
Manufacturer Part Number EBF49827801
The door lock assembly is a part for your washing machine and tells the washer that the door is closed and locked into place. If the switch has shorted out and not locking, it is no longer delivering the message to the machine and it will not latch into place. If you find that your door will not close, open, or start, it is more than likely an issue with the locker switch assembly. The switch is located behind the front panel. You will need to remove the gasket to reach the switch.
Fixes these symptoms
  • Lid or door will not open
  • Lid or door won’t close
  • Will Not Start
  • See more...
Installation Instructions
Aaron from SAN ANTONIO, TX
Door locking mechanism
I received the locking device. I received an email from parts select with a repair video link. I watch the video and repeated the steps. Very easy and educational. Thank you for simplifying something I have limited experience doing. Read more...
Your Price
$25.90
  In Stock
Washer Hose with Bellows
★★★★★
★★★★★
(6)
PartSelect Number PS3523347
Manufacturer Part Number 4738ER1004B
This washer hose with bellows, also known as a dispenser hose, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your washer. Replacing this part can be helpful if your washer is leaking. The dispenser hose connects the dispenser assembly to the tub. Before beginning the repair, unplug the washer and turn off the water supply. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver to complete this repair; a clamp tool can also be helpful. Remove the screws holding the lid of the washer in place, and take off the lid. Locate the dispenser hose and remove its clamps. Place the clamps on the new hose, using the arrows for a guide in positioning the clamps. Install the new hose and reassemble all other parts.
Fixes these symptoms
Installation Instructions
mark from AUBURN, CA
LG washing machine flooded the Landry room.
Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that. Read more...

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