Kenmore Range Hardware
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Popular Kenmore Range Hardware
This was made more difficult by the fact that the screws that hold the burners to the range top were rusted and had to be drilled out so the the burners could be released from the top.
1. Disconnect the power to the range.
2. Open the top oven door.
3. Remove 2 - 1/4" sheet metal screws at the front corners of the range top assy. Remove the Burner knobs and the two Phillps screws that holds the gas valve assembly to the range top.
4. With a drill, remove the tops of the screws to release the burners from the range top. If the screws are in good condition and just unscrew them and the upper burners from the Orifice Holders. (I had to replace the orifice holders because the screws were stuck in them due to rust).
5. When the burners are free, lift the range top at the front and remove it from the range. Disconnect the ignitor wires from the ignitors on each holder.
6. To replace the Orifice Holders, disconnect the gas supply pipes from each holder by loosening the compression nut at the holder using an adjustable wrench. Secure the Orifice Holders when loosening the fittings, BE CAREFUL not to damage the aluminum gas supply pipes.
7. Note that there are 3 different Holders, be sure to use the holder that matches the specific location.
8. For LP gas fueled ranges ONLY, remove the small gas jets from the old holders and install them in place of the parts supplied with the new orifice holders. The new parts contain NATURAL GAS jets which are not compatible with LP gas. Each Different Orifice Holder uses a specific orifice or jet, make certain that the orifice matches the orifice holder. Check for leaks at the gas connections using soapy water.
9. Carefully raise the old ignitor switches (4) off the shafts of the gas valves. Note the top and bottom configuration of the switches
10. Carefully release the wires that come from the rear of the range from the rearmost switch. Press a suitable pin or other suitable tool in a the hole, beside the wire, just enough to release the wire. (Look at the NEW switch assemble to see how this works). Remove the wires from the NEW switch first to see how it is done. Repeat the process on the old switches. (you will re-use the wires that come up from the rear of the range.
11. Install the new switch assembly over the four (4) burner gas valves, take care to align the "D" shaped shafts with the holes in each valve.
12. Insert the wires in the two connections on the rearmost switch. CAUTION!!! Be sure to install the wires so that the color codes agree with the wires on the new switch assembly. Black to black and gray to gray.
13. Install the 4 clear plastic "shields" over the shafts and against the top of each switch.
14. Re-connect the ignitor wires to the burners and Re-Install the range top, in the reverse order of dis-assembly. Read more...
- Element will not heat
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I had noticed that the former element was sagging at the front end. I installed the additional clips (not original) on each forward end of the element for additional support. Read more...
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully. Read more...
- Removed te two Torx screws.
- Pulled the burner a couple of inches to be able to disconnect the wire.
- Spent a lot of time removing the small Philips screw holding the ignitor. Ended up breaking the ignitor with pliers to be able to put WD40 under the screw's head.
- Treated all screws with a high temperature copper paste to prevent oxidation.
Installed the new ignitor with the new screw.
- Reconnected the wire.
- Installed the two Torx screws.
- Voila, it works. Read more...