Part Location Diagram of WH02X10383 GE Tub Seal
See part 311 in the diagram
Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Seal
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Tub Seal WH02X10383

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16 Reviews

Rated by 33 customers 

A Bit Difficult 

More than 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.

$ 16.71
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PartSelect Number PS4704237
Manufacturer Part Number WH02X10383
Manufactured by GE for General Electric, Hotpoint
Product Description

Tub Seal Specifications

The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault. NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
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Part Videos

Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Seal

Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Seal
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Marks left on clothes
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
Part# WH02X10383 replaces these:
AP5645738, WH02X10032, WH02X1196, WH2X10032, WH2X1196
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 33 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Water leaking in the floor occasionally with no obvious leaks anywhere
ORDER Spanner wrench for GE tub nut. Impossible to remove hub nut on a washer with age without it. Purchase 1 11/16 in spanner wrench, tub seal, hub nut , split nut
and washer under
agitator all at one time or you will struggle with this repair. The few cents you save is not worth it, the video they provide does a good job but theirs washer
is new hope this helps
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring Hub Washer
  • Greg from Shannon, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Hub washer replacement
I noticed a loud noise during the spin cycle, I purchased a bearing, but after taking the washer apart, I realized that the hub was worn out, I replaced the bearing and other parts to put it back in running condition, it was a worthwhile job, and cost saving. I have to thank partselect for the helpful videos.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring Screw - 1/4-20 MCH HXW 5/8 S Inner Tub Base Hub Hub Washer Tub Bearing Washer Hub Nut V-Style Drive Belt
  • Dennis from NOBLESVILLE, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very large noise during spin cycle
Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly 6-Rib Drive Belt Tub Bearing Tub Bearing Washer
  • Ashok from CUPERTINO, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very loud noise during spin cycle
I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Tub Bearing Washer
  • Norm from LIBERTY, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Leaking shaft seal
This sounds like an easy fix to replace the shaft seal after watching the video, Oh how WRONG was I.....Firstly the video and parts list show just pull the agitator off..... NOOOOOO the bolt (Screw) is deep inside the agitator and that has to be removed to get the agitator off.....maybe in some models they have changed this poor design but not mine....As the screw is open to all the water and detergent guess what, it was so corroded you could get a sock to grip on it. Only solution was to cut the agitator in half at the bolt head level to get a vice grip on the rounded bolt head to undo it........It doesn't stop there, then you have to remove the fins in the remaining part agitator to get get the vice grips on. OK so far so good, now try and undo the big left hand thread nut....good luck, totally corroded, tried penetrating oil, heating it up you name it, nothing. I had a 1 11/16 socket but you need a deep socked as the shaft protrudes too far...solution drill the nut in three places to break it off the thread....OK so far we are winning....Now try to get the split spacer off the corroded shaft, no way was that going to happen it did eventually span in half so had to buy that too.....NOW WE STILL have to get the washer off the shaft...Run out of space to continue...
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Agitator Screw - 1/4-20 MCH HXW 5/8 S
  • Donald from SAINT JOSEPH, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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loud squeal on spin cycle Bad tub bearing.
First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring Tub Bearing
  • Dan from Mendota, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The washer was really noisy and it leaked.
I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring Hub Washer Tub Bearing Tub Bearing Washer Hub Nut
  • Eugene from BALLSTON SPA, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Noisey during spin cycles
Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 seconds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly Split Ring Dial with Compression Ring Timer Knob 6-Rib Drive Belt Hub Washer Tub Bearing Tub Bearing Washer Hub Nut
  • Daryll from MURRYSVILLE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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water was dripping down onto the belt and stopping movement
front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Split Ring
  • B. from WILLISTON, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Water leaking from between inner shaft and outer shaft of assembly and teeth worn off of clutch assembly
Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was another issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.
Other Parts Used:
Tub Seal Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly Tub Bearing
  • Dean from GLEN BURNIE, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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Stanley
October 15, 2017
Grease on the cloths
For model number WKSR2100TAWW
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Hi Stanley, Thank you for the question.Normally when your clothes come out with grease marks it is due to the Tub Seal. If the seal needs to be replaced it can let grease from the transmission into the tub of the washer. Hope this helps!

