Gibson Washer Parts
Popular Gibson Washer Parts
- Door latch failure
- Door won’t close
- Leaking
- See more...
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Spinning Issues
- See more...
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Shaking and Moving
- See more...
- Leaking
- Lid or door won’t close
- Locking Issues
- See more...
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections. Read more...
- Leaking
- Not draining
- Will not drain
- See more...
- Leaking
- Not draining
- Will not drain
- See more...
- Burning smell
- Spins slowly
- Will not agitate
- See more...
- Will not drain
- See more...
Remove water connections
Pull out washer to have sufficient room to access the back and the top.
Removed the top panel (4 screws at top- back)
Removed the back panel (a lot of screws)
Removed small metal retainer strip on top edge over broken spring
Removed broken spring, hung top of new one.
Pulled up tub to as I stretched out the spring to mount spring to tub
From the back, unplug and remove 2 crews holding the electronic motor control unit from lower left
For both shocks:
This was the most "difficult" part - locate the 2 plastic retainer pins holding the shock, locate the tooth (or tab) holding the pin in place and push the tab in (I had to use some leverage - its stiff plastic covered in grease - a spare screwdriver handle helps to push the tab down).
After pins are removed, shock just pulls out (weight of the tub handled by the suspension springs).
Replace with new shocks (1 pack has a pair), replace pins.
Reinstall motor control unit.
Reassemble frame. reattach water supply lines.
I had to plug in the washer, activate a cycle, then unplug/plug in the washer again.
It helps to have a screwdriver attachment for a variable speed drill to handle all of the screws.
All told - about 45 minutes, most of this spent on removing the pins. Read more...
- Marks left on clothes
- Noisy
- See more...
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
- Leaking
- See more...
Some problims removing old rear drum bearing assembly. Also removing old drum guide bottom Adhesive.
I used a new wire brush, but if I had a brush that fit a drill this would have been better to remove the adhesive.
I then applied the Glue, drum seal and small clamps to hold in place so the glue could dry overnight the next day 30 mins and the dryer was back togeather. Read more...
Gibson Washer Appliance Types
- Gibson Air Conditioner Parts
- Gibson Cooktop Parts
- Gibson Dehumidifier Parts
- Gibson Dishwasher Parts
- Gibson Dryer Parts
- Gibson Freezer Parts
- Gibson Microwave Parts
- Gibson Oven Parts
- Gibson Parts
- Gibson Range Parts
- Gibson Refrigerator Parts
- Gibson Trash Compactor Parts
- Gibson Vent Hood Parts
- Gibson Washer Dryer Combo Parts
Related Gibson Washer Parts
- Gibson Washer Hardware
- Gibson Washer Springs and Shock Absorbers
- Gibson Washer Switches
- Gibson Washer Hoses and Tubes
- Gibson Washer Seals and Gaskets
- Gibson Washer Knobs
- Gibson Washer Timers
Popular Gibson Washer Models
Below are the most popular Gibson Washer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- GTF1040AS0 Residential
- GWT445RFS2 Residential
- GWT445RGS1 Residential
- GWT445RGS0 Residential
- GTF1040CS0 Residential
- GWT645RHS0 Residential, Front Load
- GWT445RFS1 Residential
- GTR1040AS0 Residential
- GTR1040CS0 Residential
- GWT445RFS0 Residential
- GTF1040CS1 Residential
- GWT445RGS2 Residential
- GWX933AS1 Residential
- GWTR645RHS0 Residential
- GWS645RFS2
- GTF1040FS1 Residential
- GWS1149AS1 Residential
- GWS645RHS0 Residential
- GWS1339CS1 Residential
- GWX433RHS0 Residential