Whirlpool Refrigerator Elements and Burners
Popular Whirlpool Refrigerator Elements and Burners
Whirlpool Refrigerator FLIPPER MULLION Assembly COMPL XL
PartSelect Number PS11756814
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10624451
Fixes these symptoms
- Door won’t open or close
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Installation Instructions
Gerald from CHICAGO, IL
Doors wouldn't close properly
Unscrewed the mullion, lift to remove. Unplug the little electrical connector. Putting the new one on was just a little tricky, getting it to hook on, but not a big deal. Works as good as new now.
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Whirlpool Refrigerator DEFROST HEATER
PartSelect Number PS11738607
Manufacturer Part Number WP12729128
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- Frost buildup
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Whirlpool Refrigerator Heater
PartSelect Number PS11752658
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10316428
Fixes these symptoms
- Frost buildup
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Your Price
$61.00
In Stock
Whirlpool Refrigerator Heater, Defrost
PartSelect Number PS11740459
Manufacturer Part Number WP2323198
The heater is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation. The thermostat must be replaced when replacing the defrost heater.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Your Price
$62.02
In Stock
Whirlpool Refrigerator Heater, Defrost
PartSelect Number PS11739991
Manufacturer Part Number WP2263749
The defrost heater is similar to the burners on an electric stove. It's located just beneath the cooling coils, which are concealed behind a panel in the freezer compartment. The heater gets hot. And, because it's close to the cooling coils, any ice or frost build-up melts.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Joann from ATCHISON, KS
Freezer wasen't cooling refrigerator
Removed the old defrost heater screws and connected the new one. I have 46 apartment units here and have had about 15 defrost heater's replaced by service repair person at a very expensive cost. To my surprise it was extremly easy and a lot less in cost.
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Whirlpool Refrigerator Grid Cutter Assembly
PartSelect Number PS11770079
Manufacturer Part Number W10919199
Whirlpool Refrigerator Heater
PartSelect Number PS11754723
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10436849
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
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Installation Instructions
Pam from SEAGROVE, NC
evaporator coil iced solid then fan would would scrape making loud noise
First you have to pull power plug and after removing trays and door to freezer,, i removed ice maker and metal coil cover then i melted ice cake by using a space heater blowing in to freezer compartment ,, then i looked at how old part was mounted and installed my new one the same ,,, all this was done laying on my side up in freezer,,, it would have been easier if it was a top freezer rather than a bottom freezer like mine.i did all this hoping the defrost heat element was defective,any way it is back together working good.
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Whirlpool Refrigerator Heater
PartSelect Number PS11738606
Manufacturer Part Number WP12729127
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- See more...
Your Price
$87.98
In Stock
Whirlpool Refrigerator Heater, Defrost
PartSelect Number PS11740358
Manufacturer Part Number WP2315531
This part is located at the bottom of the evaporator. The defrost heater heats the evaporator in the defrost mode of operation to keep the cooling coils from frosting over. The thermostat must be replaced when replacing the defrost heater.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- Leaking
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Installation Instructions
A. M. from Bay Minette, AL
Water was dripping from the freezer into the non-frozen area, and the non-frozen area was not cooling
I first disconnected the power cord and then removed all the panels and disconnected the Defrost Heater at the quick-disconnect, and cut the wires on the Defrost Themostat. (The Defrost Thermostat had been replaced about 10 years ago when the Defrost Heater was replaced.) One of the reasons it took longer than 15 minutes was because there was a buildup of ice in the freezer section. I then soldered the wires and covered them with a plastic sleeve and wrapped them in electrical tape. After replacing all the panels and re-connecting the power cord, I restarted the refrigerator. After one week, there is no water dripping from the freezer and everything is working properly. Your diagnosis of the problem was exactly right. Thanks for the info.
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Your Price
$93.05
In Stock
Whirlpool Refrigerator Defrost Heater
B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10 Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11740357
Manufacturer Part Number WP2315530
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Fridge too warm
- Frost buildup
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Teri from West Valley City, UT
We were getting ice forming in the freezer compartment and water in the frig compartment
A. remove food from freezer and store in cooler etc.B. turn off frig with dial in main compartment, then pull frig out away from wall and unplug and remove the cover ( It is located at the bottom of the frig and may be cardboard and contains a handfull of 1/4" screws) exposing the compressor and drain tube (this is a good time to vacume the compressor and coil area)
c. Take false back off from freezer by removing two 1/4 inch screws.
Next,
1. we made sure that the drain tube that runs down to a drain pan near the evaporator coil was clear, we did this by using a small aount of rock salt to speed up the melting of the ice then poured small amounts of hot water (boiling into the drain hole and soon the water flowed down the tube and into the pan below.
2. We then pushed a #12 standed electrical wire (with its end stripped back 1-1/2" then folding the strands back to create a broom) down the tube to the pan to push out any debree that may be present i.e. tin foil plastic bag particles, food chunks etc.
Making sure that this drain tube is clear is the first thing that could be causing the ice build up and water in the lower compartment!
However, I performed this several times and didn't change the problem so I chose to change the parts associated with defrost:
1. defrost heater, which is very easy to change. it is mostly plug and play but does require a pair of needle nose pliers to open a couple of metal fins to remove heater from its mounts, just be gentle with the process.
2. defrost thermostat, which is also very easy to change (Simply pull it off of a copper tube) but requires you to cut two wires near the old part and wire nut the new part wires to the remaining original wires, I added some anti oxident to the wires inside the wire nut to prevent a bad connection from developing do to moisture in this area (You can buy wire nuts with this already inside them, do this)and I taped the wire nut with a few inches of ELECTRICAL TAPE CLOSING OFF THE OPENING OF THE WIRE NUT.
You can then put his cabinet back together!
3. I also decided to change the defrost timer which is located inside a cover where the frig temperture setting dial is located. It is held to this cover by two phillips screws the cover is held in place by one 1/4" screw.
once you have the cover off and the defrost timer unscrewed you must remove a plug from the timer!
Now if you got the exact part you simply reinstall the defrost timer plug in the same postion on the new timer and screw the timer back onto its mount etc. However you may need to determine if the new timer is in the "DEFROST" position and you will need to take it out of that position by I assume rotating the timer mechanism (Ask a tech person about this)!!!!!!!!!
Then with all that done plug your frig vack in reposition it turn it on and be proud of yourself.
Now, if you recieved the timer I did it may look the same as the old one, but it may contain a black wire!!!
You will need to know which type of defrost timer application you frig uses:
1. Continuous run
2. version 1 Cumulative compressor run.
or
3. version 2 Cumulative compressor run.
I found a wiring diagram folded up and stored in the grill in the bottom of the front of the frig that helped me determine this. you will need to be able to read a wiring diagram but I found this situation to be simply a matter of matching examples of pictures (line diagrams). It is important though as you must determine which timer application your frig has because the black wire must be placed on a certain terminal for proper operation.
I replaced a three parts and may have, through trouble shooting, been able to save some money by not replacing all these parts. However , I found that when I went for guidance on trouble shooting that i.e. with the heater that ohmic values of the old part may be near the new part that it may still not be conclusive!? so for a hundred bucks my frig may last 5-10 Read more...
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