Washer Hardware
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Popular Washer Hardware
Your Price
$6.89
Agitator Bolt
PartSelect Number PS11741866
Manufacturer Part Number WP358237
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Dexter from Milwaukie, OR
Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose
After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom." I figured out from there which symptom the washer had and read what other people were saying and how they made the repairs. Basically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator. I focused on the loud noise first and decided I needed to replace the clutch/brake assemblies. I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video! After removing the console, back panel and cabinet then laying the machine on its back just as seen on the video, I had access to the water pump, motor, transmission and related clutch/brake parts. As it turned out I did not need the clutch/brake assembly but as a precaution and because the parts were cheap, I replaced the motor coupling, water pump and tub wear pads. I decided to replace the agitator assembly because of several worn parts associated with the dog ears/drive shaft ETC. I put the machine back upright and took off the top cap on the agitator, then there is an inner cap with seal that gives access to the 7/16" bolt you must remove to remove the agitator. However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring (has several clips around the outer tub), then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic. In this process I also noticed where my leaks (did I say Leaks) were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. and you should be good to go.
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Your Price
$7.19
D-Shaped Knob Clip
PartSelect Number PS268493
Manufacturer Part Number WH01X10106
Sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Timer will not advance
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Your Price
$6.24
Timer Knob Clip
PartSelect Number PS270835
Manufacturer Part Number WH1X2117
The timer knob clip on your washing machine connects the timer knob to the control panel. If your timer knob is damaged or will not stay in place, you may need to replace the clip. If the timer does not advance or the washing machine will not start, this may also be a symptom of a damaged timer knob clip. This part is clear plastic and is about 1 inch in size. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy, and the only tools you may require are a set of needle-nose pliers. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Timer will not advance
- Touchpad does not respond
- Will Not Start
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mr Dennis from Twinsburg, OH
Knob would not engage, had to manually turn outer ring to start washer.
Used a screw driver and needle nose pliers to remove clip from behind the timer knob. Took 2 minutes to remove clip, i admit it was a little tricky but once you get a grip on the clip very easily removed. Replaced with new knob, old knob gear was completley stripped . put the new clip on and presto, Like brand new.A normal service call would of ran me 45.00 just to tell me what was wrong with the machine.
Read more...
Your Price
$6.56
Tub Bearing Washer
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS271509
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008. I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
Your Price
$7.09
Cover Screw
In this spirit of any repair, I replaced them, and it was not the issue. I don't know what I expected.
Ceiling. YouTube. Pacing.
Then I figured it was this part - the motor coupling. I unplugged the machine and took out the drain tube. I leaned the machine back and propped it up with an empty detergent bottle, because those were abundant. Ratchet off a few bolts and the motor comes out. The coupling was indeed broken. The new one slips right in - I tapped it a few times with a mallet for good measure / vengeance. Ratcheted the bolts back on and tipped it back up.
Pros: Washer works now.
Cons: Everest-esque laundry pile to address.
But hey, it worked! I am no handyman and it wasn't too bad at all. Half hour tops. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740701
Manufacturer Part Number WP308685
Sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Peter from WRENTHAM, MA
Kenmore 80 Series Washer - Agitator Stopped Working
First I screamed at the ceiling, because I have a three year old and an infant, and the washing machine was dead. Then I went to youtube. It seemed like the "agitator dogs" were the issue. In this spirit of any repair, I replaced them, and it was not the issue. I don't know what I expected.
Ceiling. YouTube. Pacing.
Then I figured it was this part - the motor coupling. I unplugged the machine and took out the drain tube. I leaned the machine back and propped it up with an empty detergent bottle, because those were abundant. Ratchet off a few bolts and the motor comes out. The coupling was indeed broken. The new one slips right in - I tapped it a few times with a mallet for good measure / vengeance. Ratcheted the bolts back on and tipped it back up.
Pros: Washer works now.
Cons: Everest-esque laundry pile to address.
