Washer Hardware

Your Price

$5.75

In Stock

D-Shaped Knob Clip

★★★★★

(2)

PartSelect Number PS268493

Manufacturer Part Number WH01X10106

Sold individually.

Fixes these symptoms

Timer will not advance
Will Not Start
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Your Price

$5.51

In Stock

Agitator Bolt

★★★★★

(9)

PartSelect Number PS11741866

Manufacturer Part Number WP358237

This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
Noisy
Pumps but will not spin
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Installation Instructions

Dexter from Milwaukie, OR

Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose

After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom." I figured out from there which symptom the washer had and read what other people were saying and how they made the repairs. Basically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator. I focused on the loud noise first and decided I needed to replace the clutch/brake assemblies. I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video! After removing the console, back panel and cabinet then laying the machine on its back just as seen on the video, I had access to the water pump, motor, transmission and related clutch/brake parts. As it turned out I did not need the clutch/brake assembly but as a precaution and because the parts were cheap, I replaced the motor coupling, water pump and tub wear pads. I decided to replace the agitator assembly because of several worn parts associated with the dog ears/drive shaft ETC. I put the machine back upright and took off the top cap on the agitator, then there is an inner cap with seal that gives access to the 7/16" bolt you must remove to remove the agitator. However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring (has several clips around the outer tub), then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic. In this process I also noticed where my leaks (did I say Leaks) were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. and you should be good to go. Read more...

Your Price

$4.50

In Stock

Timer Knob Clip

★★★★★

(11)

PartSelect Number PS270835

Manufacturer Part Number WH1X2117

The timer knob clip on your washing machine connects the timer knob to the control panel. If your timer knob is damaged or will not stay in place, you may need to replace the clip. If the timer does not advance or the washing machine will not start, this may also be a symptom of a damaged timer knob clip. This part is clear plastic and is about 1 inch in size. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy, and the only tools you may require are a set of needle-nose pliers. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Fixes these symptoms

Timer will not advance
Touchpad does not respond
Will Not Start
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Installation Instructions

Mr Dennis from Twinsburg, OH

Knob would not engage, had to manually turn outer ring to start washer.

Used a screw driver and needle nose pliers to remove clip from behind the timer knob. Took 2 minutes to remove clip, i admit it was a little tricky but once you get a grip on the clip very easily removed. Replaced with new knob, old knob gear was completley stripped . put the new clip on and presto, Like brand new.A normal service call would of ran me 45.00 just to tell me what was wrong with the machine. Read more...

Your Price

$5.67

In Stock

Thrust Washer

★★★★★

(2)

PartSelect Number PS11740482

Manufacturer Part Number WP233520

This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found on dryers around the drum support rollers and idler pulleys, and helps prevent the rollers and pulleys from bumping up against the brackets they are installed on. Your thrust washer could be defective if you notice your dryer wont tumble, rotate, or turn; or there is a load squealing or whining noise when the dryer tumbles. The repair is a relatively easy job. You will require a putty knife, 5/16 inch nut driver, and E-Ring pliers. Remember to disconnect the power to your dryer before you begin the repair.

Fixes these symptoms

Burning smell
Noisy
Pumps but will not spin
See more...

Installation Instructions

Chris from Hopedale, MA

Drum not centered , clothes getting stuck in dryer

The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it. Read more...

Your Price

$5.25

In Stock

Tub Bearing Washer

PartSelect Number PS271509

Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1197

This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
Noisy
Pumps but will not spin
See more...

Installation Instructions

Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL

Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up

I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.

I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.

The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.

The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.

I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.

I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.

The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...

Your Price

$16.19

In Stock

Hub Nut

★★★★★

(4)

PartSelect Number PS271505

Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1193

This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. You will need a hub nut wrench and some WD40 to loosen the nut and remove it from the agitator shaft.

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
Noisy
Pumps but will not spin
See more...

Installation Instructions

Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL

Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up

I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.

I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.

The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.

The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.

I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.

I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.

The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...

Your Price

$9.13

Special Order

Screw-In Plastic Leveling Leg

★★★★★

(3)

PartSelect Number PS1152204

Manufacturer Part Number 134548800

This is a screw in leveling leg for your washing machine. It supports the appliance by screwing in place to create a stable and flat surface. Take note that you are able to adjust the height of your appliance to make it leveled. This model is made entirely of plastic and is white in color. It is just under 2.5 inches long, 1.5 inches wide, and the head has a diameter of roughly 1.5 inches.

