Kenmore Freezer Elements and Burners
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Popular Kenmore Freezer Elements and Burners
Kenmore Freezer Defrost Heater
PartSelect Number PS426768
Manufacturer Part Number 216730700
This stainless steel defrost heater is designed to melt frost buildup from the evaporator coils during the automatic defrost cycle, ensuring consistent airflow and temperature regulation within the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Positioned near the evaporator, it activates periodically to prevent ice accumulation that can obstruct cooling performance. A properly functioning defrost heater supports energy efficiency, reduces compressor strain, and helps maintain food freshness. Common symptoms of a failing heater include excessive frost, temperature fluctuations, and prolonged appliance run times. Replacing this component restores optimal cooling and system balance.
Fixes these symptoms
- Fridge too warm
- Frost buildup
- Too warm
- See more...
Kenmore Freezer Defrost Heater
Open freezer and Remove the bottom 2 shelves and drawers.
Remove 6 screws (Phillips) securing the inside access panel located in the back of the unit.
Locate the defroster bar which is secured to the bottom of the condenser radiator. Trace the cable to the thermostat that is clipped into the condenser coil.
Unplug thermostat power cable located at the top left of the condenser coil, and the defroster bar cable on the upper right.
Release metal band that secures bar to the coil at the bottom where the coil and bar are secured.
Reverse for installation. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS10060305
Manufacturer Part Number 5304496284
This refrigerator freezer defrost heater assembly is a genuine OEM component designed to melt frost and ice buildup on the evaporator coils during the automatic defrost cycle. By clearing frost, it ensures proper airflow, efficient cooling, and energy-saving performance. The assembly includes a defrost thermostat, which monitors temperature and activates the heater when needed for reliable operation. Ideal for replacing a faulty heater, this part helps prevent cooling issues and maintains optimal appliance performance. Installation should be performed with the power disconnected.
Fixes these symptoms
- Frost buildup
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mel from LAKE CHARLES, LA
Defroster and thermostat
Unplug freezer. Open freezer and Remove the bottom 2 shelves and drawers.
Remove 6 screws (Phillips) securing the inside access panel located in the back of the unit.
Locate the defroster bar which is secured to the bottom of the condenser radiator. Trace the cable to the thermostat that is clipped into the condenser coil.
Unplug thermostat power cable located at the top left of the condenser coil, and the defroster bar cable on the upper right.
Release metal band that secures bar to the coil at the bottom where the coil and bar are secured.
Reverse for installation. Read more...
Your Price
$80.82
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Kenmore Freezer Refrigerator Defrost Heater
B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10 Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740357
Manufacturer Part Number WP2315530
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- Frost buildup
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Teri from West Valley City, UT
We were getting ice forming in the freezer compartment and water in the frig compartment
A. remove food from freezer and store in cooler etc.B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10 Read more...
Kenmore Freezer Defrost Heater
PartSelect Number PS10062889
Manufacturer Part Number 5304496687
This defrost heater assembly is designed to melt frost and ice buildup from the evaporator coils during the automatic defrost cycle. By preventing excessive ice accumulation, it helps the refrigerator or freezer maintain proper temperatures and run more efficiently. Replacing a faulty heater can resolve issues such as heavy frost buildup, temperature problems, or a defrost cycle that is no longer working correctly.
Fixes these symptoms
- Frost buildup
- Too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Mark from SEYMOUR, TN
Compressor keep running would not cool.frozen coil
As per instructions.removed inside shelves.removed back cover over coil let thaw.removed old thermostat &clips as per instructions.replaced with new.
Read more...
Kenmore Freezer Defrost Heater
PartSelect Number PS12368655
Manufacturer Part Number 5300JK1005K
Upgrade your refrigerator performance with this high-quality LG Defrost Heater. This essential component tactfully eliminates frost buildup from the evaporator fins during the automatic defrost cycle, ensuring your appliance consistently performs at its peak. Remember to unplug your refrigerator before embarking on installation and wear work gloves for safety. This Defrost Heater is tailored to work seamlessly with selected models of LG Refrigerators, assuring you of its compatibility and efficiency. Enjoy boost in appliance performance with this genuine, superior quality, LG Defrost Heater. Always confirm the compatibility of this part with your model before purchase, as slight size and shape variations can occur.
