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Whirlpool Refrigerator Timers
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Popular Whirlpool Refrigerator Timers
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
Installation Instructions
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o
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pens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
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This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Installation Instructions
Bonnie from CARLSBAD, CA
Deep Freezer leaked, warmed up to about 60 degrees, door no longer pulled shut when closing
You should know that the freezer leaked for months before it warmed up. It's not connected to water (no ice maker in it) so I figured it was ice build-up that was melting and causing the leak.
When it warmed up I called a repairman who said the start relay was bad and estimated $500 to replace it. I disputed this because the c ... Read more ompressor was running. I asked him if perhaps the freon was low, he said if it was, we should dispose of the freezer.
I even asked him to take $300 to replace that relay, but he refused so I paid him his service fee and sent him on his way. Turns out even $300 would've been a ripoff.
I watched several videos on diagnosing warm freezers. I tried contacting many online parts stores but PartsSelect.com was the only one that answered and had kind and patient techs willing to explain things to me.
I tested the evaporator fan motor, which turned out to be bad. The tech recommended other parts that might also be bad so I put them all into the shopping cart, including the overload (by accident, not sure how I got that one as I did not need the overload for this repair). I did buy the relay in case the unethical repair guy was right about the relay being bad.
The parts arrived quickly and the diagrams/video supplied by this site were very helpful. I used my cell phone to take photos of everything before I started so I could put all wires back in their proper places, etc.
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR:
Very easy to replace. I removed the cover panel as instructed, and removed the screws holding the motor with my nutdriver. The blades slid off the motor nice and easy--I did not have to fiddle with the clip at all, just slid them off and on.
There is a third hole in the white bracket that worried me because I didn't see a corresponding third hole in the photo online of that part. But when it arrived, it did have the hole so I was able to plug it in just fine.
I removed the middle wire from the old part's white bracket NOT by pulling on it. I removed it by gently pushing an allen wrench into the hole and then the wire came out easily so it could be plugged into the new part.
Very easy overall to replace the Evaporator Fan Motor.
BI-METAL DEFROST THERMOSTAT:
Another very easy to replace part! Find the old part, unplug it and plug in the new part! Once the panel is removed to access the fan, you can hold up the new part and use it to find the old one. In this model it was easy to find.
DEFROST TIMER:
This was on the back of my freezer, in the cavity that holds the compressor. Once I located it, it was a simple thing to replace it. I used the nut driver to unscrew the screws and unplugged it, plugged in the new one, put the screws back... super simple.
START RELAY:
This was the scariest for me but turned out to be simple. I had to lie on the ground to get close enough and position a bright light so I could see everything clearly. (I'm a 60-year-old gal with poor eyesight and creaky bones!) The cell phone came in handy here to take up close photos of the assembly.
Another difficult step: grabbing the relay to pull it out. It was difficult to gain purchase on it but I finally figured it out.
A third difficulty (only for me) was pulling off the terminals without damaging the wire. I followed the video closely here, grabbed the terminals and not the wire and worked at them to pull them off. They were on very tight, difficult but I did get them off.
Installing the new relay was easy. Attach the terminals (cell phone photo of original part helped me ensure I got the right wires to the right place) and plug it in (cell phone helped again so I could line up the pins before pushing).
The old part rattled just barely -- so perhaps it WAS on its way out, but certainly not worth a $500 repair the repairman wanted! And as you will see, it was not the only thing not working in our this freezer.
The freezer started right up -- compressor humming nicely -- but after 24 hours it was only 60 degrees. At that point I called PartsSelect.com and they spent a long time with me on the phone. We decided it might be leaking freon but they don't have parts or info on adding freon.
I researched "how to add freon to your freezer" and found a great video by Vegas Romaniac on youtube.
Turns out you need to make sure your gauge has a DVA-1 adapter; the link in the youtube video sends you to an old-style gauge, so if you buy that one you'll need to go to Walmart for a DVA-1 adapter ($3).
Another issue: the green gasket in that gauge prevented it from seating properly, it took me a very long time before it finally seated and pierced the can...
When it warmed up I called a repairman who said the start relay was bad and estimated $500 to replace it. I disputed this because the c ... Read more ompressor was running. I asked him if perhaps the freon was low, he said if it was, we should dispose of the freezer.
I even asked him to take $300 to replace that relay, but he refused so I paid him his service fee and sent him on his way. Turns out even $300 would've been a ripoff.
I watched several videos on diagnosing warm freezers. I tried contacting many online parts stores but PartsSelect.com was the only one that answered and had kind and patient techs willing to explain things to me.
