WM0001HTMA LG Washer - Instructions

Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

Do not pay a service company to come to your house to make this fix!!! If you have common sense, simple tools, a phone camera and some mini zip ties you can do this!

After watching a couple YouTube videos on installing a new motor I had the confidence to start the job. My biggest worry was I'd forget where a screw/part went so I took a lot of pictures as I disassembled. I also laid all the parts out on a table reflective of where they belonged on the machine. I learned washers aren't rocket science - YOU CAN DO THIS. The most difficult part of the fix was my washer was a different model so much of the caging was completely different than YouTube disassembly, but once I got into the machine it was fairly identical. Easily popped out the old, broken motor and inserted the new LG certified part. Reassembled in 1/2 the time of disassembly and my machine works like new:) Hoping to get another 10+ years out of this washer.

Thanks PartsSelect for the high quality certified LG part. Very nice quality and weight.

Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.

The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.

Overall very easy to do.

I followed the video. Everything worked exactly as described. i ran a quick cycle and everything seemed to be fine. Started a wash and the machine was going fine but stopped, and wouldn't drain. I thought that maybe it might be the Rotor Position Sensor assembly, which I had already purchased just in case.But first i drained the machine and checked out the pump filter. Plugged solid. I'm guessing when the pump went there must have been a lot of lint and debris in the machine. something you might want to check out, after that repair. Thanks. you guys saved me a couple of hundred dollars

Totally dis-assembled this washer to check the bearings and drum plus fix the pump problem. We wash dog blankets occasionally and found the little drain hose from the front door gasket was clogged with hair. It makes a 90 degree turn and it gets caught there. THAT fixed the smell issue. As far as the pump replacement goes its quite easy. Videos online are your friend.

Follow the LG washer video.

Not too bad, had a neighbor help with the project as washer/dryer were stacked. removed dryer from on top out of way. Drained washer, tilted on side to get access from down below. Second person help here. unscrewed drain pump from front, Used pliers to unclamp hoses, disconnect wires to motor (already pulled power from wall) pushed plastic clip holding in unit and pulled out. New unit was factory new, not a knockoff. We took extra time to clean out hoses, especially from the main washer unit, it was a simple unscrew clamp and pull hose down. We sprayed out gunk from hoses and parts going back in. Once new unit was ready, installed back and reconnected hose and power. The clamps were somewhat of a pain with the overall size and angles to get them seated and on correctly. Much easier to take off, but take the time to reinstall correctly. Don’t need water leaking. Motor much quieter now, wife is happy.

you tube it , not to hard to install

ridiculously easy. removed the door gasket ring clamp. separated the gasket from the face. unscrewed the lock, removed the wire(gently). replaced the wire on the new lock. replaced the lock. replaced door gasket and ring clamp. washed clothes. Note- I had called a repair service and was given a $360 estimate in addition to the $130 dollar service charge. All total- $50 dollar part(with shipping), less than 45 min total time and I'm no mechanic!

Disconnected power, removed top cover, removed control panel, removed door assembly then was able to access and replace the bellow and pump.

This was a very easy repair. Just followed the steps in the videos on the website (I replaced both the hot and cold inlet valves, so two different videos, but the process for each is similar) and it couldn't have been simpler.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

I went by the video

The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!

It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.

Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.