Whirlpool Washer Timers
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I then removed the drain hose from the wall drain to allow me to turn the washer to gain access to the the back panel.
From the front, I then removed the plastic timer knob from the timer by unscrewing it. Then I pulled the plastic plate with the arrow on it to re ... Read more move it. This exposed the screws that attached the timer to the control panel. I left them attached.
I then removed the two screws on the bottom of the front of the control panel (on each end) that attach the control panel to the washer.
I then went to the rear of the washer and removed the two screws on the top of the rear of the control panel.
I went back to the front and pulled the control panel forward and up to release it from the washer.
I then removed the two screws (that were under the plastic plate) that attached the timer to the panel and removed the timer from the panel.
Then I unplugged the wiring harness from the timer and removed the timer completely.
From there I reversed the procedure to install the new timer and knob.
I purchased the replacement (repl.) Door Lock and ACU from PartSelect. NOTE: The repl. ACU is a newer model and _MOST ALL_ connections are relocated. The Wiring Harness may require a simple modification or replacement. Recommend taking photos of the original cable routing _before_ relocating the ACU to enable connector access. NOTE: All original and repl. ACU connector locations are labeled. Recommend labeling each mating wiring connector.
My washer's original ACU Door Lock DSS connector has a PCB 3-terminal connection. The repl. ACU is labeled "DSS" at _TWO_ locations, but the ACU's DSS _PCB tab_ location has _NO_ terminals on either side of the PCB - useless, but nonetheless labeled. The other DSS location has a female connector with 3 male spade terminals. My original Wiring Harness has only a female 3-terminal PCB connector. The connector is labeled 1-2-3. I labeled the three black wires with corresponding 1, 2, and 3 painted dots. I then cutoff the now useless PCB connector and installed three non-insulated* female spade connectors, crimped, and labeled them "1"-"2"-"3" to match the wire dots. *(The insulation prevents insertion into the repl. ASU's connector. Insulated crimping ends physically separate the three terminals.) Having built 3 PC workstations, I had temporarily and carefully removed the repl. ACU motherboard from its housing. The repl. ACU's motherboard DSS jack is labelled "3" at one end, confirming the labeling of the three female spade connectors. TIP: Connect the Door Lock to the Wiring Harness and measure door closed 60-90 O between ACU J43-1 & J43-2 to confirm valid connection.
Finally, i) Re-attach all wiring connectors to the locations as labeled on the repl. ACU. ii) Perform the CS Test to confirm system function. iii) Manage the Wiring Harness - either original or PartSelect Special Order Wiring Harness after =15 day + shipping delay and expense. NOTE: PartSelect was unable to verify that _EXCEPT_ for the DSS wiring connector, _ALL_ of the Special Order Wiring Harness wiring connectors are _IDENTICAL_ to those of my original Wiring Harness! I was unwilling to further delay the repair =3 weeks by ordering the Special Order Wiring Harness to visually inspect it. Use of standard, inexpensive female spade connectors is fully functional, safe, and economical. It's simply unsuitable for mass production processes.There was _NO_ assurance that Whirlpool would have provided to PartSelect either the identical, original Wiring Harness or one that specifically mates with the repl. ACU. I chose not to expend the time and expense necessary to risk discovery of an unwanted duplicate original Wiring Harness. iv) Complete washer re-assembly. v) Repeat CS Test to confirm system functionality. vi) Celebrate!
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