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Tub Bearing Washer

$ 5.04   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS271509
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1197
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Tub Bearing Washer Specifications

This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Leaking | Shakes and moves | Pumps but will not spin
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WH2X1197 replaces these:
AP2045288, 279135, WH02X1197
Questions and Answers

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11 questions answered by our experts.
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Chris Silko
September 15, 2017
Follow up: My washer has been steadily making more noise over the past few weeks. I would say it is not a squealing, nor is it a banging, nor is it really a grinding sound. It sounds like it always has in the spin cycle, only about 5 times louder. It is basically so loud that you can't have a normal conversation while standing in front of it. You have to raise your voice to talk while near it. The sound is just a very loud, constant, steady "running" type sound. No banging and no squealing. So if i had to pick one of the three sounds, i would say it is a grinding sound, but not in the sense of metal on metal grinding that i think of when i think of grinding. Just a dull machine/motor running kind of sound at an unusually large volume. Thanks.
For model number VVSR1040V2WW
Hi Chris, Thank you for your inquiry. There are a few parts that you will have to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the tub dampening strap, the tub bearing, the agitator coupling kit, the split ring, the hub washer, the tub seal, the drain pump and motor assembly, the transmission and brake assembly, the clutch and the suspension rod and spring assembly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Randy
September 17, 2019
The hub nut comes loose everytime we wash a load of clothes. Sometimes it comes loose in the middle of a cycle and i have to retighten it. Once tight it works fine with no more shacking than any other machine i've seen. My question is why will the nut not lock into place?
For model number GTWN5650F2WS
Hello Randy, thank you for your question. It sounds like the hub nut has stripped. We would recommend replacing the PartSelect Number: PS271505 This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. I hope this helps!

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Andrew
October 18, 2019
My wife put a heavy blanket in the wash and after that the next load of clothes had grease spots all over the clothes. Could that be the bearing leaking grease?
Hi Andrew, that does sound like the case, the only way to know for sure is to dissemble the unit and inspect the individual parts. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!

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Matteo
February 10, 2020
I change mode shifter once i tightened the mode shifter to the bottom metal mount it lifts up causing the bearing washer to be loose and water leaks when wash clothes any help willl be great full thanks
For model number Don’t have it 2010 he top loader
Hello and thank you for writing. Here is our link to help you find your model number: https://www.partselect.com/Find-Your-Appliance-Model-Number.aspx We are looking forward to your response.

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John
January 29, 2019
Replaced tub bearing and when attaching motor assemby and rod back to tub, the tub bearing washer doesn't fit all the way snug to the shaft after i put the bolts back in the brackets to hold the assembly to the outer tub. I know this is probably not normal but how do i fix it?
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hi John, Thank you for your question. There is a video listed with the part on our website that you may reference on how to install the parts. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Gary
November 29, 2017
I am having a noise issue with this washer during the spin cycle. It is very loud. I have replaced the tub bearings, split ring, hub washer, and hub nut. After all that it is still making the same noise. I checked the motor, pump, and shaft drive assembly, and all of those appear to turn smooth. What next? It makes this noise whether it is loaded or empty.
For model number GLWN2800D1WS
Hello Gary, Thanks for your question. Start by checking the drive belt and the drive pulley for any signs of wear and tear, cracks, or damage. Check also the water inlet valve, as that can buildup obstructions which will cause noise. I hope this helps.

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Walt
January 29, 2019
Changed the tub bearing and still hearing loud noise like airplane during spin cycle. What other areas should i look at next?
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hello, thank you for your inquiry! We recommend checking this part (tub bearing washer), the tub dampening strip part PS271100, and the drive belt part PS1482278. These are often the culprits for noisy washers. We hope this helps!

