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First, no heat; then, no run
Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)
I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.
Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.
It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.
I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good. PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp. In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.
I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!
Dryer began shutting off before timer had come to the "off" position.
I first removed the the timer knob and the other ones from the front of the control panel. Then I removed the three screws that held the rear access to the control panel. Disconnected all wires to the timer keeping written info to which wires went to which terminal. The replacement timer was exactly like the original in the placement and designation of the terminals. I then twisted the bad timer out of the plastic holders, placed the new one and twisted it in place, and replaced the wires. I then replaced the screws in the rear of the panel and replaced the knobs. It did not take much longer than writing this. Very easy and I am completely satisfied.
Plastic housing for the door latch mounted in the chassis of the dryer was damaged so the section of the latch in the door wouldn't align.
This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!
Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell
Broke switch and later on the black piece on motor timer.
Unplug dryer, remove screws and panel. Take picture of dryer motor so you will put wires back the same way . Remove screws using Allen wrench, then unplug wires put the new motor on secure, then put wires back on. View the photo make sure the wires are the same. Then plug your dryer back up. And Happy drying..
Dryer start switch would only work if something rested against it and then dryer stopped in the middle of cycle.
I watched how to do the repair on YouTube prior to ordering the parts. The video seemed simple enough so I ordered the parts and followed along with the YouTube video. My new push to start switch did not work properly, still had to rest a heavy object against it to get the dryer going and my timer knob worked for a full cycle and a half before it stopped working. It became loose and will not set on any specific time setting. Perhaps I diagnosed my problem incorrectly, not sure just know I am out of $96.06 and am grateful that I have a clothes line strung up outside to dry my clothes for now!
Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new
On my 80th Birthday my son and I replaced the timer. We removed the screws from the back panel. Disconnected the dryer from the electrical outlet. Removed the knob from the front panel. Pulled out the timer and took a picture of the wires connected to the timer. Then we transferred each wire one at a time from the old timer to the new timer. Then we replaced the timer and reconnected the knob on the front. Closed the front panel. Replaced the back. Then for the moment of truth: we set the timer for a few minutes and pushed start. A few minutes later the buzzer went off and the dryer stopped. And we both screamed and praised the Lord. We had never done anything like this before
remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.
