1746 - Instructions

(Followed the ORIGINAL manufacturer's instructions for assembly we retained when purchasing the appliance.) Replacing the broken handle end involved removal of the LEFT handle end as well as the broken RIGHT end, the center rod handle, and unscrewing the outer door face from the inner door face. Had to find specialty screwdriver for non-standard screw heads. Sigh. It was impossible to replace the door handle, as it requires removing the entire door - It is too heavy for one person to hold in place while the 2nd person tried to blindly replace screws thru a 1/2 inch slit in the outer and inner door pieces. Hiring a handyman is impossible leading up to the holidays, so we decided to just buy a new stove. Something that should be really simple to replace for less than $50 is now a major budget outlay due to a crappy design.

Opened oven door removed screw and broken end cap. Replaced with new end cap and put handle back on

Just described it.

Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to reduce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.

Unscrew the metal rim and remove the glass window. Remove the old bulb by twesting the bulb towards you. Place the new bulb's pins into the slots and twest away from you. Place the metal rims back in place and screw them down.

Luckily I retained the original manual and was able to order the drip pans through your company from the original manufacturer. Be sure range is turned off, lift the burner locking element, then lift the burner a bit. Remove the burner by pulling it, disconnecting it through the opening in the drip pan. Lift out the old drip pan and replace it with the new one. Then reconnect the burner through the opening in the drip pan. Press the burner locking element in place and the job is done

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

Step #1: Remove 2 screws at the inside top of the oven door that holds the inner/outer oven door together. Step #2: Remove the screws from the inner door that hold the plastic handle end caps to the door. Tip: Use a file to dress up the tips of the metal handle bar so that it fits easily into the new plastic handle end caps. Step #3: Install the first new plastic handle end cap. Step #4: Slide the metal handle bar into the plastic handle end cap that was just installed on the outer oven door. Step #5: Place the other plastic handle end cap on the metal handle bar. Step #6: Install the second plastic handle end cap on the outer oven door. Step #7: Reassemble the oven door by installing the screws that were removed in step #1.

I returned the belt because it was the wrong part. Ordered the correct belt from another source. After that the replacement went well and I crossed off Parts Select from my list.

Unscrewed three screws from each oven door. Unbolted the end pieces and replaced with new ones. Reinstalled oven door screws. Nothing to it.

This the second time in three years the end caps broke. The first time the replacement end caps slid right on but, this time it was an extreemly tight fit. I had to sprsy white greese on the handle bar and inside the end cap and, even then I thought the end caps would break it was so hard to get on.

Removed door from unit, removed two screws on the insideof the door and open door in two, (inside and outside), removed two screws from each door handle end, replaced with new ones and Bingo !!!

I took the old cap off, and replaced it with the new one. I am glad I had the sense to buy this online, If I had gotten a repairman to fix this, it probably would have costs $100.00 instead of the $17.00 it cost me to fix it myself. Thanks.

Dislodged screws to oven door to get to handle assembly. Fairly easy, however, new door handle end caps do not come with screws and the old screws were not a good fit. Almost stripped the old screw trying to get it in place. Strongly suggest that Part Select send replacement screws with handle to facilitate repair. Door handle is back up but is now loose until I can find/secure appropriate replacement screws and repeat the process all over again.

It took longer to go and buy the star tool then the repair. If you have the tools close it is a ten minute repair....