Hub Washer WH2X1199

ORDER Spanner wrench for GE tub nut. Impossible to remove hub nut on a washer with age without it. Purchase 1 11/16 in spanner wrench, tub seal, hub nut , split nut
and washer under
agitator all at one time or you will struggle with this repair. The few cents you save is not worth it, the video they provide does a good job but theirs washer
is new hope this helps

I noticed a loud noise during the spin cycle, I purchased a bearing, but after taking the washer apart, I realized that the hub was worn out, I replaced the bearing and other parts to put it back in running condition, it was a worthwhile job, and cost saving. I have to thank partselect for the helpful videos.

Replaced the parts with the highest percentage of noise cause from your website. After replacement and reassembly, with the help from your very helpful instructional youtube and my son's assistance, the repairs did not get rid of the problem. Called and was instructed that it could be the mode shifter shaft assembly. Ordered that, as well as a new belt since I would need to disassemble again. Parts came in the next day. Changed out the new parts and the problem was solved. Since I was now familiar with the repair process, this one only took 1 1/2 hours. Very pleased with the level of service and advise received from your group.

I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.

Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 seconds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.

Go to You tube

I dissasembled the machine and it took about 30 minutes. Orderd the parts recommended for noisy spinning. Reinstalled the new parts / changed all drum straps. Cleaned the drain drum and spin drum and after complete reassembly the washer is still noisy in agitation and spin cycle. The motor,transmission,counter weight,and drum look ok but there is still a reason why the machine is still noisy. Spent 120.00 dollars on parts so far but the drum and motor,transmission and counterweight are very expensive to replace. I am just going to keep using the machine until the washer fails to work anymore. I'm not going to put any more money in the washer. I will just buy a new one. It's not hard to dissasembled and reassemble the washer. I purchased the parts that was recommended to fix the washer but they were not the ones.The new parts did help like the tub seal but the bottom line is that the washer is still noisy. I watched your videos to work on the washer and there were no special instructions on disassembly and reassembly. Like always there must be more than i know to repair this washer. Thanks

The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.

Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.

First and foremost, the job would have taken 2 hrs instead of 8 hrs. The problem was that no one on the help instructions said that the Hub Nut had a LEFT HAND thread and suggested to just break the nut off. Well, after chiseling off most of the nut I drilled small holes through the nut and removed the nut pieces. However; I learned that I had damaged the transmission seal and had to buy a new transmission $183. Had I known this the job would have taken much less time and at a cost of about $50.
PS: The washer runs great.