Kenmore Washer Hardware
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Popular Kenmore Washer Hardware
Your Price
$7.04
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Agitator Bolt
PartSelect Number PS11741866
Manufacturer Part Number WP358237
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Marks left on clothes
- Spins slowly
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Dexter from Milwaukie, OR
Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose
After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom." I figured out from there which symptom the washer had and read what other people were saying and how they made the repairs. Basically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator. I focused on the loud noise first and decided I needed to replace the clutch/brake assemblies. I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video! After removing the console, back panel and cabinet then laying the machine on its back just as seen on the video, I had access to the water pump, motor, transmission and related clutch/brake parts. As it turned out I did not need the clutch/brake assembly but as a precaution and because the parts were cheap, I replaced the motor coupling, water pump and tub wear pads. I decided to replace the agitator assembly because of several worn parts associated with the dog ears/drive shaft ETC. I put the machine back upright and took off the top cap on the agitator, then there is an inner cap with seal that gives access to the 7/16" bolt you must remove to remove the agitator. However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring (has several clips around the outer tub), then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic. In this process I also noticed where my leaks (did I say Leaks) were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. and you should be good to go.
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Your Price
$16.46
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Single Front Panel Cip
PartSelect Number PS11731288
Manufacturer Part Number W10854425
This part is the replacement single front panel clip for your dryer. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches long and ¾ inch wide. The front panel retainer clip is what holds the front panel on to the dryer. If the clip is damaged or missing, or if the front panel appears loose, you may need to replace the clip. This part is sold individually and is an authentic OEM part.
Fixes these symptoms
- Noisy
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Sean from BAR NUNN, WY
Belt was slipping, and having a hard time spinning the drum
First off, start by turning of the breaker to the dryer and confirming the power has been turned off. Next, remove the lint screen and two screws holding the lint screen housing to the lid. Remove the two side moldings on the control panel and the two screws holding doun the enclosure. Slide the control enclosure forward and lift up . Take a picture of the wiring for later reference and carefully unplug the wires and set the enclosure aside. Next, remove the two screws holding the rear lid retaining clips. Gently pry up on the front of the lid to realese hold doun clips, swing the lid up and remove it from the rear clips, set the lid aside. Remove the two screws on corners of front cover located near the top, unplug the door switch. Remove the front cover by lifting straight up, set aside. Now remove the belt from the motor by realeasing the tensioner and remove it from the drum. You can now remove the drum through the front. Now is a good time to check the condition of your drum rollers, clean them as needed or replace them. Clean the roller shafts and apply a quality grease. "Clean the roller groove on the drum" this is what makes the drum sound bumpy! Remove the rear seal and replace it as per the instructions that come with the seal. The glue dries quickly, so have the seal fully in place and apply glue to small areas replacing the seal fully before moving on. You can now reinstall the drum being careful not to damage the seal. Place the drum on the rollers, reach inside and work the seal into place. You can now replace the belt and work in reverse with the casings! It took me longer to type these instructions than it did to make this repair! Enjoy your like new machine!
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Your Price
$7.95
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Screw, 8-16 x 1.000
PartSelect Number PS11746167
Manufacturer Part Number WP8533953
Sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Bruce from GLOBE, AZ
Stripped screws on a hub drive replacement
Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.
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Your Price
$7.95
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Thrust
PartSelect Number PS11740482
Manufacturer Part Number WP233520
This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found on dryers around the drum support rollers and idler pulleys, and helps prevent the rollers and pulleys from bumping up against the brackets they are installed on. Your thrust washer could be defective if you notice your dryer wont tumble, rotate, or turn; or there is a load squealing or whining noise when the dryer tumbles. The repair is a relatively easy job. You will require a putty knife, 5/16 inch nut driver, and E-Ring pliers. Remember to disconnect the power to your dryer before you begin the repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Spins slowly
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Chris from Hopedale, MA
Drum not centered , clothes getting stuck in dryer
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.
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Your Price
$7.95
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Cover Screw
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740701
Manufacturer Part Number WP308685
Sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Curtis from PALM BAY, FL
Relocating dishwasher into the new kitchen layout
In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully. Read more...
