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PLES389DCC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PLES389DCC
16 - 30 of 123

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replacing the fan on a convection oven (fan was making a vibration noise)
17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Stevensville, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. O nce there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.
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My inner glass shattered during the cleaning cycle.
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christie from Prairie Villiage, KS
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I looked online and read what other people had done. The best advice was keeping all the screws in the order they were taken out. I also separated the screws that had come from the top, sides and inner side of the door. This helped immensely as I reassembled the door. I spread out a heavy garbage bag that I cut open. This kept debris and glass off of my kitchen floor. This is NOT a difficult repair; Parts Select said it would take three days to get me the glass; it arrived in TWO! Start to finish, the entire job took just about an hour. I saved myself over $100, and again, this is NOT difficult!
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Noticed oven was heating but upper element not coming on.
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from LEXINGTON, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.
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Replaced Bake Element
12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandy from Baileys Harbor, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Based on previous responses we anticipated this repair to be easy, however, it was a little more challenging than expected. The method of repair was easy enough, just would have been better if there had been more wire to pull out to connect to the new bake element. It took two of us to fish for the wires back inside the stove with a needl e-nose pliers after removing the element. One had to hold the wire with the pliers while it took the other to attach it to the new element with second pair of pliers as there was no room for using fingers. Retrieving and attaching the second wire to the element was even more challenging because now the half-attached element was in the way. Disappointed and not sure why the element burned out in the first place on a 4year old appliance.
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Old element connections different from new element
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frederic from KILLEEN, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnected power at breaker. Removed cooktop mounting screws, lifted top and propped in up position. Removed two screws and lowered two front burners mounting frame. Wiggled dual element free at the clips and proceeded to swap wires one at a time and realized the difference with connectors 1a and 2b much later when only the center porti on was heating up. Finally figured out the problem and everything works as advertised. Pay attention if you own a Kenmore product.
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Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Al from THORNTOWN, IN
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My ov en is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
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Element Burn out
25 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesse from Forest, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Self easy

PS Great service Super FAST.
Thanks Jesse
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One section of heating element failed to heat.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from VESTAL, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed on-line instructions to remove the defective heating element. Some connection tabs on the replacement unit were different than the original. One tab was too wide to accept the stove's slip-on wire connector without fling down the tab width on the heating element. Thanks to some on-line instructions, wire connections to element 1a and 2a had to be reversed. If not for those instructions I would probably have ended up sending the unit back to the supplier, as an incorrect replacement !
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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Bake element stopped working
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. SHUT OFF POWER TO YOUR RANGE! (I flipped the circuit breaker at the box to do this. To be totally safe, you can shut off the power to the whole house.) 2. Remove the oven racks. 3. Undo the two screws (save for step 8) holding the bake element in place. (This took some doing for me, as the screws did not want to come out easily. May be use some penetrating oil and be careful not to strip the screws.) 4. Gently pull the bake element toward you, exposing the contacts and wires. 5. Remove the wires from the old element's contacts. (Remember which contact 6. Attach the wires to the new element's contacts. 7. CAREFULLY push the wires back into the wall of the oven. (Pay attention to the insulation. Make sure that some insulation is near the wall.) 8. Fasten element to wall of oven with screws you saved from step 2.
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glide bearings came apart due to wife overloading drawer
10 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from evansville, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed 1 screw from each glide, pulled parts out, replaced parts and screws, slid drawer glides into bearing glides. job done, very easy and fixed problem.
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Broken burner switch. Would not shut off.
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from PONCE INLET, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass p anel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.
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Temperature in the oven was not consistent
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cheryl from PRAIRIEVILLE, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature
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broken lens over oven light
11 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leslie from Warsaw, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
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Error Code F1
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jon from Little Silver, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did s ome reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first
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All Instructions for the PLES389DCC
16 - 30 of 123