Gibson Washer Parts
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Popular Gibson Washer Parts
Your Price
$24.93
In Stock
Drive V-Belt
PartSelect Number PS1146950
Manufacturer Part Number 134511600
This rubber V-style drive belt slips on the motor pulley to bring the basket to the required speed. If you notice a burning rubber smell or grinding noises coming from your washer, your washer does not start, drain, spin properly (will not spin/spins slowly/will not agitate properly), or if your washer shakes or moves during the cycle; check your drive belt for signs of wear and tear. Replace the drive belt if you notice that the belt looks damaged. This OEM part is approximately 35 inches in length, and sold individually.
Fixes these symptoms
- Burning smell
- Noisy
- Spins slowly
- See more...
Installation Instructions
rodney from fairfield bay, AR
replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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Your Price
$13.76
In Stock
Door Strike
PartSelect Number PS890617
Manufacturer Part Number 131763310
The door strike on your washing machine allows your washer door to lock properly, and operate efficiently. If you notice that your washer door will not open or close, leaks or the washer will not start or spin, you may need to replace the door strike. This part is for front load washers and is white in color. The part is made of plastic and is roughly 2 inches in length. To complete this repair, you will only need a Phillips screwdriver. Most of our customers found this repair to be easy and took less than 15 minutes to complete it. This part is sold individually, not as a part of a kit, and is a genuine part approved by the original manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Door latch failure
- Door won’t close
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Joy from Columbia, MO
Broken Door Catch
This was one of the simpliest repairs I have ever done taking less than 5 minutes to complete. On the inner door I removed the two screws that hold the plastic catch in place. I then removed the broken catch and put the new catch in place. Finally I replaced the two screws that hold the catch in place and it was done.
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Your Price
$146.86
In Stock
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
PartSelect Number PS7783938
Manufacturer Part Number 137221600
This is a 120 volt, 60 hertz drain pump that is manufactured to remove water from the tub of your washer once your clothes are washed. This part is the pump and motor assembly, which includes a red flapper to prevent drain backflow. You will need to remove the front panel of your washer to access the drain pump. The tools you will need for the repair are a Phillips screw driver, a putty knife, a pair of slip joint pliers, and a 5/16 nut driver. Be sure to disconnect the water supply from your washer before doing the repair. The metal edges on the appliance are sharp, so use work gloves to safely complete the repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Not draining
- Will not drain
- See more...
Installation Instructions
kenneth from willard, OH
would't spin all water out or rinse out clothes
uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.
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Your Price
$46.67
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect Number PS815509
Manufacturer Part Number 134190200
The water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter and controls the flow of water into a washing machine. Hot, cold, and warm water can easily enter the washer this way. If the water inlet valve is in any way damaged or defective, it may be slow to fill or even leak. Before beginning this replacement, make sure to unplug the washer from the power range or shut off the house circuit breaker. Remember to wear gloves for safety. Refer to the installation instructions and the diagram provided by the manufacturer for best results and accuracy.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- No hot or cold water
- See more...
Installation Instructions
alvaro from east hampton, NY
Washer Continued To Fill To Point Of Overflow
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.
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Your Price
$11.45
In Stock
Upper Spin Bearing Washer
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS473382
Manufacturer Part Number 5308002401
The upper spin bearing for a washer can solve many issues such as loud and odd noises, or leaking water. Replacing the spin bearing could solve these issues. The tools needed for this replacement are screwdrivers, a socket set, and a putty knife. To repair, first lift the top of the washer and remove the screws at the bottom of the front panel to pull away. Next, pull off the dispenser cover, cup, and agitator. Detach switch tube from the tub cover and remove tub cover, then use the 1/2 inch socket to remove the trunnion bolts and pull out inner tub. For the rest of the installation instructions, refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer. Remember to unplug the appliance from the power source as a safety precaution.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Patrick from Humble, TX
Noisy spin cycle
1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new. Read more...
Your Price
$120.36
In Stock
Front Load Washer Door Lock and Switch Assembly
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS12364048
Manufacturer Part Number 131763256
This door lock and switch assembly is manufactured to lock the door on your front load washer to prevent it from opening while it is running. You may need to replace the door lock and switch if the door does not open or lock. Your washer will not start if the door does not lock. This part is also known as a washing machine door lock assembly. As per the manufacturer, some models require a new wire harness and a door strike for this door lock assembly to work on the appliance. The original style lock would require the door lock kit.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Lid or door won’t close
- Spins slowly
- See more...