Installation Instructions

Sandra from Denton, TX

Stopped agitating versus level washer feet/leg

My washing machine stopped agitating and spinning and I couldn't afford a repair man...plus I wanted to exhaust any obvious problems first. One of the leveler feet had broken years ago. Since I luckily had determined via reading other posts that the agitator won't work if the cycle safety switch is not functioning right, I thought the safety switch might need to be changed but after careful thought, I decided to order a new levelling leg first because maybe the broken levelling leg was shaking the safety switch so it wasn't connecting right. Once I received the leg overnight, I flipped the washer on its side and had to drill out the old leg. It was a little tricky because of how it broke, but the drill worked. I flipped the washer back up, leveled it with the new foot, and the agitator was miraculously working again...just like new. I didn't need the safety switch. Thanks to partselect.com for having the details of my washer parts to study up on and get me the right part so quickly. I saved myself alot of money. Read more...

Your Price

$5.25

In Stock

Drain Hose Clip

★★★★★

(3)

PartSelect Number PS270508

Manufacturer Part Number WH16X513

This drain hose support clip is a piece for your washer. The purpose of the drain hose support clip is to hold the drain hose in place by attaching to a cabinet. This piece is off-white and is roughly 3.5 inches long, almost 2.5 inches wide, and less than half an inch thick. To install this piece onto your washing machine you will need a quarter-inch nut driver. Before starting this repair, make sure to disconnect the power source to your washer, as well as the inlet fill hoses.

Fixes these symptoms

Leaking
See more...

Installation Instructions

Anthonie from Beale AFB, CA

Old Hose Had A Leak

First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless. Read more...

Your Price

$11.66

In Stock

Screw

PartSelect Number PS417463

Manufacturer Part Number 131302800

This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. The main reason you would replace this screw is if the old screw is missing or damaged. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.

Installation Instructions

Edward from Baltimore, MD

Drying too slowly

Removed access plate from back bottom left
Removed belt from motor
Needed to lift up top of dryer
Inserted flathead screwdirver in front under top to push in two metal clips holding top down
Lifted up top of dryer
Removed 2 screws holding on front of dryer
Removed front of dryer
Broke Door Switch removing front of dryer. I should have depressed the metal sides in and pulled switch through hole.
Instead, I tried to remove the leads. This broke the fragile prongs.
Started dryer (with belt removed so drum doesn't spin)
Verified ignightor came on every heating cycle
Gas turned on properly
Gas turned off after 90 seconds
Gas never came back on
Indicitive of bad coils
New coils solved the problem
Replaced door switch and lint trap cover in the process. Read more...

Your Price

$31.74

In Stock

Drive Belt - 6 ribs

★★★★★

(2)

PartSelect Number PS419285

Manufacturer Part Number 134051000

This is a drive belt for your washing machine. This part spins the basket in your appliance by connecting the drive motor to the drive system. You will need to replace the drive belt if your pumps are not spinning, your washer is not agitating, or you are noticing excess noise and/or a burning smell. This belt is black with six ribbings. To replace this part, you will need a Phillips screwdriver.

Fixes these symptoms

Burning smell
Noisy
Pumps but will not spin
See more...

Installation Instructions

Carmen from Foreston, MN

motor burned out, tub quit going around

First I turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. I took off the back panel and unscrewed the 4 bolts holding the motor in place. The grounding screw was impossible to remove, so I had to cut the wire off. Took out motor and disconnected the electrical connector. Put new motor in (ordered new belt, figuring it would need replacing - was still in excellent shape, but replaced it anyway), bolted in the motor (socket set works best on further away bolts, screwdriver for closer ones). Put the belt on the motor first and then pulled it up over the side of the tub and turned the tub to get it around the whole tub - took alittle bit of turning to get it on. Plugged in electrical connector and screwed grounding wire into hole. Replaced back panel and water hoses. Got a bit dirty and sweaty but not too hard to do it yourself, as I am a 48 yr woman and don't usually do this kind of thing. Read more...

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