Washer Seals and Gaskets
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Your Price
$162.91
Front Load Washer Bellow Door Boot Seal - Gray
The only difficult part was putting the outside band clamp on over the bellow without it slipping out of place - took a few tries. The video was very helpful - I did put hardware into plastic bags based on the steps in the removal for so that I wouldn't forget (or get them mixed up).
I was able to do this project while home from work with a sick kindergartener. Problem started and did the removal the first day ordered the part and it arrived 2 days later - install complete in less than an hour. We went back to school/work with a operating washer by the end of the week! Thank you - it was actually kinda fun and my son bragged to his grandfather that 'he and momma fixed the washer'. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11753988
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10381562
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Leaking
- Marks left on clothes
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Laura from WAYLAND, MA
Washer leaking - noticed large crack in the seam of the bellow
9 year old washer started leaking - after inspecting noticed a large hole in the bellow. The only difficult part was putting the outside band clamp on over the bellow without it slipping out of place - took a few tries. The video was very helpful - I did put hardware into plastic bags based on the steps in the removal for so that I wouldn't forget (or get them mixed up).
I was able to do this project while home from work with a sick kindergartener. Problem started and did the removal the first day ordered the part and it arrived 2 days later - install complete in less than an hour. We went back to school/work with a operating washer by the end of the week! Thank you - it was actually kinda fun and my son bragged to his grandfather that 'he and momma fixed the washer'. Read more...
Your Price
$63.09
Door Gasket
BUY THE TOOL! Buy the spring expander tool. I tried with needle nose and bloodied my knuckles. I am sure you all are strong and more adept, but next time I will buy the tool. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS3524977
Manufacturer Part Number 4986ER0004F
Also known as a door boot seal or bellow and comes with a drain hole. Door boot 4986ER0004F is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part that fits some front-load washers in these series: Kenmore and Kenmore Elite 796; and LG WM and CW.
Door boot 4986ER0004F forms a seal between the wash tub and the door, preventing leaks.
This door boot includes a drain port; if your 27-inch LG front-load washer was made before September 2007, use door boot 4986ER0004B instead, because those washers don't have a drain port.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Leaking
- Marks left on clothes
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Andrew from BOTHELL, WA
Door gasket had hole
Removed and replaced. BUT...BUY THE TOOL! Buy the spring expander tool. I tried with needle nose and bloodied my knuckles. I am sure you all are strong and more adept, but next time I will buy the tool. Read more...
Your Price
$158.85
Front Load Washer Bellow - Gray
PartSelect Number PS11748353
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10111435
Also known as a door boot seal.This part is used to keep the clothes inside the tub during the wash cycle. The folds in the bellow allow the tub to move separately from the door during the spin cycle.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Marks left on clothes
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Marty from Belfair, WA
Water leak from bottom of door.
I discovered water leaking from the bottom of the door on our Kenmore front load washer. I did a little self diagnosis from the internet and found that this seems to be a common problem for front load Kenmore washers and that the ususal suspect is the large rubbery bellows. I examined the bellows on my washer and although I didn't find anything wrong with it, I couldn't find any other likely causes. I shopped around and found PartSelect to be the cheapest for the replacement part. Removal is easy by removing the lower front panel with three small screws on the bottom front, then remove the very top panel and then the top front control panel and finally the door panel. the bellows are actually held in place with a spring loop on the outer and a screw tightener on the inner, both are fairly easy to remove and the bellows comes right off. For installation my best advice is to lube the bellows with a small amount of dishwashing soap in the groove that fits on the washer tub. This will help it slide into place and enables a small amount of sliding fine tuning once it is on. From there it is just a reverse of the removal.
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Your Price
$16.10
Tub Seal
I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS4704237
Manufacturer Part Number WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault.
NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Marks left on clothes
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008. I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.
The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.
The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.
I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.
I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.
The entire job took 5 hours. Read more...
Your Price
$205.48
Front Load Washer Bellow
PartSelect Number PS12074757
Manufacturer Part Number W11106747
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Marks left on clothes
- See more...
Your Price
$5.56
Centerpost Gasket
PartSelect Number PS11723081
Manufacturer Part Number W10814296
This part may also be referred to as a main outer tub seal. This part prevents leaking from the bottom of the tub. The gasket is approximately 2 inches in diameter to the outer edge, black in color, and made of plastic material. To perform this repair, you will need to disconnect the power, drain hose, and the inlet hose. You will need to remove the entire outside cabinet to have access to the tub assembly. The tub will need to be removed entirely. This is a genuine part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Dexter from Milwaukie, OR
Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose
After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom." I figured out from there which symptom the washer had and read what other people were saying and how they made the repairs. Basically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator. I focused on the loud noise first and decided I needed to replace the clutch/brake assemblies. I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video! After removing the console, back panel and cabinet then laying the machine on its back just as seen on the video, I had access to the water pump, motor, transmission and related clutch/brake parts. As it turned out I did not need the clutch/brake assembly but as a precaution and because the parts were cheap, I replaced the motor coupling, water pump and tub wear pads. I decided to replace the agitator assembly because of several worn parts associated with the dog ears/drive shaft ETC. I put the machine back upright and took off the top cap on the agitator, then there is an inner cap with seal that gives access to the 7/16" bolt you must remove to remove the agitator. However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring (has several clips around the outer tub), then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic. In this process I also noticed where my leaks (did I say Leaks) were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. and you should be good to go.
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Your Price
$31.56
Rear Tub Gasket
PartSelect Number PS3522855
Manufacturer Part Number 4036ER2004A
If you notice your washing machine is leaking water from the top of the transmission, it might be due to the gasket being damaged or worn down. When replacing your gasket, consider replacing your tub bearings at the same time. The gasket (or seal) is located at the back of the outer tub of your washing machine. To access this part you will need to pull the top off of the appliance by releasing the screws holding it in place. This part is sold individually, is black in color, and measures 3 inches in diameter.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Todd from STOCKTON, KS
Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
Read more...
Your Price
$110.48
Door Boot Seal
PartSelect Number PS3535210
Manufacturer Part Number MDS47123602
This door boot is for washers.
Door boot forms a seal between the wash tub and the door, preventing leaks.
Unplug the washer before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Matt from ROYAL OAK, MI
Replaced the washer door gasket
Followed the videos on line. However instead of buying the $75 spring expansion tool I used two zip ties. One at each end of the spring to create loops for my index fingers to pull the spring apart. Needed a second person to help hold the ring in place at 3&9 position.
Read more...
Your Price
$13.36
Washer
PartSelect Number PS11742027
Manufacturer Part Number WP3949550
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Will not agitate
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Patrick from Marysville, WA
The upper agitator arm would not rotate
It was extremely easy. I removed the plastic cap under the softener dispenser, removed the nut and washer that holds the upper agitator in place and then replaced the parts that came in the kit. The most important note for those who may be doing this job is that the o-ring for the cap under the softener dispenser, the seal washer for the bolt and the thrust spacer under the upper agitator all came with the kit. I did not realize that and ordered them all seperately.
Read more...
Your Price
$208.00
Washer Door Bellow
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring streached about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or other to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and the secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
Now it is time to install the Hose clamp. Un bend anything that might have bent on the clamp. With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. This w Read more...
PartSelect Number PS11744957
Manufacturer Part Number WP8182119
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Marks left on clothes
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Franck from Annandale, VA
Bellows were moldy, needed to replace
The first step is to remove the retainer ring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring streached about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or other to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and the secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
Now it is time to install the Hose clamp. Un bend anything that might have bent on the clamp. With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. This w Read more...
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