I tested the evaporator fan motor, which turned out to be bad. The tech recommended other parts that might also be bad so I put them all into the shopping cart, including the overload (by accident, not sure how I got that one as I did not need the overload for this repair). I did buy the relay in case the unethical repair guy was right about the relay being bad.
The parts arrived quickly and the diagrams/video supplied by this site were very helpful. I used my cell phone to take photos of everything before I started so I could put all wires back in their proper places, etc.
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR:
Very easy to replace. I removed the cover panel as instructed, and removed the screws holding the motor with my nutdriver. The blades slid off the motor nice and easy--I did not have to fiddle with the clip at all, just slid them off and on.
There is a third hole in the white bracket that worried me because I didn't see a corresponding third hole in the photo online of that part. But when it arrived, it did have the hole so I was able to plug it in just fine.
I removed the middle wire from the old part's white bracket NOT by pulling on it. I removed it by gently pushing an allen wrench into the hole and then the wire came out easily so it could be plugged into the new part.
Very easy overall to replace the Evaporator Fan Motor.
BI-METAL DEFROST THERMOSTAT:
Another very easy to replace part! Find the old part, unplug it and plug in the new part! Once the panel is removed to access the fan, you can hold up the new part and use it to find the old one. In this model it was easy to find.
DEFROST TIMER:
This was on the back of my freezer, in the cavity that holds the compressor. Once I located it, it was a simple thing to replace it. I used the nut driver to unscrew the screws and unplugged it, plugged in the new one, put the screws back... super simple.
START RELAY:
This was the scariest for me but turned out to be simple. I had to lie on the ground to get close enough and position a bright light so I could see everything clearly. (I'm a 60-year-old gal with poor eyesight and creaky bones!) The cell phone came in handy here to take up close photos of the assembly.
Another difficult step: grabbing the relay to pull it out. It was difficult to gain purchase on it but I finally figured it out.
A third difficulty (only for me) was pulling off the terminals without damaging the wire. I followed the video closely here, grabbed the terminals and not the wire and worked at them to pull them off. They were on very tight, difficult but I did get them off.
Installing the new relay was easy. Attach the terminals (cell phone photo of original part helped me ensure I got the right wires to the right place) and plug it in (cell phone helped again so I could line up the pins before pushing).
The old part rattled just barely -- so perhaps it WAS on its way out, but certainly not worth a $500 repair the repairman wanted! And as you will see, it was not the only thing not working in our this freezer.
The freezer started right up -- compressor humming nicely -- but after 24 hours it was only 60 degrees. At that point I called PartsSelect.com and they spent a long time with me on the phone. We decided it might be leaking freon but they don't have parts or info on adding freon.
I researched "how to add freon to your freezer" and found a great video by Vegas Romaniac on youtube.
Turns out you need to make sure your gauge has a DVA-1 adapter; the link in the youtube video sends you to an old-style gauge, so if you buy that one you'll need to go to Walmart for a DVA-1 adapter ($3).
Another issue: the green gasket in that gauge prevented it from seating properly, it took me a very long time before it finally seated and pierced the can...
Read less
The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
Installation Instructions
Peter from Eden, UT
Fridge and freezer didn't cool enough
I diagnosed the problem via the internet. Diagrams helped a lot. Coils were frozen over. Thawed them out overnight. Manually advanced timer and the defrost heater was operable. The defrost timer wasn't "turning" on it's own. I turned the fridge back on while I awaited the part. It worked fine for the time I had to wait. (over two
... Read more
weeks since I had delayed ordering the part) New timer arrived as promised. Undid 4 hex head (1/4") screws. Unplugged 4 prong connection. Plugged in new timer and replaced the 4 screws. Frigde works great.
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This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for twenty-seven minutes after every ten hours of run time. It comes with 2 screws and 2 nuts.
This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for twenty-seven minutes after every ten hours of run time. It comes with 2 screws and 2 nuts.
Installation Instructions
John from Navarre, FL
Freezer on side by side fridge would freeze up and stop refrigerator from working
The defrost timer was mounted in refridgerator by the temp. control. Just two mounting screws to remove. Tested this part as discribed in trouble shooting section. It needed to be replaced. Also found the defrost elements behind the rear wall of freezer, they were the glass tube type one was clearly blown. The freezer coils were a solid b
... Read more
lock of ice. No way the air could flow into refridgerator part. used a hair dryer to defrost also used a thicker wire ot unclog the drian that leads to pan under fridge. this one had two glass tube heaters that wear held in with two screws each. just unplug wires. I also replaced the thermostat since it was right there and it was the only other part listed that could cause the freeze up. bottom line its like i have a brand new side by side fridge. These kind are like $1500 to replace. So for $99 in parts and and hour or work I got my fridge back. Thanks for your help and getting the right parts here in just a couple of days.
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This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
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