MAT23PCAAL Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.

You can read elsewhere about how to open an old Maytag top-load washer. Two screws in the front holding the front on, and two screws underneath the 'ceiling'. That exposes the injector hose assembly.

Disassembly of old parts is a breeze. A challenge is that the new included plastic mount for the injector doesn't match the original. What I call is the mount, partselect.com calls an "injector sleeve bracket". In hindsight, I could have/should have just used the old mount again. My solution was to file a groove on the underside of the new mount, and use that as a guide for a wire tie that wraps around the mount and the L-bracket coming off of the side of the washer. I suspect that vibration and age will do in the wire tie in a couple of years. I plan to replace it with a hose clamp before that happens.

My understanding is that they really don't make washers like this anymore - the A512 - so I'm very happy to fork over a few dollars in order to keep this one running. We're in our 25th year of operating this one. Every additional year is a bonus!

Unplugged power cord then disconnected the water supply and drain hose. Removed 2 screws and took the front panel off. Laid washer on it's side and posistioned the transmission with the cover facing upward. Removed the hex head screws then used a razor knife and a putty knife to remove the silicone sealant. Found that the agitator shaft spring had broken and fallen into the housing jamming the gears that's used in agitation. Removed the oil and all broken pieces of the spring. Installed new shaft spring, replaced the oil then applied sealant to the cover and screwed the cover back down. Let the washer stay in the same posistion for about 18 hours to let sealant dry completely. Then I sat the washer back on it's feet and removed 2 screws that holds the top lid in place. This allowed me access to the tub cover where the injector t is located. Installed the injector t along with the injector tube seal. Connected the hose and hose clamp. Then I put the lid back down and secured with the screws. Connected the water supply and drain hose then the power and selected a wash time and observed the operation. Everything worked ok so I put the front cover back on. Note: I had used the injector t from this washer to fix another washer that an appliance dealer had given me to use for parts to repair the one just described above. That was the only thing that was wrong with it. It was used for about a year and a half and it developed a problem in the spin cycle. Appears to be a brake problem. I intend to repair it as well.

I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

I followed the supplied directions to remove covers, unbolt tub springs, and expose the area needed to replace the damper pads. I cleaned the area with acetone and applied a rubber adhesive (not supplied). I used tire patch compound because that is what I had on-hand. I positioned the pads and after they had dried 1/2 hour, lubricated them with the supplied grease. I reassembled the washer and it is now smooth and well behaved.

My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.

I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.

I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.

I took the front panel off the machine and then removed the two screws that held the top on. Cut the hose clamps off the hoses and replace the injector sleeve, valve, housing, and hose to tub. I am not sure what the function of this is, other than to inject air into the water before it goes into the tub. Very easy to do if you know how to open up the washing machine.

The washer leaked only when i used warm or hot water. I found that the rubber injector valve would get to soft when using hot water,allowing the water to leak through and bubble out and onto the floor. I went ahead and replaced the injector nozzle, injector sleeve and the rubber injector valve. I ordered the parts monday morning and they arrived the next day. Excellent service.

Went on the PartSelect website, input the problem, and got the Water Inlet Valve as the diagnosis. When the part arrived, I viewed the short video on replacing the Water Inlet Valve and just followed the instructions. It could not have been easier. After turning off both the hot and cold water and pulling the plug from the wall socket, I removed the screw holding the bracket and valve to the machine; removed the 2 screws holding the valve to the bracket; removed the wire harness ends from each solenoid on the valve; replaced the valve with the new one and reattached the wire harness, followed by reattaching the bracket to the valve, and assembling to the machine.

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!

By doing the work yourself, not only gives you the good feeling you did it yourself and works just like it was when it was new and to know there's part's you can still get from part places like these! Like I say to my wife ( if they meaning a repair shop can do so can't I ). Course changing a motor in a car that's a different story, I'll let someone else to do that. To do the repair I took off the front cover of the washer exposing the tub, motor and other things. But the very first thing I did is unplug the power ( I hate the bad storys that if I only turned off the power ? ) then I took off the cover over the motor and changed the switch. And all in reverse. And plug power back in. Started up just fine.

Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).