This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. You will need a hub nut wrench and some WD40 to loosen the nut and remove it from the agitator shaft.
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Washer Hub Nut
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Will not agitate
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
Part# WH2X1193 replaces these:
AP2045284, 279131
Customer Reviews
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★★★★★
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Kevin S - March 23, 2018
Verified Purchase
Great part
The part was in good condition.. it came quick and worked perfect ..my washer machine is working again and my family is happy to have clean clothes .
★★★★★
★★★★★
Justin P - November 8, 2018
Verified Purchase
The right part, good instructions.
Arrived quickly. The correct part in the expected new condition. Instructional videos provided online made the job a snap.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Jeff N - September 25, 2018
Verified Purchase
Works
Washer back to working
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★★★★★
Kasey W - July 22, 2018
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Always the right part. And the videos are extremely helpful.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Nabor R - June 12, 2022
Verified Purchase
Part fit perfectly
Fast shipping, part was in good conditions and fit perfectly.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Chris G - November 2, 2023
Verified Purchase
Repair went quick after getting the old not off
I originally purchased a new hub for the washer. I should have included this nut when i did. The old nut proved much harder to get off than expected. My advice is if you need to do anything else that requires the removal of this nut, just plan on cutting it off, and replacing it. Most likely that is what you will end up having to do anyway. You will be glad you did. Cutting off the old nut was easier than expected. I didn't realize it was aluminum. After getting it off, the rest of the hub replacement went quick. Just wish i had included it in the first place so we didn't have to wait another week to finish the repair.
The nut and service from Part Select was great. Appreciate their useful part references and videos.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 40 reviews.
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Hub washer replacement
I noticed a loud noise during the spin cycle, I purchased a bearing, but after taking the washer apart, I realized that the hub was worn out, I replaced the bearing and other parts to put it back in running condition, it was a worthwhile job, and cost saving. I have to thank partselect for the helpful videos.
Popped the lid and activated the lid switch. Agitator danced around but the tub not moving. Agitator was un-snapped so no issue getting it out. Forgot to shut the timer down. By the time I came back with container's for wet laundry the pump emptied the water. Found this web site for parts and liked what I saw on the help. The video was a
... Read morenice overview but can forget about trying to save the hub nut. The trans shaft has 4 flats on it and years of crud gets drawn into the threads sealing it like it was epoxied in with rust. This one is a 13yr old. Spent most time reading the help stories and gathering up tools. My concern was getting the bad parts out and that hub nut without more damage. Finally found a 1924 vintage 9" monkey wrench I forgot I had and it fit just fine for putting it back together. I put a 1/8" bit in the drill and put a hole in center of nut next to the flats about 1/8" down by 3 of the flats. Wacked the nut in 2 locations with the chisel in the unwind direction with the corner of the chisel in the hole to put a grove on the nut so to keep away from damaging trans shaft. It finally came off in 3 pieces. After pulling the basket stuck a rag in the drain hole. The basket sounds like it has water in it but its the counter weight attached on top. Brushed up the crud on trans shaft and sponged out the remaining water and other particles. Next was a pump inspection. If you take the input line off you can see the impeller to remove any stuff that may damage it. Have to un-bolt the pump be careful on the wiring to pump trying to unplug the wires may damage the connectors or even worse the pump. I mostly had crud in the water on the line. Ordered the needed parts, and cleaned up the tub, reinstalled the pump. After the parts arrived took about a 1/2 hour to put it in service again. Don't forget to wack the hub nut on tight when installing so it wont come off in use. Many thanks to all in sharing their story it helped me out to see what to expect.
was seeing little bits of white plastic and grit after wash. and was making more noise on spin than normal.
even though the washer is 16 yrs old it's like new until it started to make noise and bits of plastic and grit (only used it about once or twice a week. unplugged power. removed front then top and control panel. removed tub top ring and agitator. unscrewed agitator bolt & cup. (that's when I saw the problem, the inner tub base hub was e
... Read moreroded way) tried to unscrew tube nut it was also corroded on and had to cut it off with small cutting wheel ( that took about 2 min.) the shaft and threads were fine. then installed new base hub on inner tub placed on shaft screwed on new nut. installed tub top ring. installed agitator cap and bolt and pressed on agitator. then installed washer top and control panel. note: luckily I checked the water pump and hoses ( even though the water was pumping out fine) there was allot of metal pieces of the old hub in the hoses and pump luckily they did not hit the impeller. run a load of towels, now it's like new again.
The tub base hub developed a large crack and spin started to make a large vibration. Agitator coupling was frozen, so I broke it by dremel, wedge (a minus driver) and a hammer. The hub nut was also frozen, so I cut two slits into the nut with dremel, then broke it into two with a wedge and a hammer. Once the hub nut was removed installing
... Read more new parts was straightforward. Half year ago I replaced the timer and capacitor of this washer and together with this repair the total repair cost has now run up to $300. I think I should have bought a new washer half year ago but now that the repair has been done, I hope it will keep working for at least another 5 years. Otherwise I can't justify the $300 cost.
