HTDX100PD1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

My husband broke the door handle, but of course, i had to be the one to order the part & fix it. I ordered the part on the weekend and much to my suprise it was on my doorstep on Tuesday when I got home from work. Then I saw the part was shipped from nearby Louisville. I was overly happy with partselect!!!!! All I did was open the packaging and clip the dryer handle into the 4 holes. Easy as pie!!!!

I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.

I watched how to do the repair on YouTube prior to ordering the parts. The video seemed simple enough so I ordered the parts and followed along with the YouTube video. My new push to start switch did not work properly, still had to rest a heavy object against it to get the dryer going and my timer knob worked for a full cycle and a half before it stopped working. It became loose and will not set on any specific time setting. Perhaps I diagnosed my problem incorrectly, not sure just know I am out of $96.06 and am grateful that I have a clothes line strung up outside to dry my clothes for now!

remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.

I first removed the the timer knob and the other ones from the front of the control panel. Then I removed the three screws that held the rear access to the control panel. Disconnected all wires to the timer keeping written info to which wires went to which terminal. The replacement timer was exactly like the original in the placement and designation of the terminals. I then twisted the bad timer out of the plastic holders, placed the new one and twisted it in place, and replaced the wires. I then replaced the screws in the rear of the panel and replaced the knobs. It did not take much longer than writing this. Very easy and I am completely satisfied.

Popped off old knobs, popped in new. Sorry, nothin' to it or I would'a yelled HELP!

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.

1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.
2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.
3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.
4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.
5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.
6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.
7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.

Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.
8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.

On my 80th Birthday my son and I replaced the timer. We removed the screws from the back panel. Disconnected the dryer from the electrical outlet. Removed the knob from the front panel. Pulled out the timer and took a picture of the wires connected to the timer. Then we transferred each wire one at a time from the old timer to the new timer. Then we replaced the timer and reconnected the knob on the front. Closed the front panel. Replaced the back. Then for the moment of truth: we set the timer for a few minutes and pushed start. A few minutes later the buzzer went off and the dryer stopped. And we both screamed and praised the Lord. We had never done anything like this before

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

I just removed old parts And put the new part on it was very easy to do.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat