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Whirlpool Washer Hardware
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If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pulley shaft, or on the rear drum roller shaft. In either case, you will need to remove the front panel of the dryer and the drum to access the part for repair. Once you have accessed the damaged tri ring, you will simply need to slip it off and replace it with the new one. This part is sold individually. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
John from Tucson, AZ
worn out part
The repair was fairly easy. The most timely part of the repair was removing the twelve screws from the back panel to expose the repair.
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
Installation Instructions
Dexter from Milwaukie, OR
Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose
After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom." I figured out from there which symptom the washer had and read what other people were saying and how they made the repairs. Ba
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sically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator. I focused on the loud noise first and decided I needed to replace the clutch/brake assemblies. I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video! After removing the console, back panel and cabinet then laying the machine on its back just as seen on the video, I had access to the water pump, motor, transmission and related clutch/brake parts. As it turned out I did not need the clutch/brake assembly but as a precaution and because the parts were cheap, I replaced the motor coupling, water pump and tub wear pads. I decided to replace the agitator assembly because of several worn parts associated with the dog ears/drive shaft ETC. I put the machine back upright and took off the top cap on the agitator, then there is an inner cap with seal that gives access to the 7/16" bolt you must remove to remove the agitator. However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring (has several clips around the outer tub), then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic. In this process I also noticed where my leaks (did I say Leaks) were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. and you should be good to go.
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Installation Instructions
Thomas from MILLBURY, OH
Worn out splines connecting transmission driveshaft to agitator.
DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an
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accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.
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This part is the replacement single front panel clip for your dryer. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches long and ¾ inch wide. The front panel retainer clip is what holds the front panel on to the dryer. If the clip is damaged or missing, or if the front panel appears loose, you may need to replace the clip. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part.
This part is the replacement single front panel clip for your dryer. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches long and ¾ inch wide. The front panel retainer clip is what holds the front panel on to the dryer. If the clip is damaged or missing, or if the front panel appears loose, you may need to replace the clip. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part.
Installation Instructions
Sean from BAR NUNN, WY
Belt was slipping, and having a hard time spinning the drum
First off, start by turning of the breaker to the dryer and confirming the power has been turned off. Next, remove the lint screen and two screws holding the lint screen housing to the lid. Remove the two side moldings on the control panel and the two screws holding doun the enclosure. Slide the control enclosure forward and lift up . Ta
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ke a picture of the wiring for later reference and carefully unplug the wires and set the enclosure aside. Next, remove the two screws holding the rear lid retaining clips. Gently pry up on the front of the lid to realese hold doun clips, swing the lid up and remove it from the rear clips, set the lid aside. Remove the two screws on corners of front cover located near the top, unplug the door switch. Remove the front cover by lifting straight up, set aside. Now remove the belt from the motor by realeasing the tensioner and remove it from the drum. You can now remove the drum through the front. Now is a good time to check the condition of your drum rollers, clean them as needed or replace them. Clean the roller shafts and apply a quality grease. "Clean the roller groove on the drum" this is what makes the drum sound bumpy! Remove the rear seal and replace it as per the instructions that come with the seal. The glue dries quickly, so have the seal fully in place and apply glue to small areas replacing the seal fully before moving on. You can now reinstall the drum being careful not to damage the seal. Place the drum on the rollers, reach inside and work the seal into place. You can now replace the belt and work in reverse with the casings! It took me longer to type these instructions than it did to make this repair! Enjoy your like new machine!
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This is an OEM boot seal retaining ring for various models of front-load washing machines. This retaining ring is used to clamp down and secure the inner boot, also known as a seal or gasket, of your washing machine. Over time and with extended use, this retaining ring may break or become worn out, and need replacing. This ring measures features a diameter of approximately 16.3 inches and is made of metal. Because this ring is highly compressed, you will need a set of pliers to secure it around the boot seal of your washing machine. This retaining ring is sold individually, so it does not come with any other parts.
This is an OEM boot seal retaining ring for various models of front-load washing machines. This retaining ring is used to clamp down and secure the inner boot, also known as a seal or gasket, of your washing machine. Over time and with extended use, this retaining ring may break or become worn out, and need replacing. This ring measures features a diameter of approximately 16.3 inches and is made of metal. Because this ring is highly compressed, you will need a set of pliers to secure it around the boot seal of your washing machine. This retaining ring is sold individually, so it does not come with any other parts.
Installation Instructions
Terry from JUPITER, FL
It took two of us to hold the ring and slide it on around the opening with the assistance of screwdrivers the spring was very tight
Two people to screwdrivers, stretching the spring out and around and that’s the last part to go on
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This screw is sold individually.
This screw is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Michelle from Gilbert, AZ
Bought Used needed Top Mount Screws and Filters
Awesome! Everything fit and worked! Thanks!
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
Installation Instructions
Patrick from Marysville, WA
The upper agitator arm would not rotate
It was extremely easy. I removed the plastic cap under the softener dispenser, removed the nut and washer that holds the upper agitator in place and then replaced the parts that came in the kit. The most important note for those who may be doing this job is that the o-ring for the cap under the softener dispenser, the seal washer for th
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e bolt and the thrust spacer under the upper agitator all came with the kit. I did not realize that and ordered them all seperately.
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Sold individually.
Sold individually.
Installation Instructions
David from EAST AMHERST, NY
washer not agitating
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get
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the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again.
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The door boot spring clamp holds the door boot in place.
The door boot spring clamp holds the door boot in place.
Installation Instructions
William from JONES, OK
Replaced a worn out door bellows
I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.
This is a replacement suspension spring retainer for your washer. The retainer holds the suspension spring in place while the washer is operating. If you notice movement, or an unusual noise or shaking of your washer when it is in use, it could mean that the suspension spring has been disconnected because of a broken or missing spring retainer. You will find the suspension spring retainer at the bottom of the tub assembly. To replace the retainer, use a pair of pliers to disconnect the suspension spring from the chassis mount to relieve the tension. Then, remove the spring from the retaining clip, and remove the retaining clip from the bottom of the washer. Attach the new retaining clip to the bottom of the washer, reattach the spring, and stretch it slightly so it can connect to the chassis. This part is sold individually.
This is a replacement suspension spring retainer for your washer. The retainer holds the suspension spring in place while the washer is operating. If you notice movement, or an unusual noise or shaking of your washer when it is in use, it could mean that the suspension spring has been disconnected because of a broken or missing spring retainer. You will find the suspension spring retainer at the bottom of the tub assembly. To replace the retainer, use a pair of pliers to disconnect the suspension spring from the chassis mount to relieve the tension. Then, remove the spring from the retaining clip, and remove the retaining clip from the bottom of the washer. Attach the new retaining clip to the bottom of the washer, reattach the spring, and stretch it slightly so it can connect to the chassis. This part is sold individually.
Installation Instructions
RUSSELL from SOUTHOLD, NY
machine was out of balance
Removed the washing machine from the wall and found a broken spring on the floor. Began disassembling the unit before accessing your sight. (Later I viewed your video of the more simple dis assembly).Used your parts breakdown to identify the 6 parts I needed (3 springs and 3 retainers),and ordered them. They arrived on time and as per the
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video, installed them with ease and reassembled the unit. My wife is very happy. Thank you, Rusty
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