I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Noisey during spin cycles
Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 sec
... Read moreonds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.
The Hub nut was very corroded and seized, and would not break loose using several types of wrenches & lubricants. The shaft is square with threads only on the corners, I used an electric drill to crack the hub nut on the straight sides of the shaft where there are no threads. All parts are GE and exact replacements, The noise is much less
... Read more, but still a very small water leak. Should work for awhile , but a new washer is in the near future. Parts are good with quality service and shipment.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Inner tub base hub had totally disintegrated
The worst part of the repair was removing the old hub nut. Don't bother messing with the spanner wrench, unless the washing machine has never been used. Split the nut off with a SHARP cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Be very careful not to damage the threads, because not even GE can or will tell you the die size to re-dress the threads if
... Read more you damage them. Check drain pump motor to remove debris before using washer. Parts were delivered in a quick and efficient manner.
Changed Transmission on 18 year old Coin Op GE Washing Machine
Followed the U-Tube video, but...don't waste your time trying to remove the spanner nut with a wrench. Just cut off with a grinder. Second, the hub was locked solid on the transmission shaft. Ended up cutting that off with a grinder also. Would have same myself a few hours of work and lots of frustration if I just cut them off from th
... Read moree beginning instead of trying to remove per the video. Otherwise, very doable, and not a bad job to do yourself.
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11 questions answered by our experts.
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James
October 19, 2017
How can I get the tool to remove the hub nut.
For model number WJSR4160G5WW
Hi James, Thank you for the question. The part number for the Hub Nut Wrench is PartSelect Number PS311934 . Hope this helps!
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Sergio
April 29, 2018
Hello, i have an issue with this washing machine. After some loads, the shaft nut comes loose. I tightened it, and it comes loose after a few loads.
For model number ghwn4250d1ww
Hello Sergio, Thank you for your inquiry. The nut may have become stripped or damaged, in that case it should be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Javier
November 8, 2018
Confirm the part number for the hub nut wrench applicable for my GE washer model? I understand that is the same one for all GE washers, right? Thx in advance x your support!
For model number WHRE5550K2WW
Hi Javier,
Thank you for the question. The part number for the Hub Nut Wrench is PartSelect Number PS311934 . I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Jacob
February 2, 2018
I have ordered a replacement hub nut and watched this video for how to replace it. My question is why is it necessary to disassemble so much of the machine if the nut can be accessed after you pop off the agitator. It seems unnecessary and he never explains why he is doing that but i do not want to bypass all of that and damage something else on my machine. Https://www.Youtube.Com/watch?Time_continue=370&v=idayja4npio
Hi Jacob,
Thank you for your question. You have to disassemble the way that he does in the video to make sure you do not break anything else. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Aurelio
April 26, 2018
Wrench for center nut removal
For model number WHRE5550K2WW and Serial: 146660G
Hi Aurelio,
Thank you for your question. I have linked that part down below for you. Good luck with your repair.
How do I get the hub nut off without the special tool?
For model number GTWN4250M0WS
Hello Michael, Thank you for the email. You will need a hub nut wrench in order to remove it sorry. The part number for the Hub Nut Wrench is PartSelect Number PS311934 . Hope this helps!
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Dan
August 2, 2018
Do you have a spanner wrench for the hub nut on this model?
For model number WJRE5500G2WW
Hi Dan,
Thank you for your question. You will need a hub nut wrench in order to remove it. The part number for the hub nut wrench is PS311934. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Thomas
March 5, 2020
What size is that nut inside drum under agitator
For model number Gtwn300miws
Hello Thomas, Thank you for the question. This hub nut is approximately 1.5 inches in diameter. We hope this helps.
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Elvin
January 31, 2023
I have changed the belt, and the switch assembly. My washer drains water but does not spin leaving clothes soaking wet. The agitator does spin but not the tub. I'm starting to think it the coupler. Do you agree?
For model number GCWP1000M0WW
Hello Elvin, Thank you for writing. This could be an indication the Agitator Coupling is worn and needs to be replaced. We suggest checking the Agitator Coupling for wear or damage. We hope this information helps!
Hi !!
Is it normal to have loose and bakclash between the drive pulley and the shaft/drive tube assembly splines ???
I asked a question about hub nut unbolt by herself to 2 days ago and i was wondering if it can have a relation with it.
For model number GTAN4250D2WW
Hi Stephane, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, a good spline joint provides very high secure torque transmission, little clearance, minimum backlash, good centering between the coupled components, low noise, low wear, and small or no axial forces. We hope this helps!
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