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Michelle
October 7, 2017
We are having an issue with our GE washing machine making a kind of metal on metal grinding sound only during the very beginning of the agitation cycle. We have replaced all the dampening straps and that didn't fix the problem. We have taken the front off to see if we can tell where the sound is coming from. It is definitely at the very bottom of the washer. It doesn't make the sound during spinning or even the entire agitation cycle. My husband applied a small amount of pressure to the tub while it was making the sound and it immediately stopped. The second he let go it began again. It happens during both agitation cycles. It is so loud, I have to shut the door to the laundry room and I can still hear it all over the house! It's driving me insane! Please help! Thanks so much for any and all advice!
For model number WTRE6260F0GG
Hi Michelle, Thank you for the question. This sounds like the Tub Bearing,PartSelect Number PS271510.This is the most common part replaced with the Metal on Metal rubbing noise occurs. Hope this helps!

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Marvin Norris
December 11, 2019
Any suggestions how to get that agitator cup off? It seems to be stuck in place and i cannot remove it ... to replace the bearing & seal
For model number HSWP1000M3WW
Hello Marvin, thank you for your question. You can try to use some lubricant or use a strap to provide some leverage to get that out of the unit. The drive cup slides up and off the shaft so it does not turn. I hope this helps.

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Krishna
December 28, 2019
My washer has been steadily making loud high pitch noise over the past few weeks. I would say it is not a squealing, nor is it a banging, nor is it really a grinding sound. It sounds like it always has in the spin cycle.Very loud,. It is basically so loud that you can't have a normal conversation while standing in front of it. The sound is just a very loud, constant, steady "running" type sound. No banging and no squealing. I would say it is a grinding sound, but not in the sense of metal on metal grinding that i think of when i think of grinding. Thanks.I have changed the the buffer straps, the agitator coupling looks good but i tried taking it out without success, the tub bearing below has a large space between the bearing and the assembly. if this is the problem then i would have to damage the agitator coupling and others thus the required advice.
For model number WCSR2090D5WW
Hello Krishna, Thank you for your question. If there is a decent amount of space between the tub bearing and the transmission, that is likely causing the loud noise during the cycle. You should be able to uninstall the tub bearing without having to damage the agitator, we advise following the video repair guide on the part page of the tub bearing itself to make sure you don't damage any other parts. We hope this helps!

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Related Parts:
Part Videos

Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing Washer

Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.0 / 5.0, 25 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.

I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.

The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.

The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.

I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.

I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.

The entire job took 5 hours.
205 of 241 people found this instruction helpful.
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The Hub Under the Spinner basket broken/ Deteriorated
Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks
105 of 126 people found this instruction helpful.
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tub would not spin / motor was smoking
the hardest part was getting the hub nut off. You have no room for a big wrench, I ended up chiseling it off.once I got it a part I saw the transmission was leaking oil, I checked every thing else, every thing seemed fine. I read on this web site that a common failure was the hub, mine was not in the best of shape so I replaced it while I was in there.replaced tub bearing,washer hub, hub nut , retaining clip for clutch,ring split, transmission and tub bearing 1/2 and $250.00 later the machine works like new.The diagrams that give you the part numbers were very helpful in the reassembly.
55 of 87 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leakage from the bottom of the tub through the shaft seal
Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bearing above brake plate on transmission unit failed, brske material broken up
First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above). After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.
30 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
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Grind noise becoming worse
Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.
27 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud noise, burning smell during spin cycle
The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.
20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Excessive agitator side movement
Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.

She led a good life.

My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..
17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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transmission leaking grease
removed front cover the agitater then cover over large nut then large nut then inner tub then split ring and tub bearing then disconnected the hardware around the outer tub then replaced transmission then put back together in reverse order.
13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very Noisy In Spin
When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.
12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Related Parts
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS271509
Manufacturer Part Number: WH2X1197
Brand
Model Number
Description
General Electric
51451Y1WW
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51451Y2WW
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General Electric
52120TAWB
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56021A0WW
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56121T2WW
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56121T3WW
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56121T5WW
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56121T8WW
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56121TAWW
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56200T2WB
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56200T3WB
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General Electric
56200T5WB
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General Electric
56220T6WW
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General Electric
56220T8WW
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General Electric
56220TAWW
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General Electric
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56221B0WW
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General Electric
56221B2WW
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56231B1WW
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56231B2WW
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56231B3WW
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