Kenmore Freezer Defrost Tube Heater Kit
Several good YouTube videos on replacing the "Heat Probe", though generally for newer models. You can probably figure it out, though.
Unplug the 'fridge
1. empty the freezer
2. take out the shelf and ice maker (three screws w/ 1/4" nut driver)
3. remove the "floor" of the freezer (two screws w/ 1/4" nut driver)
4. remove the back of the freezer (two screws w/ 1/4" nut drive)
You will see ice buildup in the drip tray and in the drain hole. That's the problem.
This is probably a ton of ice under the freezer floor. I used a thin metal spatula to pry up the sheets of ice, up to the metal drip tray.
I used a heat gun (a hair dryer would probably work) to thaw the ice around the drip try and pry it out. Don't over heat anything. Take your time. Don't melt anything other than the ice and do that slowly.
Be VERY careful around the fins and refrigeration tubes.
It took about an hour to get all the ice out except for the iced up drain hole.
Boiled some water and carefully poured it on the ice in the hole. Blot out the melted ice with a sponge or paper towel. Do this over and over until the ice is about a half inch below the lip, still plugging hole.
Use a turkey baster or a funnel with a piece of hose and keep pouring hot water into the drain hole. The baster is good because you can not only add the water, you can suck out the melt water.
Keep doing this until you start hearing water draining into the drip tray underneath the 'fridge. The drain hole is now clear.
Wrap the heat probe around the black tube under the refrigeration coils and fins and insert the tab into the hole.
Crimp the heat probe tightly around the black tube and attach it tightly with the screw.
NOTE: My refrigerated did not come of a heat probe originally and the kit did NOT come with an attachment screw, so I had to improvise. If you are replacing you probe, save the screw.
Reassemble the freezer in reverse order of disassembly. Hooking the ice maker back up is a royal PITA. And make sure you attach the little grounding wire to the tab on the back panel before you attach the panel.
Plug the refrigerator back in. The ice maker won't work until the freezer is cold enough to make ice again. That will take several hours. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS392527
Manufacturer Part Number 819043
Also known as heat probe. This part prevents drain freeze-ups.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Chris from SANDIA PARK, NM
Freezer drain hold iced up, interior of 'fridge floods
Second time in about two months, and it's never done it before in the 19+years we've had it. Several good YouTube videos on replacing the "Heat Probe", though generally for newer models. You can probably figure it out, though.
Unplug the 'fridge
1. empty the freezer
2. take out the shelf and ice maker (three screws w/ 1/4" nut driver)
3. remove the "floor" of the freezer (two screws w/ 1/4" nut driver)
4. remove the back of the freezer (two screws w/ 1/4" nut drive)
You will see ice buildup in the drip tray and in the drain hole. That's the problem.
This is probably a ton of ice under the freezer floor. I used a thin metal spatula to pry up the sheets of ice, up to the metal drip tray.
I used a heat gun (a hair dryer would probably work) to thaw the ice around the drip try and pry it out. Don't over heat anything. Take your time. Don't melt anything other than the ice and do that slowly.
Be VERY careful around the fins and refrigeration tubes.
It took about an hour to get all the ice out except for the iced up drain hole.
Boiled some water and carefully poured it on the ice in the hole. Blot out the melted ice with a sponge or paper towel. Do this over and over until the ice is about a half inch below the lip, still plugging hole.
Use a turkey baster or a funnel with a piece of hose and keep pouring hot water into the drain hole. The baster is good because you can not only add the water, you can suck out the melt water.
Keep doing this until you start hearing water draining into the drip tray underneath the 'fridge. The drain hole is now clear.
Wrap the heat probe around the black tube under the refrigeration coils and fins and insert the tab into the hole.
Crimp the heat probe tightly around the black tube and attach it tightly with the screw.
NOTE: My refrigerated did not come of a heat probe originally and the kit did NOT come with an attachment screw, so I had to improvise. If you are replacing you probe, save the screw.
Reassemble the freezer in reverse order of disassembly. Hooking the ice maker back up is a royal PITA. And make sure you attach the little grounding wire to the tab on the back panel before you attach the panel.
Plug the refrigerator back in. The ice maker won't work until the freezer is cold enough to make ice again. That will take several hours. Read more...
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