Defrost Timer Kit - 120V 60Hz R0131577

I didn't know what the problem was so replaced all 3 parts.
What I think actually fixed the problem is the Cold Control Thermostat that is not listed here. This part accessed by removing the dial control in the front of the Freezer. Part wasn't exactly the same but worked. I looped the sensor toward the front of the dial. Also replaced the Run Capacitor from the the back of the unit (Very Easy). Replaced the Defrost Timer from the Front of the unit (Easy). Now keeping 35-40 degrees in the Fridge and -15-0 in the Freezer. Nice. I plan to replace the Condenser Fan Motor also as it is a bit noisy.

Talked to a bud who does this kind of work and he walked me thru the simple job. Also watched a you tube segment. Very easy job. Took off the front kick vent panel. Unscrewed the metal holder and unplugged old part, plugged new part in and put panel back on. Turned on unit and it is working like a charm. Got my fingers crossed just in case.

Used information on internet as to how to check and repair unit. Due to high cost to have repair come to let me know it was broken, being handy with repairs, I took it upon myself to check the timer and therm, ordered the parts from this site , got them within 5 days, took about 40 minutes to use simple tools to remove and replace the timer and therm, used hair dryer to defrost coil unit and turned unit on, lit has been working well since then, about 2 weeks since repair. Saved lots on repair/labor cost and parts cost. Well satisfied, will use this product company again. I WAS AMAZED HOW EASY REPAIR WAS, WIFE HAPPY NOW!

use your site as a referance no problem customer rep was great also

for timer-removed front base cover, removed timer from mount plate- r2 timer-reattached plug- installed front base cover. for defrost thermostat- remove all trays and slide mounts-removed back metal cover- remove thermostat and unplug wires. Cut three inch section of brown wire with terminal from old thermostat and replace on new thermostat using an in line splice. reassemble

Read on Internet that a warm freezer was caused by frost build up on the coils. Took of coil cover in freezer section and verified this. There were two possible sources, a bad Bimetal Defrost thermostat or a defrost timer. I did notice that the defrost thermostat top was bulging and suspected it was the problem. However, since my food was rotting, I did not have time to order the defrost timer if the thermostat was not the issue... so I purchased both parts. The only issue I had with installing is that the defrost thermostat wires ended up going through a tight sealed opening in that back wall with cooling lines. At the end of the new defrost thermostat there was a connector that would not fit through the opening. After taking off the back cover panels, I discovered that the wires were just hanging out the back unconnected with a label of "Factory Test". So, I just cut them and pulled the wire out. Then I did not bother to run the new defrost thermostat wires through and just tied them up with supplied zip tie. Problem was fixed... never needed to install the defrost timer kit.

My fridge / freezer started getting very warm. But, the compressor and condenser fan were operating. I chose the defrost timer from the parts select suggested list. I took it apart and noticed the contacts were in bad shape. I validated this with my dvm meter. By checking continuity across the contacts while turning the timer knob. I also used my meter to check for 115 vac across the 2, 1 connections. . As you turn the timer knob, you'll hear a click. This should close the contacts and connections 4,3 should power up the evap fan. I also pulled the evap fan and powered it up on my test bench. I did this just to validate the timer was the problem. So, if you have a running compressor and condenser fan. Check the contacts on the defrost timer located under the front grill of your unit with a dvm. There is a small gear motor that runs the timer. Don't be fooled by the fact it's running. If the contacts are toast, replace the timer unit. Total time to fix the problem should be 15 mins. Tops.

I used the process of elimination. The freezer was cold but the fridge side was warm. The motor was runing but the fan was not working. I unplugged the power cord and pulled everything out of the freezer. Then I took the coil cover out. The unit was frozen solid. I used my wifes hair dryer to melt the ice on the coil and spray water with a bottle to speed up the process. It took about 15 minutes to melt the ice and plug the power cord again. The motor kicked on and the fan started blowing right away so I know it's not the fan. The following morning it was frozen again. I repeated the process of taking everything out and tested the heater element with a multimeter. It wasn't working allowing the ice to build over the coil so I replaced it. It took about 30 minutes to replace but two days later it froze again. I read a little to learn about the timer and the thermostat function in a refrigerator. The timer rotates to turn off the motor and turn on the heater element to melt the ice on the coil. I tried to rotate it but it felt too hard to turn and it smelled burnt out so I replaced it at once. It took me less than 10 minutes to replace. I also learn that the thermostat reaches certain temperature and activates the fan which blows the cold air out of the coil and throughout the fridge compartments. Because the coil and the thermostat were getting covered in ice, it was not activating the fan to blow the air out keeping the freezer side cold and the fridge side warm. By replacing them both, the thermostat and the timer I solved the problem. It took about 30 minutes to replace the thermostat but now it's working like a brand new one again.

First let me say the appliance guy said I needed to replace the whole freezer coils within the freezer part but the unit after using a hair dryer would work fine for two weeks then freeze up again. His conclusion of leaking refrigerant did not make sense, nor the noting of uneven freezing, so I figured I would take a chance on logic. The worst part was unloading the refrig and throwing away a boat load of food. Anyway once I removed the back panel that reveals where the defrost thermostat is I simply followed the wires by disconnecting the old and attaching the new until I got to the last two - brown and orange which actually go behind the defrost heater element and disappear below the fan. I cut both & used the adapter peice did a crimp - done. The timer took 5 minutes. Its working fine and cooling fabulously! I wanted to get past the two week point it is now in its 4th and doing fine. By he way the cams, thanks to your video took 10 minutes. Very satisfied and will recommend DIY because everyone else seems to want to retire on my dime!

I was not sure what the fix was on my refrig, so I ordered the defrost timer kit, bimetal defrost thermostat, and the evaporator heater(about 100.00 in parts)
I think my entire problem was the bimetal defrost thermostat, as it was somewhat bulged out on the plastic side.
The evaporator coils would freeze over--the evap. fan would not work and the cold water dispenser would not work. I did't have time to just replace one part at a time so I ordered all three parts that have to do with the defrosting of the evap. coils.
The parts worked and the refrig. is operating fine. Thanks to parts select for a super fast delivery(one day).