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The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Before you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine whether or not it is defective. If your element is not defective, then it is more than likely that the infinite burner switch is the issue. Before you install the infinite burner switch you will need to unplug your range from the power supply, or shut off the home circuit breaker. The tools you will need to do this repair include a number one square head screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers.
What this part fixes:
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when broiling
- Oven is too hot
Installation Instructions
William from Burke, VA
Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
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passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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This surface burner element switch is for an 8-inch surface burner on an oven, stove, or range. The element switch controls the heat of the surface burner. Disconnect power to your range before completing this repair because you will be working closely with electrical circuits. Remove the screws from back panel and the console, and remove the console to expose the switch. It is recommended to check for overheating or arcing on the wiring harness in case they need to be replaced as well. The harness that connects to the switch features a slip-on terminal for easy installation.
This surface burner element switch is for an 8-inch surface burner on an oven, stove, or range. The element switch controls the heat of the surface burner. Disconnect power to your range before completing this repair because you will be working closely with electrical circuits. Remove the screws from back panel and the console, and remove the console to expose the switch. It is recommended to check for overheating or arcing on the wiring harness in case they need to be replaced as well. The harness that connects to the switch features a slip-on terminal for easy installation.
Installation Instructions
chaz from fairplay, CO
the element did not turn compleatly off, the on light stayed on.
removed the screws holding the back metal panel, this exposed the wires to the switch. tested the wires to find that they were live when the switch was in the off position. ordered a new switch. UNPLUGED THE STOVE. removed the knob on the front of the stove. this exposed 2 screws, removed screws and the switch came away from the stove. re
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moved each wire from the old switch and replaced them in the same position on the new switch. inserted new switch into the stove and attached the 2 screws. replaced back panel and pluged in stove. all tested well
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The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to change the heat intensity. The knob to adjust the heat setting mounts on the shaft of this swtich. The burner knob is sold separately. If your large surface element will not turn on, or you cannot adjust the heat intensity, you may have a broken or damaged surface burner switch. Be sure you disconnect your range from the power source before you begin this repair.
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to change the heat intensity. The knob to adjust the heat setting mounts on the shaft of this swtich. The burner knob is sold separately. If your large surface element will not turn on, or you cannot adjust the heat intensity, you may have a broken or damaged surface burner switch. Be sure you disconnect your range from the power source before you begin this repair.
Installation Instructions
Marc from Columbia, NJ
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
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$63.75
In Stock
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly likely due to the burner switch needing to be replaced. You will need a #1 square-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power from the range. You will need to move the range out from the wall to remove the upper back panel to access to this part. This is an OEM genuine part.
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly likely due to the burner switch needing to be replaced. You will need a #1 square-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power from the range. You will need to move the range out from the wall to remove the upper back panel to access to this part. This is an OEM genuine part.
Installation Instructions
Gerald from Paris, TN
Switch Was Making A Arcing Sound When Burner Was On
Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, is a genuine OEM replacement designed for 6-inch electric burners on select ranges. It regulates the power supplied to the surface element, allowing precise control over heat levels from low to high. Compatible with models from Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and other associated brands, this dual-coil switch is a common solution for issues such as burners that fail to heat, remain stuck on high, or cannot adjust temperature properly. If the burner heats intermittently or not at all, replacing the switch may restore proper function. Always disconnect power or turn off the circuit breaker before installation. Sold individually.
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, is a genuine OEM replacement designed for 6-inch electric burners on select ranges. It regulates the power supplied to the surface element, allowing precise control over heat levels from low to high. Compatible with models from Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, and other associated brands, this dual-coil switch is a common solution for issues such as burners that fail to heat, remain stuck on high, or cannot adjust temperature properly. If the burner heats intermittently or not at all, replacing the switch may restore proper function. Always disconnect power or turn off the circuit breaker before installation. Sold individually.
Installation Instructions
Bruce from Pasadena, MD
The old switch broke off.
Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.
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This infinite control switch is designed to regulate the heat output of an 8-inch surface burner on electric ranges and cooktops. It allows precise control over temperature levels by adjusting the voltage sent to the heating element, ensuring consistent and responsive cooking performance. Compatible with a wide range of models, this component is a direct replacement for switches that fail to heat or maintain temperature. The switch operates by responding to user input via the control knob, delivering the appropriate voltage to the burner. Installation requires disconnecting the appliance from power and using standard tools. Safety precautions, including wearing protective gloves and consulting model-specific instructions, are recommended.
This infinite control switch is designed to regulate the heat output of an 8-inch surface burner on electric ranges and cooktops. It allows precise control over temperature levels by adjusting the voltage sent to the heating element, ensuring consistent and responsive cooking performance. Compatible with a wide range of models, this component is a direct replacement for switches that fail to heat or maintain temperature. The switch operates by responding to user input via the control knob, delivering the appropriate voltage to the burner. Installation requires disconnecting the appliance from power and using standard tools. Safety precautions, including wearing protective gloves and consulting model-specific instructions, are recommended.
Installation Instructions
RON from KAUFMAN, TX
The burner would keep heating after turning off the switch
Start by turning off the power to the range.