Your Price
$7.51
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Washplate Bolt
I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS10067065
Manufacturer Part Number W10772621
Sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
David from EAST AMHERST, NY
washer not agitating
This was a learning experience but it appears to have worked out in the end. Our 3 1/2 year old washer was not agitating much and I attributed that to a loose bolt. I would tighten the bolt and it would work ok for a load or two and then stop agitating. I would find that the bolt was loose again. I took a number of steps to try to get the bolt to stay on tight - threadlock, a new bolt, more threadlock, and applying progressively more force on the bolt, with no better results. Yet the repair guys on you tube were saying the bolt only needs to be snug, not super tight - something was amiss. I even went so far as to secure the basket with a rope so I could use two hands on the socket wrench (please don't do this). But when I tried the washer again there was no agitation at all! I observed the agitation output in manual test mode and the bolt was turning in lock step with the shaft but the agitator wasn't turning at all. That's when I suspected that the problem was actually a worn lower agitator. Trouble was that now I couldn't seem to get the bolt off. Turning the wrench caused the shaft itself to rotate so I couldn't loosen the bolt from the shaft. I thought I broke the washer. Then I considered that maybe the shaft was rotating because the washer was in an agitation mode when I turned it off. I went back into manual test mode, made the washer spin, then turned it off. Fortunately, this worked. The shaft was again stationary and, albeit with great difficulty, I got the bolt off.I removed the agitator, and as a pro would have figured out long before, the ridges inside the top of the lower agitator were almost completely worn down. I realized then that the contact between these ridges and the splines on the shaft is what is supposed to cause the lower agitator to move with the shaft. The purpose of the bolt is just to keep the agitator in the correct position and from coming off the shaft. I had been trying to compensate for the worn agitator ridges by over-tightening the bolt, creating some contact at the top of the shaft. This would work for a little while, then the agitator would start slipping, and the slipping agitator was acting just like a wrench loosening the bolt (until my stupid rope trick, that is.)
So I ordered a new agitator (only the lower agitator was bad, but the price of an entire agitator isn't a lot more than just the lower part and I was reading that the upper agitator parts will wear over time) and another new bolt (because my repeated attempts to over-tighten the first one I ordered had split the rubber gasket apart and worn the bolt head).
The new agitator fit snugly on the splines of the shaft so I sensed no need to use excessive force on the bolt. Just an easy one-handed snug tightening with the socket wrench, using the other hand to hold the lower agitator. The washer is now working again. Read more...
Your Price
$47.69
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Single Spring with Insulators
Remove water connections
Pull out washer to have sufficient room to access the back and the top.
Removed the top panel (4 screws at top- back)
Removed the back panel (a lot of screws)
Removed small metal retainer strip on top edge over broken spring
Removed broken spring, hung top of new one.
Pulled up tub to as I stretched out the spring to mount spring to tub
From the back, unplug and remove 2 crews holding the electronic motor control unit from lower left
For both shocks:
This was the most "difficult" part - locate the 2 plastic retainer pins holding the shock, locate the tooth (or tab) holding the pin in place and push the tab in (I had to use some leverage - its stiff plastic covered in grease - a spare screwdriver handle helps to push the tab down).
After pins are removed, shock just pulls out (weight of the tub handled by the suspension springs).
Replace with new shocks (1 pack has a pair), replace pins.
Reinstall motor control unit.
Reassemble frame. reattach water supply lines.
I had to plug in the washer, activate a cycle, then unplug/plug in the washer again.
It helps to have a screwdriver attachment for a variable speed drill to handle all of the screws.
All told - about 45 minutes, most of this spent on removing the pins. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS735645
Manufacturer Part Number 134144700
This is a single spring with insulator, but you may also know it as a suspension spring. It is a part for your washing machine. If your tub is no longer stable, which would cause shaking, moving, and excess noise, you may need to replace this part. The tools you will need in order to make this repair include a Phillips screwdriver and a pair of locking pliers. You will find the insulator on each end of this piece. We recommend replacing both springs in your appliance at the same time to ensure even wear.
Fixes these symptoms
- Will not drain
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Eric from Hillsboro, OR
Inner support spring and vibration shock both broke - tub dropped down within the washer
Remove powerRemove water connections
Pull out washer to have sufficient room to access the back and the top.
Removed the top panel (4 screws at top- back)
Removed the back panel (a lot of screws)
Removed small metal retainer strip on top edge over broken spring
Removed broken spring, hung top of new one.