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Bob
May 2, 2018
No question. Just a comment that might help some folks get the agitator out. I had gotten the story about just pulling up and it will pop off. Ha! No amount of effort would get it to budge. On other projects i have found the application of heat to be very helpful in loosening tight components. In this case, i let enough hot water into the tub to achieve a level above the drive block and let it stand 10 or 15 minutes. Drained the water and pulled the agitator off with hardly any effort at all.
PartSelect logo
Hi Bob, Thank you for your insight Bob! Have a great day.

11 people found this helpful.

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Lamar
November 17, 2017
My tub is leaking water when it is washing clothes
For model number WPRE615OK1WT
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Hi Lamar, Thank you for your inquiry. If your tub is leaking water, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the drain hose, the tub seal, the drain hose clip, the pump to tub inlet inlet drain hose, the drain pump, the spilt ring, the tub bearing, the hub washer, the flood gasket, the water inlet valve and the tub bearing. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Bill
February 13, 2018
Replacing tub seal. Video shows agitator just popping up when grabbed from skirt. Mine comes up a short distance (1/4 - 1/2") and then feels like it is blocked by something. Afraid to force it too strongly, the agitator cap came off easily, but don't see any bolt . Appreciate any help.
For model number WDSR2080DAWW
PartSelect logo
Hello Bill, thank you for your question. Sometimes, the agitator can become stuck and you will need to use quite a bit of force to remove it. Other customers have indicated that they had to work the agitator side to side quite a bit as they were pulling up, in order to get it removed. The agitator for you appliance simply pulls up and off the drive block, there is no bolt holding it into place. I hope this helps!

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Bill
February 15, 2018
This is the response i received: "hello bill, thank you for your question. Sometimes, the agitator can become stuck and you will need to use quite a bit of force to remove it. Other customers have indicated that they had to work the agitator side to side quite a bit as they were pulling up, in order to get it removed. The agitator for you appliance simply pulls up and off the drive block, there is no bolt holding it into place. I hope this helps!" i tried pulling with force, but the agitator doesn't seem "stuck or frozen". It comes up slightly: However, it feels like it is hitting something that keeps it from coming up any further.
For model number WDSR2080DAWW
PartSelect logo
Hello Bill, thank you for writing. If the agitator is not budging, and won't come loose by following the previous instructions I would recommend contacting the manufacturer directly for more information. From the model information, schematic information and other stories from customers it seems like it should just pull up. I was able to find a helpful tip from another customer. They indicated they got a length of rope, or strap of some kind that will slide up under the agitator. You will then use leverage to work your way around the agitator and slide it up and off. There is an agitator bell under it that it clips to. This has probably become stuck or seized slightly, which is resulting in the difficulty removing the agitator. Good luck with your repair!

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Richard
April 3, 2018
I have a machine that appears to be leaking down in the area of the tub seal. Is there a recommendation of what parts usually or should be replaced while replacing the seal. I don't want to order the seal only to then find out other parts should have been ordered. Same question for the replacement of a knob dial should i go ahead and order a compression ring, knob and clip?
For model number WPSR3100W0WW
PartSelect logo
Hi Richard, Thank you for your question. There are no recommendations for parts you should change at the same time with this part and the same with the knob as well. As long as all of your other parts are in good condition you should be able to reuse them. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Brian
April 3, 2018
What size wrench do I need to remove the tub nut
PartSelect logo
Hi Brian, Thank you for the question. Here is a link to the video, Steve will list all the tools needed and the size required. Hope this helps! https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=22&v=rwhgUmZ15eY

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Santo
February 6, 2019
Replaced the tub seal and still leaking,ordered another tub seal after install still leaking, Please advise,it's seems to me the seal does not provide a tight seal.The tub seal i used was wh02x10283
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Hello Santo, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!

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Joe
February 26, 2020
My washer leaks water when it is not running. What should i be looking for?Thanks
For model number GTWN4950L0WS
PartSelect logo
Hello and thank you for writing. It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty water inlet valve PS2354072 and/or a possible loose or a faulty drain hose PS890597 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.

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Adrian
February 12, 2019
Where is the model # located i can't find it
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Hello Adrian, Thank you for your question. The model number of the washer can be found in one of the following places: inside the door; on back, on top of the removed control panel, or beside the water inlet on the back. Hope this helps!

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PartSelect Number: PS4704237
Manufacturer Part Number: WH02X10383
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