It was fairly easy to take the "Control Deck" off the top of the range by removing about 8 screws. I leaned the deck forward without removing any wires except a green ground that was held on by one of the screws.
There are two small screws under the switch knob holding the Infinite S ... Read more witch to the panel. I removed these and let the switch hang on the wires. To avoid missplacing or crossing the wires... I moved one wire at a time to the new switch, then attached the switch to the panel and put it all back together.
Whole job was done in about 15 minutes
It was fairly easy to take the "Control Deck" off the top of the range by removing about 8 screws. I leaned the deck forward without removing any wires except a green ground that was held on by one of the screws.
There are two small screws under the switch knob holding the Infinite S ... Read more witch to the panel. I removed these and let the switch hang on the wires. To avoid missplacing or crossing the wires... I moved one wire at a time to the new switch, then attached the switch to the panel and put it all back together.
Whole job was done in about 15 minutes
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$52.95
In Stock
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat levels by cycling the element on and off, rather than relying on fixed temperature settings. Operating at 240 volts and drawing between 4.4 to 7.4 amps, the switch ensures consistent and responsive heat control. Replacing a faulty switch can resolve issues such as the element not heating, staying stuck on high, or fluctuating in temperature. This component is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cooking performance.
This surface element control switch, also known as an infinite switch, regulates the power supplied to a 6-inch, 1560-watt heating element on electric ranges. It allows for precise adjustment of heat levels by cycling the element on and off, rather than relying on fixed temperature settings. Operating at 240 volts and drawing between 4.4 to 7.4 amps, the switch ensures consistent and responsive heat control. Replacing a faulty switch can resolve issues such as the element not heating, staying stuck on high, or fluctuating in temperature. This component is essential for maintaining safe and efficient cooking performance.
Installation Instructions
Marc from Columbia, NJ
The switches failed on both front burners.
Remove nobs from both switches.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Pull out the range (the hardest part).
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL
Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel.
Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets.
The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the ... Read more screws.
Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch.
When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches.
Replace the back panel with 7 screws.
In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
Read less
This surface burner switch is a genuine replacement component designed to regulate the heat output of the left front burner on select electric ranges. It functions by cycling electrical power to the burner, maintaining the desired temperature throughout cooking. A faulty switch may result in overheating, lack of heat, or the burner remaining at a single temperature setting. Replacing this part restores precise temperature control and ensures safe, consistent operation. Installation should be performed with the appliance disconnected from power, and may require basic tools and reference to model-specific instructions.
This surface burner switch is a genuine replacement component designed to regulate the heat output of the left front burner on select electric ranges. It functions by cycling electrical power to the burner, maintaining the desired temperature throughout cooking. A faulty switch may result in overheating, lack of heat, or the burner remaining at a single temperature setting. Replacing this part restores precise temperature control and ensures safe, consistent operation. Installation should be performed with the appliance disconnected from power, and may require basic tools and reference to model-specific instructions.
Installation Instructions
Shannon from Orlando, FL
Front 3 setting burner was not heating properly; switched to high without adjustment
Looked up the part in the online manual, watched a YouTube video, removed upper back of range, swapped out part. Saved $200!!
This infinite switch is for 8-inch range burners. When an element is unable to produce any heat on a modern oven, the problem may lie with the infinite switch. This switch is responsible for sending power to the surface elements. Check the element and terminal block to ensure they are working properly. If they are in working order, check the infinite switch at the control panel for any wires that have overheated, or broken terminals to or from the infinite switch. If the infinite switch is damaged or malfunctioning, it will need to be replaced. Remember to unplug your range before beginning this repair.
This infinite switch is for 8-inch range burners. When an element is unable to produce any heat on a modern oven, the problem may lie with the infinite switch. This switch is responsible for sending power to the surface elements. Check the element and terminal block to ensure they are working properly. If they are in working order, check the infinite switch at the control panel for any wires that have overheated, or broken terminals to or from the infinite switch. If the infinite switch is damaged or malfunctioning, it will need to be replaced. Remember to unplug your range before beginning this repair.
Installation Instructions
JACK from FRANKLINVILLE, NJ
Burner switch would not regulate heat
Turn off breaker in electric panel fore stove. Put screw driver into slots in front of glass top surface. Pry top up carefully until top pops up.Remove burner dial, remove two philips head screws holding switch. Lift top carefully and prop up.With new switch close remove wires from old switch one at a time and place on new switch. Place n
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ew switch back in place, securing with philips screws. Remove prop and carefully press top down until it snappes into place.Replace dial, turn breaker back on and try burner.
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This switch controls the stove top surface burner. This surface element control switch is for ranges.
Surface element control switch turns the surface element on and off and controls how much heat the element produces.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker for the range before installing this part.
This switch controls the stove top surface burner. This surface element control switch is for ranges.
Surface element control switch turns the surface element on and off and controls how much heat the element produces.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker for the range before installing this part.
Installation Instructions
Miguel from PLANT CITY, FL
The front left dual element stopped regulating temperature
Replaced the dual element switch and that fixed it up