Installation Instructions
DOUG from KING FERRY, NY
Door on washer wouldn't lock or start
1. Unplug unit.2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections. Read more...
Your Price
$36.63
In Stock
Shock Absorber Kit
PartSelect Number PS3508101
Manufacturer Part Number 5304485917
This shock absorber kit is an authentic OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The kit includes two dual-stage shock absorbers, one spare shock mounting pin, and four locking nuts. These shock absorbers keep your front-load washer from shaking vigorously by absorbing and reducing vibrations from the wash and spin cycles of your appliance. This kit comes with two shock absorbers because it is recommended to replace both at the same time, as they wear at the same rate. To access your washer shock absorbers, simply remove the lower access panel after disconnecting the power to the appliance.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Noisy
- Shaking and Moving
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Douglas from Medical Lake, WA
Both vibration shock absorbers broken
removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.
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Your Price
$69.01
In Stock
Tub Seal Assembly
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS459481
Manufacturer Part Number 5303279394
If you have a leaky washer, then your tub seal may be the culprit. The tub seal assembly may also be known as the washer tub seal, and is a part for your washer. The function of this piece is to make sure water does not lead from between the outer tub and the spin basket from around your basket drive shaft within your washer. To replace your old part with this one you will need a flathead screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16 socket, spanner wrench, and a hammer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Rick from Walkerton, IN
The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy. Read more...
Your Price
$18.74
In Stock
Drain Hose
PartSelect Number PS417877
Manufacturer Part Number 131461200
This drain hose is designed for use in your washer. The function of this part is to carry water from the drain pump to the house drain. If your washer is leaking or will not drain, you may need to replace the drain hose. This part is black in color and is made of plastic. This drain hose comes with a 90-degree elbow attachment. Before you begin this repair, be sure to disconnect the power supply, as well as the water supply to the washer. This part is sold individually. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- Will not drain
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Carl from Wilmington, DE
Drain hose was leaking due to small hole in hose
This is the third time I have ordered parts from this company .I can't say enough good things about them from their fast shipping( always arrives sooner than they state)To the quality of the parts and the shipping packages.A first class operation from start to finnish.First step was to disconect power supply.Second was to remove washer drain hose from house drain.Third remove two (2) phillips head screws from front cover of washer ,located at bottom right and left side of front panel near floor.Lift front panel up to unhook metal retainers on panel that connect it to washer side panels.Use pliers to remove spring clamp from hose. Remove hose from washer pump. Remove clamp from hose,remove plastic retainer holding hose to washer bottom.Feed hose out the back of the washer through washer drain hose hole in the back pannel of the washer.Remove plastic retainer.Insert the new hose through the hole in the back pannel install the hose clamp and install the hose back on the pump.Relocate clamp on hose, take front panel,lift into place,push down to lock retaining taps into side cover slots replace the two phillips head screws.
Read more...
Your Price
$71.46
In Stock
Spin Bearing
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS446536
Manufacturer Part Number 3204405
The spin bearing, used for your washer, is located at the bottom of the outer tub near the transmission. The spin bearing carries the transmission shaft in the drive system, therefore ensuring the shaft is spun properly during its spin cycle. If your spin cycle makes loud or odd noises, replacing the bearing could be a solution to your problem. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions. As a safety precaution make sure to unplug appliance from the power source.
Fixes these symptoms
- Leaking
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Patrick from Humble, TX
Noisy spin cycle
1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lifted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new. Read more...
Gibson Washer Appliance Types
- Gibson Air Conditioner Parts
- Gibson Cooktop Parts
- Gibson Dehumidifier Parts
- Gibson Dishwasher Parts
- Gibson Dryer Parts
- Gibson Freezer Parts
- Gibson Microwave Parts
- Gibson Oven Parts
- Gibson Parts
- Gibson Range Parts
- Gibson Refrigerator Parts
- Gibson Trash Compactor Parts
- Gibson Vent Hood Parts
- Gibson Washer Dryer Combo Parts
Related Gibson Washer Parts
- Gibson Washer Hardware
- Gibson Washer Hoses and Tubes
- Gibson Washer Knobs
- Gibson Washer Seals and Gaskets
- Gibson Washer Springs and Shock Absorbers
- Gibson Washer Switches
- Gibson Washer Timers
Popular Gibson Washer Models
Below are the most popular Gibson Washer models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- GTF1040AS0 Residential
- GWT445RGS1 Residential
- GWT445RFS2 Residential
- GTF1040CS0 Residential
- GWT445RGS0 Residential
- GWT645RHS0 Residential, Front Load
- GWT445RFS1 Residential
- GTR1040AS0 Residential
- GTR1040CS0 Residential
- GTF1040CS1 Residential
- GWT445RFS0 Residential
- GWT445RGS2 Residential
- GTF1040FS1 Residential
- GWTR645RHS0 Residential
- GWS645RHS0 Residential
- GWX933AS1 Residential
- GWS1149AS1 Residential
- GWS1339CS1 Residential
- GWS645RFS2
- GWS645RBS3 Residential