Pulled up tub to as I stretched out the spring to mount spring to tub
From the back, unplug and remove 2 crews holding the electronic motor control unit from lower left
For both shocks:
This was the most "difficult" part - locate the 2 plastic retainer pins holding the shock, locate the tooth (or tab) holding the pin in place and push the tab in (I had to use some leverage - its stiff plastic covered in grease - a spare screwdriver handle helps to push the tab down).
After pins are removed, shock just pulls out (weight of the tub handled by the suspension springs).
Replace with new shocks (1 pack has a pair), replace pins.
Reinstall motor control unit.
Reassemble frame. reattach water supply lines.
I had to plug in the washer, activate a cycle, then unplug/plug in the washer again.
It helps to have a screwdriver attachment for a variable speed drill to handle all of the screws.
All told - about 45 minutes, most of this spent on removing the pins. Read more...
Your Price
$31.44
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Spring-Held Bellow Clamp
PartSelect Number PS1146211
Manufacturer Part Number 134527100
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Robert from Schenectady, NY
Leak in the big hose connecting the pump to the washer
The top, control panel and front and back of the machine are removed - all by just removing simple sheet-metal screws. NOTE: remove the soap drawer, because there are two longer screws behind the drawer front. When replacing these later, get them just snug because "tight" will crush the supporting plastic. Don't bother to unplug all the wires to the control panel - just tape it to the top of the machine so it doesn't fall. The rubber part to be replaced is held to the machine by three large spring-held bellows clamps. Squeeze the ends with a pair of pliers and slide them off the tubing. When putting the new part on, I found that the cramped space and difficult access made getting two of the spring-held bellows clamps impossible to get back on, so I used automotive-style stainless hose clamps, which screw tight from the side. Be cautious to get them very snug but not super tight because, you can crush the plastic tubing to which you are fastening. Reassembly of the panels on the machine is the reverse.
Read more...
Your Price
$11.80
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Hose Clamp
PartSelect Number PS11743008
Manufacturer Part Number WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
jeff from lindenhurst, IL
Washing Machine was leaking water
Loosened the hose clamp, removed the injector valve and injector nozzle assembly, replaced both and tightened with new hose clamp. Fixed the problem for less than $20!! Washing machine is 20 years old and this was the first problem--hopefully it is now good for another 20 years!
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Your Price
$20.84
In Stock
Kenmore Washer Clamp Assembly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xp5sV_1SSKw
Step by step instructions were clear and concise. Easy job. Saved hundreds by not having a repair person come to the house. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS3530864
Manufacturer Part Number ACA56078801
This is an outer seal clamp designed for use within LG washing machines. This clamp tightens and secures the gasket that seals the washer tub from the door. If your gasket is loose fitting and is not damaged or warped, this clamp is likely worn out and in need of replacing. This clamp is an OEM part and is made entirely of metal, with a strong tension spring in the middle. This outer seal clamp is sold individually and will require a set of pliers to replace.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Randy from PETERSBURG, WV
Old smelly boot seal ... 10 years old, bottom drain in boot plugged with dog hair.
Followed instructions in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xp5sV_1SSKw
Step by step instructions were clear and concise. Easy job. Saved hundreds by not having a repair person come to the house. Read more...
Related Kenmore Washer Parts
- All Kenmore Washer parts
- Kenmore Washer Agitators
- Kenmore Washer Bearings
- Kenmore Washer Belts
- Kenmore Washer Brackets and Flanges
- Kenmore Washer Caps and Lids
- Kenmore Washer Circuit Boards and Touch Pads
- Kenmore Washer Dispensers
- Kenmore Washer Doors
- Kenmore Washer Drawers and Glides
- Kenmore Washer Drums and Tubs
- Kenmore Washer Filters
- Kenmore Washer Handles
- Kenmore Washer Hinges
- Kenmore Washer Hoses and Tubes
- Kenmore Washer Knobs
- Kenmore Washer Latches
- Kenmore Washer Legs and Feet
- Kenmore Washer Motors
- Kenmore Washer Panels
- Kenmore Washer Power Cords
- Kenmore Washer Pulleys
- Kenmore Washer Pumps
- Kenmore Washer Seals and Gaskets
- Kenmore Washer Springs and Shock Absorbers
- Kenmore Washer Switches
- Kenmore Washer Timers
- Kenmore Washer Transmissions and Clutches
- Kenmore Washer Valves
- Kenmore Washer Wire Plugs and Connectors
