LG Washer Parts
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Popular LG Washer Parts
Your Price
$53.05
Washing Machine Drain Pump
PartSelect Number PS3579318
Manufacturer Part Number 4681EA2001T
The drain pump and motor assembly may also be known as the washer drain pump and is a part for your washer. The drain pump helps expel water from the washing machine. The drain pump is activated after the spin cycle speed is maintained for a specific period of time. To make this installation you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a pair of slip-joint pliers. Note that the pump casing is not included. This medium-difficulty repair may vary, but can generally be started by disconnecting power, then removing the top of the washer by taking out the four back screws and two small brackets. Then, remove the front panel by taking out the two screws and eight tabs that should be taken from the top. Moving down the front of the washer, remove the door, latch, tub gasket, and drain cover. Disconnect the drain hoses and clip from under the drain assembly, and install new assembly from there. Reassemble parts in direct reverse order -- taking photos during disassembly and keeping parts clearly organized can help here. Despite the number of steps, you will only need a standard Phillips screwdriver to complete this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Engine runs but does not pump water
- Leaking
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Jorge from Apple Valley, CA
Washing maching wouldn't drain
Removed the top of the washer by removing the 4 back screws and 2 small brackets. Then I removed the front panel, this was actually the hardest part, 2 screws and 8 tabs that you pop out carefully from the top of the panel. I only disconnected the power button and was able to rest the panel on top of the washer. The rest of the washer came apart quickly just moving down the front of the washer and removing the door, latch, tub gasket, drain cover. Removing the pump was just a mater of disconnecting the drain hoses, and one clip under the drain assembly. 3 screws attach the drain to assembly to the pump and only 2 wires that are clearly marked. Reassembly is just going back through in reverse order of disassenbly. The best thing about this is that it all comes apart with a standard phillips screwdriver.
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Your Price
$22.03
Water Inlet Valve - Hot
PartSelect Number PS3527427
Manufacturer Part Number 5220FR2006H
The hot water inlet valve on your washing machine controls the water flow into the washer. This inlet valve has a standard hose fitting inlet and one water outlet. The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the washer may leak, fill slowly, or not fill at all. To test your valve, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then your inlet valve is defective. This part is approximately 3 inches long x 3 inches wide.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- No hot or cold water
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Khanh from CHICAGO, IL
Water continued to fill into the drum slowly after the load was done.
Watched a you tube video and followed the instructions. Even had my 11 and 13 yo old help and do most of the work. Very easy to fix both hot and cold inlet at the same time. Didn't know which one was causing the problem so I decided to replace both.
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Your Price
$28.82
Shock Absorber Kit
PartSelect Number PS3522313
Manufacturer Part Number 383EER3001J
This kit includes 1 shock absorber and 2 pins.
Installation Instructions
Terry G from FORT WORTH, TX
Excessive vibration
I followed the video -- to take apart and reversed the steps to re-install. It was fairly straight forward and corrected the issue.
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Your Price
$31.56
Rear Tub Gasket
PartSelect Number PS3522855
Manufacturer Part Number 4036ER2004A
If you notice your washing machine is leaking water from the top of the transmission, it might be due to the gasket being damaged or worn down. When replacing your gasket, consider replacing your tub bearings at the same time. The gasket (or seal) is located at the back of the outer tub of your washing machine. To access this part you will need to pull the top off of the appliance by releasing the screws holding it in place. This part is sold individually, is black in color, and measures 3 inches in diameter.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Todd from STOCKTON, KS
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
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Your Price
$24.24
Magnetic Door Plunger
PartSelect Number PS3618292
Manufacturer Part Number AGM73610701
This magnetic door plunger, also known as the magnet holder, is built for your washer. When you order this part, you will receive the plastic housing and a spring that goes with it. The magnetic door plunger attaches to the inner door panel of the washer. It holds the door open when the washer is not running, and allows the door and tub seal to dry. This prevents mold and mildew from building up. Occasionally, the plastic tabs on the housing can break, and when this happens the part will need to be replaced. You may also notice that your washer lid or door will not close; this can also be a sign of a damaged magnetic door plunger.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Lid or door won’t close
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Omnitech from Warrenville, IL
Door would not close
There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replace the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger
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Your Price
$63.01
Door Lock Assembly
PartSelect Number PS3533609
Manufacturer Part Number EBF49827801
The door lock assembly is a part for your washing machine and tells the washer that the door is closed and locked into place. If the switch has shorted out and not locking, it is no longer delivering the message to the machine and it will not latch into place. If you find that your door will not close, open, or start, it is more than likely an issue with the locker switch assembly. The switch is located behind the front panel. You will need to remove the gasket to reach the switch.