But hey, it worked! I am no handyman and it wasn't too bad at all. Half hour tops. Read more...
Your Price
$15.73
Hub Nut
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS271505
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1193
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. You will need a hub nut wrench and some WD40 to loosen the nut and remove it from the agitator shaft.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008. I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
Your Price
$6.56
Drain Hose Clip
PartSelect Number PS270508
Manufacturer Part Number WH16X513
This drain hose support clip is a piece for your washer. The purpose of the drain hose support clip is to hold the drain hose in place by attaching to a cabinet. This piece is off-white and is roughly 3.5 inches long, almost 2.5 inches wide, and less than half an inch thick. To install this piece onto your washing machine you will need a quarter-inch nut driver. Before starting this repair, make sure to disconnect the power source to your washer, as well as the inlet fill hoses.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Anthonie from Beale AFB, CA
Old Hose Had A Leak
First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.
Read more...
Your Price
$33.59
Spring-Held Bellow Clamp
PartSelect Number PS1146211
Manufacturer Part Number 134527100
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Robert from Schenectady, NY
Leak in the big hose connecting the pump to the washer
The top, control panel and front and back of the machine are removed - all by just removing simple sheet-metal screws. NOTE: remove the soap drawer, because there are two longer screws behind the drawer front. When replacing these later, get them just snug because "tight" will crush the supporting plastic. Don't bother to unplug all the wires to the control panel - just tape it to the top of the machine so it doesn't fall. The rubber part to be replaced is held to the machine by three large spring-held bellows clamps. Squeeze the ends with a pair of pliers and slide them off the tubing. When putting the new part on, I found that the cramped space and difficult access made getting two of the spring-held bellows clamps impossible to get back on, so I used automotive-style stainless hose clamps, which screw tight from the side. Be cautious to get them very snug but not super tight because, you can crush the plastic tubing to which you are fastening. Reassembly of the panels on the machine is the reverse.
Read more...
Your Price
$14.58
Screw
Removed belt from motor
Needed to lift up top of dryer
Inserted flathead screwdirver in front under top to push in two metal clips holding top down
Lifted up top of dryer
Removed 2 screws holding on front of dryer
Removed front of dryer
Broke Door Switch removing front of dryer. I should have depressed the metal sides in and pulled switch through hole.
Instead, I tried to remove the leads. This broke the fragile prongs.
Started dryer (with belt removed so drum doesn't spin)
Verified ignightor came on every heating cycle
Gas turned on properly
Gas turned off after 90 seconds
Gas never came back on
Indicitive of bad coils
New coils solved the problem
Replaced door switch and lint trap cover in the process. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS417463
Manufacturer Part Number 131302800
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. The main reason you would replace this screw is if the old screw is missing or damaged. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Installation Instructions
Edward from Baltimore, MD
Drying too slowly
Removed access plate from back bottom leftRemoved belt from motor
Needed to lift up top of dryer
Inserted flathead screwdirver in front under top to push in two metal clips holding top down
Lifted up top of dryer
Removed 2 screws holding on front of dryer
Removed front of dryer
Broke Door Switch removing front of dryer. I should have depressed the metal sides in and pulled switch through hole.
Instead, I tried to remove the leads. This broke the fragile prongs.
Started dryer (with belt removed so drum doesn't spin)
Verified ignightor came on every heating cycle
Gas turned on properly
Gas turned off after 90 seconds
Gas never came back on
Indicitive of bad coils
New coils solved the problem
Replaced door switch and lint trap cover in the process. Read more...
Your Price
$6.24
Hub Washer
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS271511
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1199
This is a replacement hub washer for your washing machine. If your washer is noisy, leaking, shaking, or pumping without spinning, you may need to replace the hub washer. The hub washer is found under the washer tub, beneath the split ring. You will need to remove the tub to access it. Before doing so you should disconnect the power and water sources from washer. The washer is made of metal and is a little more than an inch in diameter. It is sold individually, and is an OEM part.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Pumps but will not spin
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008. I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
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