SF337PEXW0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter was not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.

If your stove work's but your oven won't get hot it is your ignigter the ignighter in proper working condition sends a signal to the gas valve saying let the gas flow its ok. When the ignighter quits working it won't let the gas flow and your oven will not get hot. It is an easy fix. Just pull out all of interior parts the racks and the bottom heat shield the ignighter the white stone looking part that is screwed to the burner with two wires and it really don't matter what way the wires go back one of the wires connects in the back so you will have to pull the oven out. Now you have to clean under it and your done.

Removed oven door and burner guard. Removed screws holding ignitor bracket and small panel beneath oven door. Disconnected ignitor wires behind panel and pulled out ignitor. Removed old ignitor from bracket and inserted new unit. Fed wires back down thru tubing and screwed in bracket. Connected wires and replaced panel. (Note: old ignitor glowed but would not pass enough current to operate gas valve)

Removed racks and floor in oven, exposing ignitor assembly. Disconnected 2 wires at electrical connector plug. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in place, removed bad ignitor, installed new ignitor in reverse order. Tested for ignition, all worked fine.

removed broiler pan
removed oven bottom plate
removed burner cover
unplug and remove igniter
reinstall igniter
clean and reassemble

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Had to remove the 4 range knobs, and the oven knob and then the facie. Two screws under the end caps and two on each side from the back on each end. Design defect: one of these screws which attaches through the frame to the facie also attaches the support which holds up the range top. Take that one off last. Remove the two wires that attach to the oven light switch. After detaching the power supply to the defective ignition unit, it just pulls right off. Push the new switch on over the knob shaft and reassemble.

First I Pulled the oven away from the wall and turned off the gas and unplugged the oven. I then removed the bottom drawer and the oven door to get easy access to the ignitor location. I then removed the oven racks and the 2 shields which cover the ignitor with a screw driver. I then removed & unplugged the ignitor and 2 screws holding the ignitor in place. This all took about 15 minutes. I then reversed the process and installed and assembled the oven. It only took about 25 min in total time and low and behold the oven worked again. Amazing the technology stuff. My wife things I am a genius...again. Not!!!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Just set in the new grate and start cooking

Removed the burner plates. Lifted up the range top. Removed the knobs. Unbolted the 2 rounded nuts at top of face plate. Removed the 4 screws that hold the face plate in place from behind. Un plugged the old switch and plugged in the new one and bam! The burner worked. Thanks, Super fast shipping! The part was here in less than 36 hours. John, N.J.

I used the experience of another user posted on your web site. I removed all the gas control knobs and then I followed his instructions about removing the four phillps head screws that held the front plate in place. Once I had it loose and flipped the plate out, it was simple to disconnect the old ignitor switch and install the new one. Simply reversing the process put the range back in proper order. Took a little over 15 minutes to accomplish.

1. ordered two new switches
2. installed switches
3. all ignitors work

Really appreciated the pictures of the parts--made selection very easy.

I read some of question & answer to the problem I was having with the oven. When I saw do-it-yourself that all I need to know. Repair man quote me for 100.00 dollar he will do it plus part. So I save 100.00 dollar and done it myself. Thank to partselect for fast and quick delivery service. It was only 2 screws holding the element and the connector was a just plug it into the other plug very easy to do. I will always come back partselect for answer and help and buy the part from them. YOU ROCK PARTSELECT

Removed bottom pan from oven, removed gas flame deflector to expose ignitor and burner. Saw that ignitor was not working. Removed two mounting screws, pulled ignitor and wire until wire nuts were exposed and disconnected ignitor. Replaced with new ignitor, bracket and wire nuts. Remounted the new ignitor, and tested burner. Worked ok. Reinstalled deflector and pan, back in business.