This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
Part# WH2X1198 replaces these:
AP2045289, 279136, WH02X1198
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Joseph R - October 9, 2022
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Right part fits perfectly
Fit like a glove
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Ed D - December 15, 2018
Verified Purchase
Replaced the Hub bearing and tub seals. Did not correct the extremely load noise. Any suggestions?7
Hub bearing was in good shape received. Tub seal bought locally. Part did not correct the extremely load noise. Any recommendations?
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 19 reviews.
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Very loud noise when washer was in spin cycle
Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair. The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine. Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in p
... Read moreositive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.
Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it. Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt. Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.
Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help. Knowledge from y
... Read moreou tube was a great help.
Replaced the parts with the highest percentage of noise cause from your website. After replacement and reassembly, with the help from your very helpful instructional youtube and my son's assistance, the repairs did not get rid of the problem. Called and was instructed that it could be the mode shifter shaft assembly. Ordered that, as well
... Read more as a new belt since I would need to disassemble again. Parts came in the next day. Changed out the new parts and the problem was solved. Since I was now familiar with the repair process, this one only took 1 1/2 hours. Very pleased with the level of service and advise received from your group.
First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything bac
... Read morek together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.
I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Noisey during spin cycles
Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 sec
... Read moreonds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Washer screeching during spin cycle.
Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nu
... Read moret and purchase a new nut.
Water leaking from between inner shaft and outer shaft of assembly and teeth worn off of clutch assembly
Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was anot
... Read moreher issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.
Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.
The repair would have gone well, however partselect sent me the wrong part. Instead of a washer belt, they sent me a door seal to what looks like a refrigerator
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18 questions answered by our experts.
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Tim
October 22, 2017
My washer sounds like it’s taking off into space during the spin cycle, it is so loud we can’t hardly function.What might be the cause and what part might need to be replaced?
For model number Gtwn5050m0ws
Hi Tim, Thank you for the question. In most cases this woudl indicate a problem with the Tub Bearing
Part Number: PS271510. It is also a good idea to check or replace the seal, washers and nuts that sit down with the bearing. Split Ring Part Number: PS1766022,Hub Washer Part Number: PS271511,Tub Bearing Part Number: PS271509,Thrust Washer Part Number: PS2355963 and the Hub Nut
Part Number: PS271505. Hope this helps!
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Matt
February 6, 2018
Should the plastic rim on the top of the stainless inner basket be filled with liquid? Dry as a bone on the outside and doesn't leak out no matter how it's oriented.It's magic! Stamped with "part no. 175d2125 cav. 2
For model number gtwn3000m1ws
Hi Matt, Thank you for the question. Yes the water is suppose to be there. It is filled with water during the manufacturing and then sealed. it is to help with balancing the tub. Hope this helps!
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Andy
August 31, 2017
My washing machine makes a grinding sound when the agitator turns. It does not make the sound when it is in the spin cycle. I took the front off and can't seem to determine where the grinding is coming from.
For model number WHRE5550K2WW
Hi Andy,
Thank you for the great question. If you have a grinding noise during agitating you will need to replace the Pulsator Coupling. It is located just under the agitator.
Good luck with the repair !
When changing the tub bearing it seems like there should be some type of lubrication in that bearing to prevent it from seizing up on the shaft. What type of lubricate should I put in the bearing?
For model number HTWP1200D0WW
Hello Donald, Thank you for the question. GE does not list or recommend a lubrication for the Tub Bearing. For more specialized assistance or to speak with someone about this, I would suggest calling the manufacturer of the appliance directly. We hope this helps!
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Michael
March 26, 2019
My tub is loose and i tried tightening but the 1 1/16 nut keeps backing off, the split washer looks a bit worn. The tub bearing looks to be ok. Why would the nut keep backing off?
For model number HSWP1000M4WW
Hi Michael,
Thank you for your question. The nut may be stripped or damaged and it will likely need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Charlie
November 30, 2017
When going into wash cycle, & agitator is trying to engage, machine makes metal on metal noises, & tub starts shaking, turned it off & on about six times, it worked ok for 3 loads; then 4 th load started shaking & metal noises again ? Teeth on agitator & agitator coupling are fine, drive belt is good. Thanks,
For model number WJRR4170G2WW
Hi Charlie,
Thank you for your question. It sounds like you may want to check your tub bearing and your shaft and mode shifter assembly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Joyce
November 19, 2017
My washer has a very loud grinding sound during the wash cycle only. How can I resolve that?
For model number GLWN2800D2WS
Hi Joyce, Thank you for the question.I suggest removing the agitator to check the Agitator Coupling,PartSelect Number PS1482517 to see if the grooves are wore down and rubbing creating the noise.Hope this helps!
My washing machine has several levels such as: Delicate, hand wash, medium wash and heavy wash. The agitator changes speed only when it goes from: Medium wash or heavy wash to delicate or hand wash. Even then, on delicate or hand wash, it is still agitating too fast. What could be the problem?
For model number WCRE6570D1WW
Hello Chris, thank you for your question. It sounds like the issue is the machine control board. We would recommend replacing PartSelect Number: PS960632. I hope this helps!
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Richard
January 8, 2020
The washer is extremely noisy only during the spin cycle
For model number WBB4500E1WW (S/N: GH147875G)
Hello Richard and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty tub bearing PS271510 and/or a loose or a faulty tub dampening strap PS271100, you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. Don t forget the bearing washer PS271509 if you decide to change the bearing.
We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
My machine does not leak or make noise when spinning. It makes a laege noise when washing what parts do i need to replace
For model number wpre6150k1wt
Hello Sandy, thank you for inquiring. This Tub Bearing would be the most likely cause. You will also want to consider the Drive Motor, part number PS2577721, or the Pulsator, part number PS5135709 for your model. Good luck with your repair!
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