The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the...Read more washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
This clip ensures that the knob is securely fastened to the control shaft, allowing you to properly select the correct time and setting for your dryer. If your dryer will not start or shut off, the timer will not advance, or the dryer shuts off too soon, the issue may be the control knob itself. This clip is sold individually. Although th...Read moreis part fits with some different brands, be sure to check the list of brands below to make sure it fits with your dryer unit. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions.
The agitator coupler connects the agitator to the agitator shaft. Common symptoms of a damaged coupler include: a grinding sound during the wash cycle, the washer refusing to agitate or spin, or the washing machine shakes and moves during the wash cycle. Unplug the washer and pull the agitator straight up. Remove the bolt that holds the c...Read moreoupler onto the shaft of the transmission and pull the coupler off. Be sure to clean any dirt, rust, or residue off the transmission spline grooves, and make sure the grooves on the agitator splines are clean and undamaged. We recommend using the gasket and bolt that come with the replacement coupling.
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drain. If this parts cracks or becomes damaged it will leak during the drain cycle of your wash and you may find water on the floor. To access t...Read morehe hose, you will need to move the washer away from the wall to get to the back of the appliance. There will be two screws holding it in place that will need to be removed.
The timer knob clip on your washing machine connects the timer knob to the control panel. If your timer knob is damaged or will not stay in place, you may need to replace the clip. If the timer does not advance or the washing machine will not start, this may also be a symptom of a damaged timer knob clip. This part is clear plastic and is...Read more about 1 inch in size. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy, and the only tools you may require are a set of needle-nose pliers. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This is a dual-action agitator for a washer. It is an OEM replacement part that is sourced from the manufacturer. The agitator tosses your clothes to clean them efficiently. This plastic dual-action agitator is white in color. It is approximately 18 inches tall with a base diameter of about 12 1/4 inches. No tools are required for this re...Read morepair. Your agitator has eight tabs that fasten on the drive block of your washer, which is driven by the transmission. This part does not include the agitator coupling kit, which is frequently purchased at the same time as the agitator.
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To acces...Read mores the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an ac...Read moretual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault.
NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
This V-shaped drive belt is 29 1/2 inches long x 1/2-inch-wide, and fits both front-load and top-load washing machines. When belts are worn or frayed, they are known to make noise. If you have a top-load washer, a drive belt may be connecting the transmission to the drive motor. It would generally be a rubber V-belt covered in fabric to a...Read morellow free movement. Or it could be a rubber belt aided by a tensioning device like an idler pulley, to stop the motor from causing too much friction to the belt. For front-loaders, the drive belt goes between the drive motor and the wash basket. If your drive belt is worn or frayed, it should be replaced straight away. After replacing the drive belt, run a wash cycle to ensure the belt is correctly fitted.
This drain hose support clip is a piece for your washer. The purpose of the drain hose support clip is to hold the drain hose in place by attaching to a cabinet. This piece is off-white and is roughly 3.5 inches long, almost 2.5 inches wide, and less than half an inch thick. To install this piece onto your washing machine you will need a ...Read morequarter-inch nut driver. Before starting this repair, make sure to disconnect the power source to your washer, as well as the inlet fill hoses.
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
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One of eight clips broke off of the agitator assy allowing the assembly to come lose on heavy loads.
680 of 728 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Paul from Carneys Point, NJ
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Socket set
I replaced the coupling by only having to remove one bolt with a socket wrench. Once replaced I installed the new assy over the coupling making sure ro align the splines then pushing down until the assy snapped into place. Easy.
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)<
... Read morebr />2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine. 3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump. 4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps. 5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump. 6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.
NOTES: 1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine. 2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...
first remove the front washer cover by finding the two pressure clips that hold it to the top lid. gently push the putty knife into the clips one at a time. this will raise and separate them from the front panel. the panel will tilt forward and u can now remove it from the bottom clips by sliding it up and out. to open the top cover u rem
... Read moreove the two 1/4 in screws on the sides of the front panel and lift the top. make sure to secure it in place or unplug the single electrical connection at the rear and remove the whole top from the clips, its really simple and the most convenient mehtod. to remove the straps u can now get to all four without much interference. there are two size screw heads so make sure u have a nut driver or small socket set. after changing the straps i went to change the agitator coupling. the agitator pulled directly up without a problem. just put your two hands under and pull straight up with one good jolt. the plastic coupler has one bolt in the middle that came out easily with a small socket set. my problem arose when the plastic coupler would not come off the metal shaft. after a short time of pulling and prying i finally decided to cut it off. using a small hacksaw and taking my time i put two cuts into the coupler. they were on opposite sides and where vertical, running along the steel shaft. i could now split it in two and it came off very easily and quickly. now when putting on the new one make sure the splines line up. push as far down as u can then use the center bolt to seat the gear all the way down. the agitator also has to be lined up just right. it also has splines on the interior that allow it to line up with the coupler and merely push down until it reseats itself in place. replace the top of the washer and then the front panel. don't forget to rebolt the top panel to the frame. push the front panel in until it snaps into place. full replacement time was about 40 minutes and actually not bad with the right tools.