Fixes these symptoms
- Lid or door won’t close
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Aaron from SAN ANTONIO, TX
Door locking mechanism
I received the locking device. I received an email from parts select with a repair video link. I watch the video and repeated the steps. Very easy and educational. Thank you for simplifying something I have limited experience doing.
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Your Price
$59.57
Water Inlet Valve - Cold
PartSelect Number PS11728995
Manufacturer Part Number 5220FR2075L
The cold water inlet valve on your washing machine dispenses the cold water and bleach into the washer in the prewash cycle. This inlet valve has a standard hose fitting inlet and 2 water outlets facing 45 degrees to the left. The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the washer may leak, fill slowly, or not fill at all. To test your valve, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then your inlet valve is defective. This part is approximately 4 inches long x 3 inches wide.
Fixes these symptoms
- Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
- Leaking
- No hot or cold water
- See more...
Installation Instructions
John from Northport, NY
Inlet valve leak
Followed directions on the video and went like a charm. Very impressed with service and video
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Your Price
$36.86
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
PartSelect Number PS3523345
Manufacturer Part Number 4738ER1002A
This is a tub-to-pump drain hose for a front load washer. The hose features flexible bellows which allow it to expand and contract when necessary. It carries the water from the tub of the washer to the drain pump so the used water can properly empty from the tub. This part is made of rubber, is black in color and measures 13 inches long. Be sure to drain the excess water from the washer before completing this repair. This is an authentic OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Will not drain
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Leslie from STOWE, VT
leaking tub-to-pump drain hose
Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.
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Your Price
$31.64
Gasket
PartSelect Number PS3522859
Manufacturer Part Number 4036ER4001B
This is a seal for a washer tub. It creates a seal between the front and rear halves of the washer tub to prevent the appliance from leaking. If you notice leakage between the two sections of the tub, you may need to replace this part. Seals can get dry and brittle over time which compromises the integrity of the part and may cause your appliance to leak. This is a genuine replacement part sourced from the original manufacturer. You will need to disassemble the outer panels of the washer to access the tub seal.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Todd from STOCKTON, KS
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
Read more...
Your Price
$42.47
BEARING,BALL
PartSelect Number PS7785069
Manufacturer Part Number 4280EN4001C
The tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the back of the washing tub. If your washing machine will not spin, is leaking water, or if there is a loud screeching noise during the wash cycle, there could be an issue with the tub bearing. This genuine OEM replacement bearing has a 3-inch outer diameter, and is used to help the tub spin smoothly and to stop the washing machine from shaking during the cycle.
NOTE: This part is very difficult to install. The manufacturer recommends replacing the complete rear tub and bearing assembly at the same time.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Todd from STOCKTON, KS
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
Read more...
Appliance Type
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- LG Washer Motors
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Popular LG Washer Models
Below are the most popular LG Washer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- WM2016CW Residential WASHER
- WM2016CW WASHER
- WM2016CW WASHER
- WT1101CW WASHER
- WM2101HW Residential WASHER
- WM2301HR
- WT5001CW
- WT5001CW
- WM0642HW
- WM0642HW Lg Wm0642hw / Abweeus Washer
- WM0642HW Residential WASHER
- WM0642HW WASHER
- WT4801CW
- WM2077CW Lg Wm2077cw / Abweeus Washer
- WM2077CW Residential WASHER
- WM2077CW Lg Wm2077cw/00 Washer
- WM2077CW
- WM2455HW Residential Washer
- WM2455HW Residential WASHER
- WM2050CW
